I have a Rock Island Armory officer's model 1911- 45 ACP caliber that has a broken extractor and needs to be replaced. In researching new ones, I had no idea there were so many different ones available. Ed Brown is one that has good reviews and I've also read that Wilson is another quality one. RIA also offers extractors on their website, and maybe that's the one I should go with?
I understand that this is not just a "drop-in' part and must be fitted.
Are there other extractors you would recommend, and an estimate about what I should expect to pay a gunsmith for this?
Thanks for all suggestions.
Buckshot Bill

Buckshot, Lots of good ones available, but one I've used in .45s, 9s, and .38 Supers is the Ed Brown. The EBs I used required no fitting/tweaking/adjusting at all, and have never failed. Whatever extractor you decide on, try it out first before you let some "gunsmith" go "fitting" it...

ETA, At a training I attended put on by a nationally known instructor and gunsmith, he insisted the extractor in my Government Model Colt was too loose and "adjusted" it. I'd been carrying this Colt on duty for years, with never a failure. Upon return to the firing like, I didn't get through the first magazine without feedway malfunctions due to the extractor being adjusted too tight. Replaced the extractor with a spare, "too loose" one I had. Function returned to 100%, and has been 100% since.

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NRA Life, COTEP 640

Most any quality extractor will do fine. I like Wilson parts, but as mentioned EB is good as well.
They don't need to be fitted, but may need a little adjustment. Quick and easy to do by yourself. Several videos on YouTube will show you how.

I would probably go with an RIA part, the theory would be they would probably make the one that would require the least amount of (if any) additional fitting since it would be wasted time on their assembly line and slow things down

I've replaced 2 extractor in the last 30 years on 1911's. Both were Colt parts on to used Colt pistols that I picked up, and I didn't have to do any fitting.

Thanks guys. Great info and based on what y'all have said, gives me confidence to try and put it in and see if it'll run ok with out an expensive trip to a gunsmith. The prices I've been quoted to "fit" one have been between $ 50 and $ 70 dollars.
Much obliged,
BB

i would go with one from a maker like Ed Brown or Wilson. And look for one that already had the bevel at the bottom of the cut for the hook and looked like it had been polished or at least is smooth and wasn't a cheap casting. After that, the only fitting is to check the tension and also make sure it is a tight fit at the rear with the firing pin stop to prevent the extractor from "clocking".

FWIW, on the 1911 a forum a master 1911 Smith has a very simple, easy to understand and easy to do instal/ fit. In my 60 years around Colt 1911s and a few WWII A-1s only had to fit a replacement extractor. Guess I have 8-10 in my parts box.

I've used Ed Brown and Wilson parts over the years.

Both are good.

Wilson Combat. Installing and tuning an extractor is certainly something you can do yourself.

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Life Is A Gift. Defend it!

Guess I am a hoarder. I am still using surplus government extractors. Stock piled a fair amount of parts and haven't had to use any (knock on wood).

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

Many of the alleged experts don’t understand how a 1911 works in terms of the interplay between type of magazine lip, the bullet length and point shape, the feed ramp, and the extractor.

If you are shooting ball rounds with a GI tapered lip magazine, the magazine feed lips allow the base of the bullet to slowly rise in conjunction with the bullet sliding up the feed ramp. The end result is a very smooth feed cycle that is singer sewing machine smooth, and a low angle of the rim that will slip into a snug fitting extractor.

With the more common Colt commercial/Hybrid feed lip magazines, the base of the case is held down a bit longer to allow a shorter flat point or hollow point bullet to reach and start to rise up the feed ramp. That prevents the round from nose diving into the feed ramp. At the same time it still allows a longer round nosed round to enter the chamber at a low enough feed angle to not jam itself into the top of the chamber or the gap between barrel and slide. But the steeper case angle requires a little more space between the extractor and slide face. If it’s too tight the rim will jam between the extractor and slide face and cause the slide to stop about 1/8” out of battery.

With a parallel lip “wad cutter” magazine designed to feed short, lightweight semi wad cutters, the base of the case is held down longer and then pops up in front of the slide face. That lets the short round start to come up the feed ramp and again prevent a nose dive into the feed ramp. Long round nose bullets will however often have too steep an angle and jam into the top of the chamber or worse into the space between the barrel and slide. It’s a jam that requires dropping the mag and cycling the action. With this magazine type the extractor needs to either be a bit looser to allow for the steeper cartridge and rim angle, or it needs to be relieved enough to snap over the rim as it rises up out of the magazine.

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Unfortunately many of the self appointed experts immediately go straight to messing with the extractor without considering the magazine and bullet types being used.

I can honestly say in over 50 years of using and building M1911's that I have only ever changed one extractor and that one still worked, but had a chip in it.

Not to sure about the feeding case interface with the extractor. I was taught to make my M1911's feed empty cases. Because if it will feed an empty case, the gun will feed any configuration bullet.

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

Never had any difficulty in using plain old GI extractors. I did repair a Llama extractor (much like the Colt's) that had a broken claw by arc welding a new tip and shaping it with a Dremel tool and file. It worked fine.

I'm going to agree with BB57, with ammo other than ball ammo and magazines that follow the original M1911 design, there can be more to it than a simple parts swap. Some fitting and adjustment may be required. USGI extractors are good quality as they were made according to the original design specification, specifically, the use of a spring tempered steel. Modern and replacement extractors are MIM, cast steel, or machined from bar stock. The alloy used and the heat treatment will determine the durability of the extractor. I do not think that MIM nor cast steel alloys would make for good candidates for the tempering that creates spring steel. Wilson, EGW, Cylinder & Slide, and Ed Brown usually get high marks for quality.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

RIA has a lifetime warranty. They will take care of it by sending you a new extractor or bringing your gun in and install/tune a new one. Ed Brown also makes great parts.

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213th FBINA

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned it yet, but never drop a round in the chamber of a 1911 and close the slide on it. The gun is designed to feed the cartridge and have the rim slide up under the extractor from underneath.
Dropping the slide on a round in the chamber forces the extractor to bend more than its intended to and hits it directly on the hook.
This can cause broken extractors. Always feed a 1911 from the magazine.
Just a little PSA for those who may not be addicted to 1911s.

Wilson Combat Bullettproof line.
Forged bar stock.

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Dave Ramsey Cultist

If your life doesn't depend on this pistol, contact RIA. If it does, anything from Brownells will be superior. Some extractors work better a little loose, but most require them to be tighter, creating a spring effect. They usually don't require much or any adjustment. While waiting, it might be a great time to learn how to detail strip that 1911, clean it and learn how to put it back together!

I’m a big fan of Aftec extractors. I learned about them when my Nighthawk came with one. Since then, I’ve built a few and used them in the builds. Yes, they add “parts”, but there is no tuning, and I find them to be very reliable.

I have installed and tweaked both Ed Brown and Wilson “bullet proof” 1911 extractors. Either one will work. Either one will benefit from tweaking and shaping following the advice in a sticky on the 1911forum.

As said before, the key is to get the extractor to function properly in your gun with your magazines and your ammunition.

Reason I use different magazines depending on cartridge and pistol. Perhaps I’m blessed to have “ a few” different 1911s. Hard for me to understand someone with a high $$$ match 1911 wanting to just go “ blasting” with hot ammo.

In over 50+ years of shooting 1911's, mostly with SWC cast bullets, I have only replaced one extractor. In a Gold Cup and it really didn't need it that bad. I have had no failures to feed or extract in Colt, Springfield Armory, RIA, Ruger or S&W 1911's.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Well, I have learned a great deal about 1911's just reading all these replies and I sure want to thank all of you for responding with all this info. I guess one way to put it would be "I didn't even know what I didn't know", but I'm learning a lot and that's one of the great things about this terrific forum. Y'all don't "look down your nose" at a novice, but really try to help and I'm certainly grateful.
I'd forgotten about the lifetime warranty and I am the original owner, so I'll be contacting RIA to see how they want to proceed about getting my "Rock" running correctly again.

Again, much obliged,

Buckshot Bill

Yep, let them fix it on their dime! Hope all goes well.

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.