New 629 broke first time out

[mtelkhntr]

I bought a brand new 6" 629 earlier this fall and hadn't had a chance to try it out until today. I ran a cylinder full of 44 special through it, no problem. Loaded the next cylinder full of 44 mag and shot it 3 times then she locked up tight. It won't cock and roll the cylinder and I can't open the cylinder. Just plain locked up. I didn't take the magical key with me so waited until I got home to see if that nastly lock thing didn't activate on it's own and nope that isn't it either. How's that for S&W quality. Not even 10 rounds down the pipe and we're already having issues.

Shot the heck out of my no dash 686 without the mods. and it purred like a kitten. So much for newer is better if you ask me.

 

[Stevie]

Well that ain't cool!

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. I bet S&W will fix it up.

 

[deerhtr]

were you shooting handloads or factory ammo

 

[c good]

Reloaded .44 Mag or Factory loads? Sometimes you will experience "bullet pull" with a weak crimp. The round will elongate due to inertia, jam the bullet into the forcing cone, and not allow the cylinder to carry up to the next charge hole. Don't ask me how I know this! P.S. You can pull the hammer back until the cylinder bolt retracts, then rotate cylinder to an empty hole and open the cylinder/yoke if you need to clear the weapon. HTH c good

 

[sheriffoconee]

If I had to guess, and I do, I would say that the extractor rod has come unthreaded a few turns.....
"Standard rods are left hand threaded to tighten with cylinder rotation. Older rods are right handed [identified by a grooved recess, or line, cut into the end knurling]." Your revolver has a standard rod
You may be able to use a very small wooden wedge to tighten the end of the rod a turn or so and see if that allows you to open the cylinder....It should open...
If it does, put some empty cases in at least three of the chambers and tighten the rod by using a padded vise or pliers..and be gentle...

 

[mtelkhntr]

Reloaded .44 Mag or Factory loads? Sometimes you will experience "bullet pull" with a weak crimp. The round will elongate due to inertia, jam the bullet into the forcing cone, and not allow the cylinder to carry up to the next charge hole. Don't ask me how I know this! P.S. You can pull the hammer back until the cylinder bolt retracts, then rotate cylinder to an empty hole and open the cylinder/yoke if you need to clear the weapon. HTH c good

All were factory loads. 44 special are winchester cowboy action loads 240 gr. flatnose. 44mag are Blazer 240 gr JHP.

 

[mtelkhntr]

Well that ain't cool!

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. I bet S&W will fix it up.

If I choose not to screw with this and send it back, can I ship it back to the factory with loaded ammo in the cylinder? The hammer is on an empty as it fired that round then wouldn't advance anymore. From the comments on some of threads discussing the quality of work they see on mod's and such, I might be better off calling my favored gunsmith and paying him for the work.

 

[m657]

I had a pierced primer once that did that; lock up a cylinder on the fired hole. It extruded back and captured the firing pin.

My local 'smith quickly resolved the issue for minimal cost. IF it is that.

Good luck and let us know the resolution of this.

 

[Elmer]

If I choose not to screw with this and send it back, can I ship it back to the factory with loaded ammo in the cylinder? The hammer is on an empty as it fired that round then wouldn't advance anymore. From the comments on some of threads discussing the quality of work they see on mod's and such, I might be better off calling my favored gunsmith and paying him for the work.

NO!!

Do not ship loaded. I'd call Smith and ask them what to do. They may send you to someone local.

Sorry about your new gun. I had a brand new one break in the first 30 rounds a few months ago.

 

[47D]

If I choose not to screw with this and send it back, can I ship it back to the factory with loaded ammo in the cylinder?

I don't believe it is actually against federal law to ship a loaded gun to an FFL holder, but I doubt any carrier will accept it in that condition. Smith and Wesson instructs you not to ship ammunition to them and be sure a weapon is unloaded before shipping.

 

[Titegroups]

Obvious question but can you see light in the barrel cylinder gap? Step one.

 

[mtelkhntr]

Obvious question but can you see light in the barrel cylinder gap? Step one.

That was the first thing I checked in the field. I've run a small dowel down the barrel and it goes all the way into the empty case clear to the spent primer.

 

[r.d.mcdaniel]

S&W Issues

in 1981 I purchased my first handgun. A S&W model 19. 1st trip to the range the cylinder locked up tight, like yours. I took it back to the shop where I bought it and they sent it back to S&W. They said it had gotten "out of time" Thousands of rounds later, no more issues. I gave it to my daughter when she moved into her own home.
Over the years I've had to send new guns from Browning,Ruger, and S&W back for repairs or recalls. They were all fixed and returned to me and none of them ever had another issue.My last new gun purchase was a Colt 1911, after the first range trip the rear sight was loose. The shop where I purchased it fixed it for me. So, you've now had an issue with one gun. I guess you are luckier than me!

 

[TheGerk]

If I choose not to screw with this and send it back, can I ship it back to the factory with loaded ammo in the cylinder? The hammer is on an empty as it fired that round then wouldn't advance anymore. From the comments on some of threads discussing the quality of work they see on mod's and such, I might be better off calling my favored gunsmith and paying him for the work.

DO NOT SHIP THE GUN WITH ANY UNFIRED CARTRIDGES IN THE CYLINDER
Is it the ejector rod that has unthreaded and now not allowing the guns cylinder to open?
Or is it the Hammer lock that has malfunctioned locking up the gun?

I suspect the ejector rod is the culprit.
New Smiths are notorious for shooting loose when new.
Either way, you may have to take the side plate off the revolver and either remove the hammer or relieve the ejector rod detent in the breech face.
(the detent is under spring pressure, this will allow the cylinder top open).
It's not a difficult task, just make sure the still loaded firearm is ALWAYS pointed in a safe direction from you and anything "down range" until the cylinder can be opened and cleared.

Just remember to "tap" not "pry" the side plate to remove the side plate for disassembly

I would not let any "Smith" work on a new gun if it can be avoided, if the gunsmith damages the gun and or alters anything S&W may no longer accept if for future repair or service under warranty (Which is a very good one these days)

Do not let your anger and or frustration maneuver you into making a poor decision here.
Good Luck

 

[H Richard]

Have you tried to open it since it has cooled down after shooting? (I assume you have). If not, try. Remember back when the Mod 19's first came out and the tolerances were too tight for the amount of stretch the stainless did when heated up and they locked up, but when they cooled down worked normally. If this is the case it needs to go back and have the tolerances adjusted. It could also be a tiny piece of machining debris that worked it's way into the right place internally.

 

[arc2x4]

Try the card trick, take a business card and slide it into the frame window and use it to depress the cylinder stop (the thing that falls into the cylinder notch when you work the trigger) Can you rotate the cylinder now? If so the ejector rod may have unscrewed rotate the cylinder and hold the rod knurling to screw it back in. now try opening the cylinder.

If not call S&W they will send you a prepaid label, ammo in the gun or not, to send it back for a fix.

 

[mtelkhntr]

I called customer service and they're sending the shipping labels but as many have pointed out, NOT with live ammo. Service rep said depress the cylinder release and take a soft hammer and whack on the cylinder to get it to open. I'm thinking that if it happens to be a timing issue and I'm whacking on the thing and bend something, they're going to be real pleased with me. I'm thinking about having someone who knows what he's doing do the whacking then when he's done send it in.

 

[mtelkhntr]

Try the card trick, take a business card and slide it into the frame window and use it to depress the cylinder stop (the thing that falls into the cylinder notch when you work the trigger) Can you rotate the cylinder now? If so the ejector rod may have unscrewed rotate the cylinder and hold the rod knurling to screw it back in. now try opening the cylinder.

If not call S&W they will send you a prepaid label, ammo in the gun or not, to send it back for a fix.

The card trick worked or at least helped. I took an old plastic rewards card and tried jamming it in there and between that and working the release the cylinder opened up. So, like the Norwegian I am, once I'd cleared the cylinder I closed it up and dry fired it several times with no problem. Looking at the spent cases, one of the primer pockets looks black like it may have been ruptured so I'll send the three spent cases back with the revolver and see what they say.

 

[arc2x4]

Sounds like an ammo problem The primer is either damaged or missing from the round, and it tied up the gun, if there is no damage and the gun dryfires fine, I would get the rest of the box of ammo and call the ammo manufacturer. They will send you a label to send the ammo back for evaluation and they will replace it with ammo or money, and if there is any damage to the gun pay for that as well, if you insist.

What brand of ammo and type was it? Lot number on the box?

 

[kennyb]

i think u will find that the primer tied the gun up...i doubt there is any problem with the gun