Anything to be done for sanded checkering on refinished rifle stocks?

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Oscar Zulu

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I have a couple of older Winchesters that I bought with refinished wood. Probably why they were affordable to me at the time. A model 70 in .300 H and H and a first year 71. The checkering is still there...kind of. I also have another that has spent a lot of time in a scabbard with the finish on the back of the stock thin or missing, however the checkering is intact.
Is there anyone that specializes in both recutting the checkering and refinishing the stocks to a similar finish as they would have come from the factory?

Thanks,

Oscar Zulu
 
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I’m sure there are many options out there. If you are looking for a quality refinish and refurb of checkering, brace yourself for sticker schock. It’s easier in most ways to finish a new stock vs. refurbishing an old stock. If you want to go all out, Wyoming Armory in Cody, WY or Johnson Sporting Goods in Adrian, MI can give you about anything you want done within reason. I’m sure there are many other options out there. Good luck!
 
Sycamore Hill Designs in Victor, NY Link has done excellent work for me in the past. Ask for Frank. Your best bet might be for them to strip the wood and recut the checkering so that you can refinish it yourself if you are so inclined.
 
I am sure there are lots of places that can freshen up checkering probably won't be cheap. I had thought about learning to checker stocks once never took the plunge though. Good luck with your projects.
 
I had a Krag that Bubba cut down to carbine size and then tried to checker the forearm and pistol grip with a hacksaw. Gun was good, stock was a disaster.

So I bought a whole bunch of sandpaper (and a small round hand finishing sander), created a small mountain of sawdust, and then refinished with one of Birchwood Casey's three part refinishing kits and I had a decent looking stock. Not factory new or custom, but I never had to hang my head at the range. You might consider that as a way to go if you don't want a professional, professional job.
 
I was facing the same problem and bought a Dembart checkering tool set and some extra cutters after counting how many lines per inch I had. Recutting checkering is easier than cutting new checkering and as long as the cutting tool is sharp, it is fairly easy to do.
 
If that 300 H&H is pre 64, the guys and gals in Washington at pre64win.com have created a huge business in the pre 64 Winchester Model 70 guns and provide services to refinish or restore your gun to original condition. In todays 2021 dollars, nothing out there is going to be cheap if you hire it done by someone. The people in Washington also sell stocks, both refurbished and in original condition, which would be an alternate to consider. They deal in pre 1964 only so your 1971 gun would not fit their product line.
 
Oscar Zulu, I have seen photos of checkering done by "Custom Checkering by Sherry Abraham" in Oregon. Her website is quite informational, with photos of some of her work, prices, and specifically mentions re-cutting old worn checkering. Were I in the market, I think I'd give her a call...
 
I consider myself a fair hand with tools (cabinet and furniture maker for over 20 years) but re-cutting/freshening checkering is the most frustrating thing I've ever done. Actually I should say "tried to do". I can't even imagine doing it from scratch.

If you want to try it yourself get a cheap gun of some sort and practice before you try it on something like a Winchester.

A good smith will make it look great and I don't think the price would be outrageous. A nice gun deserves some TLC.
 
My stocks I redid. The stock on the left is a 7 mm Mauser stock, the one on the right is a m14 stock from Fred’s.
 

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How bad are your stocks ? Pics? Then I can tell you how to redo them. Some stocks I don’t strip or sand, I try not too.
 
Doing the work yourself is not that difficult. it just takes patience and going slow at first.

Here's a set of Herrett grips I bought that someone had sanded to make a relief for a speed loader. I recut the border and checkering...it was my first time out and it wasn't too difficult at all.

Before:
SItdI07l.jpg


After:
BOKoTybl.jpg


A stock finish with thinned or worn finish doesn't necessarily need to be completely refinished, I have stocks where all I needed to do is apply some Tru-oil to the existing finish, which was an oil type finish, and it blended in nicely.

I believe in starting out with a minimalist approach, too many people jump right to a "scorch the earth" approach... chemical strip and refinish, when a "refresh" of an existing finish is all that's needed.

As BigBill said, post some pics.

I see that your location is the Sac Valley, I'm in the Delta, if were close, I'd be glad to take a look at what you have... maybe even bring my checkering tools.
 
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I have done touch up work with NICS in the finish we’re the bare wood is showing the finish is gone. Using steelwool over the whole stock not removing all the finish. Then I make the area around the nic or scratch level with the finish then apply the proper color stain to the nic area they apply tounge oil. My stocks that will see the weather get multiple coats with 0000 steelwool between coats. The last coat you can dull it, then wax it or leave it.

Don’t rush take it slow the best finish is doing the best prep job.

On military stocks I leave some of the history marks, you can steam out deep nicks and scrtaches if need be. I can’t make a silk purse out of a sows ear but it will look better.
 
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I’ve refreshed a worn set of 1st series woodsman grips using single and double line cutters that I built handles for. But the grips were easy as the checkering goes from edge to edge-top to bottom—no borders. Go slow and be consistent with the amount of pressure to have uniform diamonds.
 
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