CRIMP ASSISTANCE - first Bakers Dozen

[03Fatboy]

I know you all like pictures so here it is along with my first (ever) dozen 38 special trial rounds. They were all done in single stages and I measured with a beam (RCBS 505) on the first dozen. These took me an hour to make and were done to the minimum loadings (158gr). I made a second dozen with a different bullet weight (125gr) and used the auto measure. The OAL length for both dozen (1.455") are right on or just a tad under. I checked each drop of the powder on my beam and only adjusted one charge, but it wasn't off much, probably not enough to make a difference. These took me about a half hour. I'm taking my time and learning the process and stages slowly and cautiously. As I shoot these and make more, my confidence level should increase as well as the given production, but I don't have a large demand either. I want to make two trial batches of 357 next weekend (158 & 125gr), and then a range trip is in order, these loads will use the minimums as well. I provided some close ups and would appreciate any feedback on how the crimps look, or anything in general. Not sure I got it or not? Are they too heavy or not enough? Do these need to be scraped or redone? Would appreciate some input from the experienced before I make the next batch of 357.
Thanks

 

[blujax01]

I may have seated them a little deeper but you should be okay. If I may suggest a case gauge (Google L.E. Wilson or Lyman Case Gauge). Some folks find them handy as a go/no-go size verification while some use the actual gun chamber. I have one for each caliber I load. For $15-$25 it's cheap.

Congratulations!

 

[03Fatboy]

Thanks, I will look into the gauges. After looking at the pictures I posted here I was thinking I should have seated the bullet just a tad further into the case as well, but I'm at or just a tad under the OAL. I guess my main concern is if my crimp is too heavy or not enough?

 

[Jebus35745]

Glad you're up and running. Just bought one in Jan. and have to fix the primer feed. The only up grade I'll do is the loaded case ejector. Have a 550 I'll Keep with small primers and the 450 for 45acp. Did you repaint the frame? Larry

 

[03Fatboy]

The frame is original finish. The lower bracket is new, so the paint is fresh.

Anybody have any input on the crimps? Was hoping for a little more feedback from the folks who have crimped there fair share?

 

[flgolfer29]

The frame is original finish. The lower bracket is new, so the paint is fresh.

Anybody have any input on the crimps? Was hoping for a little more feedback from the folks who have crimped there fair share?

Fatboy,

Like mentioned earlier, prolly seat a little deeper. Visually, the crimp looks good to me, however, more experienced reloaders will offer their option.

If may help you to get more feedback if you start a different thread with something like 'crimp assistance' as the subject.

Happy reloading, I happen to enjoy reloading as much as shooting anymore.

joe

 

[03Fatboy]

Thanks Joe and good point, I will edit thread title accordingly.

 

[HAWKEYE10]

I agree to seating them a little more. Other than that looks like you are off to a good start. Yes I would shoot what you have loaded. Don

 

[03Fatboy]

I agree to seating them a little more. Other than that looks like you are off to a good start. Yes I would shoot what you have loaded. Don

Thanks for the input. Is reducing the OAL a little an issue? These will be shot in my S&W Revolvers.

 

[Rule3]

The crimp appears fine, I also would seat them a smidge deeper. You should just see the top edge of the cannelure. As long as the case crimp is under the bottom edge of the bullet nose you are good.

A way to test is put a round, nose down on the bench , put a towel or piece of leather over the heel of your hand (so it doesn't indent your hand) and push down as hard as you can. It should not move the bullet or change the OAL.

 

[Double-O-Dave]

The crimp appears fine, I also would seat them a smidge deeper. You should just see the top edge of the cannelure. As long as the case crimp is under the bottom edge of the bullet nose you are good.

A way to test is put a round, nose down on the bench , put a towel or piece of leather over the heel of your hand (so it doesn't indent your hand) and push down as hard as you can. It should not move the bullet or change the OAL.

Rule 3 beat me to it - I concur with his assessment about the crimp. Generally speaking, the more and harder the crimp, the greater the stress on the brass - if that is a factor to you. For hunting or self-defense, a heavy crimp is good as it keeps the bullet (projectile) from "walking out" under recoil and tying up the piece. By the way, I believe I read an article years ago that the (U.S.) military standard for .45ACP bullets was 40 lbs. of pressure on the nose of the bullet against a set of scales. I used that standard when I first started reloading until I started getting comfortable with my techniques.

Best of luck,

Dave

 

[Steve in Vermont]

For the seating depth you can also check the COL. According to the Hornady manual that should be 1.450. Also, a good thing to check is the primer depth. To high and you can get a FTF.

 

[358156hp]

Your crimps are fine, especially for a light caliber with a fast burning powder. You've done some nice work. You are crimping your bullets in the same area I do, just over the trailing edge of the cannelure. It might not seem like much with a light caliber, but with a heavier caliber it would help prevent the bullet from gaining momentum, and possibly jumping the crimp. The extra .005 of an inch you might gain by an additional 1/16 turn of your seating stem is meaningless unless you cylinder is so short that the bullet would stick out of the cylinder, and I've never seen that with any 38 Spl, especially if fired in a 357 magnum revolver.

 

[Az Rick]

Crimps look good as others have said, no need to crimp tight on target type loads, for full power though, you should. If you reload cases numerous times it can make the case mouth wear out and split sooner.

I have target .38/.357 cases that have been loaded so much, I'm embarrassed to admit the times.

You have got a great start and are approaching the hobby in the right way, err on the side of caution. You will end up learning more about shooting, ballistics, calibers, pressure, powders etc., than you ever thought. It makes shooting way more fun.

Just wait till you send a few "down the pipe". It adds an enjoyable facet to an enjoyable hobby.

I've been reloading for more than 40yrs. now and honestly if I could no longer reload, I probably wouldn't shoot much. I say I shoot so I can reload.

Best, Rick

 

[jibjab]

If you are using a starting load charge I would not worry too much about the COL. IIRC Hornady's case trim length is 1.145" so if you seat near the center of the cannelure the COL should about 1.455"

Your crimp looks fine, for a light loaded 38spl the bullet may stay put with out a crimp. The case neck tension on the bullet should be sufficient to keep the bullet in place. When I am trying out new loads I take a dial caliper to check for bullet jump.

If you apply a heavy crimp on a hollow point using a seat and crimp die it may distort the bullet nose giving various COL's I would seat and crimp in separate steps for this.

 

[Jamie]

The crimp looks fine to me, as others have said you might want to seat a bit deeper just get into the 'groove' a bit more. I'm not sure what is more important, the OAL or seating the bullet to use the cannelure completely. Funny how the OAL recommended by a manufacturer might not always line up with the cannelure.

 

[Rule3]

The crimp looks fine to me, as others have said you might want to seat a bit deeper just get into the 'groove' a bit more. I'm not sure what is more important, the OAL or seating the bullet to use the cannelure completely. Funny how the OAL recommended by a manufacturer might not always line up with the cannelure.

Cause they use a "trimmed to length" which is a tad shorter. Only matters when used with their specific bullet that has a cannelure.

 

[SMSgt]

1. Load revolver with six rounds.
2. Fire five rounds.
3. If OAL hasn't visibly increased (bullet jump - as if the channelure has clipped out of the crimp) on unfired round, you're fine.
4. Measure OAL. Should not have increased any significant amount.

Bullet jump (increased OAL) can cause cylinder binding/lockup. Other than that, too long OAL isn't a big issue in revolvers. As long as the crimp holds the bullet under recoil, it's sufficient. Typically, the heavier the loading, the firmer the crimp.

 

[03Fatboy]

Thanks and appreciate all the feedback. Last night I did rule 3 - rule of thumb pressure check and there was no movement of the seated bullet (I did slip and smash my finger, ). I will shoot 5 and inspect and measure the 6th, I don't anticipate any movement considering they are light loads, but for the beginner I think this is a good check to start to develop a feel. I've got the feedback I need to feel comfortable working up some light 357 loads this weekend in both 125 and 158 gr. I'm also using the term OAL meaning the overall length of the case with the bullet seated, I assume COL is the same thing or I should have used the COL term? However it seems I have a little flexibility on this relative to what I'm shooting them out of and they are crimped sufficiently to prevent "bullet jump".

 

[03Fatboy]

Just curious, knowing I'm shooting light loads for the 38 and 357 for both 125gr and 158gr. In other words, I will test 1 dozen of each bullet weight for the 38 and 357, 4 dozen total. Which load is going to have more recoil for the 38 and the 357 loads? Initially I suspected the 158 gr would, but the 125 gr have a little more powder ( I think, don't have manual in front of me), I guess intuitively I would have thought that the larger bullet would require more powder. I will be able to answer this question next week as well when I shoot them.