A lady I worked with inherited a 99 Savage .300 and asked me to give her a value on it as she might sell it if relatives don’t want it. I believe it is a 99EG model with checkered stock made around 1953. It’s in very good-excellent condition with really nice original bluing and case colors on the lever. Gun looks like it wasn’t used a lot, mostly stored in a case. No rust or corrosion and a clean barrel with strong rifling. All factory original. Anyone have an idea what it might be worth if she would decide to sell it?? Thanks!

I'd guesstimate it in the $700 to $800 in the condition you described. At least down here in the southern part of your state

Thanks! I told her around $750-850 and I wouldn’t take any less than $750 so we’re close. Too nice of a gun and I think she could get that out of it if she is patient.

That is one of the all time favorites in the thick timber, for deer hunting in the upper East US of A.

Fast, light and accurate are three things that it has going for it.
It might not be tapped out of the factory for a scope and it might not have
a round counted on the bottom left side but it's on many a hunters dream list.

$800 minimum.

I assume from the above estimates that there is a following for these older Savage rifles. A guy sold put a bunch of their more modern models in an auction at Pahrump a few years back and took quite a bath as I recall.

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Release the Kraken

Pics would really be helpful!

The Savage 99 is as American as baseball, apple pie and Chevrolet. The R and EG in 300 Savage were produced in the highest numbers and are plentiful. However, the value of guns of that ilk, e.g., vintage Marlins, Pre64 Winchesters, Smiths, Colts, etc., continue to rise. There's a certain je ne sais quois old school craftsmanship exudes that can't be replicated by current manufacturing methods or through the use of plastic. $700+ for that 99 is reality, much more for the more scarce models and chamberings like 358 Win, 284 Win, 38-55.

For Savage 99s, I have:
1899 in 30-30, originally 303 Savage
99 RS .300 Savage (1941, as new)
99 Brush Gun .358 Win (unfired)

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213th FBINA

If you find the right person value around here could top $800. Hard core Savage collectors snap them up.

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Hue 68 noli me tangere

I’m no expert on Savage 99’s, but I do have a couple. They’re great rifles and the .300 Savage cartridge is an excellent deer round. Here’s what I think I know about them.

You can date post-war Savage 99’s up to the late 60’s by the letter code on the front of the receiver lever boss. It will be in a little square with a one or two digit number.
A = 1949
B = 1950
C = 1951
Etc…

I’ve been told that you can approximate the date of guns with six digit serial numbers (no letter prefix) by the first two digits of the serial number. 320,000 = 1932, 390,000 = 1939, 520,000 = 1952.
It generally gets you within about 3 or 4 years of the actual date.

The grade is often stamped on the front of the receiver, under the forearm.

Factory drilled guns had the savage logo stamped on the left side of the front bridge. Non-drilled guns had the logo on the top of the front bridge.

These are the only two I currently own, an odd EG in 300 Savage and a 99H Barrel Band Carbine in .250-3000. I'm pretty sure we like pictures here!



The EG is serial # 408,XXX which comes back as 1941 on look-up sites. It has inletted sling loops, a metal forearm reinforcement and Stith no-drill mounts. I don’t know if the loops and reinforcement are factory or custom work. I’ve been told that Savage did some strange things near WWII.





The 99H is serial number (365,XXX) and comes back as 1937.
It’s a standard configuration gun, but in fabulous condition!





I’d appreciate any additional info on these!

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"I also cook."

Great looking guns Chad!

I've lusted over an older 99 for many years, but the right one has not come my way yet when I can actually swing buying it.

There are many models and calibers available in the 99. What you have is the most common model in the most common chambering. The fact it is so common makes it worth less than more rare variations.

There is a reason it is the most common. If a better deer rifle exists, I am not aware of it.

In the condition you describe, and in today’s market, I wouldn’t part with it for less than $800.

Price notwithstanding, what's the right one?

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213th FBINA

This is my 1952 EG in 300 Savage. The rifle your looking at if a ‘53 will look like this. It won’t be drilled and tapped. But if you need a scope on it there are ways around that.
A Lightfoot mount is the best modern way. It uses the existing holes for the tang sight and the dovetail for the rear sight. Very similar to s&wchad’s Stith mount on his beautiful 99.
In the condition you state it would be worth $800 today, maybe more. It is a classic that is not made anymore and in my opinion worth every penny.

i like the savage 99 and the stith scope. i have all the scope equiment, but my favorite 99 is a "take down", can it be drilled for a common scope ?

I have two 99's, a .30-30 carbine manufactured in 1909 and a EG in .300 Savage from 1953 that was factory drilled and tapped for a scope. Below is a picture of the carbine.http://smith-wessonforum.com/attachm...1&d=1633709723

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The Chicopee Savages tend to bring a little less $$ than the Utica Savages, but that may be changing presently. I am partial to Utica Savages. I was born and raised in Utica, and my grandmother lived next door to the president of Savage, Fred Hickey. My great uncle assembled Tommy guns at Savage.

S&W Chad: I believe your Stith EG is factory original as I have seen sling loops like that before on 99s (caveat.. I’m not a Savage expert). Is the metal reinforcement part of the forend sling loop setup?

OP: the prices suggested by others here seem in line with what I would expect it to sell for.

I just sold 99EG , 1950 manf in 250/3000 for $1K. Later models of 99 with box mags are less. Mostly get 300s and 303 Sav.

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The steel reinforcement is attached to the forearm with screws and engages the front of the receiver, but it’s not attached to the sling eye. I suspect it was done to reinforce the forearm attachment, because of the extra load on it when carrying the rifle with a sling.

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"I also cook."

Basically, SS336's shown above.

I would love to find an excellent condition immediate post-war EG, not drilled and tapped, and not with a cracked stock at the tang like I see so often. I'd like to have a tang sight for it, with an original buttplate, in .300 Savage or .250-3000. I would be happy with that.

If I could find a pre-war G, that would be even better.

I am not very familiar with all the versions and variations, which is one reason I have not pulled the trigger yet, but I would prefer a Schnabel fore end and a pistol grip stock, and condition is important to me for this particular gun.

The high grade and two barrel versions are neat, but I don't think I would spend the money collectors want for one, I would rather spend the money for an excellent to mint condition EG or G.

I agree with a finding a nice pre war 250-3000, especially a nice K.

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213th FBINA

Great rifles. here's mine in 300 Savage, found in a local gun shop a few years back.

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OGCA Member.

I could only get $400 for one I inherited, back in 2018.

The case coloring you guys are showing is amazing!
Larry

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Miss Buddies crsides & fat tom

Just a couple of odds & ends -

The belly of the receiver tends to get worn, it's a great carrying point. A rear aperture sight can add a few bucks (in the field as well as the bank, now that I think of it …) as they aren't cheap. And believe it or not some folks don't notice that a rifle may be a takedown type. I picked up a 1918 made in 30 WCF from a LGS and when I started taking it down to put in a case they looked at me like I was a bit off. Easy to miss I suppose.

A very simple rifle. Anything that may need a bit of fixing can be done, even the dreaded spool.

Thanks all! At the present I’m not sure what she wants to do with it, either sell or give to a relative I guess?? I told her I might be interested if she decides to sell it. If it was mine I probably wouldn’t take less than $800 for it. We’ll see what happens??

A Take-Down 99 can be D&T'd for a standard scope mount that fits the front ring and top tang of the rec'v.
Either a one piece mount or 2 piece separate bases.
When you D&T one of these earlier ones, you will be cutting through the Savage marking on top of the front recv'r ring.
That's why Savage moved the marking to the left wall in the mid 50's when they started factory D&T'ing the 99.

The rear base is usually set just forward of the cocking indicator pin on th top of the tang. That places the front mounting screw for that rear base very close to the back edge of the bolt/frame engagement surface.
That surface is actually the locking area and is spot hardened.
Sometimes there can be a problem drill close to there. Tapping 6-48 even more of a problem.
Moving the base back and actually covering that cocking indicator pin isn't a bad idea. Make a shallow cut in the underside of the base block for it to function(out of sight) allows the scope mount block to be placed rearward a bit more. Or you can simply remove the indicator by knocking the pin out and taking it out once the stock is off the frame.

Make sure if you move the scope block back that the block is the proper heigth for that position as it will need a bit extra as the tang slopes rearward and down.


Also make sure on the front ring that the scope base mounting screws don't extend all the way through the ring and into the bbl threads.

The holes can be drilled and threaded straight through,,though the better 'smith will do the holes as 'blind' so they don't show inside the threaded ring when the bbl is off.

If they do extend straight through, make sure that the actual mounting screws fall short of extending into the bbl threads. They can lock the TD bbl into place like set screws and also refuse to properly tighten the front mounting base depending on how long they are.


>>>>>
Here's a TD Mode 99 in 300S that has been D&T'd in the past. It now has filler screws in place but you can still see the outline of the old scope bases.

This guy has had a hard hunting life. The cartridge guide on the nose of the bolt is broken off, but it still feed perfectly fine.
The magazine rotor was frozen into place and there were attemps to get it freed up by the use of screwdriver blades, jack knife and other implements.
That took some delicate metal reforming, polishing and filing on the brass rotor to get it back to work.
All because of what appeared to be dried up Linseed oil,,lots of it,,down in the action, rotor,,inside the rotor,,everywhere.




This one was D&T with blind holes in the front ring



Cartridge guide broken off the front of the bolt,,still works OK.

vinn said...
As stated by 2152, yes the receiver can be drilled and tapped but Vinn, if your rifle is in real good shape and not refinished, realize that you will reduce it's collector value by at least $200.
I've owned two 99s. Both were made in the early fifties. One had an aftermarket recoil pad added and the other was drilled and tapped for scope mounts. I bought them for $350 and $450 because of the modifications at a time when nice, unaltered models of the same type and era were going for $650+.

John

I’ve been selling off my rifles. I had a brand new in the box Lyman tang
for 99s. Just let it go for $200 in box. Seeing well used ones going for that.

I own an inherited M99 in .300, came from my Grandfather, c.late '40's.

There's FB pages dedicated to the M99 - lots of good info there and some very knowledgeable guys.
They're great rifles.

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Ret'd LEO
SWCA #2275

I've got two, one from 1941 and the other from 1946. I have tang peeps on both of them and they're very accurate.

Tell us more about your favorite take-down 99.
It it’s unaltered and in nice condition, drilling it for a scope mount would be a really bad idea. Extra holes on a collectible gun can slash the value in half.

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"I also cook."

I would avoid D&T any orig rifle especially if it would deface a mfg logo or marking. There's just too many already in circulation already with that done if you want to go that route. Or just buy a later 50's and forward mfg that is factory D&T'd and the log/mfg name was moved to the left wall of the recv'r.

Old D&T holes can be filled and markings recut. Then the area re-blued. I've done a lot of them.
But no sense in turning out any more needing fixing some time in the future.
The D&T does hurt the value of a nice otherwise orig rifle.
But the old 'It's your rifle, you do what you want with it' still applies.

The last Sav 99 I filled holes on was about a 1952 300Sav .
Bought it for $100 at a gun show.
Wood was exc as was the bore.
The problem was that the frame had 9 extra D&T holes in it. A real Swiss Cheese project.

I filled them all and polished & refinished the metal. Cold Rust blued.
It's doing White Tail duty now but the present owner is starting to see the need for a scope sighted rifle and doesn't want to go back and D&T the gun all over again,,,my thoughts exactly!

Maybe another trade in the works and I'll get it back again.

My only current 99 is an 1899 Model C Grade in 30-30. 1/2 oct/rd bbl.
Nice Tang sight, 2 leaf folding bbl sight and orig front sight
(I think they called the front sight style a 'Jack Sight').

Not much finish left, but the bore is exc and it shoots great. Maybe a candidate for turning it into a G&H style pistol grip sporter.

Both of mine were D/T and I wish they never had been. That only for collectors' sake. For hunting for eyes my age, a scope is nearly essential. I had one on one of mine, it shot well, about an inch or so. The .300 Savage is an excellent hunting round, slightly below the .308.

Ever since I was a kid I wanted a 99. When I ran up on these, I jumped on them.