I have all LE trade in 1.0 FS M&P 40's. I installed the poly trigger in them along with the APEX supplied sear spring. It makes the APEX trigger pull crisper. To use their sear spring you must use a feeler gauge to open the loop to about .016" (that's what worked for me). The factory opening was .004"-.006".Should be no issues at all, but may depend on whether you have a 1.0 or 2.0. If anything you'll notice a reduction in overall travel. If your compact still retains the trigger loop, you'll be able to adjust where the sear breaks in the trigger pull. The over-travel stop is more positive as well.
Myself, I actually prefer the polymer apex trigger vs. aluminum and have them installed on all my M&Ps except for Shields.
I also believe the kit for the 2.0 flat faced Apex trigger includes a different disconnect which has the sear breaking towards the front of the pull. You may want to call Apex to make sure there's no issues installing the trigger w/o the disconnect.
I FINALLY got around to calling Apex. A polymer or aluminum stand-alone kit is ONLY available for the M&P 1.0 model. To replace the trigger on a 2.0 model I would have to buy & install the full $160+ kit. So...decision time.
Just curious as to why you would want to replace the 2.0 trigger. S&W improved it so much over the 1.0. Unless you don't like the hinged trigger itself, I can't see replacing it. I like the 2.0 trigger on my 2.0 40.
These are just my honest opinions.![]()
Just curious as to why you would want to replace the 2.0 trigger. S&W improved it so much over the 1.0. Unless you don't like the hinged trigger itself, I can't see replacing it. I like the 2.0 trigger on my 2.0 40.
These are just my honest opinions.![]()
Go for the full kit, you will love it. I had previously put an Overwatch flat faced trigger in my Gen4 Glock 19 that reduced the pre travel and over travel. The flat faced trigger was just so much better. I hate the feel of stock Glock triggers. I read and watched all I could find on the M&P Apex flatty trigger full kit. I put one in my new 2.0 compact and love it. I also put the duty carry kit in my 1.0 Shield with the same result. Both guns much improved but the trigger in the M&P 2.0 now has the best trigger I have ever experienced in a striker fired gun.
That's a very wise choice, letting an armorer do the install.Tom, thanks very much for sharing your helpful comments! I acquired a like new 9mm Shield 1.0 today and note your good experience putting the duty carry kit in your 1.0 Shield. I'll be looking for a good local gunsmith to handle this upgrade. Guess I need to budget $160+ for the kit and $75 or so for installation. This should give a flat well-functioning trigger? Right? Regards, Ed
That's a very wise choice, letting an armorer do the install.
You do know that if you send it back to S&W for any kind of warranty work, you will have to remove the installed kit. Or, S&W will do it for you and send it back the way that the factory made it. Just something to think about.![]()
Should be no issues at all, but may depend on whether you have a 1.0 or 2.0. If anything you'll notice a reduction in overall travel. If your compact still retains the trigger loop, you'll be able to adjust where the sear breaks in the trigger pull. The over-travel stop is more positive as well.
Myself, I actually prefer the polymer apex trigger vs. aluminum and have them installed on all my M&Ps except for Shields.
I also believe the kit for the 2.0 flat faced Apex trigger includes a different disconnect which has the sear breaking towards the front of the pull. You may want to call Apex to make sure there's no issues installing the trigger w/o the disconnect.