Year for a 32 Hand Ejector snub?

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I'm trying to find the year my 32 Hand Ejector Improved I-Frame was made for my gunsmith. Trying to get a fix done.


The serial number is on the butt of the gun, 616,XXX. I'm understanding early to mid-50's, but not positive.



Any help is greatly appreciated!
 

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While there might be gunsmiths closer to you, I would ship it to Andy Horvath for repair. Excellent work and good turnaround time.

Kevin
 
Thanks. He was recommended to me by others as well.


I usually send my stuff to Dave Laubert, and we're working together on seeing if he can get this done since we don't thing Cylinder and Slide is taking on any new work.
 
That's a fairly simple repair. However unlike the earlier I frame stud that threads in with a domed end, your model has a pressed in stud that is polished flush then blued. So for a proper repair that won't show, after the new stud is installed and polished flush, the frame would need to be reblued.
 
Usually a blow to the hammer as in the gun is dropped and lands on the hammer is the most likely cause. It still wouldn't fire when equipped with the post WWII hammer safety block. It's just not that common in S&Ws but we've seen a few on this forum. Conceivably it could be an occasional metallurgy problem as well.

Maybe the OP knows some background on this .32 that would shed some light on the cause.
 
Thanks Jim, logical explanation. So the hammer spur may show some damage and the break would occur on the left side where the pin is pressed in the side of the frame. Or, as you said metal fatigue. thanks.
 
Yes usually break on the end although the stud is also supported on the right side in a hole in the side plate. And therefore we're cautioned not to pull the trigger with hammer under full spray tension with the side plate removed.
 
Hello Tom, yea, I can see how an unsupported pin on the right side would cause stress at the base of the pin. But, my stupid question is why dry fire with no side plate on to support the pin?
 
I've have two such failures in the past two years on guns that were neither dropped or dry-fired with the sideplate removed, or at least not within months or years of the breakage. Both occurred while doing rapid dry-fire exercises. At this point I'm going to consider the smaller hammer-pivot in the I and J-frame a liability and refrain from dry-fire without a snap-cap with a plastic or spring-loaded "primer" to cushion the hammer-fall.
 
I'm not positive on when the hammer stud broke. I just purchased this revolver a couple weeks ago. All dry fire was conducted with snap caps. I did take it apart a couple times, once for inspection after buying, and another when I bobbed the hammer and smoothed out the serrations on the trigger face.

It's possible that it had some damage before I took possession, but i have no evidence of that and have no reason to think it was. It's very probable that it broke when I was trying to reassemble the gun the second time. It was not dropped.
 
On the plus side, I think I found the right part number (297550) for the hammer stud, but not able to find one in stock. I talked to C&S and they're a couple years backlogged. I do have a couple other leads, but no matter what, it doesn't seem like this gun is coming with me to a revolver class in September.
 
Some suppliers to try:

'Guns & Gun Parts' (Recommended by S&W)
(413) 732-9938
983 Westfield St
West Springfield MA 01089-3813
EMAIL: [email protected]
Guns n Parts - New and Used Guns Bought and Sold. no parts list here.


Liberty Tree Collectors Phone:207-285-3111
139 Main Street, Corinth, ME 04427
Email:[email protected]
Liberty tree collectors has original, CCH lanyard rings (but without the retaining pin) for $25.

Samuel Simmons specializes in reproduced screws and old parts
221 English Hulse Rd
Pocahontas, AR 72455
E-mail: [email protected]
Sam is "hoxycarman870" formerly "ruffkat" on eBay & Gunbroker

George Dye
"Salt Lake Collectibles Co."
P.O. Box 57433, Salt Lake City, UT, 84157
phone (205)502-2026


Brownells: Gunsmithing supplies, equipment, gun parts, technical advice.
Mail Address: 200 South Front Street, Montezuma, IA 50171
Phone: 800-741-0015
Fax: 641-623-3896
Web Site: Brownells - Firearms, Reloading Supplies, Gunsmithing Tools, Gun Parts and Accessories


"Aonepawninc" http://stores.ebay.com/aonepawninc
has a bunch of old S&W parts for sale. They are very customer oriented and have very reasonable prices. 1/10/16

Dave Bennett: Parts and guns from 1900 up to 1970's.
e-Mail: [email protected]
Web Site: 22ammobox.com - contact with domain owner | Epik.com

Jack First: Large selection of Pre- and Post-WWII parts.
Phone: 605-343-9544
Reproduced firing pins for 22/32 Kit Gun and HFT

Gun Parts Corp: Successor to Numrich Arms; many gun parts.
226 Williams Lane, West Hurley, NY 12491
Phone: 845-679-2417
e-Mail: [email protected]
Web Site: Gun Parts & Firearm Accessories | Numrich Gun Parts

Jim Horvath: Many parts for all S&W's (large and small) from 1860 up;
can reproduce parts.
e-Mail: [email protected]

Jeff Lee: Lee's Gun Parts (an extensive supply of gun parts, including S&W) Mike who works for Lee has 45 M25 barrels.
(Open to the public on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays).
3401 W. Pioneer, Suite 2, Irving, TX 75061
Phone: 972-790-0773
http://www.leesgunparts.com/

Poppert's Gun Parts: http://www.poppertsgunparts.com/
P.O. Box 413
Glenside, PA 19038
Tel: 215-887-2391 Fax: 215-887-5816
Email: [email protected]

Phil Saccacio: Phone: 540-456-6405
e-Mail: [email protected]

Dave Szilagy: Manufactures parts for older S&W's.
Mail Address: 3107 Electric, Lincoln Park, MI 48146
e-Mail: [email protected]

Mike Veilleux: Guns and Gun Parts
All Parts inc. for Pre- and Post-WWII S&W's.
Phone: 413-732-9938
e-Mail: [email protected]
Web Site: www.gunsnparts.com

S&W Parts; antique and new
[email protected]
Ph: 352 394-7412
 
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