SW9VE Jam

Patriot1951

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Good afternoon,

I am new to this forum, so bear with me.

I have a relatively new SW9VE that has had about 400 rounds run through it. It has been very reliable until recently. Last week when I went to the range, it began to jam with some degree of regularity. I believe it was what is known as a "stovepipe" type jam. The spent casing was getting trapped in the ejection port. It was not a double feed.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Patriot1951
 
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Yes. I have heard that it is "finicky" about being cleaned. Is there anything in particular that I need to pay special attention to?
 
I have a relatively new SW9VE that has had about 400 rounds run through it. It has been very reliable until recently. Last week when I went to the range, it began to jam with some degree of regularity. I believe it was what is known as a "stovepipe" type jam. The spent casing was getting trapped in the ejection port. It was not a double feed.

This is very close to what's happened with mine. I've been trying to figure out whether I'm not holding a firm enough wrist when shooting, or whether I ought to send it to S&W to have it looked at. Like yours, it's a recent purchase with about 500 rounds thru it. It began to eject poorly in the middle of a range session. Usually they aren't stovepipes, just laying horizonal and caught in the slide as it closes. I clean it after every use. And I'm also pretty new at this.
 
what kind of ammo are you using...blazer aluminum may not get ejected well......or some other type might not be compatable
 
I have been using Winchester 115 gr BEB and Speer Lawman 115 gr TMJ. Are these loads too light?
 
Also, what exactly is a "stovepipe"? Maybe I am using the wrong terminology. The spent casing is trapped in the ejection port - usually parallel to the piece.

Thanks
 
In regard to cleaning, where exactly are the "cylinder charge holes"? The manual refers to these being blocked which can cause an ejection problem.
 
In my experience, stovepipes often occur due to "limp" or "weak" wristing: The shooter isn't holding the pistol firmly enough, and during recoil, the wrist flexes up, negating some of the recoil/ejection action of the slide. In effect, the ejection mouth of the slide is coming back and biting the casing before it clears the port. The fact that it seems to be happening midway or most of the way into a shooting session strengthens this theory. Anyone else agree?
 
Suggest thoroughly cleaning all the grit and grease out of the grooves on the slide that the frame points ride in.
Then put a drop of breakfree on each of the frame points and try it again.
I bent and ground the end of an old toothbrush handle to make a tool that (with a patch on it) gets all the way down into the gooves.

Another thing to watch is that you keep your hands off the slide when firing. The jam is caused by the slide not coming all the way back against the ejector.

Another possibility is that you are leaving oil in the chamber and it is getting gummy. The chamber should be CLEAN and DRY when you start firing.
 
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the ammo you are using should be ok. OKF55 gives some good advice. The "light" I was talking about referrs to the case not the weight of the bullett. Aluminum is light and some people report it does not eject properly...
 
That's what I thought as well. If that's the case, why does the manual for this semi refer to these holes getting clogged and causing jams?
 
You may need to do a thorough cleaning of the slide. Behind the black cap on rear of slide is the striker assembly and the extractor rod and spring. Taking apart and cleaning would be best, but you can try cleaning with it intact. Remove recoil rod and spring. Remove barrel. On back of slide you will see extractor plunger on left and a hole next to it on right (back of slide facing you). Get a spray gun cleaner (I use non-chlorinated brake cleaner) with extension wand and blast some in hole (cover firing pin hole with finger). Depress extractor plunger and spray around it and let cleaner run inside around plunger. Let cleaner do its work for a while. Repeat and finish by blowing out with air (canned air for cleaning keyboards works fine). If you have crap blowing out the holes repeat till clean.

Good Luck...
 
...On back of slide you will see extractor plunger on left and a hole next to it on right (back of slide facing you). Get a spray gun cleaner (I use non-chlorinated brake cleaner) with extension wand and blast some in hole (cover firing pin hole with finger). Depress extractor plunger and spray around it and let cleaner run inside around plunger. Let cleaner do its work for a while. Repeat and finish by blowing out with air (canned air for cleaning keyboards works fine). If you have crap blowing out the holes repeat till clean.

Good Luck...

I've also been have a problem with casings not ejecting from my Sigma 9mm. As suggested, I got a spray can of cleaner (got Break Free) and - using a thin spray extension tube - sprayed a bunch into the hole across from the extractor plunger on the bottom of the slide. Guess what: A whole lot of stuff floated out, including a couple dozen very small brass flecks. I sprayed and blew it out three times. The plunger moves more easily now. I'll take this pistol to the range on Friday and give an update afterward. Thanks Kenster.

What does depressing the plunger do to the extractor?
 
The plunger on the back of the slide is the striker safety plunger.This blocks the striker from moving forward unless the trigger is pulled.
 
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