Gunsmith says "stay away from CLP." Really?

The only thing I can personally warn you away from as far as polymer gun parts is, Gun Scrubber in the aerosol can. I don't know if it will harm polymer but, I do know it will destroy plastic parts.

Many many moons ago, I had 2 30 round mags for my Ruger 10/22. Somebody had suggested the "Gun Scrubber" to clean my mags with since they were glued together and pretty much "non serviceable". It fused the followers to the feed lips, rendering both mags unusable.
 
Wow, I just read my last post. I need to take a break. I honestly didn't mean it to come off that harsh. Sorry fellas.

No worries Rast. MHO? Your last sentence in the rant says it all. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
 
I seem to remember that in order for the govt to purchase anything, the specs had to be put out for bid. Unless you or your unit was somehow exempt from this requirement and allowed to sole source, the lowest bid won. Govt gun cleaner might not be the best, but it was the cheapest!
 
I thought this thread was "stay away from LCP" and started reading it to see why a gunsmith didn't like this little Ruger 380! I guess its time for new reading glasses. For what its worth, I'm a Hoppes #9 man myself.
 
The only thing I can personally warn you away from as far as polymer gun parts is, Gun Scrubber in the aerosol can. I don't know if it will harm polymer but, I do know it will destroy plastic parts.

B-C makes a "Synthetic Safe" aerosol that works well.

Another to stay away from is Breakfree Powder Blast. It contains an ingredient that attacks plastic shotgun wad residue. The overspray makes a real mess of any plastic you might have laying around.:mad:
 
More than once when I was a boy I seen my dad give his guns a "Hot water treatment". I have several of his with no rust. One, his shotgun. Dad and mom dropped a car in 15 feet through the ice on a lake. The shotgun and car was retreived a week later. Dad took it apart, gave it the hot water treatment before oiling it and that gun has no rust.
 
Wow, I just read my last post. I need to take a break. I honestly didn't mean it to come off that harsh. Sorry fellas.

Too late. You crossed the Cat, now you will suffer the consequences.

Litter and hairballs for you, sir!

;)

Don't sweat it. I get that way at times, myself.
 
I don't know what the service has switched to since 86, but during my time using anything other than the issued Breakfree CLP (now known as Safari Breakfree CLP, apparently) to maintain service-issue small arms was a quick way to earn some hostile words from the armorer & a possible office hours. Especially Hoppe's #9, which was called out and reviled by name in the TM's.

But it's been a long time. products change, thinking changes, alloys & such change.

I still use Breakfree, and have never had an issue. Some nitro solvent on really grubby areas on occasion. I like the fact that it doesn't smell; WD40 has a strong odor, and the smell of burning ATF or engine oil makes me think subconsciously that repairs are needed.
 
I'm going to find out what cleaners/protectants were used by the Swedish and Swiss armies in the 1920's and 30's, since the bores on those guns I have bought have been in spectacular condition. :cool:
 
CLP?

Nuts! All these years I thought it was:
CLR.jpg


No wonder I'm having maintenance issues.
 
Memories

As a boy, I remember my grandfather just using Three-In-One oil on his 12 gauge side-by-side, the same oil my grandmother used in her sewing machine. Even today, more than 60 years later, one whiff of Three-In-One oil and I'm instantly transported back to the 50s and granddad's shotgun, which now rests in my gun safe.
 
I can't believe in this day and age this subject is still floating around.

Some truths of life. CLP isn't a product, its a performance standard. Any one bidding on a government contract to supply it must prove it complies. If you were in the Army and used CLP, the exact product you were issued just depended upon what year it was, and who managed to supply it. Yes, it smells because it wasn't mandated the supplier used the same formula, just that it complied with the performance specification. I've never used any of it I considered to be "bad".

Gunsmiths that tell you not to use it might just have an underlying motive, and there is no truthfullness standard applied to gunsmiths. I'd suggest that some of them lie to gain more business.

On guns I'm putting up for an extended period of time (which I define as me not planning on shooting for at least a week) I use CLP Collectors. Yes, it does dry to a waxy finish. Big deal. I have powder solvent that will remove it in a few seconds.

On to another fallacy used above, the WD40 one. Its the very best first aid for a wet firearm ever developed. Its never been sold as a lubricant, so its not really fair to expect lubrication properties from it. It was developed as a water displacing product (WD?). It does that really well. It also will work as a temporary penetrating oil. It won't last real long, but it will often free up something that is stuck. Its also available at almost every convenience store in the country. Summarize by saying it works and its available. Also, just for reference, its not the same formula as it was originally back in the 1960s (remember then?) It originally was a varnish based product. Think varnish, sticky, and eventually gummy. These days its based on Stoddard Solvent. Not a varnish. Instead of repeating false information, go buy a can and spray it on something. Then see if it becomes sticky or gummy.

I have a couple of old guns. Some are like new after decades. Hint: back then no one had wonder lube. They used whatever they had. It worked. Yes, grandma's sewing machine oil worked just fine then, and it will now. Its not what you use, but that you use it religiously, every darn time. Years ago I adopted a plan. Every darn time I bought a new to me gun (or a new gun) I took it apart to see what's inside. I've found and corrected all sorts of evil. Even new S&Ws have terrible stuff inside. The worst was my 337. It was bleeding green blood when brand new. And it was gritty to boot. I opened it up and had way too much oil inside, plus metal cuttings. No one at the factory seems to have bothered to clean it prior to assembly or shipping. And I once scored a great deal on a non-functional Triple Lock. Inside I found the action totally gummed with something sticky. I'm guessing bacon grease, but I have no way of telling.

I don't use action cleanier. But I do used some automotive brake cleaner on occasion. Just not near grips or plastic. Once I managed to get all the evil stuff out, a quick shot of RemOil made it work slick as I could imagine. No, I'm not promoting RemOil because its probably too thin for some applications. But I'm lazy and it was on my workbence, within reach.

I've never found a "gun specific" lubricant that doesn't work. I see no reason to pay premium prices for some wonder lube. My plans don't involve me not cleaning and putting a gun in a dry place. And I'm even so old and grumpy that I inspect my guns fairly frequently.
 
As I was taught long ago, even used automobile drain oil will work, you just have to use it correctly and within its limitations.
Rem Oil? Great stuff! Hoppes? Great stuff. It'll all work when correctly used.
A friend of mine uses what he says it the actual stuff issued to GIs in WWII. All I know is that he IS a gunsmith, and what he does, works.
My former employer's armorer commanded CLP when it first became available and drummed into us that the instructions clearly said "Shake well." If you don't, it's no better than used drain oil, he said. Shake it up and apply as directed and it is mil-spec.
In my experience, cleaning and lubricating is a process, not an end.
 
Break-Free CLP "bad" for your firearms? "Inferior" to other products with flashier marketing? I mustn't have gotten the memo... I've used it for years on ALL my firearms and even in non-firearm applications (e.g. door hinges) and couldn't be happier.

Yeah, yeah... It may not be the world's greatest lubricant and is arguably a so-so cleaner, but it's an outstanding rust preventative and years of real world testing have proven this over and over again. Best of all, it's widely available; no need to order it from some obscure boutique on the internet.

Go ahead and scrounge for G96 Synthetic if you want the "genuine" USGI CLP that meets current military specs, but Break Free works perfectly well for me.

P.S. It's not a bad thing Safariland dropped PTFE from the formula. Teflon in lubricants is more of a marketing gimmick than anything.
 
I use CLP and have good luck with it. I've tried others and have stuck with CLP. If my M&P22 gets a leaded barrel from bad ammo I use Hoppes Elite bore cleaner and the rest CLP.
I don't know that any one is much better than another. What ever works for you.
 
On to another fallacy used above, the WD40 one.
As long as we're clearing up myths and legends, let's fix a couple of these as well.

The formula has not changed since its inception in 1953.

It is promoted as a lubricant. Look at just about any can and you'll find the word "Lubricates" right on it. On the website, the first of the 5 basic functions is Lubricates: Learn More About the WD-40 Product Family Including Smart Straw and No-Mess Pen

Here are some more fun facts about WD-40: WD-40 Facts & Myths | WD-40 Ingredients
 
Hogwash!!! Pure drivel. Just because you haven't seen something doesn't mean it doesn't exist. There are scads of scientific tests on cleaners, lubricants and protectors. There are many more "anecdotal" tests run by forum members from many boards. Here's one you should seriously look at: Results of gun care product evaluation | Mossberg Owners

Drivel? I was talking about chain "lube" here. Do you know anything about it? Did you read the comment to which you were responding?
 

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