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Old 02-01-2014, 09:45 AM
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I know this is a Smith forum... I joined to share and learn after I bought my 686, my very first handgun purchase. But I am curious about what follows, and I know there are many, many folks here that can weigh in. I'm a beginner in both owning and shooting handguns, and have discovered how much fun (along with my son) range shooting is.

I inherited my Dad's "bringback" from WW-II when he passed away in 2001- a Walther P-38, the standard 9mm issue German army sidearm. It was basically kept in his sock drawer from after the war, until he passed. (Dad was a rifle marksman before the war, and knew firearms, and kept this oiled. But never fired it, or anything else after the war. A combat veteran and Silver Star receipient from the Battle of the Bulge, he just wanted nothing to do with firearms)

I began range shooting my Smith in December, I got curious about Dad's P-38. I downloaded a .pdf file of the Walther P-38 and P-1 manual from a biker friend, read up on it, examined the slide, then asked my son for 5 rounds of target 9mm (he has a Glock) to take with me to the range. Now, bearing in mind I never fired a semi auto pistol in my life, I was startled by the mini-mule kick (compared to the only frame of reference I have- the silky smooth predictable recoil of my 686) and of the brass flying around. Oh, and I couldn't hit a barn with it either.

Well, son Aaron and I went to the range last Saturday; he mentioned taking it. I said, "Sure! You ought to put 6 through it and compare it to your Glock 17."

We did. And we put way more than 6 rounds through it. More like 60 or 70. It performed flawlessly. Although 70 years old, I'm re-thinking the whole "lock it up in the save it until I croak and will it to Aaron" thing. I watched a Youtube vid by Hickock45 where he put a wartime Walther through it's paces, then field stripped it along with his new Baretta, and showed the barrel lockup and slide design similarities.

This weapon is coded "cyq" and was made by Spreewerk under license in 1944, and are the least collectable of the three manufacturers, the others being Mauser, and of course, Walther. The slide is silky smooth to my uneducated opinion. We both really enjoyed shooting it. I'm sure Dad wouldn't mind... and I'm thinking the long dead German army dude that had it on his hip for a while wouldn't have minded, either.

I said all that to say (or ask) this- Is this pistol a shooter?

Or should I let it sleep?


I'll never sell it.

The finishes on this wartime pistol ware not what a commercial manufacturer would produce, but the slide seems silky smooth, the lockup pad mechanism is burnished but not worn, and the barrel is a mirror.

It is a pleasure to shoot.

Appreciate the comments.




Last edited by Harley Fan; 02-01-2014 at 09:55 AM.
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Old 02-01-2014, 09:53 AM
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Oh, yeah... Remember I'm a beginner... but the middle, and the upper left targets were made by the P-38. (The rest was trying my .38 Special re-loads out of my Smith.)

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Old 02-01-2014, 10:06 AM
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Two ways to look at it. One it's a heirloom and can't be replaced if something happens to it. Second why have it and not use it. It yours, you are the one that has to make the decision whether to fire or not. Depends on where you place sentimental value on it. Or if you want it for investment, could be the more you use it the less it's worth. Do what you feel right.
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Old 02-01-2014, 10:35 AM
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I'd do just what you are doing. It was made to shoot, so shoot it.

Your Dad sounds like a great guy.
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:20 AM
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Paintings are for looking at...guns are for shooting!!!


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Old 02-01-2014, 11:30 AM
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Nice shooting. The only caveat I have on shooting the gun, is the P-38's slides are known to crack on the front portion where the barrel goes through the slide. I would check with members on German Pistol Forums. The Spreewerk pistols were made using slave labor.

https://www.google.com/search?q=P38+...a&channel=fflb
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:53 AM
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I had one when I was in the Army in the '80s. It shot well and was very reliable. I tired of it after a while, and traded it for something else.

I always recommend P-1s (among other things) to people thinking about Hi Points.

I wouldn't mind getting a reinforced P-1 if I had the money. I'm not a fan of true double-action autos, but the P-38/P-1 are interesting enough to overcome that.
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:55 AM
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My first centerfire pistol was a P-38. Still have a soft spot in my head for them. I've also heard of the slides cracking. Stay with standard velocity ammo. I would also recommend changing the recoil springs.
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Old 02-01-2014, 12:01 PM
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Ive owned several never had any probs with them My current is an AC 43 (Walther) and have tossed several hundred rounds down its throat--flawlessly. Ive had a few BYFs too. Not that im putting yous down--ill never collect a CYQ.

ID correction made.

Last edited by the ringo kid; 02-02-2014 at 02:12 PM.
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Old 02-01-2014, 12:04 PM
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I own a Spreewerk P38 that dates to March 1945.

It's amazing how rough the exterior machine-work is...looks like the parts are fresh off the milling machine and into the blue tank...they didn't bother to polish the exterior much/at all.

That said it's a superb shooter.

The P38 gurus say to replace the recoil springs and use 115 gr milder ammo(no +P) if you shoot the old wartime pistols.

Also don't drop the hammer with the de-cocker/safety..let the hammer down so it doesn't batter the slide...this applies to the Walther PPK and PP pistols too. Just decock and ease hammer down..
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Old 02-01-2014, 01:19 PM
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I have a P1 that's marked P-38 from the '50s. Ugliest gun I have except for a velo-dog. But very comfortable to shoot. Only likes FMJs though.
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Old 02-01-2014, 01:28 PM
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I had a nice AC-42 that I should have kept, it functioned and shot well but it got turned into an exhaust system for my Harley. Enjoy your Dad's!
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Old 02-01-2014, 01:36 PM
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I have owned three P.38s over the years. The first one, a Walther '43 example, had a bulged barrel. I cut the barrel off behind the bulge, crowned it, affixed a new front sight, and turned it into an ersatz "snubby" P.38 Kurz. It shot beautifully. I eventually traded it to a friend who thought it was way cool.

The second I laughingly refer to as an MP.38. It was a Spreewerke '45, and I knew I took a chance buying it. Knowing that the safeties on these late guns can crystalize from improper heat treating and the sear engagement could deteriorate, when I took it to the range, I took the precaution of loading only two rounds. Good thing I did. The gun doubled. Since the previous owner had personally guaranteed it, I returned it to him with the story. Again, we both refer to it today as "that MP.38." I hope he got it corrected or deep-sixed it somewhere.

My third is a Walther '43; it works perfectly and is in collector shape. I'm not afraid to shoot it, but I take care to clean it properly and preserve it for future generations. Here's a pic.

John

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Old 02-01-2014, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vulcan Bob View Post
I had a nice AC-42 that I should have kept, it functioned and shot well but it got turned into an exhaust system for my Harley. Enjoy your Dad's!
I feel that, Vulcan Bob!

My Harley is gettin' middle aged, and goes on my lift in a couple weeks for TLC and maintenance. I'm on my 3rd exhaust system, third bar, 2nd seat... never ends, the needy rascals...

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Old 02-01-2014, 06:01 PM
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There are a boatload of P1s out there, and they don't cost much. Or buy a Berretta or a Glock...

Your Dad did not shoot it much if at all. No matter who made it, still it has collector value. As always, you make the call.
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Old 02-01-2014, 06:09 PM
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One of the more comfortable shooting semi autopistols,,at least for me.

I have put my War-Time Walther mfg P38's to rest and don't shoot them anymore.
I did and did extensively. Never had any problems.
But as time went on I did get to witness a few cracked slides on P38s and 2 cracked frames.

Lot's of speculation about the pistols reach some unkn 'round limit', slave labor production and sabotage by same,unsuitable ammunition, ect, ect..

I don't know what or if any of it is in play. I just figured that the pistols were no longer the $75/$100 guns I had started with.
Original parts especially slides and frames were near impossible to find. Plus even if I could replace a cracked slide, a matching Wartime pistol was no more.

The Post War Walther P1/P38 alloy framed pistols began appearing about that time. So I bought a couple of those and that's what I use.
Even those have their own history of cracked slides and frames along with Walther changes and upgrades to those parts to avoid the problems and keep the pistols in service longer.
The W.German Gov't finally dumped them too.

My older P1 made w/o the reinforcement 'pin' in the frame nor the 'fat' slide continues to work fine.
I have no idea of any round count. I shoot Rem-UMC 115gr FMJ stuff in it or some of my puffball LRN reloads.

I'd really hate to loose one of the P1's to a cracked frame or slide.
I like the guns that much.
There are still parts including NOS slides around. As yet the run of the mill used P1 isn't a collectible to stash in the safe.

I'd probably cry if I took one of the matching bring-back AC marked P38's out and cracked a slide or frame on it. Just so I could shoot it again.


Just my thoughts
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Old 02-01-2014, 06:26 PM
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First all the German ww 2 9mm handguns are ammo finicky. Shoot only mild 9mm luger/parabellium ammo. Do not shoot +p ammo or the hotter ammo. Do not install stronger after market springs to shoot the hotter ammo because the gun will break next. I have a unissued p1 that I don't shoot. Bill
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Old 02-02-2014, 08:17 AM
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I appreciate all the comments from everyone. I had a feeling the forum members here would have insight on this. I knew some of the Spreewerke story, but not the potential structural weaknesses of the slide.

I certainly have something to think about.

My son and I have had a great deal of fun at the range- both of us are new to shooting. Should I continue to use it, the actual volume of use it would see between us would be light.

It is fun to shoot! And with perhaps 60 rounds through it that day, it also seemed to work flawlessly. My main reason to be there was to try out my newest .38 Sp. re-loads through my S&W 686. But we switched off occasionally. And here's a confession from a new shooter- I liked the P-38 a great deal more that my son's Glock 17. Now, this is not a point for this thread, or even this forum, but I just don't like that brick of his...

I'm fascinated by the de-cocking feature on this P-38, but in a range environment there's no need to use it.

We visited a brand new range that had just opened, and the rangemaster was fascinated with it, never having seen one. He examined it, at my invitation.

I'm leaning on not using it any more, but as we get closer to another range trip, I may change my mind.

Thanks!

Last edited by Harley Fan; 02-02-2014 at 08:21 AM.
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:38 AM
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I had a WWII version. Shot it quite a bit, but really didn't like the stiff trigger.

BTW If you field strip a P38 and Beretta 90 series gun, you may notice the similarities.
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Old 02-02-2014, 11:36 AM
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I would lock up your dad's gun as a family heirloom and buy a modern Walther P38 for the range. Let your son decide what he will do with it. Congratulations on having such a nice firearm.
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Old 02-02-2014, 12:36 PM
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Walther also made the P5, based on the P38.
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Old 02-02-2014, 01:48 PM
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I have my dad's Luger. We shot it when I was a kid maybe last time around 1965. It hasn't been shot since. It get's cleaned and oiled maybe twice a year. I will put 7 rounds through it my first day of retirement, or the day I win the Powerball, go home, clean and oil it, and put it back in the safe.

That's why I have quite a few other things to shoot, you know everyday shooting.

My $,02
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Old 02-02-2014, 11:47 PM
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Becareful with the original grips also. The material is an early plastic and is brittle from age now. It chips and cracks very easily.
Any damage greatly devalues the grips and the pistol they are on.
Just a set of original Wartime P38 grips can run around $200 and finding the correct set w/ mfg markings ect is very difficult.
The late War metal grips are even more.

Lots of repros around too. They usually sell for $50 and under. Some are very convincing. Some so much so that they are sold as originals.

Many that still use their War-time P38's replace the fragile original grips with repro grips for shooting sessions.

Plus many use Post War P1 magazines ($20 item) instead of the Wartime mags ($75/$100) for shooting.
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Old 02-03-2014, 01:29 AM
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I have only one, a 1943 Walther. Has seen better days, bore is pitted. Shoots fine and feels good in my hand. If I had to rely on it "In Harm's Way" I would feel confident. Got mine at a good price, the safety was "broken". Turns out it was the firing pin that was broken. A $5.00 replacement, about a half hour's work to install. Not an expert by any stretch, I think a 1944 made one would be fine, I think their quality really went down hill in 1945.
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Old 02-03-2014, 06:12 AM
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If it was mine I'd probably fire a a magazine through it every May 8th in memory of my dad. However I'd look for a P1 if I wanted to shoot a pistol in that configuration on a regular basis.
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:33 AM
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I also have my Dad's WWII P38 bringback..It is a AC44 ( Walther) All numbers match as does the magazine..
I also ran across another P38 and snatched it up, it is a BYF43 ( Mauser)..Those who have WWII P38's might like this info..
http://www.pistole38.nl/tech/P38ProductionDates.pdf

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Old 02-03-2014, 02:26 PM
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I found a better explaination of how the war time P38's are serialized..maybe this makes better sense..

WWII coded Walther and Mauser P-38 pistols will also have a production year stamped on the slide. This is two digits. A Walther would be marked "ac 43" as example.

WWII P-38's were made in 10,000 gun "blocks". Each block was given a block letter code in addition to the serial number.
The first block made in January of the year would have the serial number and markings:
ac 43 0001.
The block would run up to 9999.
At that point the numbers would start over at 0001 but an "a" was added: 0001 a.
At 9999 a, the block would change to 0001 b, and so on.

This is important, since there will be MANY P-38 pistols with the SAME serial number.
What identifies individual guns, is the makers code, the year made, the serial number AND the block letter.
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Old 02-03-2014, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by litenlarry View Post
I found a better explaination of how the war time P38's are serialized..maybe this makes better sense..

WWII coded Walther and Mauser P-38 pistols will also have a production year stamped on the slide. This is two digits. A Walther would be marked "ac 43" as example.

WWII P-38's were made in 10,000 gun "blocks". Each block was given a block letter code in addition to the serial number.
The first block made in January of the year would have the serial number and markings:
ac 43 0001.
The block would run up to 9999.
At that point the numbers would start over at 0001 but an "a" was added: 0001 a.
At 9999 a, the block would change to 0001 b, and so on.

This is important, since there will be MANY P-38 pistols with the SAME serial number.
What identifies individual guns, is the makers code, the year made, the serial number AND the block letter.

I knew that, but thanks for posting it. Very useful info!
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Old 02-03-2014, 04:59 PM
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The P38 forum hosted by Orv Reichert, was such a great source of information, I wish I had paid better attention or had the ability to absorb all the knowledge he had gathered..
The forum is no longer, as Orv passed away 01-23-2013.

Man I miss that forum......RIP Orv...
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Old 02-03-2014, 05:09 PM
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I have a 1944 vet bring back with matching holster, but I don't shoot it. Instead, I married the thicker and stronger slide (1.5mm) from a P1 to a P.38 ac steel frame. The parts are relatively cheap. I decided to have mine refinished and added wood grips. It's fun to shot and I don't have to worry about breaking it which can occasionally happen to surplus P.38's.

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Old 02-03-2014, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acco40 View Post
I have a 1944 vet bring back with matching holster, but I don't shoot it. Instead, I married the thicker and stronger slide (1.5mm) from a P1 to a P.38 ac steel frame. The parts are relatively cheap. I decided to have mine refinished and added wood grips. It's fun to shot and I don't have to worry about breaking it which can occasionally happen to surplus P.38's.

Definately a hybrid..Looks cool...
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Old 02-03-2014, 06:50 PM
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Default I'd love to shoot it

I'd shoot it, but not make a workhorse out of it. And not use stiff ammo.

I want one!!!!
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Old 02-03-2014, 07:08 PM
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I had a '42 BYF. You should replace recoil and FP springs. Starting in '44 shortcuts were taken in production. My gun was full of Eagle over Swastika proof marks meaning it was tested to pressures of %20 over standard. If your gun is sans proof marks you may want to be a little careful.
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Old 02-03-2014, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by litenlarry View Post
I also have my Dad's WWII P38 bringback..It is a AC44 ( Walther) All numbers match as does the magazine..
I also ran across another P38 and snatched it up, it is a BYF43 ( Mauser)..Those who have WWII P38's might like this info..
http://www.pistole38.nl/tech/P38ProductionDates.pdf

Great pair. The P-38 stolen from me 14 years ago-not recovered yet) was a Nov 41 BYF--a VERY rare puppy. The chart shown in the link started them in 42 when in fact about 1,500 were made in 41 but only in Nov and Dec-most in Dec..

Last edited by the ringo kid; 02-03-2014 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 02-03-2014, 08:43 PM
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I bought one about 1960 with the holster and both mags. I can't remember who made it. I didn't like the cartridge but I really liked the gun and I kept it for 6 or 8 yrs. Thanks for making me think of the gun again. Larry
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Old 02-03-2014, 08:49 PM
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The CYQ's are very well made guns and collectors are staring to give them their deserved recognition.
Yours looks like a very nice example.
God bless your father and all the other vets who gave to insure our freedom.
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JcMack View Post
I had a '42 BYF. You should replace recoil and FP springs. Starting in '44 shortcuts were taken in production. My gun was full of Eagle over Swastika proof marks meaning it was tested to pressures of %20 over standard. If your gun is sans proof marks you may want to be a little careful.
Mine does indeed have the three stamps, JcMack, meaning it was test fired and passed three phases of tests. The first is a swastika over wings, the second is the Wehrmacht eagle, and the third marking is ornate but too tiny to make out without magnification, all on the right side of the slide.

~~

Once again, I'd like to say thanks to all for the thoughtful and reasoned replies. I've learned lots- a little on my own, and a lot as a result of this thread.

One of the things that pleases me is the fact that nobody has called me a dumb***** or schooled me on how foolish my question was. I smile as I write this, but it happens.

I think I have a shooter on my hands, and I'm mulling over the decision on whether to do so, or to let it rest. And I now know that if I want a similar pistol, the P-1's are readily available out there.
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
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One of the things that pleases me is the fact that nobody has called me a dumb***** or schooled me on how foolish my question was. I smile as I write this, but it happens.
I don't think I've ever seen anyone called a dumb***** on this forum, or sharply criticized for an honest question.

That's why this has been my only gun forum for the last year. Saw way too much belittling and condescension on the others.

I really envy you that fine pistol!
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Last edited by shouldazagged; 02-03-2014 at 10:43 PM.
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harley Fan View Post
Mine does indeed have the three stamps, JcMack, meaning it was test fired and passed three phases of tests. The first is a swastika over wings, the second is the Wehrmacht eagle, and the third marking is ornate but too tiny to make out without magnification, all on the right side of the slide.
And here I go again preachin to the choir
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Old 02-04-2014, 12:40 AM
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Great pistol. Mine is a newer one (~1979ish) but shoots nice. It has the thicker barrel and pin to reinforce it. You can tell by the serrations in front of the safety also it's newer and reinforced. The older ones had serrations only behind the safety. Plus the grips are plastic and different from the WWII versions. But I still like it, shoots very well.

From what I've been able to dig up it was sent to the German military but never made it out of the warehouse. Not assigned to any soldier.



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Old 02-04-2014, 09:13 AM
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As far as the markings on the right hand side of the slide..
( there are also markings on the bbl and some internals )

Check the markings out..
P.38 manufacturers and inspection stamps
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  #42  
Old 02-04-2014, 10:49 AM
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I have an unissued German Walther P1 that I never fired yet. It has the alloy frame.

I have a Swedish M40 pistol in 9mm luger too. It's very heavy.
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