Wyo15-22
Member
I've polished the sear in my trigger and hammer until the creep is very smooth. Other than reducing the amount of sear contact is there any other way of reducing the creep?
Why so much creep in 15-22 triggers?
- Thread starter Wyo15-22
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Gopher Slayer
Member
Not that I know of.
I did what you mentioned (removed some metal from the sear, not the set-screw method). I did it little by little and installed the FCG a few times to check the feel.
I also installed the JP yellow springs. It feels like a $100 trigger now, and it's still a single stage which I prefer.
The SSA-E is pretty tempting though.
I did what you mentioned (removed some metal from the sear, not the set-screw method). I did it little by little and installed the FCG a few times to check the feel.
I also installed the JP yellow springs. It feels like a $100 trigger now, and it's still a single stage which I prefer.
The SSA-E is pretty tempting though.
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aberbaseball7
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The best money you can spend on a gun is in the trigger and barrel. $200 is a lot of money but you will not be disapointed in the geissele ssa-e. A tuned factory trigger may be better then stock but it can only get you so much before it can not be made better.
Watch the video in this thread and proceed at your own risk. I've done the modification, was glad I did it, and have fired 2K + rounds since I did it. I also have the JP yellow springs. For this gun, for me, the factory trigger is now fine. Again, it's not hard to do, and doesn't cost much at all, but your mileage may vary.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...95-how-fix-trigger-creep-you-15-22-video.html
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...95-how-fix-trigger-creep-you-15-22-video.html
Hobie1
Member
Greetings,
I hope you didn't polish very much as the heat treat is only a very thin layer. When you take away surface material, the FCG will fail prematurely. Do a search on "trigger jobs" and read.
Hobie
I hope you didn't polish very much as the heat treat is only a very thin layer. When you take away surface material, the FCG will fail prematurely. Do a search on "trigger jobs" and read.
Hobie
Majorlk
Member
Just a comment on this mod ...
- Jard uses the very same method to set the sear engagement on its triggers.
- you may well need to replace the bolt holding the grip on with a shorter one, depending upon the length of the screw you use to adjust the trigger. In my case, I replaced the original with a 3/4" long 1/2x28 cap screw.
- Jard uses the very same method to set the sear engagement on its triggers.
- you may well need to replace the bolt holding the grip on with a shorter one, depending upon the length of the screw you use to adjust the trigger. In my case, I replaced the original with a 3/4" long 1/2x28 cap screw.
dan01
Member
I just put about 400 rounds thru my new 15 22 and I did not find that much creep or slack in the trigger......It broke nicely with little effort.......I have grown accustomed to pulling out slack before firing so I don't notice minor trigger problems................Did the creep come slowly with usage or was it present from the get go?
Majorlk
Member
Yes, it is. Mine was 5.5 lbs out of the box with a fair amount of creep. Even with the vaunted Yellow Springs, polishing the sear and hook faces and putting the screw against the FCG, the best i could get was 4.5 lbs with sill a little bit of creep.
I finally installed a Jard adjustable trigger with a 1.5 lb trigger spring and adjusted the engagement to give me a creep-free 2.2 lb trigger pull.
Some people are happy with 4-5 lb triggers, but I am not. All my rifles, with the exception of my NM Garand have pulls under 3 lbs. The Garand trigger is 4.5 lbs, but it's a 2-stage with absolutely no creep and breaks like the proverbial glass rod.
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dan01
Member
If an individual is not really into match shooting factory trigger pull is not really an issue.......Banging away at beer cans and bulls eye targets is not really affected by a bit of trigger creep or slack......I cannot see putting money into trigger adjustment unless one is going to shoot match...................The 15 22 can be made very accurate without serious trigger stuff..Good scopes or sights is all that is needed for every day fun shooting................................Modding firearms not intended for match type situations is a fun thing for some, but I gets me cookies shooting the factory stuff....
Jayhawkhuntclub
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I would disagree. I'm not saying you can't shoot well with the factory trigger. And just plinking, it's probably not detectable. And if you just want to run battle simulation/training, it's not worth it. But very few people won't see improvement in their groups by removing the massive amount of factory creep.
rraisley
Member
How are we defining "creep" here? The distance the trigger is easily pulled before it starts getting harder to pull, I call "take-up". My 15-22 has very, very little. My target guns have a bit more actually, but that's never any problem. Then there's the distance the trigger must be pulled, more or less at its rated trigger pull, the actual trigger "travel" to fire, and that's what I would call "creep". For my 15-22, it is almost unnoticeable, with a factory trigger. It's not light, but it certainly doesn't creep, at least to me. Then there's "overtravel", the distance the trigger moves after firing. Quick firing is easier/better with less overtravel, but it doesn't affect single shots. Same for "reset" distance, how far back the trigger has to go to reset for the next pull - doesn't affect single shots, but faster firing will be helped by it.
Anyhow, while I'd like my 15-22 to have a lighter trigger (my target guns are all 2# - Browning Medalist and High Standard Trophy - and my new Buck Mark with the Hegis flip is 2.75#), I think the stock 15-22 trigger is pretty good, except for the weight. I just don't see the "massive creep" being referred to.
dan01
Member
I must be jaded by using my worn out firearms to the point that slack or creep is expected and compensated by easy pull to remove slack before breaking..................I must have got a good 15 22 because I haven't found the trigger to be sloppy enough to be a problem for the junk shooting that I do......................When I figure out why I got some FTFs I will consider myself lucky to have purchaced such an enjoyable rifle.
I wonder if many others have a problem with this triger creep you describe?
I wonder if many others have a problem with this triger creep you describe?
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Majorlk
Member
I have one rifle with a two-stage trigger - my NM Garand. There is no noticeable movement of the trigger in the second stage. Take up the first stage and then the trigger breaks without any conscious effort.
All my others are single stage with zero creep; I pull the trigger and it breaks with no noticeable movement. All have a TP between two and three pounds.
My match pistols have no creep, either; press the trigger and it breaks. The MkII has a TP of 20 oz, the High Standard Trophy Supramatic breaks at 14 oz - both like the proverbial glass rod.
The above is why I trashed the factory FCG and installed a Jard adjustable. It all depends upon what one's preferences are. If one is used to crappy, creepy triggers ...
All my others are single stage with zero creep; I pull the trigger and it breaks with no noticeable movement. All have a TP between two and three pounds.
My match pistols have no creep, either; press the trigger and it breaks. The MkII has a TP of 20 oz, the High Standard Trophy Supramatic breaks at 14 oz - both like the proverbial glass rod.
The above is why I trashed the factory FCG and installed a Jard adjustable. It all depends upon what one's preferences are. If one is used to crappy, creepy triggers ...
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Majorlk
Member
There seems to be a lot of variation in the factory triggers, as far as pull weight and inherent creep is concerned. It may not be all that noticeable in yours, but mine was terrible. Polishing smoothed out the creep, somewhat, but the movement was still there. Reducing the sear engagement is the only way to completely remove it. Engagement in the factory trigger can be reduced using the set screw against the trigger mod and does improve the trigger feel.
dan01
Member
To make a long story short.....I switched from 5.56 and 7.62 to military look a like (clones) 22 cal for the economy, ease of use, and my grand kids like it better.............................I still have my Remington 308 and 7mm mag. with expensive scopes for hunting if I ever do it again....Rifles are not favored on most hunting clubs around here...... Shot guns are the norm......I even went to 20 gage because 12 bit my butt too much on my bird expeditions.
Folks, I don't need teeth gritting butt puckering mechanical perfection for accuracy needed for match type shooting..................I just want reliable reasonably accurate out of the box firearms......I may not be around long enough to put the time and money required to make a cheep firearm into a match grade tiny group pop gun.
That is a fun thing for you young folks ;-)
Folks, I don't need teeth gritting butt puckering mechanical perfection for accuracy needed for match type shooting..................I just want reliable reasonably accurate out of the box firearms......I may not be around long enough to put the time and money required to make a cheep firearm into a match grade tiny group pop gun.
That is a fun thing for you young folks ;-)
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Majorlk
Member
All things, including accuracy, are relative. Some people strive for MOA accuracy and some are satisfied with Minute of Car Door.
At best, a 15-22 is going to be no better than 2 MOA; most of us are completely satisfied with that. I know I am. Mine is a little under 3 MOA.
BTW, this "youngin" is going on 70.
