HP 28-2 - Help me clean her up please.

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Hello all I am new to the forum and thank you for all the great advice I have seen in here. I have a HP 28-2 in decent shape probably 8 or 8.5 out of 10 and I want to "restore" it if you will to be of better value. I believe the serial # is N829XXX but I will double check it.

I am specifically looking at the barrel markings, trigger, and a spot behind the cylinder next to the grip under the release. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated, ultimately I am going to sell it but want it to be in better condition. If anyone can give me an estimated value too that would be helpful. Thank you again.
 

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Were that mine, I'd limit myself to a thorough cleaning, including light buffing with oil and OOOO steel wool to remove any light rust spots, and finding an original set of grips plus maybe a T-grip to go on it. Of course, my plan would be to keep it, but these things would raise the resale value to about the highest it could be in "original" condition.
 
Welcome to the forum

Typically, and in this case, the cost of restoration outweighs any gain. You will spend more that what a pristine 28-2 in the box would cost. Just shoot the **** out of it.
 
These days the cost of upgrading a common shooter-grade gun is not cost-effective. The moderate cleanup recommended is sufficient to get many years of good service out of that gun, assuming that it is in average condition mechanically. If I were to upgrade the finish I would send it to the factory; last I heard that would be $200 and change plus about $40 for overnight shipping. The results would be very nice, but unless you got the gun for free it's very unlikely you would ever get enough out of the gun in resale to come out on the deal. Nothing against your gun which looks like it would be a good old shooter; it's just the cost of getting things done versus what you can expect to realize.

There are a lot of Model 10s and Model 28s in daily use that look like that one.
 
Restoring most guns reduces value. The pristine original guns are what collectors will pay top dollar to acquire, not refurbished examples. What you have is a gun showing some honest wear. It would not be cost effective to refinish it and most people would say it would not be desirable.

This is a gun you can shoot and enjoy. If you want a collector grade revolver you will have to find one for sale and buy it.

PS: I appreciate a gun that looks like it works for a living. I have no interest in "safe queens."


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I agree with all of the comments above and the (0000) steel wool and gun oil will make it look amazing better. Then wipe it down so it's total clean and add a coat of wax like Johnsons floor wax or Renaissance wax and it will look a lot better and retain it's value.
 
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Thanks all, I don't have high expectations of this returning to factory new or getting some nest egg out of it. At the same time I would be interested in knowing the worth even though it is a common model.

The advice of the wool, oil, and wax is great and I will enjoy cleaning it up and seeing how it turns out. At one point we had the original grips but I am not sure as to where they are. Does anyone know where I can buy an original set or a replica set? I'll post the updated pictures when it is all done.

My dad bought it from a retired Pa State Trooper back in the mid 70's and eventually gave it to me. I have had it now for over 15 years and have had a great time shooting it. I don't shoot anymore so I want to pass it on to someone that will appreciate the gun.

Thank you all again for the advice and the great forum.
 
If you're looking for grips that are correct for this gun I'd suggest checking the "WTS" section of this forum regularly as well as some of the on-line auction sites like Gunbroker and eBay. There are also a number of manufacturers that sell replica grips and these can range from reasonably priced to totally over the top. In one of my crazy and impulsive moments I bought a set of "coke" reproduction grips from Nill Griffe, a German company, to put on my 66 no-dash. They are incredibly beautiful, not at all correct for the gun, and they were really expensive, costing me over $200. I don't go down that route any more. Smith & Wesson also markets its "classic" grips which are not technically correct but which, IMO, look great and cost a lot less than did the Nills.

I have a 28-2 like yours and, like yours, it shows its age. It doesn't bother me one bit, the gun shoots like a laser, and it's one of my favorites.
 
My dad bought it from a retired Pa State Trooper back in the mid 70's and eventually gave it to me. I have had it now for over 15 years and have had a great time shooting it. I don't shoot anymore so I want to pass it on to someone that will appreciate the gun.

Sounds like it has a lot of history, both with your family and before. I'd give it some thought before I passed it on, but if that's what you have decided to do, I'm sure someone here will be happy to take it off your hands. As SaxonPig said, many of us appreciate a fine revolver that has earned it's wear.
 
I'm going to pile on to the "give it a good cleaning, N-frame target grips, and then leave it alone" group.


As far as value, I have read here that the 6.5" barreled models are less desirable than the 4", but it's probably a better shooter than a 4", though. I would say to look on Gunbroker for an idea of current values, but some of the asking prices on 28's are ridiculous. Just because someone is asking $750 for a good condition Highway Patrolman doesn't mean he'll get it.
 
Here she is a little more cleaned up. Thanks again all for the advice.
 

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Thanks again all for the advice, am more confident in my thinking it is an 8.5 out of 10 for condition. I know that at one point I had the original grips and they may be in another state with dad. Cheers all for the help and advice.
 
DON'T USE STEEL WOOL!!!!!! The steel wool leaves behind microscopic steel particles behind that end up rusting later. You are starting more future rust than you are removing. Go with the bronze wool and tread lightly. Also, rather than gun oil, try Kroil or some of the other corrosion fighters that are out there.
 
New member here. I just can't believe that anyone would use #0000 steel wool on a blued gun??? I know I would never ever use it on a k98 mauser. To remove light surface rust, k98 collectors typically use kroil and #000 bronze wool, which is available at brownells dot com. It takes the rust off but doesn't harm the blueing. Not stepping on toes here but now I have to pick my jaw up off the floor.
 

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