I picked up this HE today.LATEST UPDATE:Range Trip

[Timber Wolf]

I'm all for using Trail Boss in these kinds of calibers and guns. I use it exclusively in .38-40, .44 Special, .45 Colt, etc. just because I have several old (and valuable) guns in these calibers.

 

[Green Frog]

Try sunlight for the grip number. Sometimes, it lights the graphite up.


Take earmuffs! They DO be loud!


All my life down south, the old saying was "a 32/20 'll shoot clear thew a man."
I dunno- never saw anybody shot with one, but I wouldn't doubt it!

Lee,

Don't forget the words of the late, great Robert Johnson in his song, "32-20 Blues" that said in part,

"Take my 32-20, and cut her half in two
She got a thirty-eight special, but I believe it's most too light
She got a thirty-eight special, but I believe it's most too light
I got a 32-20, got to make the camps alright"

More lyrics: Robert Johnson Lyrics

There was also a story from the old West where the hero temporarily swapped in his 45 Colt SA for a 32-20 to shoot flatter and gain a distance advantage over his dangerous opponent in a gunfight.

Yes, the stories and legends about the performance of 32-20s are numerous and fantastic! (And yes I keep going back and getting another one every time it dawns on me that I have sold my last one. Currently it's a 1920s example that is right on the bubble for the good heat treating on the cylinder... a brown gun, but a fun one!)

Froggie

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Froggie went a courtin' and he did ride, uh huh
Froggie went a courtin' and he did ride, oh yeah
Froggie went a courtin' and he did ride
Sword and pistol (.32-20) by his side, uh huh

 

[Rickkster]

Post bath pics...

Just a couple more pictures. I took these today after finishing up on the cleaning. I am happy with how it turned out. While it was soaking in the CLP bath, I loaded 50 rounds of .32-20 with 100 grain Rainier plated bullets that I have used for my loads in my 1895 Nagant. I loaded them over 2.4 grains of Trail Boss. I should be able to get to try it at the range in a couple of weeks. I'll post how we do.

Also, I seem now to have been bitten by some kind of .32-20 Hand Ejector bug, and I haven't even shot this one yet. There could be something else in the works. Stay tuned ;-)

handejector, I did look at the inside of the right grip in the sun. I actually think I may see numbers on it, but they are still very faint. Thanks for the suggestion though!

Cheers,

Rick

 

[Rickkster]

I am sick over this

Well, I'll make it short. Took my HE's (more on the multiples later), to the range today. I had two loads to try 2.4 grains of Trail Boss with the 100 grain plated bullet and 2.5 grains of Trail Boss with the same bullet.

I started with the 2.4 grains in my four inch barrel gun. Accuracy was pretty bad at seven yards with the first cylinder full. I shot a second cylinder full and tried various aiming points on the target. I thought I had it figured out. The last cylinder full I couldn't figure where the bullets were hitting. Yes, they never exited the barrel. I have never had this happen in all my years of shooting. I bought my first handgun in 1976. I really feel stupid.

I guess I need to find a Gunsmith to look at it, but my hopes are not high. There are no Gunsmiths in our area. I am not sure where to look or if I am wasting my time. The cylinder closes and opens roughly now. I am sick over this.

Rick

 

[mikepriwer]

Jim Sebring, an old friend and curator of the best 32-20 database, experienced this
same problem. He used a hand drill, probably an older bit for wood for an old-style
brace-and-bit, and gradually removed all six stuck bullets. He said it did not damage
the barrel , in any way. The bit should probably be just a tad smaller than the ID of
the bore, on top of the rifling.

One issue here is that you may have bulged the barrel. You can check for this
visually, just by close examination of the exterior of the barrel. You can also run your
fingers up and down the exterior of the barrel - sometimes you can feel the bulge.
Generally, if its a small bulge, it does not affect the accuracy. If its large, however,
then it can be a problem. Typically, but not always, it happens under the forged front
sight base, or over the extractor lug.

Another possibility that occurs to me, assuming that these are lead bullets, is to remove
the barrel, and melt the lead out of it. Lead melts at about 630 degress F, so if
the barrel were heated very slowly, it ought not to warp. Mind you - I have not
tried this, but as a last resort, it seems like it ought to work.

The shipping date of this gun ought to be 1917 or later. Its not 1909 - 1910.

Mike Priwer

 

[Rickkster]

Mike,

Thank you for your post. I have thought about trying to run a drill bit in to see if I can get any of the bullets out. I have a bore guide I was going to run the drill bit through. We'll see. I am just pretty disappointed in myself right now. I've been handloading since 1976, and I have always tried to be careful and take good care of the firearms I have.

Nothing like this has ever happened to me. Thanks again, I will keep folks updated on what I end up doing and how things turn out. I wanted to be able to post pics of the targets and also let everyone know that the .32-20's doubled in my house since I first started this thread. Yes, I liked the first one so much, that I located another.

It has a five inch barrel, and is slightly newer. I shot that one (just six rounds) with the 2.5 grain load and paused after each shot to make sure there was a hole in the target. It shot well at seven yards. But because of what happened with my four inch HE, my heart just wasn't in it so I stopped after those six rounds.

I'll post some pics after I finish cleaning my muzzleloader that I shot also.

Thanks again,

Rick

 

[DWalt]

I think there is more risk to the integrety of the bore by drilling than melting. I have done that only once, with an old Stevens break-open .22 rifle that had several bullets wedged in the barrel that could not be driven out with a steel rod (I bought the gun that way). I just gently heated the barrel with a propane torch until the molten lead ran out.

 

[Rickkster]

DWalt,

I very gently drilled through the first bullet, and I am still unable to get it out. I am stopping there. I don't have the proper tools to remove the barrel, so I am just in a holding pattern for now. The bullets are Rainier plated bullets. I am pretty sure they are a fairly soft lead. Heating the barrel may work. At this point, I just want to step back and very carefully think through anything I might do. Thank you for your reply.

Update: While getting ready to post this, I had a Gunsmith call me back that I left a message for while taking a break cleaning my ML. It's about a 45-50 mile drive from my home so that isn't very bad. He wants me to bring the revolver out tomorrow so he can check it out. It will probably be there for a while.

Cheers,

Rick

 

[Hondo44]

Rick,

I feel your pain but don't be overly critical of yourself, **** happens to the best of us. There is no perfect human being and "Murphy" of Murphy's Law is always lurking out there just waiting to trip us up.

I think the low pressure loads you were using and the thick 32-20 barrel are definitely in your favor. The roughness of opening the cylinder may just be dragging on the last bullet in the barrel or lead splatter in the barrel to cylinder gap.

Did you run your fingers down the outside of the barrel to see if you felt any bulging?

I would not remove the barrel, I think it's unnecessary. Melting the lead out as suggested is a good one with very low risk of doing any harm. The barrel and frame are not heat treated parts. Only the yoke which is easily removable.

 

[CptCurl]

My son-in-law had a similar experience. He was learning to load ammo for a Colt SAA .45. I had told him always to inspect the powder charge after charging a tray of cartridges (as suggested above). He didn't. One case wasn't charged with powder. The primer was enough to start that bullet down the barrel. Several more followed until he had 4 or 5 lodged.

I assume your squib was from the same or similar cause.

Another friend experienced a squib in a .223 Remington. Fortunately he had the good sense to inspect the barrel and found it obstructed before chambering another round. There certainly would have been fireworks if he had sent another round down the tube without knowing it was obstructed. As it was, a cleaning rod was all that was necessary to dislodge the .22 jacketed bullet. No damage to shooter or rifle.

Our lesson is to always be aware of anything amiss, and when something untoward happens, stop what you are doing and think it through. Fully inspect everything before you resume firing.

I have no doubt you know these principles. I'm not trying to be a know-it-all. It's just always good to recite safety principles at a time like this.

I wish you luck on removing those bullets and I hope the barrel is not bulged. For what it's worth, I'll echo the recommendation to use heat instead of mechanical devices. Heat sufficient to melt lead will not hurt your barrel. Otherwise, how would we ever assemble double rifle or double shotgun barrels? They and the ribs are all assembled with solder.

Best of luck,

 

[Rickkster]

Hondo44 and CptCurl,

I hadn't give any thought to a squib. This would be my first if it was, and I sure hope the last. I don't charge my cases in a loading block, I usually weigh every charge on a RCBS Chargemaster Combo (unless using my Dillon, which I didn't for these rounds) and charge one round, then seat the bullet and go to the next case. That was how I did these.

However, you guys just might be right about a squib. When I was loading this box, the cat kept sitting down next to my right foot and meowing her head off. I kept looking down at her and telling her to find something else to do somewhere else. Darn cat! It's her fault, ha. (When in doubt, blame the cat ;-)) Yeah, I know better than to get distracted when handloading. It's on me.

Added: Btw, I can't feel a bulge, but after today, anything sure is possible.

I'll mention to the Gunsmith about using heat to melt the bullets out when I see him tomorrow. Thank you for the replies!

Cheers,

Rick

 

[Hondo44]

Rick,
That's good news! You can feel a bulge easier than see one. So if you don't feel anything you're probably good to go!

 

[Rickkster]

Rick,
That's good news! You can feel a bulge easier than see one. So if you don't feel anything you're probably good to go!

Hondo44,

Yes, we will see tomorrow if the Gunsmith tells me I must have numb fingers after he checks out the barrel ;-) But I did have some good news today. I mentioned that I had picked up another .32-20 HE. It shot well and lives to tell about it. Below are some pics. I only shot six rounds of the 2.5 grains of Trail Boss load out of it because I was bummed about the four inch HE. These were at seven yards with my elbows on my range bag.

Cheers,

Rick

 

[Green Frog]

Rickkster,

Here's hoping things work out for you with your first 32/20, but regardless, you got a good one the second time around. That one definitely looks like a keeper!

While they aren't as common as those for the 38s, there are some replacement 32/20 M&P barrels floating around for sale (used) so even if the barrel is ruined, all may not be lost. I'm not sure how much $$$ I would sink in it since it is a low number, pre-heat treated gun... you might be better off to cut your losses and just chalk it up to experience, especially in view of the superiority of the second example. Regardless, good luck to you and keep on loading and shooting!

Froggie

 

[Hondo44]

Rick,
You got a winner there! It's an all matching beauty.

 

[mikepriwer]

One of these three drill bit sizes ought to clean that barrel out .

8mm .315"
8.0264mm .316" O
8.2042mm .323" P

I would think that a jobber "O" bit might be just what you need. I don't know what the
exact dimensions of a 32 caliber barrel are.

Mike Priwer

 

[jaymoore]

"I would avoid the use of Bullseye because the loads are so volumetrically small that it's too easy to double charge and not detect it in this tall dark skinny cases."

That's not a consideration unique to the .32-20 or Bullseye. I load light charges of propellants in many other calibers, both rifle and pistol. What I always do is to charge 50 empty cases in a loading block using my Lyman powder measure. Before inserting and seating bullets, I use a small flashlight to look into each and every charged case first, no matter what caliber, to determine if a double charge (or no charge) condition exists.

Here's another concern that happened to another long time reloader who wrecked his 32-20 Smith. He carefully loaded an entire box of 32-20 rounds with 13 grains of powder, thinking that his scale was set at 3 grains. The charges still did not come all that close to filling the case. Split the cylinder and bent the top strap. I suspect he won't repeat that mistake...

 

[Rickkster]

Pics of the barrel on my four inch HE

I didn't feel like taking any pictures of this yesterday. The harder opening and closing of the cylinder now seems to be caused by the end of the ejector rod dragging on the lug on the barrel. If you look at the best close-up I could get of that area, the locking bolt looks like is is really far out of the lug when the cylinder is closed now, and the end of the rod is pretty tight against the lug. It wasn't like that before. So, how bad is this? Could some fitting be done or is my gun toast?

I am leaving for the Gunsmith's around 11:00 AM, so I guess we will see what he thinks.

Cheers,

Rick

 

[CptCurl]

Check to see if your ejector rod has worked its way out a bit. Yours will have a right-hand thread. Open the cylinder and see if you can tighten the rod into the ejector star by hand. If it has un-screwed a bit it is longer and will drag the lug as described. I bet this is the problem.

Also, while it's impossible to make an evaluation from the photos, I don't see any obvious rings, waves, or bulges on the outside of your barrel. That's encouraging!