So I'm trying to take out the ejector rod but I'm having some issues. I think who ever worked on this last over tightened it and so im having a very difficult time opening it. I took out the cylinder. I put the rod between two pieces of wood and clamped it down with a vise and it upon twisting the cylinder the rod would just spin and squeek from the friction from the wood. I tightened more and tried again. After several tries the wood cracked. This is how I saw someone do it online. And I've tried almost every method posted on the net. What else can I try here?
686 ejector rod removal
- Thread starter Off-Road
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
AveragEd
Member
There is a tool for that purpose - I bought mine from MidwayUSA. Also, the ejector rods on most later S&Ws have left-hand threads - are you trying to turn it in the correct direction?
Ed
Ed
snubbiefan
Member
In this case...."lefty-tighty-righty-lucy".
Or....you got it from some nut that figured red loctite ought to hold that darn thing in place. I make it a habit to try and keep my side-plate screws and ejector rods not much tighter than snug and check them often. If you have ever twisted one off in a frame behind some idiot that put glue on them......you will remember what you had to do to fix it FOREVER.
Or....you got it from some nut that figured red loctite ought to hold that darn thing in place. I make it a habit to try and keep my side-plate screws and ejector rods not much tighter than snug and check them often. If you have ever twisted one off in a frame behind some idiot that put glue on them......you will remember what you had to do to fix it FOREVER.
scooter123
Member
First question is which way were you turning it? On the 686 the Ejector Rod is a LEFT HAND thread. If you were turning in the direction for a Right Hand thread the person doing the overtightening was yourself. BTW, not being critiical here, sometimes the best of us forget details like this and those new to these revolvers might not be aware of this.
Next question. Was this a New revolver or did you purchase it used? If you purchased it used it's entirely possible that a Previous Owner used Locktite on the ejector rod, a practice I STRONGLY DISCOURAGE. If it has been locktited you should plan on heating it in a 180 degree oven and wearing heavy gloves so you can work on it while it's still hot. BTW, you don't have to worry about 180 degrees F effecting the heat treat, it's too low, however it is high enough to soften everything except the special high temperature locktite, which is usually quite rare on store shelves and mostly a special order product.
Solution is to get it good and hot, load every chamber with fired casings, and then remember it's a LEFT HAND THREAD, which means Righty Loosy.
Next question. Was this a New revolver or did you purchase it used? If you purchased it used it's entirely possible that a Previous Owner used Locktite on the ejector rod, a practice I STRONGLY DISCOURAGE. If it has been locktited you should plan on heating it in a 180 degree oven and wearing heavy gloves so you can work on it while it's still hot. BTW, you don't have to worry about 180 degrees F effecting the heat treat, it's too low, however it is high enough to soften everything except the special high temperature locktite, which is usually quite rare on store shelves and mostly a special order product.
Solution is to get it good and hot, load every chamber with fired casings, and then remember it's a LEFT HAND THREAD, which means Righty Loosy.
By the way, welcome to the forum. I see that it's your 1st post. Hope it's been fruitful for you.
snubbiefan
Member
If it is so blame tight the OP has to put it in a vice to remove it.....it's just in there too blame tight....or glued in. If he was turning it the wrong way and only spun the cylinder in the blocks of wood....that speaks volumes for the strength of the ejector rod. I would think one would almost twist-off the rod as opposed to spinning the cylinder in a vice.
Last edited:
Even factory tighened ejector rods typically require a vice to unscrew.
snubbiefan
Member
I am not above learning something new every day. I have never found one that tight. Generally....I can hold the cylinder with my hand and use a piece of leather and a pair of vice-grips.
I've been following the forum for a while reading the different threads. Just havn't posted anything since I joined.
But I had success! I was turning the the cylinder the right way by the way, it was just on that tightly. I'm surprised the threads had not stripped(assuming it was tightened). I guess it's also possible that after several heat cycles it turned into this. I bought this used so it's possible the previous owner never disassembled it or over tightened it. It came with a clean barrel but the cylinder was a mess. Not only is here the .38 special casing mark that is slowly going away with each cleaning I do, but the face of the cylinder was covered.
But getting it open sort of cost me a vise. It's not a big deal. I can just cut it off and insert a long bolt with a cap bolt or something. All that matters is that I got it off.
Some of my friends think Im a pack rat, but in reality I just think all the small things I keep will come to use sooner or later. Being resourceful really... Like the leather belt that broke several months back. I clamped the rod between the belt until the vise.. thingy bent(as seen above) and i kept going for maybe 10 more full twists. The cylinder rod at this point was still turning in place but with a lot of resistance. So I got a grip lock plier and I had it grip the tip of the rod where it's hatched. I then got another grip lock plier and had my brother use it to compress the end of the plier that was gripping the tip of the rod. Finally there was no movement and I was able to break it lose.
Now if you guys say that the older SW revolvers were threaded the other way I can understand over tightening because the direction of the cylinder twist is the same as losening the rod and I've read having the rod losen with the cylinder closed is a lot of headache. But assuming that someone tightened this thing this badly only raises question mark.
This brings me to my next question. How tight do I need to tighten the rod? No torque specs here, but I'm thinking something firm but not too tight.. maybe a little bit of tightening once the threads are fully in. And since with my design the direction of cylinder travel is the same as tightening I'm guessing I dont need to worry about the rod loosening, correct? I do a full disassembly and cleaning after each trip to the gun range but I also tend to shoot like 200 full mag rounds each time I go so we're not talking about tightening it once a year.
But I had success! I was turning the the cylinder the right way by the way, it was just on that tightly. I'm surprised the threads had not stripped(assuming it was tightened). I guess it's also possible that after several heat cycles it turned into this. I bought this used so it's possible the previous owner never disassembled it or over tightened it. It came with a clean barrel but the cylinder was a mess. Not only is here the .38 special casing mark that is slowly going away with each cleaning I do, but the face of the cylinder was covered.
But getting it open sort of cost me a vise. It's not a big deal. I can just cut it off and insert a long bolt with a cap bolt or something. All that matters is that I got it off.
Some of my friends think Im a pack rat, but in reality I just think all the small things I keep will come to use sooner or later. Being resourceful really... Like the leather belt that broke several months back. I clamped the rod between the belt until the vise.. thingy bent(as seen above) and i kept going for maybe 10 more full twists. The cylinder rod at this point was still turning in place but with a lot of resistance. So I got a grip lock plier and I had it grip the tip of the rod where it's hatched. I then got another grip lock plier and had my brother use it to compress the end of the plier that was gripping the tip of the rod. Finally there was no movement and I was able to break it lose.
Now if you guys say that the older SW revolvers were threaded the other way I can understand over tightening because the direction of the cylinder twist is the same as losening the rod and I've read having the rod losen with the cylinder closed is a lot of headache. But assuming that someone tightened this thing this badly only raises question mark.
This brings me to my next question. How tight do I need to tighten the rod? No torque specs here, but I'm thinking something firm but not too tight.. maybe a little bit of tightening once the threads are fully in. And since with my design the direction of cylinder travel is the same as tightening I'm guessing I dont need to worry about the rod loosening, correct? I do a full disassembly and cleaning after each trip to the gun range but I also tend to shoot like 200 full mag rounds each time I go so we're not talking about tightening it once a year.
Last edited:
General
Member
I've never seen anything made in China bend that far without breaking.
Glad to see you finally got the rod out....had the same problem
the first time I removed the one on my 686.
Glad to see you finally got the rod out....had the same problem
the first time I removed the one on my 686.
Icopy1
Member
Glad I found this thread! I am trying to remove an ejector rod in my 586 to add some endshake shims, and the rod is just spinning in the vice. I've used wood and leather backing. I'll try the heat treat as well. In the morning I am buying the tool designed to remove the ejector rod from Brownells. It will be a good investment.
scooter123
Member
I don't think there is any need to remove the ejector rod at regular cleaning intervals. If that is your intent I would suggest you re-think that. Because if you do it too often you'll just wear out the threads and that means a new extractor and having it fitted to your gun. About the only time you should need to remove it is when installing an End Shake shim and that won't be very often.
As for tightening it properly, my preference is to use a trial and error approach to find the point where it doesn't shoot loose but isn't needlessly over tightened.
As for tightening it properly, my preference is to use a trial and error approach to find the point where it doesn't shoot loose but isn't needlessly over tightened.
Tyrod
Member
Vicesmith by Gunsmither Tools
Hearsedriver
Member
I clip a wooden clothespin on the knurkled end of the rod and clamp it in a vise. Works like a charm.
Everyone that anticipates removing an ejector rod should get one of the excellent tools available for that purpose. I have the Power Custom tool, which was $25 from Midway. It can handle J,K,L,N frames and Ruger DA revolvers. There are others out there and I am sure they all make this task child's play just as the PC tool does. It would be a bargain at twice the price.
When removing or installing a rod, a few empty cases should be inserted in the cylinder. These provide support for the extractor star during what might be a strenuous operation, as the OP discovered. Also, the tool should be positioned as close to the cylinder as possible.
Incidentally, the instructions that came with the PC tool state that rods should be torqued to not more than 50 inch/pounds. All threads should be thoroughly degreased with denatured alcohol or something similar prior to re-installation.
When removing or installing a rod, a few empty cases should be inserted in the cylinder. These provide support for the extractor star during what might be a strenuous operation, as the OP discovered. Also, the tool should be positioned as close to the cylinder as possible.
Incidentally, the instructions that came with the PC tool state that rods should be torqued to not more than 50 inch/pounds. All threads should be thoroughly degreased with denatured alcohol or something similar prior to re-installation.
I've just never been able to justify spending money on a tool for a job that's so easy to do safely another simple way.
Rigmover
Member
Best way to loosing the ejector rod from the cylinder is to put the ejector rod in a drill chuck and tighten up then put some empty brass casings in it and then grasp the cylinder and been carefull then turn it to loosen and it works everytime. I had one gun that i buggered up the knurl end of the rod with a set of vise grips. Never will do that again. The Drill Chuck works great...
Super old thread, so sorry for bringing it back. I was able to use some heavy-duty cardboard wrapped around the rod with a good set of pliers and turned it off. Mine was on really well, but, not as much as the OPs... thats ridiculous.
I don't go ape**** tightening it back on, I don't know if its really necessary to do so.
Also, I never really advocate using locktite, however, if I do... its Blue Temporary stuff.
I don't go ape**** tightening it back on, I don't know if its really necessary to do so.
Also, I never really advocate using locktite, however, if I do... its Blue Temporary stuff.
