WIX Oil Filters

I once believed Wix were a top tier filter.
Be aware that Wix filters is now owned by Mann Hummel.
Many Wix branded filters are made in China.
I'm not sure now. Not against the brand, but just not sure the quality is the same across the brand.
 
I like Project Farm on YouTube. You may want to search YT for "Project Farm Oil Filter Tests."

If I remember correctly, he rated Purolator Boss the best.
But Wix, Mobil 1, Napa Gold / Platinum, Purolator One, and many others are excellent.

I usually avoid cheap filters and cheap oil.
 
The chance of bad filters causing engine failure is slim, unless the filter burst, and the engine seized from lack of oil. What is more likely however is excessive wear on the various parts resulting in higher oil consumption including the notorious blue exhaust cloud.

My experience with autos goes back to cars made in the 1950's. Back then, they ALL had blue smoke at 50,000 miles, even though the oil was changed every 1,000 miles (that's' what Grandpa said we should do).

Prior to that era, Dad said the oil was formulated with a wax additive, to help seal up the rings. (his tale, not mine, I dunno)

Regardless, oil AND engines are much improved these days. I personally don't believe that any one brand is better than another, provided you follow the owner's manual.
 
I call bull pucky on that site. Any site that ranks Fram in the top 10 is bogus, IMHO. Fram has had a long-time reputation of producing ****.

Actually, I have used Fram for decades without issue. As a matter of fact, never had a vehicle that needed engine service using Fram and synthetic oil long before it was a fad. Changed my own oil and bought Walmart Fram filters since they were handy. Maybe you could enlighten me as to what was wrong with them?
 
Wix for me and my customers. They make a "value" line (Pro-Tec) that I stock for most applications. Some other premium brands as well. Or OEM. What's more important than the brand is religious oil change intervals. Even that seems to be quite opinion driven though.Pun intended. I get to see what makes engines fail a lot and usually it is a LACK of oil that does them in, lubrication wise. Overheating does them in often as well. Neglect is not your friend
 
I ordered a Motorcraft oil filter off Amazon for the F350. It was counterfeit. A good one, but not good enough. I spent my entire working life as a printer and the packaging just didn't look quite right. I took it into a Ford dealer and they pulled an OEM for me and we compared it. The filter was way different. The hole pattern was totally off. The colors on the packaging were a bit off which is what I think was giving me the hinkies.

They traded me an OEM filter for it so they could put it up on the shelf to show people. Now I go to the dealer parts department to get my oil filters. Too many fakes out there. I've preferred OEM filters for a while. I think Fram did that to me.
 
I am confident that XXXX oil is the best possible brand, and YYYY is the best possible oil filter. I've been using these items for 50 years and never had a problem. My engines last until I trade in the car.

If we polled 100 people, there could be 100 different Xs and Ys. Also, most of the people that replied would say that they change their stuff frequently, by the book.

My question is: "Has anyone ever had an engine failure that could be positively traced to a bad product?"

AMEN to the mountain tops....Bro

ANY filter will work if you change yer oil frequently.......My dad's 1959 CHEVY........CAME WITHOUT an oil filter....Had added one on.
 
I wouldn't trust a random web site that links all products to Amazon. Where they get a small commission if someone buys through that link.

I can't imagine that there is anything wrong with WIX, but they did not make the list of the top 10 in this link.

10 Best Oil Filters (2023 Guide) - Mechanic Base

I would guess that any of the major names in oil filters would perform very well if regularly changed with the oil as per manufacturers recommendations.
 
A lot of opinions ( reputations ) are based on what people read on the Internet , and not on real world experience . I wish I had a dollar for every Fram filter I have used for the last 50 years . ZERO oil/filter related issues on anything I've owned . That's what I base my opinion on .

..........X2
 
My question is: "Has anyone ever had an engine failure that could be positively traced to a bad product?"


Doesn't have to be failure per se, IMO.

Could be sludge build-up, could be loss of protection under high heat, could be a number of things short of failure, IMO.

Not all oils are created equal, certainly not oil filters. Wix once ran an auto store promo, maybe nation wide. They cut a Fram & Wix filter at the ring. That allowed one to lift the filter shell up & expose the inner filter. The difference was mind boggling as was the weight difference of the filters.

K&N filters may be the best, but boy, they sure charge for them, IMO. I've used nothing but Wix for decades until the last 5-6 years. I now have eased over to Mobil 1 oil filters mostly because Wally World doesn't sell Wix, at least in my area.
 
Just an FYI, NAPA's filters are made by WIX. Drop the first digit off the WIX part number and you have the NAPA part #. 51515=1515, 33481=3481, 42276 =2276.
Cut apart a Fram and compare it to a Wix. The quality difference is readily apparent.
C'mon, you can easily spend $90-100K on a new truck. You want to hang a $3 filter on your baby?
 
I cut open a fram; Found a paper towel inside. I went to NAPA Gold 'till they went 8+$. Went to Motorcraft when at Walmart 3.5$. Now 8.5$. I don't know what failure on any of them looks like as I drain hot and change no more than 3500 miles. Fill the filter before screwing back into place. I added Slick50 20 years ago in both my 91 460, and 96 351. No complaints at 430k, and 283k respectively. All conventional NAPA of Valvoline oils.
 
Actually, I have used Fram for decades without issue. As a matter of fact, never had a vehicle that needed engine service using Fram and synthetic oil long before it was a fad. Changed my own oil and bought Walmart Fram filters since they were handy. Maybe you could enlighten me as to what was wrong with them?

I have also.
 
I've had my hands in engine grease and oil for too many years.

I've read thousands of comparisons, research, studies, anecdotal testimonials.

I've tried just about every brand of motor oil and filters over the past 60 years.

The Consumer Reports 2-year study of New York taxi cabs was the best real study that I can remember.

"According to a Consumer Reports study, which tested various motor oils in a fleet of New York City taxis for nearly two years, they found that no significant difference existed between different brands of motor oil when used under extreme driving conditions like those experienced by NYC cabs; essentially, any oil meeting the standard API (American Petroleum Institute) specifications is sufficient, and expensive synthetic oils did not outperform conventional oils in this severe driving scenario."

In the early 60's I changed oil and filter every 3,000. In the 70's and 80's, when the auto manufacturer's owner's manual stated every 5,000 miles I changed the oil and filter every 5,000 miles. In the 2000s the Owner's Manual said change oil every 10,000 mile, I changed the oil and filter every 5,000 miles. Today I change the oil and filter every 5,000 miles regardless of what the Dealer or auto manufacturer says.

I've had multiple tests done by Blackstone Laboratories over the years and the test results are always excellent for miles tested.

Since 2020, during the scamdemic, I've been ordering oil and filters from Amazon and buying Wix filters. My dad was an old school auto mechanic, and I was turning wrenches at 10 years old. He was really big on preventative maintenance, and I've carried that belief since then. My autos always get very high mileages.

Honestly… If my engines can tell the difference between oil brand or filters, I don't know how to prove it. If I lived in a very cold climate, I'd be using all synthetic oil and grease..

My last Blackstone test was with STP synthetic 5W-20 motor oil and a Wix filter.
 

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I quit changing oil when I decided to do nothing on my little FWD cars that I couldn't reach from under the hood.
A couple free oil changes came with my Frontier from the dealer and done every 6K now's the time. I've used either Wix or Purolator but didn't see neither at the local Auto Zone but O'Reilly's around the corner has both. I always liked the way a Wix felt in my hand unlike a Fram that I could crush like a beer can. Just wondered if the quality was as I remembered.
Wix along with Mobil1 or Pennzoil, I'll decide when I'm there.
Thanks for the words.
 
Actually, I have used Fram for decades without issue. As a matter of fact, never had a vehicle that needed engine service using Fram and synthetic oil long before it was a fad. Changed my own oil and bought Walmart Fram filters since they were handy. Maybe you could enlighten me as to what was wrong with them?

From what I have recently read about Fram's Ultra filter, it seems to be a good choice (though not the best). However, we are talking about premium filters costing between $10 to $20 a piece.

Fram's lowest price filter was shown in a test where filters were deconstructed, to contain less filter material and use of a cardboard piece for the bypass valve. In my own tests (I have a tool specifically designed to cut filters apart) I can vouch for this finding. For 'low' priced filters, I have relied on Delco. For high priced filters, I use Mobil 1.

Be careful when comparing filter tests. I have seen oil filter tests run like air filter tests, where the testers compare flow rates. What does a higher flow rate really indicate? Let's use physics. Given a fixed surface area, you can only increase flow rates in one way: make your filter material more porous. By increase the porosity of your filter material, you are going to let more contaminates through. This is true with any kind of filter: oil, air or fuel. In order to increase flow without sacrificing filtration, you must increase the filter surface area. This is usually achieved by adding pleats to the filter material, thus increasing surface area. Even with this, one must be careful measuring flow though because if a filter is working too well, it can cause enough restriction to cause the bypass to open, thus giving misleading results.

Here is the real-life truth: chances are, given the average person keeps a car an average of 12 years. Assuming 12,000 miles per year, that would put average mileage of those cars at 144,000. With the advances in manufacturing techniques and materials, as well as advances in lubricants, even using bargain basement filters will most likely suffice. But for those out there who are like me, we believe in maintaining our mechanical equipment in the best possible manner. We use pure synthetic oil, premium filters and adhere to the manufacturer's recommended change frequency. Is it money wasted? That depends on your point of view. We look at it as cheap insurance.

From personal first-hand experience, I owned a 1973 Balzer that I used Valvoline's best (at the time) motor oil in with changes at the recommended intervals. At 40k, I pulled the valve covers off and discovered the heads were sludged so bad, it was a miracle oil was making it back into the pan. When I replaced the truck with 1978 half ton, I switched to Mobil 1. Instead of changing oil and filter at the recommended frequency, I changed the filter and added a quart of oil at the first interval, then changed both oil and filter at the next interval. 1978 was a notorious year for GM 350 engines with many eating the camshaft by 10k miles. Mine lasted until 32k, a testament to the oil, IMHO. Since it was long past the 12k warranty, I changed the cam myself. When I pulled the manifold off, I was surprised to find the engine was spotless inside without a trace of sludge or deposits of any kind. I became a true believer.

Lastly, I found this and found it interesting:
Just a moment...
 
I cut open a fram; Found a paper towel inside. I went to NAPA Gold 'till they went 8+$. Went to Motorcraft when at Walmart 3.5$. Now 8.5$. I don't know what failure on any of them looks like as I drain hot and change no more than 3500 miles. Fill the filter before screwing back into place. I added Slick50 20 years ago in both my 91 460, and 96 351. No complaints at 430k, and 283k respectively. All conventional NAPA of Valvoline oils.

SLICK50? That's a throwback. :D
 

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