1911 Series 80 firing pin block removal

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Yesterday I was working on my 1911 pistols, tweaking some newly installed sear springs slightly to improve trigger pull let off. My Springfield Armoury and EEA Witness Custom .45 were fairly straightforward but my Kimber Stainless Target II 9mm was a different story.

I was able to get a reasonable and crisp trigger let off but it is definately heavier than my .45’s by at least 1.5 Ib, maybe a it more. I reached the point where the spring was too light and the hammer started to occasionally follow the slide down when released from fully locked with the slide lever, so I bent the sear spring leaf forward again until it stopped doing so.

All three pistols have had light internal polishing with the hammer hooks honed to .020” height. I do not want to take the hooks down any further as I feel that would make the pistol unsafe.

The Kimber has the Series 80 firing pin block whereas the others are Series 70. I have heard that removing the firing pin block will lighten the trigger noticibly.

I can obtain the replacement spacer locally, however when I polished up the sear replacing it in the frame with the firing pin block actuator was not as straightforward as installing the Series 70 sear/disconnector assembly is. I can’t now recall just how I installed it (lining up the sear, disconnector and firing pin block holes correctly). I do know it took me a long time.

So before I go and order in the spacer is removing the Series 80 firing pin block worth it and will it improve the trigger to near that of my Series 70 pistols?
 
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Kimber is NOT a Series 80.. It is the Swartz safety.

The mechanism is operated by the grip safety, nothing to do with trigger pull.

I have removed the FP block in my Kimbers because I changed the timing on the grip safety(as soon as I touch it) and it messes with the FP block timing.
 
I bought a cheap ($600 new) Kimber Custom II with Schwartz safety and it had an absolutely perfect 3-1/2 lb pull from the factory and to me that seemed to be the best way to design a firing pin safety so there is no linkage with the trigger to hamper it. Kimber use to be about the top name in 1911s but I heard their quality and service has gone down a bit.
 
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I bought a cheap ($600 new) Kimber Custom II with Schwartz safety and it had an absolutely perfect 3-1/2 lb pull from the factory and to me that seemed to be the best way to design a firing pin safety so there is no linkage with the trigger to hamper it. Kimber use to be about the top name in 1911s but I heard their quality and service has gone down a bit.

Thanks guys. I didn't know about the Schwartz safety.

My trigger now is in the 3.5-4 Ib range, much better than the 5-6 Ib range quoted from the factory that it came with. If this were a carry gun it would be perfect.

Unfortunately we cannot carry in Kiwiland. This is a competition gun only. I have recently chronographed three Kimber Stainless II 9mm pistols for other competitors (all Pillipino shooters from Wellington, coincidentally. They seem to really like this pistol) and the triggers on those guns are down in the 2.5-3 Ib range I have on my .45 ACP 1911's. I suspect that the hammer hooks and sears have been filed down a bit too much or the sear spring tweaked too far, as at least one of these guns appeared to be "double firing" a few weeks ago (the shooter claimed to be pulling the trigger really fast but both myself and the R/O questioned this at the time. I once had occasional "double discharges" on my SA .45 with the sear spring too light. Cost me a North Island competition medal).

I can live with the trigger as it is. it would have been nice to get it down below 3 Ib for speed events but not at the cost of safety.

Just shows that it always pays to ask before doing :D:D:D
 
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Search the 1911 forums to be sure, but I remember the Schwartz safety can be defeated by using a GI style firing pin.
 
Sounds like you need to fit some competition parts (Sear, hammer, trigger/sear spring, etc.) if they are available down under.
Lightening trigger weight can also be a matter of careful polishing stuff:
Trigger side rail surfaces
Disconnector/trigger rail surfaces
Sear engagement surfaces and sides
Disconnector spring/disconnector surfaces
You know that for competition small tweaks matter. I don't shoot competition but I have built the guns for it.
 
Sounds like you need to fit some competition parts (Sear, hammer, trigger/sear spring, etc.) if they are available down under.
Lightening trigger weight can also be a matter of careful polishing stuff:
Trigger side rail surfaces
Disconnector/trigger rail surfaces
Sear engagement surfaces and sides
Disconnector spring/disconnector surfaces
You know that for competition small tweaks matter. I don't shoot competition but I have built the guns for it.

I fitted EGW parts soon after getting the pistol.

And I went through everything and polished up all those areas you mention. I spent quite a lot of time on the trigger bar surfaces/sides and the sides of the sear, disconnector and hammer. That was how I got the trigger pull down from the factory 5 - 6 Ib to 3.5 - 4 Ib.

I am a big believer in removing only a little metal at a time. Having said that this afternoon I removed the sear (very carefully so as not to dislodge the safety firing pin block) and gave it another very light hone with a diamond knife sharpener and my Ed Brown sear jig. I also gave the hammer hooks an even lighter polish with some valve grinding paste and a clean rag.

The result is better, around the 3 Ib mark, and I will not take it any further.

The funny thing is the Tanfoglio EEA Witness Custom .45 was around 2/3 of the price of the Kimber yet the internal parts required much less polishing and the trigger is even better than 3 Ib.
 
I'm not comfortable with a 1911 that has a trigger pull of less than 3.5 pounds. Too much danger of the hammer following and turning the pistol into a full-auto pistol, at least in my opinion.
Back in my IPSC/USPSA days, my 1911 had a 3.5 pound trigger pull, but everyone who tried it swore it was no more than 3 pounds at most. It measured a full 3.5 pounds on a scale, it was simply a matter of using properly stoned and polished fire control parts (trigger, hammer, sear, and disconnector).
 
Just want to say, you guys are really awesome to be able to tear down a pistol and do that magic on triggers, springs, etc. on the 1911 or any other gun for that matter. My basement floor has just eaten another recoil spring cap. Just a simple cleaning after taking it out the other day. Almost took my ear off! That's two now. I just ordered 3 more. Give me a refrigeration system in a frozen food storage warehouse or a chiller for a high school & I'm good to go! I will never even attempt what yinz do. That 1911 of mine is my enemy! I will never field-strip it again if I ever get it back together again!
 
Field stripping the 1911 is pretty easy and requires no tools, unless you have a full-length recoil spring guide or a barrel that does not use a barrel bushing at the muzzle end. Those two things, in my opinion, complicate the 1911 and change it from a battle ready handgun to a strictly range handgun.
 
Field stripping the 1911 is pretty easy and requires no tools, unless you have a full-length recoil spring guide or a barrel that does not use a barrel bushing at the muzzle end. Those two things, in my opinion, complicate the 1911 and change it from a battle ready handgun to a strictly range handgun.
Just use the mags baseplate front to depress the spring, I never use the wrench.
 
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