Primer Pocket Cleaning Questions
- Thread starter salemsm
- Start date
I used to clean primer pockets.....cause the books showed how. Somewhere along the line many thousands of rounds ago I figured out that it gained me nothing and I stopped. BTW shiny cases don't shoot a bit better than tarnished ones. Shiny are a little easier to find in the weeds and dirt.......... so I mostly shoot my "tactical tarnished" brass and enjoy the camo.
I tumble first then deprime. Why? Because I think thats the right way to do it. Running dirty brass thru a resizing die just doesn't seem to be a good idea. If I spray lube the cases they will go back in for a short tumble. I don't see why anyone would want to eliminate a step, how much trouble is it to dump the brass in a tumbler and flip a switch. I usually do clean my primer pockets but that's because I'm retired and have the time and it gave me an excuse to buy a new toy, Lyman case prep machine. Not a hard and fast rule though, if I don't feel like I don't.
andyo5
Member
If I get the brass new, I generally do not deprime and clean before loading. If it is recovered range brass, I usually do.
I used to 'uniform' the primer pockets with a primer pocket cutting tool. I discontinued this when I found that it caused primer leakage, especially in autopistol brass; which resulted in pitting around the firing pin hole in the pistol. Forget using a screw driver on your primer pockets. If you must clean them, deprime then clean with crushed walnut media. Don't do anything that will deform or enlarge the primer pocket
I used to 'uniform' the primer pockets with a primer pocket cutting tool. I discontinued this when I found that it caused primer leakage, especially in autopistol brass; which resulted in pitting around the firing pin hole in the pistol. Forget using a screw driver on your primer pockets. If you must clean them, deprime then clean with crushed walnut media. Don't do anything that will deform or enlarge the primer pocket
I've been reloading since '66 and just recently started to clean the primer pockets. I'm retired and have plenty of free time between weekly range visits to relax and take my time to reload. I enjoy the time spent. Does it make any difference - clean vs. dirty? Not a bit!
I have only been reloading for 2 years now but the only work done on primer pockets is removing fatory crimped primers re forming the pocket to ease the next time. I use a home made rig to remove them so not to over stress my de caping/ resizing die. always clean after remove ing primer a small punch is used to remove walnut media out of picky but is as clean as i see fit after that
fear the free
fear the free
scooter123
Member
I've found the Federal Champion from Walmart to have the easiest to clean brass and primer pockets of anything I've shot.
My procedure for cleaning is two 8 minutes cycles in a heated Ultrasonic 30% Vinegar and water bath, neutralize, rinse and oven dry. Then it's size and de-cap, another two cycle run through the ultrasonic, and then finally a bit of time in a vibrating tumbler to put a bit of a polish on the brass. For relatively short handgun casings like the 45 ACP the end result is nearly as clean as new brass, For deep casings like 38 spl. they aren't sparking new but certainly clean enough to reload. Primer pockets also come out clean enough that I don't see any need to do anything with them.
BTW, it's advisable to clean your brass BEFORE sizing and depriming. The reason for this is to clean off any fouling on the outside of the casing so that you reduce the wear on your sizing die. Even if you have carbide dies it's still a good idea, because that fouling can be a bit like sandpaper in it's effect on any sizing die material.
My procedure for cleaning is two 8 minutes cycles in a heated Ultrasonic 30% Vinegar and water bath, neutralize, rinse and oven dry. Then it's size and de-cap, another two cycle run through the ultrasonic, and then finally a bit of time in a vibrating tumbler to put a bit of a polish on the brass. For relatively short handgun casings like the 45 ACP the end result is nearly as clean as new brass, For deep casings like 38 spl. they aren't sparking new but certainly clean enough to reload. Primer pockets also come out clean enough that I don't see any need to do anything with them.
BTW, it's advisable to clean your brass BEFORE sizing and depriming. The reason for this is to clean off any fouling on the outside of the casing so that you reduce the wear on your sizing die. Even if you have carbide dies it's still a good idea, because that fouling can be a bit like sandpaper in it's effect on any sizing die material.
Salesman; This is an old age question, never answered. I never did before I retired now I do since I got a little motor machine to do it I does case mouths also. Saves an old reloaders Arthritic fingers.
reloader7.62
Member
I guess I'm old school and probably want ever change,I reload a couple hundred cases at the most in one given setting. I always clean my brass before resizing and deprime afterwards and all my case prep is done in stages anyways so cleaning primer pockets is just another step.
I clean my primer pocket on both rifle and pistol cases before seating a new primer. It may be unnecessary as some say but by doing so it certainty want ever become an issues with any of my reloads.
I clean my primer pocket on both rifle and pistol cases before seating a new primer. It may be unnecessary as some say but by doing so it certainty want ever become an issues with any of my reloads.
I don't clean primer pockets and have never had a problem in 45 years of reloading. Actually if I am using a progressive press I inspect the cases and make sure there isn't a smaller case hidden inside, as I drop them into my feed tubes and don't touch them again until they are loaded and ready for final inspection.
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vtecwil
Member
I've been reloading since the mid 90's . Never cleaned a primer pocket . Ammo shoots just fine . Using a turret press to load 45 acp and 45 super .
I agree wholeheartedly. Tarnished brass does not have any effect on TC sizers either. If they are dirty like muddy salvage brass I'll wash them in dish washing detergent and rinse them in a collendar under fresh water, decap and then allow them to air dry. I of course inspect to make sure there isn't gravel lodged inside. I too am shooting brass that is tarnished a gorgeous shinny black.
I agree wholeheartedly. Tarnished brass does not have any effect on TC sizers either. If they are dirty like muddy salvage brass I'll wash them in dish washing detergent and rinse them in a collendar under fresh water spray, decap and then allow them to air dry. I of course inspect to make sure there isn't gravel lodged inside. I too am shooting brass that is tarnished a gorgeous shinny black.
Size dirty
A FAQ on Lee Precision's site states resizing before cleaning/tumbling is best as the soot acts to reduce friction/scratches when using a tungsten carbide die, vs. clean brass. Obviously you wouldn't want sand & grit on them, just the usual blow-by residue, as I take it. Works for me.
A FAQ on Lee Precision's site states resizing before cleaning/tumbling is best as the soot acts to reduce friction/scratches when using a tungsten carbide die, vs. clean brass. Obviously you wouldn't want sand & grit on them, just the usual blow-by residue, as I take it. Works for me.
I run my brass through walnut before resizing ( I hate poking it out of the flash holes),after depriming it goes back in the tumbler with a solution of water and bar keepers friend followed by a good rinse of clean water.
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