Accuracy from a 686!

Thanks for the words of encouragement!
I know that I have doubled my effective range just in the last couple weeks by using proper technique and practice...it also has been a big help knowing that I now own a handgun that is incredibly accurate!!! No more excuses:D

I'm gaining;)



Drew,

While professional instruction could certainly benefit you, I wouldn't sweat it if you don't get it. There are plenty of proficient handgunners who have never had any instruction. Elmer Keith never had any, just lots and lots of practice (if you don't know who he is, your sixgunning education has not yet begun). Getting really good with your gun is simply going to take thousands of deliberate rounds.
 
Add me to the list of those who believe that the 6" L-frame is a top gun in the accuracy arena. One thing regarding shooting practise (and I realize that I'm saying this with no knowledge of your specific background): old-fashioned one-handed bulls-eye shooting (in my opinion) will help a lot in both increasing your skill and identifying any problems with your grip and "triggernometry". It's a very good diagnostic.
 
Hi,
I may try this more in the future...Thanks!

Today, I shot from a good bench rest so I could make sure the gun was shooting exactly as I had sighted in freehand.

*I posted more on this in the "Lounge area" POA Groupings.

Anyway, I gotta say, the groups were very tight with most touching the other rounds...I am very impressed with this 686!
My groups were all shot from 25 yards with 357 ammo today...140 grain and then 158 grain. Very consistant!



Add me to the list of those who believe that the 6" L-frame is a top gun in the accuracy arena. One thing regarding shooting practise (and I realize that I'm saying this with no knowledge of your specific background): old-fashioned one-handed bulls-eye shooting (in my opinion) will help a lot in both increasing your skill and identifying any problems with your grip and "triggernometry". It's a very good diagnostic.
 
If you really want to have some fun with that 686, start reloading. I cant believe how much better reloads are! Good Luck
 
If you really want to have some fun with that 686, start reloading. I cant believe how much better reloads are! Good Luck

Yeah, you know it's something I thought about doing many years ago...mainly was thinking about reloading 12 gauge shotshell for bird-hunting back then; just thought it would be cool to do.
Now that I purchased the 686 and have the new desire to shoot all the time, it may be a great reason to try reloading;)
Not to mention the cost of ammo these days!

Whadaya think a basic starting reloading set-up would cost?
 
Yeah, you know it's something I thought about doing many years ago...mainly was thinking about reloading 12 gauge shotshell for bird-hunting back then; just thought it would be cool to do.
Now that I purchased the 686 and have the new desire to shoot all the time, it may be a great reason to try reloading;)
Not to mention the cost of ammo these days!

Whadaya think a basic starting reloading set-up would cost?
Depending on brand and what all you would consider a start up kit. My guess is $350 to $550 would set you up real nice. Not counting cases, bullets, primers and powder and reloading manuals.
 
It will do 100 yards easy, I can shoot a 8 inch group Bullseye style (One Hand), To hunt with it I went out and found me a walking stick with a "Y" on top to use for a rest, plus these old legs need it for the walk.
 
My 4-inch 686 was never scoped, but off a good rest it made me look like I knew what I was doing......most of the time. I had pretty good eyes 20 years ago.

image0-1.jpg
 
Drew,

Answering your "what would it cost to get started reloading" question:
There is absolutely no need to spend $300 plus dollars. Check out the Lee single stage kit. It has almost everything you need.

Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Anniversary Kit - MidwayUSA

This is how I got started reloading about 10 years ago, and I still have this kit. I'd also recommend you buy Richard Lee's handloading book, called Modern Reloading (or a comparable book). It has step by step instructions, as well as load info more most of the popular cartridges reloaded today. You should be able to get everything you need equipment wise (minus the actual ammo components) for right around $100.
 
Depending on brand and what all you would consider a start up kit. My guess is $350 to $550 would set you up real nice. Not counting cases, bullets, primers and powder and reloading manuals.

Thanks for the info!
 
It will do 100 yards easy, I can shoot a 8 inch group Bullseye style (One Hand), To hunt with it I went out and found me a walking stick with a "Y" on top to use for a rest, plus these old legs need it for the walk.
:cool:That's an awesome idea! Just curious, do they make a walking stick/shooting rest; great concept...I don't recall seeing a manufactured one.
It would certainly be a big help on those distant shots.
 
My 4-inch 686 was never scoped, but off a good rest it made me look like I knew what I was doing......most of the time. I had pretty good eyes 20 years ago.

image0-1.jpg

Everytime I see a post like this I want to run-out and shoot my 686:D
Thanks for sharing!
 
Drew,

Answering your "what would it cost to get started reloading" question:
There is absolutely no need to spend $300 plus dollars. Check out the Lee single stage kit. It has almost everything you need.

Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Anniversary Kit - MidwayUSA

This is how I got started reloading about 10 years ago, and I still have this kit. I'd also recommend you buy Richard Lee's handloading book, called Modern Reloading (or a comparable book). It has step by step instructions, as well as load info more most of the popular cartridges reloaded today. You should be able to get everything you need equipment wise (minus the actual ammo components) for right around $100.

Wow, that would be in tune with what I would want to invest at this time...Thanks for the info and link!
I just may be able to start reloading sooner than I was thinking.
I don't want to invest a lot of money into it at this time...Got the Holidays and all...But mostly I need to have money to start my S&W Collection;)
Thanks, Drew
 
:cool:That's an awesome idea! Just curious, do they make a walking stick/shooting rest; great concept...I don't recall seeing a manufactured one.
It would certainly be a big help on those distant shots.


You can buy one from Midway USA.
 
I don't remember going into a gun shop that has any hunting gear that has not had them for sale. I live in a small hick town in MO and those with hunting supplies always have shooting sticks.
 
Cool; I gotta say I never had the need, so I guess I never paid much attention...
I've always been aware of shooting sticks, just never thought about them being used as a walking stick too.
I wouldn't want to carry an extra accessary into the woods for the sake of having a steady rest...I would just try to get by with a natural rest (tree/stump) or whatever.
But, thinking about the advantages of having a good walking stick that would double as a shooting rest; well, that might be worth it.:D
Just something I hadn't thought about until reading the post. Probably because I never really took the concept of Handgun Hunting to serious...However, with the accuracy of the 686 I am looking forward to next season and the challenge of giving it a try.:)

Thanks, Drew
 
m10 vs m686

Ok, I have a M19 that I really like buy know I'm thinking 686 also. Is the big differnance frame size? Never shot anything bigger than a K frame but know I am very curious...thanks alot!
 
Not that much bigger for you to notice, unless your a gun nut. I have both and actuall size is not much, but weight is way up as thisngs like full underlug on most 686 models and the beefed up the top strap and cylinders some I believe.

I own a K frame, a K22 Target Masterpiece Model 48 22 WMR and from just casual use of the K-22 and L frame 686 there is some weight difference as indicated. Not enough to bother most people who just plink at the range, but if you are a serious hiker you will know difference after a few miles.
 
Not that much bigger for you to notice, unless your a gun nut. I have both and actuall size is not much, but weight is way up as thisngs like full underlug on most 686 models and the beefed up the top strap and cylinders some I believe.

I own a K frame, a K22 Target Masterpiece Model 48 22 WMR and from just casual use of the K-22 and L frame 686 there is some weight difference as indicated. Not enough to bother most people who just plink at the range, but if you are a serious hiker you will know difference after a few miles.

I have both. Two K frame model 66s and one 686-3 L frame. All three are 4 inch barrels. I like the balance of the two 66s better. The 686 has a full underlug barrel and has a heavier feeling muzzle. But also the 686 soaks up recoil better when shooting 357s. Actually, the only revolver I have thats better shooting 357s is my model 28-2 4 inch. I think the N frames are the best Smith and Wesson has for 357s. But that is just me. Others feel the L frame is the best. Both L and N frames are about the same weight and heavier than the K frame.
A nice pre-lock 586/686 is one of the best 357 revolvers out there. You can't go wrong with either a L frame or N frame for shooting 357s. They are a lot easier to shoot 357s.

Thats my view,
roaddog28
 
My 5 inch 686 could put holes in an 8 inch target at 50. The best factory load I tried was the Hornady LeverEvolution.
 
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