0W-20 SYNTHETIC OIL???

The very best oil you can use is Amsoil Signature 0-W20 which is the undisputed champion by every oil specialist, race car driver and car aficionado. The downside is the price! Second best and 95% as good is Penzoil ULTRA Platinum (not the regular platinum). It is made from natural gas and is excellent at 1/3 the price. The best filter is Amsoil as well. Forget about what they told us about oils 30 years ago - 100% full synthetic is now the best there is for new vehicles.


Today’s fuel efficient oil is as thin as water but chemically far superior to yesterday’s kind.

My research shows the same results.

But I’m not about to pay the money they want when Mobil One and Wix have done well for me the last 40 years.
 
0W-20 is a useful oil.
It, plus some STP oil treatment, has become my go to gun lube.
My 23 outback turbo runs the stuff. It holds up remarkably well despite the hellish environment it faces in a turbocharged engine.
Embrace the stuff. It's a lot more robust than you might think
 
I'll second Amsoil. I have a 2019 F150 at 62k. I took a kit from Amsoil to my local mechanic for a change. I instantly noticed a difference. The engine was quieter on startup. Still waiting to see how it goes over 5k. I am debating on whether or not to do one of those send away oil tests. I got an oil change kit for my MC and am waiting to see how it works on next change.
 
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My Harley calls for 20-50, my Tacoma is 0-20.

Every Harley I've owned over the years took 20-50.

Do you remember when Harley warned synthetic oil could cause bearing skate?
Then they went radio silent on the issue when they started selling it...


Have you ever run Type F ATF in the primary? You can actually feel it engage more positively.
 
I think it has to do with the energy shut off/restart system if you are in drive and stop. With frequent starts, you need an oil that is light as distilled water.

I make sure to disable that each time I drive. I have changed enough starters out in the wet and cold in my life.
 
Having been raised in PA, I grew up with the notion that one only used lube oil made from Pennsylvania crude. Higher lube factor in the crude. Along came my second new car and I'd already done my first oil change and realized that while the hot engine idle oil pressure was OK, it was less than with the break in oil.

Decided to attend the dealerships new owners class (not entirely for knowledge) and learned quite a few things including that Castrol was a superior oil. The next oil change involved Castrol and hot idle oil pressure was back where it originally was. Been using Catrol-including 0W-20-ever since. Worth the money. Hint: wally world has really good prices on the product. One of the only 3 things I'll buy there.

Biku324s comments on oil back in the day brought back memories. For you youngins, back then oil use of a quart per 1000 miles was common on vehicles. One also viewed vehicles with 50-60K miles as candidates for an overhaul. Not no more!

Related add on: one of the other things I learned was that not all oil filters are created equal. They had cut aways examples of leading brands plus the factory brand. Haven't bought a Fram since.
 
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My research shows the same results.

But I’m not about to pay the money they want when Mobil One and Wix have done well for me the last 40 years.

I've used Amsoil for over 3 decades but it has now priced itself out. I also have drastically switched my driving habits and now drive each vehicle under 5,000 miles a year. The ULTRA Platinum Penzoil is rated at 95% - 96% as good as the Signature Amsoil and costs 1/3 the price - available on Amazon with no shipping costs. Unless you intend to participate in the Daytona 500 your car's engine will not even notice!

At 3 times the price of the "95% - as-good" Ultra Platinum Penzoil, the Amsoil Signature is just no longer justifiable to me. The Ultra Platinum also far far exceeds ALL manufacturers specifications for lubrication, protection from heat and longevity. I have switched to the Penzoil product above a year ago with exceptional results so far.

ADDED NOTES: If I still drove 20,000+ miles a year I'd bite the bullet and still use the Amsoil for the extra 5% of protection. That said, if I drive 5K mi. a year now it's a lot. Everything is so convenient here and when we travel we fly. :)

BTW, the engine manufacturers keep using thinner and thinner oils as it has less resistance and gives better gas milage. Because the engineers have figured out how to get better protection, lubrication and longevity out of ultra thin oils, they can now safely use them. Most car manufacturers also call for synthetic oils now which are MUCH better and last MUCH longer than Dinosaur oils did. Technology does sometimes succeed! :p
 
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My 2022 Ford 7.3 (445ci) ozone killing environmental nightmare still calls for 5W-30.
 
I think it has to do with the energy shut off/restart system if you are in drive and stop. With frequent starts, you need an oil that is light as distilled water.

I make sure to disable that each time I drive. I have changed enough starters out in the wet and cold in my life.

I turn that off first thing getting in my car. The many times I was at a stop light and heard the car next to me shudder upon moving convinced me.
 
It's not about " Tighter tolerances " , etc. 0w-20 oil yields a slightly better fuel economy which is critical to conform to CAFE standards .
 
I turn that off first thing getting in my car. The many times I was at a stop light and heard the car next to me shudder upon moving convinced me.

There are many ways to defeat that system on new cars. One can just disconnect the control module from the + battery post which makes the shut-off devise non functioning. You can also buy a replacement switch (for most cars) that takes the place of the momentary contact switch and allows it to be turned off - but still function with another push of the switch IF you want it on. Some people simply fold a match book cover and jam it in on the side of the button to keep it pushed in constantly.

Our new car has the stop/start feature and since the momentary contact defeat switch is right near the ignition button we automatically just push it in every time we start the car - without even thinking about it. We just use two fingers at start up - lol.
 
0W-20 is a useful oil.
It, plus some STP oil treatment, has become my go to gun lube.
My 23 outback turbo runs the stuff. It holds up remarkably well despite the hellish environment it faces in a turbocharged engine.
Embrace the stuff. It's a lot more robust than you might think

After seeing how badly STP oil treatment gummed up my '64 GTO, I wouldn't use it to lube a wagon wheel.
 
Way back in the late ‘60’s a buddy had a Ford station wagon that blew a blue smoke trail going down the road. I put a quart of 90 weight gear oil in and smoke cut down dramatically. Joe
 
Thank you all.. 0W-20 oil for first oil change scheduled this afternoon.

VALVOLINE ADVANCED, they were wth only people that had it in stock in their IN-AND-OUT store. EVERYBODY else was out of stock.:eek:


Sal
 
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