Always wanted a Schofield Model 3. Got a Stoeger. Are these any good? As you can see from the pics, it looks good and seems to operate just fine. Plan on shooting it soon but I just wanted some feedback on how these reproductions really are. So far the first positive I've seen is the price and availability of product. Can't buy one if you can't find one.
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Stoeger Schofield
- Thread starter walkcubs
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ammodave
Member
Just looks like a standard Uberti Schofield. I don't think Stoeger ever produced any Schofields; they just retailed them like Navy, Taylor, etc.
forrestinmathews
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It's an Uberti. I had one in .38 for a time. Used L Frame speed loaders. The gun has some serious limitations. You cannot hold the trigger to the rear and cycle the action continuously via the hammer. The fit is such that you cannot use black powder loads in them without locking up the cylinder. I was able to tune mine to get rid of the horrid trigger. That is a delicate balancing act of tuning and grinding. The springs are all the way from Italy if you should err. I believe if I had gotten the .45 I'd still have it.
Ivan the Butcher
Member
They were made in both 45 Colt and 45 S&W (Schofield). You can shoot Schofield rounds in a Colt chamber.
As to Black Powder fouling, that has been a problem since 1873! The S&W's, Colts, Merrill & Hubert, and just about every other cartridge revolver had issues. A lot of the problem is powder quality and having enough lube UNDER the bullet. Cap and ball revolvers had the same issue, but people learned to fill the front of the cylinder with some form of grease! (Beef and sheep tallow were most common) If shooting black powder cartridges, you can dip the loaded round in Crisco before loading (in warm weather it melts and runs off, so use a 50/50 mix of Crisco/Paraffin) This works in single shot rifles also, but not lever actions!
The hinge (Top Break) action is not as strong as a top strap revolver. I is safe with all factory ammo, but for a longer life don't use the heaviest load you can. I stick to "Target" loads in my No.3 44 Russian repos! Usually anything sold as "Cowboy Action" ammo is in the light duty/target family.
Col. Schofield's modifications to the original No.3 revolver, were to help reloading during a cavalry charge. Let me know how that works out for you! Remember, you saber goes in the right hand and the revolver in the left, and the reigns in your teeth!
Ivan
As to Black Powder fouling, that has been a problem since 1873! The S&W's, Colts, Merrill & Hubert, and just about every other cartridge revolver had issues. A lot of the problem is powder quality and having enough lube UNDER the bullet. Cap and ball revolvers had the same issue, but people learned to fill the front of the cylinder with some form of grease! (Beef and sheep tallow were most common) If shooting black powder cartridges, you can dip the loaded round in Crisco before loading (in warm weather it melts and runs off, so use a 50/50 mix of Crisco/Paraffin) This works in single shot rifles also, but not lever actions!
The hinge (Top Break) action is not as strong as a top strap revolver. I is safe with all factory ammo, but for a longer life don't use the heaviest load you can. I stick to "Target" loads in my No.3 44 Russian repos! Usually anything sold as "Cowboy Action" ammo is in the light duty/target family.
Col. Schofield's modifications to the original No.3 revolver, were to help reloading during a cavalry charge. Let me know how that works out for you! Remember, you saber goes in the right hand and the revolver in the left, and the reigns in your teeth!
Ivan
Old Corp
Member
REM 3200
US Veteran
Remember, you saber goes in the right hand and the revolver in the left, and the reigns in your teeth!
Bugler, sound the Charge and we will meet again at Fiddler's Green !
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