Reloading Die Maintenance

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Dragonwing

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I've reloaded handgun ammo (9mm, 40 S&W, 45 acp and 44 mag) for some time now without any problems. All my dies are RCBS carbide, 3 die sets and installed in their separate die plates for my RCBS Pro 2000. I just broke my first decapping pin while processing some mixed 44 mag cases. After removing the decapping pin I noticed some residue on the inside of die. That left me wondering if I should be cleaning my dies periodically and how much or how little is really needed. I did watch a video where the guy put his new dies in a sonic cleaner before even using them. Just curious what you all do, and or if there are any special products or procedures you use? I do have a sonic cleaner and case dryer I can use but also wondered if spraying some Gun Scrubber on the inside of each die would work ok. I can always depend on all of your years of experience. Thanks.
 
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Interesting you bring this up. Had the same exact thing happen to me on a Lee 9mm recapping die after reloading about a thousand rounds. After doing some research and more reading, I started cleaning all of my die sets when I purchase them before first use, then take them apart and clean them after every couple hundred rounds. Never was taught this was necessary by other reloaders for some reason. I have used break free CLP and chlorine-free brake cleaner spray with good results and no further breakage. I just count the cost of the new die as tuition. Interested to hear what others have to say...
 
I clean my dies occasionally by disassembling them and wiping out the inside and wiping down the decapping and seating stems with patches and good old Hoppes No. 9. Then I wipe dry. As others have said, the use of cast and lubricated bullets requires cleaning more often. But even rifle dies that are used with nothing but jacketed bullets will collect some grit and carbon on the decapping stem. An easy enough task to clean them.
 
I have heard cleaning dies with kerosine or diesel fuel is good enough.
Although I am sure CLP or good ole Hoppes #9 won’t hurt loading dies ... in the least.
 
I clean my carbide dies after every season. Some gun cleaning solvent or rubbing alcohol does the trick for me. I was surprised when I cleaned them for the first time. How much smoother everything ran on my progressive press.
 
I clean each die i.e., resizing, decapping/expander, and seating after each reloading session. I disassemble them and remove any residue from the expander for example. I use a Q-Tip to clean the interior surfaces. Very little time expended. Been doing it this way since 1974.

Only caveat, don't leave any cleaner or oil behind that might contaminate the primer or powder.

HTH.

JPJ
 
I found out it was worth doing after loading about 500 9mm lead rounds and the bullets started getting set slightly deeper.
 
I believe new die instructions call for cleaning before use, which I do. After that, it’s about every year for pistol (unless loading lead bullets, when it’s as needed), and more often for rifle, depending on how much they’re used. I would worry more about wear and scratches in steel dies than wear on carbide. Spray with brake cleaner, wipe with cotton swabs & a rag, good to go.
 
It doesn't hurt a thing to clean your dies every now and then .
Carbide dies can get a speck-o-grit embedded in the sizer and scratch the devil out of cases .
Seating lead , coated and plated bullets can cause a buildup of grunge that affects seating depth and crimping .
If you are going to clean the sizer and seat/crimp you might as well clean the expander / decapping die while you are cleaning .
Spray with any gun cleaner( Ed's Red Cleaner or whatever you have ) , and wipe out with a rag ...
Remove the bullet seating stem and clean the seating plug and crimping area .
Gary
 
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just plain joe said:
I clean each die i.e., resizing, decapping/expander, and seating after each reloading session. I disassemble them and remove any residue from the expander for example. I use a Q-Tip to clean the interior surfaces. Very little time expended. Been doing it this way since 1974.

Only caveat, don't leave any cleaner or oil behind that might contaminate the primer or powder.
Click to expand...

ME TOO also since about 1974.... Use Q-tip to 'dry' them as well.

J.
 
Dragonwing said:
I've reloaded handgun ammo (9mm, 40 S&W, 45 acp and 44 mag) for some time now without any problems. All my dies are RCBS carbide, 3 die sets and installed in their separate die plates for my RCBS Pro 2000. I just broke my first decapping pin while processing some mixed 44 mag cases. After removing the decapping pin I noticed some residue on the inside of die. That left me wondering if I should be cleaning my dies periodically and how much or how little is really needed. I did watch a video where the guy put his new dies in a sonic cleaner before even using them. Just curious what you all do, and or if there are any special products or procedures you use? I do have a sonic cleaner and case dryer I can use but also wondered if spraying some Gun Scrubber on the inside of each die would work ok. I can always depend on all of your years of experience. Thanks.
Click to expand...

A little hoppes #9 with a jag made for the caliber is perfect. Yes, they do get dirty. You should clean them out once in a while.
 
This is one of the reasons I wet tumble my brass before sizing. I use a universal decapping die first. But I still occasionally clean my dies with Ed’s red or Hoppes.
Don’t forget to clean your reloading press. The residue from decapping is very abrasive.
 
I clean my seating dies now and then since I mostly load lubed cast bullets. It does build up after a spell. Normally use carburetor cleaner or lighter fluid to cut the wax build up.
 
I just started really scrubbing the inside of rifle brass necks to get out the carbon and wonder how the prior years and years of that carbon may have affected the expanding button. I am thinking that would be a good component to be nitrided. Tumbling in corn cob media just doesn't touch those deposits. Would changing to the little pins clean it off and save me having to do a separte step ?
 
I use mostly Redding dies and some RCBS. Never cleaned any. Been using some for 40 years. Loaded 100's of thousands on two Dillons, never cleaned any. Ain't saying it don't help, just saying I don't.
 
terry_tr6 said:
I just started really scrubbing the inside of rifle brass necks to get out the carbon and wonder how the prior years and years of that carbon may have affected the expanding button. I am thinking that would be a good component to be nitrided. Tumbling in corn cob media just doesn't touch those deposits. Would changing to the little pins clean it off and save me having to do a separte step ?
Click to expand...

Stainless pins? It's impressive how well they clean the cases inside and out. All that built up crud will come out of the necks, and the primer pockets. I've found the necks get squeaky clean; so clean that they require a bit of lube to prevent dragging on the expander.
 
When I was a kid, my dad taught me to clean dies after every use. We'd wipe out the insides with a clean rag before coating everything with a light coat of gun oil. Probably overkill, but I'm still using reloading does that are over fifty years old and still look new.
 
Krogen said:
Stainless pins? It's impressive how well they clean the cases inside and out. All that built up crud will come out of the necks, and the primer pockets. I've found the necks get squeaky clean; so clean that they require a bit of lube to prevent dragging on the expander.
Click to expand...
if i want to try pins i guess i need to look at a tumbler to replace my vibrator. how many pounds of pins and size for running in a 3lb capacity drum?
 
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