Best all around lube and protector.

scoobysnacker · Nov 17, 2017

scoobysnacker said:
Most recently, I picked up a gallon of food-grade compressor oil (it's like Lubriplate, but a different brand). A little thicker than Ballistol, but really seems good. Even after wiping down, you feel the parts have a coat, and things seem very slick. I think as others say, everything works fine, as long as you use it.

I'm bumping this, just for fun, as an approach to meet Grant Cunningham's take on a lube/protectant.

He wrote that Lubriplate FMO 350 AW was the best in his opinion. I have bought a comparable (replacement) oil from another manufacturer, with equivalent additive packages.

USDA rated food-grade lubricants, from an online source:

Food-grade lubricants must perform the same technical functions as any other lubricant: provide protection against wear, friction, corrosion and oxidation, dissipate heat and transfer power, be compatible with rubber and other sealing materials, as well as provide a sealing effect in some cases.

In addition, different applications within the food and drugs business demand that lubricants resist degradation from food products, chemicals and water/steam, must exhibit a neutral behavior toward plastics and elastomers, and have the ability to dissolve sugars. These oils must also comply with food/health and safety regulations, as well as be physiologically inert, tasteless, odorless and internationally approved.

Lubricants can be subjected to intense environmental contaminants. A corn-milling environment generates significant dust. Although not as hard as silica-based dust, it still presents a problem for filtration. A meat plant requires stringent steam cleaning at all times, so the risk of water contamination is high. Some plants experience as much as 15 percent by volume of water in their gear oils.

Another aspect of lubrication contamination that poses a risk to food-grade lubricants is the growth of microorganisms such as bacteria, yeast and fungi. While these can be a risk in industrial environments, the opportunity for contamination in the food-production environment is even greater.

Sounds like to me, this stuff is made to work well in an environment worse than anything we would subject our guns to. H1 lubricants (like Lubriplate and the stuff I bought) are certified to be non-toxic and safe for accidental ingestion, so it won't hurt you to mess with it.

It has antiwear additives that keep compressors from grinding themselves apart, I think they can stand up to a pistol's actions. And if they can withstand the industrial environments of a food processing factory, I think they should be able to take my hands and gunpower residue.

The stuff I have (Summit FG Elite ISO 68) is thicker than Ballistol, thinner than motor oil. A drop seems to touch metal and spread, but doesn't run off. Wiping it down seems to leave a film over the metal. A month after application and then leaving the pistols unused, I find the slide rails and other contact points still wet (1 drop from an 18 gauge needle on a 10 cc syringe to each point). The slide feels more like a light grease than, say, Ballistol or Rem Oil (Ballistol being slicker than Rem Oil).

I can't speak to the current price, but I got a gallon for $30 online. I find most gun oils run $15-20 for a pint, sometimes more.

I've seen Cunningham say that some coastal agencies use Lubriplate and have no complaints.

mainegrw · Nov 17, 2017

scoobysnacker said:
I've seen Cunningham say that some coastal agencies use Lubriplate and have no complaints.

I’ve been using Lubriplate 105 in the last six months or so as my primary gun lubricant with reasonably good results. I had wanted 130A or 130AA initially, however as I had intended the use of grease as a experiment, I went with the 105 as it is available at nearly every auto parts store, and is relatively comparable to 130A with a slightly lower melting point.

My application of Lubriplate is primarily to the rails and slide on my semi-autos, with a small amount also applied to the exterior of the barrel assembly and guide rod. For all other lubrication, i.e. trigger group components, etc, I use Lucas Gun Oil (Sig’s recommended lubricant, and available at O’Reily auto parts of all places) or Hoppe’s Elite Gun Oil.

I see a noticeable difference in how smooth the slide feels when racked with the use of the grease versus the use of just gun oil. The action maintains the smooth feel for a a lot longer, and the rails don’t seem to dry out as fast (or at all), allowing a longer period between cleaning regimens on my guns. The downside is that the 105 does get a little runny when the gun gets hot, and does retain a bit of crud when used, though I still see no real adverse effects from either issue. The real challenge is in cleaning out the old grease before putting in new after shooting the gun a dozen or so times and allowing the grease liquify and run a bit. That said, I am one of those individuals who tends to over lubricate my guns, and I’ll admit I’m plenty liberal with the grease.

At the moment, I have returned to just using Lucas Gun Oil for everything, as I tend to be a bit compulsive on my gun cleaning, so the benefits of longer use between cleanings is moot, and the PITA it is to remove the old grease as well as the messy application of the new, has me thinking about sticking to just oil.

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scoobysnacker · Nov 17, 2017

I've seen pictures of guns, particularly Sigs, where it looks like the gun was dunked in bacon fat, and that was allowed to congeal. I mean, grease just glopped on like a butter knife was used to apply it.

I can't help but think that's overkill. Sigs have a good rep, you'd think they should be able to run without a couple spoonfuls of grease applied. I understand you want to lube the slide rails, since that is steel on aluminum; but that shouldn't be caked on, just my opinion. Just enough to keep the barrier protection so the steel doesn't grind down the aluminum. Internals should have a light film, but nothing to gunk up the workings.
I would think that is enough for any semiauto. Lubriplate and other food-grade oils are rated to keep a compressor running for 7000+ hrs, and provide antiwear during that time. That's more than any pistol will shoot in totality.
That stuff also has antioxidants, anti-corrosive and anti-rust additives.

I strongly suspect occasionally wiping it down to remove the crud and fouling, adding a little bit to refresh the oil film on the moving parts, would be more than any of us ever require.

I WILL keep an eye on the slide/frame on aluminum frame guns, but so far, I'm pleased.

Best all around lube and protector.

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mainegrw

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