Is a full length guide rod a worthwhile modification? What is gained?

*****Same question about bushing replacement compensators, such as the Wilson Combat Model? *****

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Pete
I ain't no fortunate son

OP
There is some thought that it might be a cure for a yet to be discovered problem.
A good 1911 will most likely work with either option.
Lots of strong opinions and no for certain data or review.
I have some of both.
It is all your choice.
Bill@Yuma

I tried them and found they did nothing extra so reverted back to the standard type.

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No good deed goes unpunished.

Ditto. The main purpose of using the full length guide rod is to make assembly and disassembly more difficult but with no offsetting benefits. Leave your 1911 just the way John Browning designed it.

Keeps spring coiling straight and not rubbing inside of frame and slide, adds weight to muzzle, smoother cycling, helps my engineering OCD.

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Stang1911

When the 1911 is chambered in 10mm Auto, the full length guide rod may help smooth the heavier recoil spring's ride along the guide rod and into the spring plug. For other calibers, I've tried them and generally did not like them. They usually require the use of a bushing wrench for disassembly and reassembly.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

Assembly and disassembly using a full length rod is frustrating and complicated. It is almost a two-person job. And it does not get any easier with experience. A bushing wrench helps, but not that much. After hitting the ceiling with the thimble one time too many, it did not take me long to go back to using the conventional short rod and thimble, never to return. It sucks and is not worth the hassle for me.

It's designed to sell you something that's never been necessary and to line the pockets of those who make and sell them. They will give you all kinds of reasons why full-length rods are needed but promoting their brand is what's most important.

1911 platform pistols have been using the original design since 1911 and still work just fine.

But...they don't hurt anything even if they don't help...so if you want one...go ahead. It's your wallet being lightened.

Back in the 80's and 90's I built a total of around 40 1911's. Most were on cheap Fed Ord aluminum frames and reweld slides and surplus GI parts.

Of the early one I built the only one with a full-length guide rod, that was my personal gun. But as the years progressed, that was a desired feature that wasn't that expensive on a new build. In the long run those frames are short lived! About 800-1000 round count. When the dust shield below the front of the slide cracked, it was usually at the slide stop hole, and rendered the frame next to useless. I transferred my entire parts set to an Essex steel frame. I refitted the slide and bead blasted to white metal and Parkerized every piece (except springs). In the 20 teens I shot a Cowboy Action Class called "Wild Bunch". Loosely based on the movie of the same name, for handguns it used one 1911 and several magazines loaded with 5 rounds of LRN Ammo. The category for non-race guns didn't allow rubber grips or one-piece guide rods. (So, I replaced them with GI parts) I shot in competition maybe 15 times, that equates to 150 or so rounds, never a problem. The few thousand rounds of lead nosed, slow velocity, and very dirty rounds I shot in practice also never had a problem! If the gun runs smooth with "Cowboy" ammo and no guide rod, it will run smooth with Ball or SD ammo. So, my personal full size 1911 has no guide rod.

My two Para-Ordnance LDA 1911's have short barrels and multiple return springs and guide rods, from the factory. They work fine, so I won't "Fix" them!

The things I learned that are a must building 1911's are: 1) Good Barrel bushing fit; 2) Good and free moving springs; 3) precise fitting of the sear & disconnector; 4) Good magazines.

Ivan

I have both, I agree it's a little more cumbersome to take apart, but not rocket science. I installed the EGW FGR flat recoil spring system on one of my 1911 Officers I rebuilt and put a dependability package on for carry just because it was the best option for this build. I honestly can't tell any difference in performance vs the SGR though.

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Dave Ramsey Cultist

If it were needed ...

John M. Browning would have designed the 1911 with one from the get-go.

I don't see the need .

Gary

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

I have 1911's with both. If the gun originally came with it I usually left it alone. My most accurate 1911 is a Series 70 Colt Gold Cup, and the original short rod.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

My SW1911 E came with a full length guide rod so I tried a flat wire recoil spring I had on hand but ended up switching it back. I found the few oz of weight up front felt better to me.

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Ken SWCA#3864 SWHF#956

Well, I guess the consensus is that this is a waste of time, money and effort. I do not believe I will be going there

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Pete
I ain't no fortunate son

I agree with everything that been said. They're useless.
I've purchased three 1911s that came with a FLGR. Two have been converted to the original short version. The other is a special edition gun, so I left it alone.
I remember some 20-30 years ago I read an interview in one of the gun magazines with Les Baer. He said the only reason he put FLGRs in his guns was because customers wanted them. Then added that none of his personal 1911s had one. I don't know if he still feels that way.

For the gadgeteers.

On a 1911, a full length guide rod is not an essential part. It does take the snakey kink travel out of the recoil spring, producing what some feel is a smoother action. The full length guide rod made from steel, either carbon or more often SS, does put a bit more weight forward, which is a good thing for recoil control.

I do not recommend FLGR's for duty or other working guns, as they limit options for emergency jam clearance.

The bushing-style compensator is near totally worthless. It's too wide open to trap any gas for a real compensator effect.

My Koenig PC 1911-2 38Super has the FLGR , but it's as easy to break down as any other 1911 . I have a 6in 1911 in 10mm that has the shorter guide rod , never had the first problem with it . So I guess it doesn't really matter . I have both models of 845's and 945's , if the FLGR's are important , I would think these guns would have them .

I once tried a full length guide rod in a Lightweight Commander. Besides not making a difference and complicating takedown…it increased the weight to a steel frame Combat Commander…getting away from the idea of the aluminum frame gun to begin with.

Leasson learned.

IMHO full length guide rods are totally unnecessary and do not improve anything in a 1911. Just another solution to a non problem.

I use the F/L rod sold by Dawson Precision. It has a spring clip for very easy take down for cleaning. I have them in 3 of my 1911s and in my duty gun, STI 2011 in 40 SW. They seem slightly smoother, but not enough to get excited about. It makes takedown a breeze.

By the way, the only thing more useless than a full length guide rod in the 1911 is a two-piece full length guide rod. Decades ago, I drank from the fountain of 1911 gadgets and bought one for my home-brewed Commander length 1911. I quickly found out that the two-piece guide rod can unscrew itself during shooting. Yeah, I'm not sure if it still lives in my parts stash or if it is a resident of the local landfill.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

The SS two-piece will stay intact, most of the time, when vigorously tightened. The carbon steel will unscrew itself quickly. Not my preferred choice on a competitive gun. I value the one piece more for a little moreforward weight on a competitive action sports gun.

Some 1911 accessories are right up there with fuzzy dice hanging from your vehicle's rear view mirror. All bling and no useful zing.

Mine was carbon steel as it had a blued finish. Looked nice, just did not work so well.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

One of my 1911s came from the factory with a two piece FLGR. Can't remember which one. Anyway, I took it apart to clean it after its first range trip and found that thing almost unscrewed. It never went back in.

Count me as another that hasn’t found a good reason to have them in over 45 years of carrying/using/competing with 1911s. Any one I bought that had one was changed to the standard rod/plug configuration within minutes.

I've had one or two with them. None of mine currently do. It's a non-issue with me. I don't see the point of them but if a gun has one and I want it, it's not a deal breaker.

I tried one in a Combat Commander back years ago when it was a hot fad in USPSA circles. Meh.

Full length guide rods keep you from pushing the slide back by pressing the front of the slide against something. The two piece ones unscrew themselves at the most inopportune moments. Great amusement to the other guys in your squad during a match. For me, a thoroughly bad idea on a carry gun when there is potentially much more at stake.

I hadn’t considered that angle but it is certainly a valid reason to deep six any idea of using a FLGR. I have needed to use that method to retract the slide on several occasions

The FLGR doesn't completely stop the "shove the slide end against something solid" method of 1911 clearing, but it certainly seriously limits. Would not want to be using this precise method in emergency circumstances.