Range report: 629, cyl unlocked!! w/pics

I have the X-Frame grips on my 629-3 Classic and they fit and work great. If you look at the link above, it says they will work with K and N frames. Takes the sting right out of warm loads.

While the 500 Magnum grip will fit the N frame, it's not as good a fit as it is on the round butt K, L, and X frames. I've tried mounting this grip on my 610 and there is a large gap between the backstrap on the frame and the rubber of the grip that covers the backstrap, about 1/8 inch of gap. Granted it only extends down perhaps 3/4 inch where it meets up with the backstrap, however in time the rubber at the top of the grip will eventually split. One thought that I considered was to fill the gap with Goop, it would look a bit redneck but it would provide support for the rubber. However, a 6 1/2 inch 610 really doesn't need the extra cushion the 500 monogrip provides so I just put that factory grip back on it and put the 500 grip back on my 620 where it is needed when shooting 357 Magnums.
 
Sorry to hear of your 629 unlocking, I've lost 2 29's to WWB 240's so I feel your pain. When I contacted Smith about 7 yrs ago they could do nothing so it's nice to see they will upgrade older revolvers so they can stand up to full power 44's a little better. My advice is to use the guin as a heavy 44 special and not a magnum, use them sparingly.
 
I was out yesterday shooting some hot hand loads with my 629-8 Talo 3" and had no problems at all with recoil and me with arthritic hands and no shooting gloves. They however were brutal couple months ago in my Marlin 1894P, a 16" ported beauty. I had figured I would save them for the large frame Dan Wesson so they would be easy on my hand, but yesterday decided to try them in the 3" because of it being a SD gun and loaded with 240gr JHP Corbon most of the time.

Love my Pachmayr Decelerator grips. They are on all my N frames.

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Next is seeing how it does with Nosler 300gr JHP I have waiting to be loaded. :eek:
 
I was out yesterday shooting some hot hand loads with my 629-8 Talo 3" and had no problems at all with recoil and me with arthritic hands and no shooting gloves.

I guess the recoil seemed overly stout to me because it's been 30 years since I last fired a 44 Magnum. My hand wasn't sore or anything after 18 rounds; I just stopped because of the cut on my thumb that had sprung up. Pachmayr Presentation grips are on there now so we'll see how those do at the range next week.
 
X-frame grips will fit your gun and soften the punch. I sometimes use them for stout loads on my 625-9, 45 Colt.
Man those X frame grips are ugly with the stripe or with out the stripe. But beauty is in the eye of the beholder they say, but some times I think it is a piece of gravel. ;)
 
Don't suppose conditioning from shooting your FA83 in 475 had something to do with that, eh?

Jim

Jim,


I would have had to admit that if I had been shooting it lately (because it does either cure flinch or helps create it:D), but like I said, I was away from shooting for about 6 months, and when I take that long of a break, I have to mentally start over regarding recoil control.

Glad to see you're back here.:)

BTW- want to know where those Rim Rock 305's came from?;)
 
Try a different shooting technique, I learned of the "thumbs off" technique here on the forum. When gripping the revolver with both hands, point both thumbs off to the side up into the air - don't let them touch the gun. I also try to pull on the front of the trigger guard with my off hand first finger. It has been working very well for me! I was always getting hit by the cylinder release button and it hurt. It won't cost anything to give it a try....

I have the X frame gripper on my 329 and it fits the gun perfectly when the screw is drawn up snug. It helps, but the 329 still hurts to shoot real heavy loads!

Ward
 
I feel your pain, my 586 plus came with the same style grips. I fixed that by sawing off the horns and reshapeing the top of the grips. Heres a pic of the aftersugery grips.

Yes, I realized it was the very sharp back edge of the horn on the left grip that was biting me. I got the Drimmel out this morning and modified a gray set of Altamonts. It will be interesting to see if this cures the problem. I hope it does because I really do love these grips.


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First, are you sure that the cylinder did lock up? Have you checked the timing? If it is OK then the spring that Bob was talking about is weak or dirty, dirty.
 
First, are you sure that the cylinder did lock up? Have you checked the timing? If it is OK then the spring that Bob was talking about is weak or dirty, dirty.

Timing is fine and the gun is mechanically sound. A new stop spring will probably fix the problem since the existing spring is 28 years old.
 
Anyone got any words of wisdom regarding the cylinder unlocking on recoil?

Same thing just happened to me today with my brand new (8/24/10 manufactured) 629 Classic with 5" barrel (unlocking), but then would not cycle DA at all. I could pull the trigger and hear a "click" and see the firing pin move forward, but the hammer would not move.

I had just purchased the gun today and went straight to the range and was trying different over the counter ammo. I was firing Remington Magnum 240 grain SJHP R44MG3 when it broke.

Is this typical of new S&W N frames? I am very dissappointed as I was loving how it shoots with the stock Hogue grips. How can this be fixed?
 
A new bolt spring will probably fix it.

With regard to the injury, in my younger days I had that happen. In my case, it was a blister that got formed, then torn open. I fixed that by adopting Elmer's method of dealing with recoil. Now, no problems and it doesn't matter what grips, either. If you have access to his book "Sixguns", carefully read the part where he describes how to handle recoil. A very brief summary is that you only grip the gun with one hand, using the other for support only, and let the gun recoil as high as it wants to go. The two-handed, locked-solid grip people use for lesser recoiling guns just doesn't work on a .44. It will beat you up.
 
Same thing just happened to me today with my brand new (8/24/10 manufactured) 629 Classic with 5" barrel (unlocking), but then would not cycle DA at all. I could pull the trigger and hear a "click" and see the firing pin move forward, but the hammer would not move.

I don't think you and I are having the same problem. (Your last sentence doesn't make any sense.)
 
Interesting post, I just bought a 629. The gunshop ordered it so I guess it is this years model. I haven't picked it up yet cause the paperwork aint back yet. My main question is: Is it correct to say that the new 629 guns have all the upgrades already?? Next question is: The gun I bought has Hogue grips but it sounds like most guys prefer the Decelerators?? Are they softer/more recoil absorbing?? I thought the Hogues fit my hand pretty well and felt good to hold...but of course holding it and shooting it is two different things. Finally, I have had the unlocking thing happen with my 686+ and it seemed to "correct itself" at my range. I thought it must be dirt because it happened after alot of rounds. So, my question is how many rounds do you fellas usually fire before a full blown real good cleaning needs to happen???
 
Interesting post, I just bought a 629. The gunshop ordered it so I guess it is this years model. I haven't picked it up yet cause the paperwork aint back yet. My main question is: Is it correct to say that the new 629 guns have all the upgrades already?? Next question is: The gun I bought has Hogue grips but it sounds like most guys prefer the Decelerators?? Are they softer/more recoil absorbing?? I thought the Hogues fit my hand pretty well and felt good to hold...but of course holding it and shooting it is two different things. Finally, I have had the unlocking thing happen with my 686+ and it seemed to "correct itself" at my range. I thought it must be dirt because it happened after alot of rounds. So, my question is how many rounds do you fellas usually fire before a full blown real good cleaning needs to happen???

From the 629-4 onward they all have the "Endurance Package," so yes, your new 629 will have all the upgrades.

Dirt wasn't an issue with my unlocking problem because it happened on the 5th round I fired after the gun had been cleaned the night before.
 
When you say "cleaned" does that include taking off the side plate and doing a detailed strip and clean? Just asking because it seems like with my guns after about 150-200 rounds they get pretty dirty inside the frame. Never really read any suggestions as to how often a full detailed cleaning should be done. Surely not every trip to the range or am I mistaken?? Thanks for the above info.
 
Unlatching problem!

The factory investigated this problem with the then new 500! It happens to me when I shoot the 500(everytime) but not with my 10 5/8" barrel preendurance package mod 29 and very hot loads and a very light trigger. It is the product of heavy recoil movement to the rear, i.e.; short barrels, heavy bullets, and large charges of powder!
The factory found the problem is not the guns, it is the shooter! Some people use what is referred to as a "light hold"! What this means is the shooter relaxes his trigger finger immediately when the shot goes off. Then under the movement produced by the recoil the shooter slaps the trigger again with enough force to unlatch the cylinder. The force required to do this is very little!
jcelect SWCA#LM723
 
The factory investigated this problem with the then new 500! It happens to me when I shoot the 500(everytime) but not with my 10 5/8" barrel preendurance package mod 29 and very hot loads and a very light trigger. It is the product of heavy recoil movement to the rear, i.e.; short barrels, heavy bullets, and large charges of powder!
The factory found the problem is not the guns, it is the shooter! Some people use what is referred to as a "light hold"! What this means is the shooter relaxes his trigger finger immediately when the shot goes off. Then under the movement produced by the recoil the shooter slaps the trigger again with enough force to unlatch the cylinder. The force required to do this is very little!
jcelect SWCA#LM723

If it's the shooter, why did S&W make all those modifications (larger cylinder stop and stop notches) to the 29 and 629 when silhouette shooters started complaining about cylinder rollback on recoil?
 
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