Savage Model 24C-DL Question

I recently acquired a early Savage Model 24C-DL combination gun.
The upper barrel is .22 WMR and the lower barrel is .410 Ga. 3".
The research I have conducted has only turned up this model chambered in .22WMR/.22 LR & .20 Ga. Anyone care to elaborate on this oddity? It is pre-serial number requirements.

It’s not an oddity, many 22mg/ 410 were manf in 60s. The original has side select on left side and solid barrels. Next series dropped side select to flipper on hammer. Next step was separated barrels at which point I separated from Savage 24s of all series. The original series is most sought after by hunters in this area. They will go as far to accept what we call the transition model with solid barrels and hammer select. You can’t give away separated barrel models. Their reputation for poor accuracy precedes them.
The point of aim between rifle & shotgun isn’t practical on a high percentage of them. Especially the 22magnum models.

This one appears to have a nickel/hard chrome receiver. Picture of a fox on one side and a pheasant on the other. The barrels look to be soldered together. The stock and forend are checkered. Has the barrel selector button on the lower right side of the receiver. Bore in both barrels are in excellent condition.

I have 3 of the model 24's. I have a Camper which is 22/20 with 20" barrels.

Also a 357/20, a higher grade model with white spacers and made of checkered Black Walnut.

And a very plane-jane 30-30/20

My old brother got his first gun for Christmas 1964, a 22/410. He traded it away in the early 70's and laments over it every time he sees one!

Ivan

This is one of the deluxe models with nicer wood and the nickel (chrome?) plated receiver. These have gotten fairly expensive in the past few years and it would be fun to see how well it shoots, if you can find .22 WMR ammo.

OPs Sav 24 is an early gun in the series. The 1st series had the select on right side of receiver. Next series same except selector moved to left side. Parts hard to come by, been putting hammer select in place of selector on older models. Saving parts for otherwise hi condition guns.
There has been slight trend away from 410 models because of ammo situation.

I bought one of these in the mid 70's, 22lr/410. Never have I seen anything from any factory with such right out of the box deplorable accuracy. with iron sights or a scope I could not get it near the target. Piece of junk. My first and last Savage

A gunshop in Columbus had one around 1980 that was 222/12, the shop owner refused to sell it to me! He said it was so inaccurate it was dangerous! That was a Savage model with the free floating barrels.

In the 1990's I had an early model that had the trip on the hammer, but the action break was a lever on the side! I think it was a Stevens. It was 22Mag/20 and the rifle barrel would noy grout small than 6" @ 50 yards with any ammo of the 6 verities I tried!

Ivan

In late 80s Savage was circling the bowl. They sent some real junk to market. They quit supporting warranty parts and paying warranty station labor costs. The Savage 24 series were total **** and last 99s were too.
Out of about a dozen 223/12s everyone came back with serious problems.
I don’t rember selling any new Savages other than 24s and very few other models, their reputation was taking a hard hit. They sure fielded another junker with their new o/U, m43?

Drm50 said:

It’s not an oddity, many 22mg/ 410 were manf in 60s. The original has side select on left side and solid barrels. Next series dropped side select to flipper on hammer. Next step was separated barrels at which point I separated from Savage 24s of all series. The original series is most sought after by hunters in this area. They will go as far to accept what we call the transition model with solid barrels and hammer select. You can’t give away separated barrel models. Their reputation for poor accuracy precedes them.
The point of aim between rifle & shotgun isn’t practical on a high percentage of them. Especially the 22magnum models.

Click to expand...

I have to of them thst came with with the side selector buttons. Bought two replacement hammers over 45 years ago with the selector mounted on the hammer to reduce the chance of firing the wrong barrel by mistake. You can tell by feel alone with the replacement hammers when cocking to shoot if the selector is set for the barrel you want to fire.
The side selector buttons are still on the guns. I do not remember if I removed an internal part from the buttons on the inside of the action or not. All I know is that i have not moved either of the buttons in over 30 years and they do not interdere with anything.
The whole side button selector design is very unsafe and should be de-activated like mine are.

smoothshooter said:

I have to of them thst came with with the side selector buttons. Bought two replacement hammers over 45 years ago with the selector mounted on the hammer to reduce the chance of firing the wrong barrel by mistake. You can tell by feel alone with the replacement hammers when cocking to shoot if the selector is set for the barrel you want to fire.
The side selector buttons are still on the guns. I do not remember if I removed an internal part from the buttons on the inside of the action or not. All I know is that i have not moved either of the buttons in over 30 years and they do not interdere with anything.
The whole side button selector design is very unsafe and should be de-activated like mine are.

Click to expand...

I have my granddaddy's Stevens .22/.410 that he bought at the beginning of WW II to keep the bunny wabbits out of his garden. This one has the plastic Tenite stock and forearm and the side barrel selector. There have been a few times when I was young that I fired the .410 barrel when I meant to fire the .22 barrel, but the gun was always pointed in a safe direction, so I don't consider it unsafe.

smoothshooter said:

I have to of them thst came with with the side selector buttons. Bought two replacement hammers over 45 years ago with the selector mounted on the hammer to reduce the chance of firing the wrong barrel by mistake. You can tell by feel alone with the replacement hammers when cocking to shoot if the selector is set for the barrel you want to fire.
The side selector buttons are still on the guns. I do not remember if I removed an internal part from the buttons on the inside of the action or not. All I know is that i have not moved either of the buttons in over 30 years and they do not interdere with anything.
The whole side button selector design is very unsafe and should be de-activated like mine are.

Click to expand...

You are just as liable to walk out in your yard and get hit with a piece of space junk, even with a tin foil hat. In my area I know dozens of people who own old model 24s. Grandfathers & fathers arm the kids with them. Perfect gun for small game, varmits and birds. Very few have selector trouble and it kills them if they have to go to hammer select.

Sometime in the 80s I had a 24 .22 LR/20. It had the barrel selector on the hammer. It worked OK for the 20 barrel, but firing was very unreliable on the .22 barrel, about 50%. And after a lot of looking, I could not figure out what the problem was. So I sold it quickly to give someone else the chance to have some fun in determining the cause of the .22 barrel problem. Too bad, I wanted to keep it for my son who was about 13 at the time.

I had a .22/410 with a Tennite (?) stock. Whatever the plastic stocks were called. It was lightweight. I held on to it for a month and then sold it.

I have a waiting list for old models in 22/410 & 22/20g. 1st one that answers gets it. The old models are as hard to come by as the new models are to get rid of. They don’t have to be the deluxe model to be desirable.
The 410/410 is the hardest one to find.

I have a 24DL in .22LR/.410 that looks exactly like the one in Post #3. I bought it used a few years ago because I had a press (Duomatic) that could load .410 but no .410 firearm of any kind. It's in pretty good shape with nice wood. The .22LR barrel is extremely accurate with the iron sights. To hit with the shotgun barrel I need to cant the gun and hold the front bead over the top of the right edge of the rear sight. This is basically a small game and pest gun so it is certainly up to those tasks. I'm currently loading Magtech brass shotshells to combat the .410 ammo crisis and so far that is working out surprisingly well.

I also have a 24F .30-30/12 Gauge that I bought what seems like a long time ago. It has a black synthetic stock and forend and the metal is finished with a black paint. It doesn't look as nice as the DL but that .30-30 barrel is extremely accurate. Of course the shotgun barrel shoots low but this one is right on for windage. It's a heavy contraption but extremely versatile. I like it. I remember years ago looking in the Shotgun News and seeing a side by side 10 Gauge with .500 Nitro Express barrel underneath. I really wanted one of those but unfortunately had to settle for the Savages instead.

Can somebody please explain the difference between the solid and separated barrels and the manufacturing process? And I always wondered why the European combo guns have the shotgun barrel on top.

The lighter recoil barrel is supposed to be further away from the hinge pin. (Think 22 over 410) In Europe the larger centerfire rifles had more recoil so they were in line with the hinge pin. In the US, I think it was tradition that kept the rifle on top.

Ivan

Over the years I have read several articles about Zoli combo guns. The most common post war guns seem to be either 6.5x55R or 6.5x57R Over 12 gauge. I usually sit after finishing reading and just bask in the afterglow. I don't even smoke and still desire a cigarette.

My first gun was a Savage 24 22/20 that my parents gave me for Christmas in 1969. I still have it.
Great memories of walking fence rows in Kentucky with my Dad hunting rabbits. I also used it hunting squirrels.
Since then I’ve acquired 2 more Savage 24s. I love ‘em.