I enjoy reading all of the expert advice and this post kinda bothers me. I want to purchase a new Smith either an m&p or a shield. It seems a lot of people have feed issues and jams, I guess I'm old school because all of my older Smith's have been flawless out the box, I would hate to see a police department outfitting their officers with a weapon that may or may not function when needed. I am getting second thoughts on a new Smith Auto.....
On average how many rounds to break in an M&P 9
- Thread starter Acrimsontide
- Start date
RalphMP9FS
Member
I don't blame you one bit, but IMO, you'll need to run at least 400 rounds through it to smooth over any rough areas or tight machine tolerances. Mine ran like a precision watch at the range this past Friday, but that was after 400 fired rounds and 68 hand cycled rounds.
Not a break-in issue
I have an M&P 45 that worked 100% out of the box. The only failures I had were with hand loads in which I inadvertently loaded some high primers.
As you're talking about a break in period, I presume the gun is new and not used. Your failure rate is far to high to be a break in issue.
A feeding issue is in the inter-relationship of the magazine/ammo/feedramp. Smokestack jams could be a problem with the ammo, ejector, recoil spring, lubrication or all four.
That so many things appear to be wrong tells me that you should try different ammo and perhaps have someone else try it.
When chambering a round, be sure to allow the slide to ride home unfettered, at full velocity. Don't ride the slide. Guns generally don't like that.
I have an M&P 45 that worked 100% out of the box. The only failures I had were with hand loads in which I inadvertently loaded some high primers.
As you're talking about a break in period, I presume the gun is new and not used. Your failure rate is far to high to be a break in issue.
A feeding issue is in the inter-relationship of the magazine/ammo/feedramp. Smokestack jams could be a problem with the ammo, ejector, recoil spring, lubrication or all four.
That so many things appear to be wrong tells me that you should try different ammo and perhaps have someone else try it.
When chambering a round, be sure to allow the slide to ride home unfettered, at full velocity. Don't ride the slide. Guns generally don't like that.
NoogMan
Member
I wouldn't send it in just yet. I had a similar situation with TWO brand new Shields I purchased for the wife and I in June (both guns produced in May). Out of the first 50 rounds, I had about 6-8 Fte, stovepipes, ftf. This was about equal between BOTH guns. After about 100 rounds, and up until now (at around 500 rounds per gun), they have been FLAWLESS.
After bringing them home the first day with issues, I noticed the feed ramp on both were not smooth, and had a lot of melonite coating. I didn't polish them, but I did clean the ramps and headed to the range again after another good cleaning of both guns. Again, since then, they've been 100% flawless.
I bought a M&P full size 9 in July, and it's been flawless from the first shot, and I noticed the feed ramp on the full size was polished very well compared to the Shields straight outta the factory box. However, I've been shooting 124gr freedom through it from day one. The heavier loads tend to cycle the gun better (which is what I read). Maybe a heavier load will help the gun loosen up some for you. I wouldn't give up yet...I think the gun just needs some more rounds through it.
I prefer to think of it as...."it either works, or it doesn't"....and obviously your gun DOES work most of the time, give it time to get the kinks worked out and see what happens.
Keep us posted!
After bringing them home the first day with issues, I noticed the feed ramp on both were not smooth, and had a lot of melonite coating. I didn't polish them, but I did clean the ramps and headed to the range again after another good cleaning of both guns. Again, since then, they've been 100% flawless.
I bought a M&P full size 9 in July, and it's been flawless from the first shot, and I noticed the feed ramp on the full size was polished very well compared to the Shields straight outta the factory box. However, I've been shooting 124gr freedom through it from day one. The heavier loads tend to cycle the gun better (which is what I read). Maybe a heavier load will help the gun loosen up some for you. I wouldn't give up yet...I think the gun just needs some more rounds through it.
I prefer to think of it as...."it either works, or it doesn't"....and obviously your gun DOES work most of the time, give it time to get the kinks worked out and see what happens.
Keep us posted!
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Has anyone ever got a response from Smith&Wesson, they sound like a typical car salesman, just send it back and we will see what we can do, I for one if my bacon is on the line I want to know for sure that the product they make will do what it is designed for...
RalphMP9FS
Member
I really think if S&W spent just 3 minutes hand polishing/smoothing the top barrel hood machine marks, you would never here about new out of the box failure to feed problems, just my opinion.
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gordon21
Member
In order to eliminate the operator error portion, have someone else fire the gun 20-25 times. Proper grip on the gun is crucial. My wife used to limp wrist a M&P. I told her to death grip it. problem solved. Some guns are more sensitive than others to grip. especially depending upon the ammo. Limp grip and weak ammo=problems.
Hot ammo will take care of some grip issues since the slide is being slammed back so hard.
If another shooter has the same issues, then use the above suggestions and finally warranty work as the LAST solution.
Hot ammo will take care of some grip issues since the slide is being slammed back so hard.
If another shooter has the same issues, then use the above suggestions and finally warranty work as the LAST solution.
rcpilot44
Member
I bought an M&P 9 a couple of months ago. I have shot about 1000 rounds through it and have never had any issues with it.. Next time you are at the range, maybe you should let one of the range worker try your gun out. Then you could rule out user error..
KnightsFan
Member
I wouldn't pay much attention to these posts. Even if you see a dozen in a few months think about the number of people not having issues with it. In fact just look at this thread, plenty of us haven't had a single issue for this one owner's problems.
kthom
Member
First post here ... been a lurker for some time. It's been my experience with S/A pistols of any make that it's important to really clean the sticky gunk off the entire thing and then lubing it properly with decent lube before heading to the range. While you have the barrel out, take some of the ammo you intend to fire at the range and drop a few of them into the chamber of the gun. If they don't completely seat without help, your ammo is questionable. Standard FMJ ammo is probably going to feed the best, especially at first, but I am never put off if I have a few failures in the first 2 or 3 hundred rounds. A firearm is mechanical, and it's great to have one fire without failure right off the bat. But firearms are mechanical, and there can be issues with anything mechanical. But until you've put that many rounds through a new one, it's hard to immediately fault the gun. Ammo (bullet profile and seating depth along with crimping) and magazines are likely first suspects. Depending on experience, operator error can also be a definite factor.
An older and wiser fellow than me gave me this advice, and I've found it to be excellent with any new or even a used S/A gun that is new to you. Before you go to the range, load all magazines you have on hand for the gun completely full and let them sit for at least 24 hours, better for 48 hours. Unload them slowly and carefully by hand and observe what happens. Reload them again and observe how that works. Check the feed lips for obvious signs of something out of spec, such as improperly shaped metal or burrs or sharp edges on the inside of the feed lips. Doesn't take much to interfere with the loading process. Leaving the mags loaded for 48 hours will allow the magazine spring to take a lot of it's initial "set" that occurs during the initial breakin period. You'll get a more consistent operation of the mag spring by doing this.
Secondly, after cleaning and lubing, open and lock the slide and leave it that way for the same period of time. During that time, you can spend a few minutes once in a while just operating the slide back and forth, not letting it slam closed on an empty chamber, but just full travel back and forth to begin to burnish the contact points between the slide and frame. When you get tired, leave the slide locked open with the springs compressed.
Doing these two things will make a difference when you go out to shoot the gun for the first time. If there are still problems, eliminate one possibility at a time so you'll know where the problem is. If you have a good friend or an acquaintance who is an experienced shooter, allow them to shoot the gun and see what happens. Ammo is not for give away, but it's important not to form an opinion about any of it until several different brands and types have been fired. That's especially important for the expensive stuff that you intend to carry for personal protection. A couple hundred rounds of that fired without mishap is much better than a couple of twenty round boxes. Yeah, I know that costs a couple hundred dollars, but if your ammo of choice doesn't work in your gun, it ain't worth a hardly to you! Differences in ammo are subtle. For example, I routinely have had some failures to feed, etc with the Freedom Munitions reman, as well as some of my own reloads. I've never had a problem with the new stuff from FM. Some hollowpoints just don't work well in some guns. FWIW, I have had almost no problems with Golden Saber ammo functioning well in any of the several calibers I've fired of it. Function reliability is not an arguable requirement, but almost any "good" quality ammo will do a very similar job IF it functions your firearm and IF you can deliver it to an important location on a body. Penetration to reach vital body parts is critical regardless of the size of the bullet or the expected or hoped for expansion of it (or not). Again, FWIW, my opinions here have come as the result of being present at a goodly number of events where someone got shot (and or missed!). Hope this food for thought may help. Thanks for reading and for allowing me to participate.
So long ... kthom
An older and wiser fellow than me gave me this advice, and I've found it to be excellent with any new or even a used S/A gun that is new to you. Before you go to the range, load all magazines you have on hand for the gun completely full and let them sit for at least 24 hours, better for 48 hours. Unload them slowly and carefully by hand and observe what happens. Reload them again and observe how that works. Check the feed lips for obvious signs of something out of spec, such as improperly shaped metal or burrs or sharp edges on the inside of the feed lips. Doesn't take much to interfere with the loading process. Leaving the mags loaded for 48 hours will allow the magazine spring to take a lot of it's initial "set" that occurs during the initial breakin period. You'll get a more consistent operation of the mag spring by doing this.
Secondly, after cleaning and lubing, open and lock the slide and leave it that way for the same period of time. During that time, you can spend a few minutes once in a while just operating the slide back and forth, not letting it slam closed on an empty chamber, but just full travel back and forth to begin to burnish the contact points between the slide and frame. When you get tired, leave the slide locked open with the springs compressed.
Doing these two things will make a difference when you go out to shoot the gun for the first time. If there are still problems, eliminate one possibility at a time so you'll know where the problem is. If you have a good friend or an acquaintance who is an experienced shooter, allow them to shoot the gun and see what happens. Ammo is not for give away, but it's important not to form an opinion about any of it until several different brands and types have been fired. That's especially important for the expensive stuff that you intend to carry for personal protection. A couple hundred rounds of that fired without mishap is much better than a couple of twenty round boxes. Yeah, I know that costs a couple hundred dollars, but if your ammo of choice doesn't work in your gun, it ain't worth a hardly to you! Differences in ammo are subtle. For example, I routinely have had some failures to feed, etc with the Freedom Munitions reman, as well as some of my own reloads. I've never had a problem with the new stuff from FM. Some hollowpoints just don't work well in some guns. FWIW, I have had almost no problems with Golden Saber ammo functioning well in any of the several calibers I've fired of it. Function reliability is not an arguable requirement, but almost any "good" quality ammo will do a very similar job IF it functions your firearm and IF you can deliver it to an important location on a body. Penetration to reach vital body parts is critical regardless of the size of the bullet or the expected or hoped for expansion of it (or not). Again, FWIW, my opinions here have come as the result of being present at a goodly number of events where someone got shot (and or missed!). Hope this food for thought may help. Thanks for reading and for allowing me to participate.
So long ... kthom
The answer should be zero, then you make a personal call on how many rounds you need to prove the gun's reliability. An M&P is a service-style pistol and should not require the type of "break-in" that some competition guns need to mate extremely tightly fitted components.
M&Ps typically function without problems out of the box. If there are problems out of the box, production debris not cleaned out of the gun would be an immediate suspect, followed by bad or broken parts. Production debris might be dislodged by shooting the gun, but bad or broken parts will not fix themselves through continued shooting. Diagnose the problem as thoroughly as you can and include that information when you return the gun for warranty repair.
I am perplexed by the advice to avoid warranty repairs and either sell the gun (presumably at a loss) or relegate it to non-serious use. You bought a new gun which, by definition, is supposed to work properly; S&W is obligated to make sure your gun does work properly, either through repair or replacement. If S&W repairs your gun and it works properly through whatever number of rounds is your reliability standard, all is well and move on. If S&W cannot repair your gun to work properly after a couple of tries, insist on a new replacement gun. Either way, you are entitled to what you paid for - a properly functioning gun.
RalphMP9FS
Member
The last two posts were excellent advice!
BobC357
Member
When I got mine, I stripped it, cleaned and lubed it. I put it all back together and loaded the three 17 round magazines completely and let them sit. A few days later, I ran 100 rounds of 124 gr jacketed through it without any faults. By 500 rounds, things started smoothing out nicely. By the time I put 2500 through it, it was right at home.
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Edit: I will add that the 115gr threw brass all over the place including right at me. My M&P 9 FS loves the 124 gr so that's what I use. Brass is tossed properly and away from me.
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Edit: I will add that the 115gr threw brass all over the place including right at me. My M&P 9 FS loves the 124 gr so that's what I use. Brass is tossed properly and away from me.
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OP
Acrimsontide
Member
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Thanks for all the replies. I put another 100 rounds through the M&P today and it was a little better but still experienced 10 malfunctions of various kinds. I am the range master at my range and have been shooting auto pistols for 45 years so I didn't think it was my grip. Just to be sure I had another experienced shooter fire it today and 3 of the failure to feeds occurred during his shooting. I also used 2 new mags and still have the same problems.
RalphMP9FS
Member
Send it back to S&W. I had a similar issue with a 1911SC and was getting sour on the gun. I sent it back, they worked on the feed ramp and barrel, may have even been a new barrel, and a few other things. Got the gun back and it's great.
What grain bullet are you using are you still using the 115 s
erick1987
Member
i have a core 9mm. 500 rounds through it without a malfunction. as others have stated check your grip and clean it. then send back to S&W if problems continue. there should not have to be any mods or polishing done to a new gun to make it run. as for how many rounds......just one. the test fire round. 
Rastoff
US Veteran
At the time of this posting, only gc70 has answered the OP question correctly. There is no break in period for an M&P pistol. The manual will tell you all you need to know about that and you won't find a "break in period" listed in it.
If you call S&W they may suggest putting a few more rounds through it first. That is a cop out. The gun should work with the ammo you used right from the first round.
If you call S&W they may suggest putting a few more rounds through it first. That is a cop out. The gun should work with the ammo you used right from the first round.
You wouldn't be the first I've seen with that level of experience that had a problem with their grip. However, in your case, I don't believe it's grip related either. A loose grip will not cause a fail to feed. It might cause a type II malfunction. Neither will it cause a fail to extract. No, what you have is a gun problem. I'd send it back to S&W post haste.
I also agree, I feel there should be absolutely no break in period for a firearm, Smith should start doing more quality control with their factories instead of send it back and we will warranty it, if their product is not reliable they need to step up a lot more with testing at the factory.
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