What is the best way to loosen a stock bolt on a Model 12 Winchester?? I have tried using a large screwdriver with no luck. Not sure what other method might be successful. Have used Kroil with no luck to loosen it. Not sure if the bolt is rusted to its washer or what is going on in there?? Thanks!

Cautions: make sure that the screwdriver blade is smaller than the stock bolt hole. I once split a stock because the screwdriver blade was too wide for the stock hole. Might have to file down the blade where it does not touch the sides of the hole. penetrating oil is good to use to loosen the bolt.

I'd gently secure the receiver in my woodworking vice with some leather pads and put a crescent wrench on the screwdriver shaft. Use a flashlight and make sure you have the screwdriver properly seated on the thru-bolt before wrenching on it. Righty tightly, lefty loosey!

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"I also cook."

And all these years I thought I was the only neophyte to have b broken a stock trying to remove the stock bolt.

Old mechanic's trick: secure the receiver in a vice as mentioned above. Insert screwdriver and apply a bit of twisting torque. Hit the end of the screwdriver with a hammer. Give it a fairly good rap. The vibration will often help loosen the screw. Be patient. Sometimes it takes a while, but it will get there.

I have had for decades a hand impact driver. I would use that with the proper size hollow ground bit and 1/4" extensions and adapters assuming the stock hole will accommodate 1/4'sockets parts. Just tap the back of the impact tool with a hammer. Put the receiver in a vise. I imagine the impact tool is still available and cheap

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Pete
I ain't no fortunate son

The job is much easier with a Long bladed screw driver ...
I use a Craftsman with a 12" long blade ... it is long enough to reach the slot and have enough blade protruding to close a Crescent Wrench on the square blade shaft .
While pressing down firmly on the screw driver with one hand ... turn the Crescent Wrench with the other ... I usually get someone to hold the rifle ... butt up , muzzel on floor ,,, a padded vice if you don't have help or three working hands !
Don't let the screw driver slip ... hold tight and press down firmly and pray the bolt breaks loose .
Gary

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

What I have done is use a long shaft screwdriver, then wrap masking tape around he shaft behind the blade to build up the diameter and act as a centralizer to keep the shaft in the center of the stock hole. My screwdriver has a square shaft, can use a Crescent wrench or Vise Grip on it to turn the shaft if needed.

I use the ratchet in my Chapman bit set. Provides more torque


#5575 Master Screwdriver Set | Chapman MFG
– Chapman Manufacturing

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Still Running Against the Wind

My through=bolt stock removal tool is just a length of
5/8 dia drill rod.
I cut a screw driver 'blade' tip into one end.
I used an endmill cutter of whatever dia and made a pass into the end of the rod on each side of center leaving a 'blade' .

The other end has a hole drilled crosswise through the rod. Thats to allow
for a screwdriver shank or other handy accessory to slide thru and provide a T handle.

The 5/8d of the 'screwdriver ' makes for easy drop into the hole and engagement of the stock bolt slot.
No slipping off to the side to worry about.
Leaving the Blade plenty think, stout and not any longer than necessary makes it strong so it doesn't twist off.
File it thinner if needed to fit.

A screwdriver as T handle or any other handy item gived you lots of power and plenty of control over it.

I put a mark on the T handle end indicating the same position the Blade is at so I can better line the tool up with the screw head slot after I first get a glance down the hole at it.

Regular screwdrivers never seemed to work all that great for me. Though I do have a couple with shafts that are plenty long. They never are easy to line up and I can't get enough torque using them it seems. Getting weak I guess.

“CENTRALIZER”……. Your just making up words now

I just use a long blade screwdriver - never had any issues.

Casing Centralizers – API 10D Standard for Oil & Gas Cementing

Right on!-
Many folks just think long handled screwdrivers are just a chisel or pry bar!

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14 S&W Revs none with locks!

First off, dripping oil on the head of the bolt might do something for rust on the bolt head/washer. Doesn't do squat for the threads. For that, you'll have to remove barrel, slide and bolt so you can lube the bolt thread at the rear of the action.

I believe I got a specially made socket that solves the problem from Brownells. It was made for Remingtons, but would probably work for your purpose. It's a stout screw driver bit inside a cylinder that centers the bit in the counter bore.

Before I got the socket, I used a large square shaft screw driver and a crescent wrench as mentioned above. They apparently have some hefty folks who tighten those bolts. I generally put the stock in a padded vise. There isn't all that much meat in a shotgun action. Although if you've got the very rear of the action where the threaded plate is in the vise, shouldn't be a problem.

As I mentioned earlier, you can accomplish exactly the same thing by putting enough turns of masking tape around the screwdriver shaft behind the blade. That centralizes the shaft in the stock hole and prevents the screwdriver blade from getting between the bolt head and the wood. That is what causes the wood stock to split.

I'd used a similar system, the socket was faster & better fit. Worth the $$.

I've worked in the gun factorys.
Some use air wrenches so it sounds like a tire shop around the time the first snow fall comes.
They likely all do now.

At times some of them seemed to really enjoy that particular part of the assembly procedure.
I would think the wrenches are adj for a specific torque setting, but hey, who's checking!

Have a Winchester Model 12 that has a stock bolt that refuses to budge when trying to loosen it. Never had one that was frozen up before. Any suggestions on how to get it to move?? Have used Kroil on it, but no luck. Thanks!

Slotted head or hex nut? If hex try a 6 point socket. Disassemble and use a small soldering iron on inside and heat it up, may help.

Slot head, maybe apply the heat to the receiver shank that the bolt threads into?? Nothing else has worked, maybe someone put red Loctite on it??? 🤷‍♀️

Slotted heads can be a real pain. I had one that got sprayed with a good aerosol lube, dripped with Kroil and cursed at. The best solution I was told was to cut the stock off, get at it with vice grips and buy a new stock. I have yet to try it, so it's sat for 5 years. The gun was a $75 rescue but it is not an easy rescue.

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Front sight and squeeze

Rust is a terrible thing and soaking with a fine lubricate is always the best option before more drastic measures. Having to deal with rusty and stuck threads on pipes and machinery was an everyday occupational activity for me. We would heat up, not an option for you, then liberally soak with a penetrating oil, then impact the offending item. Impacting broke the rust bond between the 2 items in most cases. A light tap on the screwdriver while turning could help. Be careful. Being a collector, user and fan of the model 12's I have to ask, WHY? I have had dozens of model 12's and only removed 2 buttstocks.

Thank you! So many think that Magic Kroil or Blaster will somehow get under the head and into the threads!

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Still Running Against the Wind