686 ejector rod removal

[haggis]

Since this thread was resurrected, I will say this again. NEVER grip the ejector rod with a tool (like vise grips) that compresses the rod in one direction. It's a hollow tube, and it can be crushed by a vise grip fairly easily, especially near the knurled end. You might get lucky once or twice, but it will eventually happen. Buy one of the correct circumferential gripping tools that were made for this. The compression tools grip the rod in such a way that if they are insufficiently tightened and slip, they operate on the part of the rod inside the yoke, and slippage marks don't show. I have removed and reinstalled several hundred ejector rods with no damage at all.

Don't be a bubba gunsmith - get the right tools. They cost a lot less than a gun (or original parts).

Buck

 

[Kalison]

Since this thread was resurrected, I will say this again. NEVER grip the ejector rod with a tool (like vise grips) that compresses the rod in one direction. It's a hollow tube, and it can be crushed by a vise grip fairly easily, especially near the knurled end. You might get lucky once or twice, but it will eventually happen. Buy one of the correct circumferential gripping tools that were made for this. The compression tools grip the rod in such a way that if they are insufficiently tightened and slip, they operate on the part of the rod inside the yoke, and slippage marks don't show. I have removed and reinstalled several hundred ejector rods with no damage at all.

Don't be a bubba gunsmith - get the right tools. They cost a lot less than a gun (or original parts).

Buck

Totally agree. I ordered a clamping tool along with my replacement rod (old one was bent as it was).

 

[Hondo44]

Best way to loosing the ejector rod from the cylinder is to put the ejector rod in a drill chuck and tighten up then put some empty brass casings in it and then grasp the cylinder and been carefull then turn it to loosen and it works everytime. I had one gun that i buggered up the knurl end of the rod with a set of vise grips. Never will do that again. The Drill Chuck works great...

Another clever idea. Vise grip users need to buy tools, while craftsman are crafty.

 

[MattLarmore]

There is a tool for that purpose - I bought mine from MidwayUSA. Also, the ejector rods on most later S&Ws have left-hand threads - are you trying to turn it in the correct direction?

Ed

very good information to remember...haven't taken my ejector rod out of mine yet but will save a huge headache now

 

[Hondo44]

Notes about Post war extractor rod thread directions:

As most already know, K and N frames were changed to left hand thread in the '59 to '62 period and identified by their Model # dash #. Again, as always with Smith, beware of those with dash # but right hand thread and visa versa. Often an L is stamped on the front face of the cylinder and/or a groove is cut between the knurled and straight part of the rod.

The post war I frames were changed to left hand threads on straight extractor rods soon after the commencement of production following WW II, therefore their spawn, the 1950 introduced J frame Chiefs Special, began life with left hand threads on straight extractor rods.

Just for the record however, and not pertaining to J frames; I must acknowledge that some early 'Transitional' post war I frames were produced with right hand threads and these are identifiable by the pre war 'barrel' style extractor rod knob,
BUT: a very scarce few 'late', early post war I frames with the "barrel" knob have been observed with left hand threads! Again this is irrelevant to J frames.

To summarize: on the post war I and J frames; all straight extractor rods are left hand thread, but on the I frames not every "barrel" type extractor rod is right hand thread! As usual with Smiths, the I frame extractor rod changes were subject to a transition period of a couple of years.

Separate vs. Integral extractor knobs (pre war):
From my observations, I believe the separate screw-off "mushroom" and "barrel" (with shrouds) style knobs were of the pre 1920's period and possibly before Smith became embroiled in WW I contract gun production, in 1917. I could use some help from other members on that.

 

[jimmy.jet]

Try dusting your hardwood blocks with a little powdered rosin. Any that sticks to the rod afterward will come right off with turpentine or mineral spirits.

Larry

Thanks ,that's a good tip.
I haven't found the need to use this on an ejector but a smidgen of clear nail polish will lock a screw and you'll remove the screw easily if need be.

 

[snubbiefan]

I realize this is a resurrection of a resurrected thread,but I suppose it doesn't hurt to revisit a topic on occasion. I have another trick that works for me. A tubing flaring tool will also work. I take a rat-tail file and polish the ridges out of the holes I intend to use for that particular size rod. Like mentioned above....take the assembly out of the yoke and apply the tool in an area of the rod close to the cylinder that will not be exposed if something should slip. The tubing flaring tool will clamp-down around the entire circumference of the rod just like the modified vice-grip tools do. You will be using the smaller tube-holes on one end of the flaring tool and have a handle to hang onto. These can be had for around $10 or less in those grab-bag tool bins at hardware stores.

I may also add....that if you go shopping for a new 686/681 ejector rod, unless S&W has them....they are HARD to find. Use any tool back there close to the cylinder and stay away from the knurled end of the rod. I have a rod from a 617 that has been pressed into an oval shape out on the end as haggis mentioned above by some over-zealous would-be gunsmith using a pair of pliers.

Just another idea that has always worked for me.

 

[bcarpenterjr]

I clip a wooden clothespin on the knurkled end of the rod and clamp it in a vise. Works like a charm.

That is a brilliant iea that I wil be using tonight! Seems like the diameter of the rod is almost exactly that of the two radiuses combines, plus it expands if its a hair too small! THANKS!