M&P 9c, is my gun dealer full of it?

mplavellesw40

Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2011
Messages
10
Reaction score
1
Location
Mustang, Oklahoma
Back about a month ago while I was shopping for a new gun I remember picking up the 9c and asking the guy behind the counter what that little circular thing with the arrow going around it on the left rear side of the slide. He told me as I recall that the polymer frame of the M&P line are made by an outside manufacturer and that was an internal lock mechanism but S&W doesn't use internal locks so they just put a plug into it. to my limited knowledge I think he's half right, anybody know the full story?
 
Register to hide this ad
The plug is on the frame, not the slide. That plug is where the manual safety would go, if it was a model that had one. You can purchase them with one.
 
Correction to AGK's post. The guy behind the counter was partly correct. That is where the internal trigger lock "keyhole" would be if the gun was equipped with it. Some states require these for guns to be sold legally in their state some do not. If it was plugged then that particular gun did not have the trigger lock mechanism so S&W put the plug in it so that it wouldn't have a hole in the frame. Not sure if it would be possible to install one if it didn't have one and you wanted it. Would be cheaper/easier to buy a trigger or cable lock for that purpose.

2011-03-02223642.jpg
 
Correction to AGK's post. The guy behind the counter was partly correct. That is where the internal trigger lock "keyhole" would be if the gun was equipped with it. Some states require these for guns to be sold legally in their state some do not. If it was plugged then that particular gun did not have the trigger lock mechanism so S&W put the plug in it so that it wouldn't have a hole in the frame. Not sure if it would be possible to install one if it didn't have one and you wanted it. Would be cheaper/easier to buy a trigger or cable lock for that purpose.

See photo below.
 
Last edited:
An interesting question about the frame manufacturer. Anybody know if it is made inhouse? I know that the FN FNP/FNX frames are made for FN by a company here in the U.S...
 
Correction to AGK's post. The guy behind the counter was partly correct. That is where the internal trigger lock "keyhole" would be if the gun was equipped with it. Some states require these for guns to be sold legally in their state some do not. If it was plugged then that particular gun did not have the trigger lock mechanism so S&W put the plug in it so that it wouldn't have a hole in the frame. Not sure if it would be possible to install one if it didn't have one and you wanted it. Would be cheaper/easier to buy a trigger or cable lock for that purpose.

See photo below.

The picture that you show is the full size M&P not the compact. It does look like the thumb saftey (TS) is in the same spot however it is a different frame that is used with those equipped with the TS then the ones with the internal triger lock. M&P's with the TS cannot have the internal trigger lock and vice versa as the 2 saftey mechanisms occupy the same area in the trigger block. Also S&W only uses the ITL frame on the M&P's that do not come from the factory with the TS The frames with the TS have a deeper groove in the top of the frame on both sides as opposed to the ITL only being the small hole on one side of the frame. What tips this off as being the ITL frame and not the TS frame is the arrow that circles around the plug with the letter "L" for lock

MP.jpg
 
Greetings Everyone..!

Interesting thread. Only thing I can add is that where ever the frame is made, Smith and Wesson hit a Home Run with the MP!!!!


Love my new MP 45fs....! Fired 200 plus rounds last weekend assorted ammo, ball, Federal HST, Speer Gold Dots... without a hitch!

American Design - American Made!

Giving Glock (excellent gun as well ) a run for the $$$!

Best

Bob
 
Back about a month ago while I was shopping for a new gun I remember picking up the 9c and asking the guy behind the counter what that little circular thing with the arrow going around it on the left rear side of the slide. He told me as I recall that the polymer frame of the M&P line are made by an outside manufacturer and that was an internal lock mechanism but S&W doesn't use internal locks so they just put a plug into it. to my limited knowledge I think he's half right, anybody know the full story?
On the 9mm and .40 "standard" M&YP's, the Internal Lock ("Hillary Lock") uses the little round hole. For whatever reason, S&W just supplies a plug if you don't get a gun that's equipped with it.

The Thumb Safety on these guns uses little square cutouts on the top of the plastic frame area.

It doesn't appear that the Hilary Lock can't be there where there's a Thumb Safety (at least not on my full size M&P40, M&P40C, or M&P9C), but I'm not sure.

You could add a Hilary Lock to any of the above (with the "I'm not sure" caveat about the Thumb Safety) by removing the little plug and inserting some parts in the Sear Block (which ain't a block - it's the subframe with all of the sear parts in it) on these guns. Who'd want to, though.... :D

To remove the Hilary Lock (presuming you're not paranoid about removing manufacturer-supplied "safety" components), there's a washer around the keyhole on the Sear Block. Pry it out, and the couple of internal parts involved can be removed. Put some kind of plug in the hole in the plastic frame, and toss the lock components.

Regards,
 
Just brought my new 9c home today. The little pamphlet that comes with the weapon says, "if equipped" when addressing the item you mention. I guess some jurisdictions require this internal safety and some don't. S&W makes both. Hope this helps.
 
harleyman5:

The M&P9's and 40's are available with and without the Hilary Lock (which is the little round hole), with and without a magazine safety (guns without one are marked on the slide), and with and without thumb safeties.

The Hilary Lock and thumb safety may be exclusive, but it appears that the mag safety is available either way.

S&W, for sound economic reasons, uses the same manual for all of them.

(There's also the option of the "Massachusetts Compliant" sear block.)

And you're correct - some areas require the mag safety and/or Hilary Lock, and the MA Compliant sear block is pretty obvious :) ....

I'm too lazy to figure out the total number of possibles....

It doesn't appear that you can add a thumb safety easily (S&W will say you can't) to a gun that didn't come with one, but the rest of these options are a mix & match sort of thing, except that the MA Compliant sear block, once done (or if you bought it that way) can't be switched back. (But you can swap springs or use an Apex kit to improve that.)

So if you bring one home with a mag safety and Hilary Lock, you can remove those fairly easily. (There's a special spring that goes on the shaft that holds the mag safety and disassembly sear block, in this case, that you'll need to fudge, but tossing the disassembly block also works :) . Conversely, you can install a mag safety in a gun that doesn't have one, but you'll need a different spring. The spring actually is a sort of active spacer, to keep things from flopping around, so there's nothing critical there. I haven't tried it, but you probably could cut up a ballpoint pen spring....)

All that said, and it's just a touch of Mas Ayoob paranoia, you probably should never remove a manufacturer-supplied safety device. YMMV....

About mixing guns in manuals.... I swear that the folks at Para got completely carried away with that. My first Para came with a manual that made it abundantly clear that I had the wrong manual until I really dug into things. Full length guide rod? No problem - that's a footnote on page XXX. Double-stacker? Covered back there someplace. Etc.... After about an hour of holding the gun and manual and twisting things around, it finally became clear that other than the guide rod, disassembly was the same as any old 1911, and that I didn't have the model that required you to take the guide rod apart before trying to take the gun apart....

The Walther P22 may be the best, though, if they didn't change it. The first one I saw (at the club), the owner had to take it apart to show us.... We couldn't get it back together.... Five or six really serious gun guys.... Finally, somebody noticed that little piece of plastic in the pile - it's a very temporary extension to the guide rod. You put the spring on both parts during re-assembly.... The portions of the manual that cover it might as well had been written in Urdu....

(Another story.... WAY back, when the Intel 286 processor was something new, I bought a new machine, and arranged to take it to a buddy's house in Columbus. An impromptu cookout ensued, and we tried to set the machine up - format the HD, etc. He was a serious PC Consultant, a couple of the guys worked for the Microcentre, and one guy was at the top end of Battelle's PC operation. I wasn't the guru that I briefly became yet :) . We couldn't get the fool thing to partition properly.... After about four hours, and a lot of beer, and possibly because I don't drink, I figured out that there were two nearly identical screens to deal with, one of which was a sort of "press F1 to change any of this" screen, and just pressing "Enter" didn't do what we thought it would.... Manuals? We don't need no steenkin manuals.... :D)

NOW, immediately, run out and buy several more M&P's. Gotta keep the numbers up at S&W :D ....

(Enjoy!)

Regards,
 
The picture that you show is the full size M&P not the compact. It does look like the thumb saftey (TS) is in the same spot however it is a different frame that is used with those equipped with the TS then the ones with the internal triger lock. M&P's with the TS cannot have the internal trigger lock and vice versa as the 2 saftey mechanisms occupy the same area in the trigger block. Also S&W only uses the ITL frame on the M&P's that do not come from the factory with the TS The frames with the TS have a deeper groove in the top of the frame on both sides as opposed to the ITL only being the small hole on one side of the frame. What tips this off as being the ITL frame and not the TS frame is the arrow that circles around the plug with the letter "L" for lock

MP.jpg


This is correct, my 40c is just as stated, plug on the hole, arrow and "L".
 
Back
Top