Those extolling the virtues and benefits of such revolvers, imagine this EDC situation. You have just used your "super whiz-bang" in a shooting incident. . . . Now what?
be happy you survived? that has to be worth a few thousand
Those extolling the virtues and benefits of such revolvers, imagine this EDC situation. You have just used your "super whiz-bang" in a shooting incident. . . . Now what?
Those extolling the virtues and benefits of such revolvers, imagine this EDC situation. You have just used your "super whiz-bang" in a shooting incident. . . . Now what?
I had never heard of these but I just came across them on one persons opinion of the best .357's on the planet. The Korth was number 2 in his opinion, and I can't pronounce the winner. The S&W RM was #3. That Korth looked like a pretty fine piece of equipment though,,, anyone have any opinions or experience with the Korth revolver ? Oh, and the Korths are VERY pricey, like starting around 3K.
Those extolling the virtues and benefits of such revolvers, imagine this EDC situation. You have just used your "super whiz-bang" in a shooting incident. . . . Now what?
Not knocking your Miroku, but rarity doesn't create value. Just ask a Yugo owner.Is Korth a person, a location, or something else?
I am waiting for the day when I can sell my Miroku .38 Special revolver for $3000. I am sure there are a great many more Korth revolvers around than Mirokus.
Is Korth a person, a location, or something else?
I am waiting for the day when I can sell my Miroku .38 Special revolver for $3000. I am sure there are a great many more Korth revolvers around than Mirokus.
Is Korth a person, a location, or something else?
I am waiting for the day when I can sell my Miroku .38 Special revolver for $3000. I am sure there are a great many more Korth revolvers around than Mirokus.
My comment did not refer to intrinsic or aesthetic value. Does anyone honestly believe that an under $1000 S&W, Ruger, Kimber, or Colt in 357 Magnum, tuned as needed, would be in any way inferior at doing the job for which it is intended - that being a successful defence of you and yours? That specific set of situations is to what my reply is intended. Having a replacement or back-up of revolvers I named would be significantly less disturbing for nearly everyone when compared with having the Korth and Manhurin duplicated for the same purpose. And if your back-up piece is not another of these extremely expensive items, it's a sideways admission that you understood the intent of my reply.
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I would never have believed that "under $1000 S&W, Ruger, Kimber, or Colt in 357 Magnum" would be written to sort've stand in for "budget priced."
Don't waste your money on a new Lollar Korth. Get a used Ratzeburg model. They are two different guns. Not sure who would want a Nighthawk logo on their Korth in the first place.
Ratzeburg is the original company. Lollar is a new company. All my Korths are Ratzeburg. They may be expensive, but if want the full Korth experience, its the only way to go.
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Those extolling the virtues and benefits of such revolvers, imagine this EDC situation. You have just used your "super whiz-bang" in a shooting incident. . . . Now what?
Brian,
I disagree slightly with your expressed opinion about the Lollar Korths. They are great when it comes to fit and function. I have been to both factories, the second Ratzeburg shop and the factory in Lollar. The Lollar Korths are made on top-notch CNC machinery and are much more uniform than the hand made guns, while maintaining the mechanical advantages from the trigger roller design and roller bearing finish of the chambers. As a matter of taste, you and I both would not want accessory rails - especially on our revolvers - and prefer the hand finish of the Ratzeburg guns, which makes every piece unique.
That said, just like you I also prefer the Ratzeburg versions over the newer ones but then, I also discriminated against the SIG Sauer P210 Legend unfairly because of its CNC based production methods and favour the SIG P210.
I get it that Korth's are nice guns... and have a lot of ascriptive value as collectors items. But I'd love to see some data that measures how they are better than, for example, the S&W Mdl 686.
What steel are they made of, and why is it better than the steel used in the S&W 686?
Do they have a better design, specifically, is the lockwork stronger because xxxxx, or the mechanism that locks the cylinder better because xxxxx, or the sights better because xxxxx?
Are they manufactured with higher tolerances in fit and finish? Specifically, is the gap between the cylinder and the firing cone always xxxxx, is the blueing better because it was tested and it resists corrosion better than the 686's stainless finish, or it looks better than xxxx, etc.
Are the grips made of some special material that is better than wood, G-10, or rubber?
Are they more accurate than the Mdl 686, specifically, has anyone done a shoot-off from a Ransom rest that shows smaller groups...?
That sort of thing. I think we all get that a Rolls Royce is a nicer car than a Corolla because of a lot of reasons like they use leather and wood instead of plastic and use a lot of manhours to form it into artistic designs ... but if you want to assert that a RR is better than a Corolla and worth 10x, then I think you need to address which vehicle has the higher mean time between failure (MTBF) for its water pump, air conditioner compressor, timing chain, etc.
High end 1911s - Baer, Clark, Wilson, etc. - address both features that users tend to want but also stress accuracy (1.5 inch groups at 50 yards) in their adverts - accuracy being a desirable attribute that is measurable and able to be compared.
So what are the tangible, measurable, palpable differences between a Korth and a 686 that make the Korth worth three times as much? (I'm not suggesting they aren't there, but I would like to see someone who knows the Korths to say what they are).
I get it that Korth's are nice guns... and have a lot of ascriptive value as collectors items. But I'd love to see some data that measures how they are better than, for example, the S&W Mdl 686.
What steel are they made of, and why is it better than the steel used in the S&W 686?
Do they have a better design, specifically, is the lockwork stronger because xxxxx, or the mechanism that locks the cylinder better because xxxxx, or the sights better because xxxxx?
Are they manufactured with higher tolerances in fit and finish? Specifically, is the gap between the cylinder and the firing cone always xxxxx, is the blueing better because it was tested and it resists corrosion better than the 686's stainless finish, or it looks better than xxxx, etc.
Are the grips made of some special material that is better than wood, G-10, or rubber?
Are they more accurate than the Mdl 686, specifically, has anyone done a shoot-off from a Ransom rest that shows smaller groups...?
That sort of thing. I think we all get that a Rolls Royce is a nicer car than a Corolla because of a lot of reasons like they use leather and wood instead of plastic and use a lot of manhours to form it into artistic designs ... but if you want to assert that a RR is better than a Corolla and worth 10x, then I think you need to address which vehicle has the higher mean time between failure (MTBF) for its water pump, air conditioner compressor, timing chain, etc.
High end 1911s - Baer, Clark, Wilson, etc. - address both features that users tend to want but also stress accuracy (1.5 inch groups at 50 yards) in their adverts - accuracy being a desirable attribute that is measurable and able to be compared.
So what are the tangible, measurable, palpable differences between a Korth and a 686 that make the Korth worth three times as much? (I'm not suggesting they aren't there, but I would like to see someone who knows the Korths to say what they are).