Those strange Remington Nylon bolt actions...

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Most folks know about the Remington Nylon 66 series of semiautomatic .22 rifles, which were something of a sensation when they were introduced in 1958. Beginning in 1961 and running through 1964, they also came up with some nylon-stocked bolt action rifles. Not many folks know about these today, and few have even seen one. Even collectors argue about how they are sorted out. There are some very rare and valuable ones in the bunch, so I thought I'd try to shed some light on them.

The first to go into production was the Nylon 11, in late 1961. It was fitted with a 6-shot metal detachable magazine. It had a butter-knife Mannlicher-style bolt handle. 22,423 of them were made. Here's a picture:

NYLON_11-1280_zpse691c8b9.jpg


In 1964, shortly before the bolt actions were discontinued, a few Nylon 11s were made with longer barrels. The quantity is unknown, but there were very few, and they are quite valuable today. Here's a pic of one of these, equipped with the optional 10-round metal magazine:

NYLON_11_LB-1280_zps2d154e82.jpg


In late 1962, the Nylon 10 was introduced. This was a low-cost single shot number. Only 8,606 of these rifles were made, and it's rarely encountered today. The bolt on this beginner-oriented rifle engages the safety each time the bolt is brought back. It has to be released each time to fire the shot. Here's a shot of this rarity:

NYLON_10-1280_zpsd0d479af.jpg


A really rare variation of the Nylon 10 was the smooth-bore version, designed to fire only .22 LR shot shells. There was no rifling in the bore. These are almost never found today, as only 2,064 were made. Needless to say, prices on these now border on unreasonable. Here's the marking on the barrel that distinguishes them:

NYLON_10_SB-1280_zpsf8cbe15e.jpg


In 1964, an extremely small number of long-barreled Nylon 10s were made. They are ghosts on the collector market; I've never seen one. This picture has been Photoshopped to show what it looks like. These are unbearably expensive when offered for sale.

NYLON_10_LB-1280_zpsb9f1e1cf.jpg


In late 1962, the Nylon 12 was put on the market. It was a tube-fed repeater, with the tube under the barrel. Its production quantity was 27,551. Here's a pic:

NYLON_12-1280_zps91d89a56.jpg


A small number of long-barreled Nylon 12s was made in 1964. Quantity is unknown, but they are rare. Here is one:

NYLON_12_LB-1280_zps02a50ed3.jpg


The bolt action nylon rifles were never very popular, so not that many were made. Perversely, they are now some of the most valuable finds on the collector market. If you find one at anywhere near a reasonable price at a gun show or gun store, it's money in the bank, and Remington Nylon collectors will fall all over themselves trying to buy it from you!

As a side note, these guns will more often than not be found with no rear sight. To scope the rifle properly, it was necessary to remove that sight, and the sight was routinely put aside and lost. Therefore, the rear sights are in demand and have gotten pretty expensive when found.

Hope you find this summary of interest. All of these pictures, taken today, are copyrighted to me.

John
 
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Another great thread, thank you.

I am in the process of creating my own instructional materials for rifle and pistol instruction. I cannot afford to buy stock photos, and at any rate none fit my needs.

Would you be willing to tell how you make those beautiful firearms photos on that white background? I need to learn so I may get my class materials ready.

Thank you in advance and if you'd rather not share. I understand.
Erich


Most folks know about the Remington Nylon 66 series of semiautomatic .22 rifles, which were something of a sensation when they were introduced in 1958. Beginning in 1961 and running through 1964, they also came up with some nylon-stocked bolt action rifles. Not many folks know about these today, and few have even seen one. Even collectors argue about how they are sorted out. There are some very rare and valuable ones in the bunch, so I thought I'd try to shed some light on them.

The first to go into production was the Nylon 11, in late 1961. It was fitted with a 6-shot metal detachable magazine. It had a butter-knife Mannlicher-style bolt handle. 22,423 of them were made. Here's a picture:

NYLON_11-1280_zpse691c8b9.jpg


In 1964, shortly before the bolt actions were discontinued, a few Nylon 11s were made with longer barrels. The quantity is unknown, but there were very few, and they are quite valuable today. Here's a pic of one of these, equipped with the optional 10-round metal magazine:

NYLON_11_LB-1280_zps2d154e82.jpg


In late 1962, the Nylon 10 was introduced. This was a low-cost single shot number. Only 8,606 of these rifles were made, and it's rarely encountered today. The bolt on this beginner-oriented rifle engages the safety each time the bolt is brought back. It has to be released each time to fire the shot. Here's a shot of this rarity:

NYLON_10-1280_zpsd0d479af.jpg


A really rare variation of the Nylon 10 was the smooth-bore version, designed to fire only .22 LR shot shells. There was no rifling in the bore. These are almost never found today, as only 2,064 were made. Needless to say, prices on these now border on unreasonable. Here's the marking on the barrel that distinguishes them:

NYLON_10_SB-1280_zpsf8cbe15e.jpg


In 1964, an extremely small number of long-barreled Nylon 10s were made. They are ghosts on the collector market; I've never seen one. This picture has been Photoshopped to show what it looks like. These are unbearably expensive when offered for sale.

NYLON_10_LB-1280_zpsb9f1e1cf.jpg


In late 1962, the Nylon 12 was put on the market. It was a tube-fed repeater, with the tube under the barrel. Its production quantity was 27,551. Here's a pic:

NYLON_12-1280_zps91d89a56.jpg


A small number of long-barreled Nylon 12s was made in 1964. Quantity is unknown, but they are rare. Here is one:

NYLON_12_LB-1280_zps02a50ed3.jpg


The bolt action nylon rifles were never very popular, so not that many were made. Perversely, they are now some of the most valuable finds on the collector market. If you find one at anywhere near a reasonable price at a gun show or gun store, it's money in the bank, and Remington Nylon collectors will fall all over themselves trying to buy it from you!

As a side note, these guns will more often than not be found with no rear sight. To scope the rifle properly, it was necessary to remove that sight, and the sight was routinely put aside and lost. Therefore, the rear sights are in demand and have gotten pretty expensive when found.

Hope you find this summary of interest. All of these pictures, taken today, are copyrighted to me.

John
 
And I thought the lever action version was an odd idea. Fun read.

I thought the lever action Nylon 76 "Trail Rider" rifles were actually pretty nice. These were the only lever actions ever made by Remington. Here is one of the Mohawk Brown models and one of the uber-rare Apache Black variations.*

John

NYLON_76-MB-1280_zpsca33de26.jpg


NYLON_76-AB-1280_zps6d2802ad.jpg


*Pictures (c) 2013 JLM
 
Another great thread, thank you.

I am in the process of creating my own instructional materials for rifle and pistol instruction. I cannot afford to buy stock photos, and at any rate none fit my needs.

Would you be willing to tell how you make those beautiful firearms photos on that white background? I need to learn so I may get my class materials ready.

Thank you in advance and if you'd rather not share. I understand.
Erich

Erich,

I developed this technique over the years to illustrate the articles on classic guns I do for Dillon's Blue Press catalog/magazine. Here's the formula:

1. The background is white counter top material from Home Depot. I use a long sheet for long guns and a smaller one for handguns.

2. I use a tripod and mount my camera so that it points straight down or nearly so over the firearm.

3. I use a really good digital single lens camera. I have used the Pentax K-5 and more lately (as with these photos), the incredible Pentax K-3, which is a professional level item. Any good DSLR with controls that will allow manual control will probably do fine. Be sure to lose any extra filter glass over the lens and use a lens hood to eliminate any possibility of lens flare. Prime lenses (non-zoomers) are the sharpest, since there is less internal glass, but good zooms will work well enough. I shoot outdoors in the shade, or better yet, on an overcast day. This gives very soft shadows, which can be virtually eliminated in post-processing. Who needs artificial lighting when nature is ready and willing to help out?

4. Manually, I set the aperture anywhere between f/8 and f/11 to get good depth of field. I set the white balance on automatic, and it usually is right on the money. I adjust the shutter speed to overexpose the full white-background picture by about 2 1/2 stops, so that I get a nice white background and perfectly exposed subjects. I also shoot with a 2-second delay setting, which allows the internal mirror to flip up before the picture is taken, minimizing any possible vibration of the camera. I set the image stabilization feature off, as it will attempt to compensate for camera movement that isn't there, degrading the picture quality. I can adjust the K-3 to do away with the camera's internal anti-aliasing filter, which results in much sharper images. I shoot in the RAW format so that I can process the picture on the computer.

5. In post-processing, I adjust brightness, contrast, vibrance, and other parameters using PhotoShop Elements 10, and convert the RAW file to jpeg format. I then straighten the subject to horizontal, crop, make final color adjustments, clone out defects like dust on the subject and slightly sharpen the image. Then it's sized appropriately for use. The K-3 takes huge 24 megapixel images.

When the images are posted here, they are automatically reduced to 1024 pixels wide, which to my mind is much smaller than ideal. I do post some of the pics on my albums here, where they are at my chosen compromise size of 1280 pixels wide. You can see more detail in those albums.

Hope this explanation isn't too "techy," but that's what I do to generate my pictures. Hopefully this will be helpful to you.

John
 
Back in about 1965 we used the bolt action Nylon rifles in the marksmanship program at Boy Scout summer camp. I was only 13 at the time. I can't tell you now exactly which model we used but I thought that was about the coolest rifle I'd ever seen! I never again saw another one until just two weeks ago when I discovered one in a shop in Colorado. I walked away without buying it but have been thinking of it ever since. May just have to go back down there and get it for Christmas!
 
I bought one of the bolt actions used back in the late 60s. I think it
was the single shot if I remember correctly. It seemed cheap and
flimsy compared to wood stocked guns so I eventually traded it off for
something else. It would be many years before I owned another plastic
Remington, the 66 MB I now own and love. The 66 fits me so well and
points where I'm looking and is the only 22 rifle I have ever owned
that I have been able to hit cottontail rabbits on the run with. The 66
did not build it's reputation on accuracy but mine will shoot groups
from a rest with std velocity ammo that rival those from my bolt
action 22s.
 
how did Remington get around NFA laws buy making a smooth bore 22 rifle? is the 22 bird shot considered a specific round for use in the gun that allows it? I know Remington made some smoothbore rifles where they had a screwin rifled insert section at the muzzle that was rifled but I don't remember the model number.
 
how did Remington get around NFA laws buy making a smooth bore 22 rifle? is the 22 bird shot considered a specific round for use in the gun that allows it? I know Remington made some smoothbore rifles where they had a screwin rifled insert section at the muzzle that was rifled but I don't remember the model number.

A .22 smoothbore long gun would be illegal only if its barrel measured less than 18 inches. The barrel on this one is 19 inches long, so it's in the same category as shotguns in any gauge or caliber.

John
 
My goodness!! What a very generous sharing of information. You just helped me be able to publish my own training materials without buying stock photos or paying a photographer.

I will print this out, and I hope the mods place this post in an area where others can benefit as well, I think a lot of people could have a lot of fun taking pictures.

What is great is your use of natural light and inexpensive self made subject background. I thought I would,have to invest a great deal in other equipment besides the camera!

Also very helpful are your camera settings, as I am currently an "automatic" picture taker. Now I have a base to work with.

I was thinking of using a film camera then scanning, but it seems to me better post production results are had with RAW images.

I was looking at Nikon's 7000 series cameras, which are in the same price range as the K3. Did you choose the K3 for the anti-aliasing feature?

Wonderful information!
Thank you sir, thank you.
Erich

Erich,

I developed this technique over the years to illustrate the articles on classic guns I do for Dillon's Blue Press catalog/magazine. Here's the formula:

1. The background is white counter top material from Home Depot. I use a long sheet for long guns and a smaller one for handguns.

2. I use a tripod and mount my camera so that it points straight down or nearly so over the firearm.

3. I use a really good digital single lens camera. I have used the Pentax K-5 and more lately (as with these photos), the incredible Pentax K-3, which is a professional level item. Any good DSLR with controls that will allow manual control will probably do fine. Be sure to lose any extra filter glass over the lens and use a lens hood to eliminate any possibility of lens flare. Prime lenses (non-zoomers) are the sharpest, since there is less internal glass, but good zooms will work well enough. I shoot outdoors in the shade, or better yet, on an overcast day. This gives very soft shadows, which can be virtually eliminated in post-processing. Who needs artificial lighting when nature is ready and willing to help out?

4. Manually, I set the aperture anywhere between f/8 and f/11 to get good depth of field. I set the white balance on automatic, and it usually is right on the money. I adjust the shutter speed to overexpose the full white-background picture by about 2 1/2 stops, so that I get a nice white background and perfectly exposed subjects. I also shoot with a 2-second delay setting, which allows the internal mirror to flip up before the picture is taken, minimizing any possible vibration of the camera. I set the image stabilization feature off, as it will attempt to compensate for camera movement that isn't there, degrading the picture quality. I can adjust the K-3 to do away with the camera's internal anti-aliasing filter, which results in much sharper images. I shoot in the RAW format so that I can process the picture on the computer.

5. In post-processing, I adjust brightness, contrast, vibrance, and other parameters using PhotoShop Elements 10, and convert the RAW file to jpeg format. I then straighten the subject to horizontal, crop, make final color adjustments, clone out defects like dust on the subject and slightly sharpen the image. Then it's sized appropriately for use. The K-3 takes huge 24 megapixel images.

When the images are posted here, they are automatically reduced to 1024 pixels wide, which to my mind is much smaller than ideal. I do post some of the pics on my albums here, where they are at my chosen compromise size of 1280 pixels wide. You can see more detail in those albums.

Hope this explanation isn't too "techy," but that's what I do to generate my pictures. Hopefully this will be helpful to you.

John
 
My goodness!! What a very generous sharing of information. You just helped me be able to publish my own training materials without buying stock photos or paying a photographer.

I will print this out, and I hope the mods place this post in an area where others can benefit as well, I think a lot of people could have a lot of fun taking pictures.

What is great is your use of natural light and inexpensive self made subject background. I thought I would,have to invest a great deal in other equipment besides the camera!

Also very helpful are your camera settings, as I am currently an "automatic" picture taker. Now I have a base to work with.

I was thinking of using a film camera then scanning, but it seems to me better post production results are had with RAW images.

I was looking at Nikon's 7000 series cameras, which are in the same price range as the K3. Did you choose the K3 for the anti-aliasing feature?

Wonderful information!
Thank you sir, thank you.
Erich

Thanks, Erich.

I chose the K-3 because it's a better and more versatile camera. The superior features include a really rugged body utilizing a steel and magnesium alloy frame. It's fully weather-sealed (including the kit lenses), so you can take it out in the rain.

The anti-aliasing feature is switchable - I prefer not using the AA mode at all for sharper pictures. No other comparable camera has this ability. If strange patterns appear in striped subjects, you can turn it on - have your cake and eat it too.

It's incredibly versatile - you can set it up to do anything you want, movies, time-lapse photography, multiple-image single shots, hand-held HDR 3-shots combined, 3 user-specific modes on demand, time AND aperture modes selected at the same time (camera adjusts the ISO), great ISO noise performance; huge files, vibrant colors, excellent focus tracking on moving objects - I could go on and on. One feature I really like that I don't see in other cameras: I generally shoot just jpegs to save card space. However, when I look at a shot (like those on this page) and wish to have a RAW shot of the picture, I hit the review button, press the AE-L button, and the camera saves the RAW file which is still in camera memory until I take another pic or turn off the camera. It's attached to the jpeg and will download when that picture comes up, as well.

I also like that I have an inventory of old Pentax lenses dating back to the film era, and I can use all of them on this camera. The image stabilization feature is in the sensor rather than individual lenses, so it works with ALL K-mount lenses, old or new. Even the old screw-mount lenses will work with an adapter. High-end Pentax lenses meet or beat any ever produced by Nikon or Canon for image quality.

I do my homework on cameras, and this one was a no-brainer. Nikon and Canon are popular, but Pentax has always offered more bang for the buck, and this time they made an end run around Canikon and scored big.

John
 
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Thank You tpr sharing !

I am sure I can use this and it will probably work well with other inanimate objects!!
 
Thank You for sharing!

I am sure I can use this and it will probably work well with other inanimate objects!!
 
I picked up a Nylon 10 single shot, today, and my research led me here. From what I gather, I did pretty good at $200. It is probably in 95% condition. Thanks to the OP. I found this very informative.
 
I bought a 66 when they came out and a couple of years later, my Mother and I got a model 12 for my Dad for Christmas.
Shooting Jack Rabbits and selling them to a mink farm kept me gasoline during high school and beer in college.

My folks are gone now and I have passed the 66 to my Son and the 12 to my Grandson.

I am sending your article to them so they have a better insight into what they have.

Thanks for sharing.
 
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