1911 Full length guide rod?

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The primary benefit is to the folks who manufacture, sell and/or install them.

When the late Jeff Cooper was asked what the full length guide rod was for, he would say it is so those folks would have something to sell.
 
I feel like if you buy one to add to the nose mass or it has some kind of recoil reduction spring gadget then at least it's doing something, but as far as just a plain old full length rod, no, I don't see the point. I have read that it helps with the spring not binding up but I have yet to see that as a problem... ever...
 
It seems to run in cycles. Years back the full length guide rods were quite popular. Many high-end custom builders offered them in their guns as "improvements", claiming they improved reliability and accuracy. These days, I see the trend going back to the original set-up.

I installed the Wilson Combat FLGR's in a couple of SA mil-spec 1911 pistols about fifteen years ago, mostly because I thought they looked cool, but I didn't see any noticeable improvement over the original system. The guns worked fine before the "upgrade", and they ran fine after I sent my money to WC. Everyone knows half the fun of owning a 1911 is messing around with them, changing parts and convincing yourself you're a budding gunsmith.
 
Yes they serve to make the recoil system more complicated and to require special tools to allow you to disassemble the firearm for cleaning. There is a reason why most serious users (USMC, LA SWAT etc.) specify the original length guide rods on the 1911's they order.
 
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Yes they serve to make the recoil system more complicated and to require special tools to allow you to disassemble the firearm for cleaning. There is a reason why most serious users (USMC, LA SWAT etc.) specify the original length guide rods on the 1911's they order.

What special tool is required for what FL guide rod? I know of very tightly fit bushings that need a wrench, but I know of no guide rods that need tools. What am I missing?
 
Full-length guide rods also prevent you from pushing a slide back by placing the the lower end of the slide against a post. Not that it is something you do very often, but have encountered ammo that would not chamber properly.

The slide is out of battery, can't tap it closed, and can't yank it back by hand. It was "push on a post" that cleared the offending round.

Turned out it was the combination of the cast bullet I was using and AMERC head stamped brass. These were reloads with "club match brass." You toss in the tumbler what other folks picked after after your run after culling the steel cases and .40 cal hulls and load some for next week.
 
I have one in my Les Baer Premier II long slide. Is there any benefit? Who knows. I put it in to go along with the crowd 14 years ago. As far as working with it, all it takes is an allen wrench to un-screw the rod. The bushing is the same.

Hobie
 
What special tool is required for what FL guide rod? I know of very tightly fit bushings that need a wrench, but I know of no guide rods that need tools. What am I missing?

There are some guide full length rods that are two piece. They require a pin to be installed to remove them.

Also, because the spring cap is hollow, you need a tool to press down on the cap so you can turn the bushing. I've tried to do it by hand, but it hurts and I can't push the cap far enough to allow the bushing to turn. I need to use some kid of tool even if it's just a flat piece of metal.
 
My Colt L. Commander XSE came with a full length guide rod and I bought a Harrt's Recoil Reducing guide rod. I don't push in the plunger to take down the gun. I just pull the pin and remove the slide. It has always seemed much easier to me on all 1911's to do it like that. I had no idea some guide rods need a pin in them to be removed. Odd. What does this design offer???
 
Maximumbob54 said:
I had no idea some guide rods need a pin in them to be removed. Odd. What does this design offer???
I have no idea, but I'll bet it was originally thought to make removing the rod easier.

The guide rod on my pistol will not come out until the spring has been removed. There isn't enough space between the bottom of the slide and the barrel. Removing the spring gives you just enough room to get the rod out.
 
Personally, I don't care for the FLGR. In the 1911s I have or have owned, if they come with a FLGR I replaced them with a GI guide rod. I find it much easier to field strip with the GI rod. I've never read anything definitive showing there is a real benefit to a FLGR.

I especially don't like the two-piece guide rods. All they are good for is to come unscrewed, and to require a allen wrench or tool to disassemble them.
 
They were "cool"at one time,but in the end you need a bushing wrench to field strip and it's a nuisance if you forget it.So now I have half a dozen wrenches spread around in the truck,in the safe,in the shooting bag,etc.
 
The most accurate 1911 I have also have full length guide rods on them. They are very consistent.The 1911's I had without them were not.
 
In the mid 80's I did machine work for a fellow that built combat autos I put comps on and milled in Bomar sights and whatever he wanted to try and on mine and a few others I built full length rods but I had access to a very heavy metal called Mallory No Chat that was used in lathe boring bars and we put several in customers autos. The only advantage was the extra weight. Jeff
 
Also full length guide rods were used on the Colt Officers model to fix the weak front plugs.. I have two colts and never used the fix and have had no issues in 20+ years of shooting them.. They also claimed tighter groups.. Heck if you can't hit something at fighting range with a hand gun you need a rife anyway.. I would not wast my money.. IMO George
 
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