S&W Custom Shop 642 Ideas

TheHobbyist

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Greetings,

I have been thinking that in the new year, 2013, I would like to have my 642 worked on by the S&W custom shop.

While it is there, are there any modifications S&W offers that you would advise to get? In terms of budget, I am willing to pay for quality work.


My regrets that I am not very familiar with their offerings.

Kind regards--
 
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An unlisted option, I believe, is to have your cylinder cut for moon clips. If this is a defense piece for you, I recommend it.
 
The 642 is an affordably-priced gun that's set up pretty good already for self-defense/ concealed carry use right from the factory. Is there something in particular that you want modified on the gun, or do you just want a "custom shop gun"? If that's the case, your question seems like a solution in search of a problem. It's pretty easy to run up a big bill with bells & whistles of questionable value. I'd leave it be.
 
The 642 is an affordably-priced gun that's set up pretty good already for self-defense/ concealed carry use right from the factory. Is there something in particular that you want modified on the gun, or do you just want a "custom shop gun"? If that's the case, your question seems like a solution in search of a problem. It's pretty easy to run up a big bill with bells & whistles of questionable value. I'd leave it be.
I'm with hotrod on that one. I'd say, spend the money on more ammo or toward another gun.
 
I've been carrying a 642 for the last four years. I don't think it needs any custom work. Spend the $ on practice ammo.
 
I have a 642 and used snap caps and dry fired it a lot and the action seems a lot smoother now. Hard to improve on it. I too would spend my money on grips or ammo.

_________
James
 
Aside from cutting it for moonclips, which is a personal preference, not much needs to be done IMO.
Maybe an action package depending on how you like the trigger pull.
I am not a big fan of porting, I don't think the factory offers it anyway.
 
I do think the 642 could use a trigger job, which is what I'm having done soon by a quality smith. I've found the 642 trigger pinches my finger, and they will smooth it out, polish it and reduce the pull weight. I have been assured it will be as crisp as glass.

If they can make my 642's trigger close to or as good as my LCR's (which it is currently not), it will be my primary carry gun.
 
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I do think the 642 could use a trigger job, which is what I'm having done soon by a quality smith. I've found the 642 trigger pinches my finger, and they will smooth it out, polish it and reduce the pull weight. I have been assured it will be as crisp as glass.

If they can make my 642's trigger close to or as good as my LCR's (which it is currently not), it will be my primary carry gun.
I'd get an itemized list of what the gunsmith will be doing. Is this a defense piece? If so, I'd keep the springs stock -- at minimum the mainspring -- to avoid any chance of a light strikes.

As for smoothing the contact points in the action: done by knowledgeable professional it's a good thing; the trigger doesn't get appreciably lighter (just a little), but does become noticeably smoother.

My groupings on a J-frame improved nicely following a gentle smoothing of the contact points and I highly recommend it..
 
I'd get an itemized list of what the gunsmith will be doing. Is this a defense piece? If so, I'd keep the springs stock -- at minimum the mainspring -- to avoid any chance of a light strikes.
Yes, it will be my SD gun, and I discussed my concerns with the gunsmith before hand if something were to ever come up in court if I ever had to use it for that purpose. He said I shouldn't have to worry as he won't reduce the trigger pull beyond a certain (legal) point, and that he is a certified master gunsmith.

He said that only issues that might raise some eyebrows is if I attempted to modify it myself.
 
Yes, it will be my SD gun, and I discussed my concerns with the gunsmith before hand if something were to ever come up in court if I ever had to use it for that purpose. He said I shouldn't have to worry as he won't reduce the trigger pull beyond a certain (legal) point, and that he is a certified master gunsmith.

He said that only issues that might raise some eyebrows is if I attempted to modify it myself.
I don't think your gunsmith is giving you good information. Unless there's a state or local law specific to your area, there's no such thing as a "legal point" beyond which a trigger pull weight cannot be reduced.

And insomuch as a (legally) modified gun might ever be an issue in a court of law (this is a heavily debated topic), it won't matter who did the modifications.

Suggest you find out exactly what your gunsmith is doing. If he plans on lightening the mainspring either through using a lighter aftermarket spring or (gulp) snipping coils, I'd request a return to stock unless you or he are willing to perform a lot of testing on whatever defense ammo you select to be certain the lightened mainspring will ignite the rounds every single time.
 
I don't think your gunsmith is giving you good information. Unless there's a state or local law specific to your area, there's no such thing as a "legal point" beyond which a trigger pull weight cannot be reduced.
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The gunsmith didn't actually use the term "legal". When I told him my concerns, he said he wouldn't reduce the pull beyond 3lbs, so I'm assuming this is well within "safe" range?

He did tell me exactly what he was going to do, but it might as well have been in Greek as I don't know the first thing about Gunsmithing. I will try to clarify a few things with him and make sure it will be a safe SD gun, but my main concern is that ugly, burnt looking trigger that pinches my finger. It has got to have something done about it. :mad:
 
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He must be talking about single action pull(ie 3lbs), not double action.
That's what I'm hoping, too, but of course, a 642 doesn't have single-action, so why was the gunsmith even talking about it?
 
I don't think your gunsmith is giving you good information.
If anyone's not giving good info it's me, as I don't know the first thing about Gunsmithing. I'm just trying to translate what I understood him say here. I will try to get better info before I go ahead and have the work done, and will let everyone know how it went and provide specific details and photos. Then, you can all proceed to tell me all the mistakes I made and how I should've done so and so and such and such. :confused:

As long as the physical trigger itself is smoothed out, polished and stops pinching my finger I'll be happy. All the other stuff about smoothing out the action, trigger pull, etc. is the other part of their complete "trigger job" package, which is included in the price. I might as well go ahead and have that done as well.
 
I'd have an action job but leave the stock mainspring and possibly go with a 15lb rebound spring, assuming that your particular gun still has a snappy trigger return with the lighter spring. Other that that, the one thing I'd want done to a SD 642 would be to improve the sights by having it converted to a Big Dot front sight. For me, the 642's main weakness is the front sight. Moonclips are nice, but for me at least, I don't see a lot of usefulness for SD since a spare loaded moonclip isn't terribly easy to carry. You don't want to just drop into a pocket due to the possiblity of it getting bent and tying up the gun when used. And for me, with the short stroke of the ejector rod on the 642 you kinda lose the ejection advantage enjoyed by the 625, or even the K and L frames that have the full length rod.

Sights and action job is all it takes to enhance the 642 for me.
 
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I made some changes to my 442 to compensate for a weakness I developed in my right hand due to neuropathy. I changed the grip to a pachmayr Compact clearanced for speedloaders, did a trigger job with an 11 pound rebound spring and as 8 pound main spring and added a Laserlyte laser. I can shoot it with either hand and I've never had a light primer strike, in fact it dents primers deeper than my wife's factory stock 66-3.
 

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