1971 Chief's Special Model 36, general questions

[Boettner]

Recently purchased immaculate '71 Chief's Special, unfired, with box and paperwork.

Is it recommended to open up the side plate to inspect the internals, clean, and or lube?

This firearm was part of a collection, however I intend to carry it daily.

Should I reconsider carrying a 40+ year old snubby?

Thanks for your replies, and please pardon me if this is posted in the wrong area or contains duplicate info, this is my second post and I'm still learning the ropes of the forum.

 

[JP@AK]

Is it recommended to open up the side plate to inspect the internals, clean, and or lube?

Unless there is a known problem, that should not be necessary. I have several dozen Smiths and I've had the sideplates off of maybe three of them in all these years.

Should I reconsider carrying a 40+ year old snubby?

I can't imagine why. The one that goes everywhere with me left the factory in 1964! I sometimes carry a 2" M&P that shipped in 1947. With proper care, S&W handguns don't get "old."

Welcome to the best Forum on the Internet!

 

[A10]

Welcome to the Forum!

I have a similar one, and I carry it with confidence. Enjoy your Jframe!

 

[DAinTX]

100% agree with JP.

 

[4011]

When in doubt whip off the plate and look. Please use the best screwdriver you own. Make sure it fits the screws.

 

[pawncop]

My second gun is a 36 from 1969. Cosmetically challenged but solid. Shot 100/100 to qualify. No worries here.

 

[bananaman]

Welcome to the Forum!!! I got my 1st J Frame about 6 weeks ago. A model 36. Mine is a newer example. (1981) I would carry mine once I get my CCW. It is fun to shoot. Shooting a snubbie well takes more practice compared to a longer barrel gun. Even if you are not an ace photographer, these guys want to see pics! Enjoy your 36! Bob

 

[Boettner]

Much thanks

Thank you for welcoming me to the forum and for the quick replies and helpful advice.

I will post photos shortly. I think you'll agree it's a beautiful gun. I was told it was part of a collection and that they were mantle pieces, of course that's the story.

 

[kaaskop49]

With respect to an above poster, I would refrain from taking off the sideplate unless I knew how to do so properly.

If you have any concerns or do not feel comfortable, I would take the gun to a competent, recommended gunsmith, spend a few bucks and have the 'smith tell you that everything is in order.

However, sounds like you have a beautiful revolver. Welcome to the Forum.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

 

[Boettner]

With respect to an above poster, I would refrain from taking off the sideplate unless I knew how to do so properly.

If you have any concerns or do not feel comfortable, I would take the gun to a competent, recommended gunsmith, spend a few bucks and have the 'smith tell you that everything is in order.

However, sounds like you have a beautiful revolver. Welcome to the Forum.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

Thanks for the reply. With a gun like this, and with my limited experience removing the side plate, I tend to agree with you that I should seek the assistance of a reputable gunsmith.

 

[CoMF]

Since you stated it's NIB and unfired, here's what I would do:

Get some Break-Free CLP, and hose the internals with it. Let sit for at least a couple hours. Hose again and then blow out all of the excess with compressed air. That should be all it takes. For lubrication, apply a single drop to the end of a Q-tip and use it to lube all moving parts. Less is more. Lube things like the ejector rod/star assembly very, very sparingly.

I used that cleaning process with my "gently used" M36 when I first bought it, and it got out 99.9% of the crud that was inside of it. The really nice thing about CLP is that it seems to help keep fouling from sticking in the first place.

 

[Boettner]

Since you stated it's NIB and unfired, here's what I would do:

Get some Break-Free CLP, and hose the internals with it. Let sit for at least a couple hours. Hose again and then blow out all of the excess with compressed air. That should be all it takes. For lubrication, apply a single drop to the end of a Q-tip and use it to lube all moving parts. Less is more. Lube things like the ejector rod/star assembly very, very sparingly.

I used that cleaning process with my "gently used" M36 when I first bought it, and it got out 99.9% of the crud that was inside of it. The really nice thing about CLP is that it seems to help keep fouling from sticking in the first place.

That's great advice, thanks. Of course this method requires I remove the side plate. With proper S&W screw drivers, which I assume are fitted hollow ground screwdrivers, there is little chance I would "bugger" up the screws, right?

The gunsmith option sounds great because I have some recourse if there is a mistake, or damage. I have taken the side plate off of J-frames in the past (442, etc.) and since you're not talking about removing parts - I feel I could do this, however my biggest concerns is damaging screws and finish.

Your thoughts?

 

[JP@AK]

Of course this method requires I remove the side plate.

Not so. You can spray the CLP down into the works by cocking the hammer and spraying downward into the inside of the revolver in front of the hammer. That will get it to the guts without removing anything.
However, I would remove the stocks first, just to keep stuff off the wood.

 

[Boettner]

Not so. You can spray the CLP down into the works by cocking the hammer and spraying downward into the inside of the revolver in front of the hammer. That will get it to the guts without removing anything.
However, I would remove the stocks first, just to keep stuff off the wood.

Awesome! Thanks

Funny, I was going to write something along the lines of "this may sound like a dumb question, but do I have to remove the sideplate?" Nope, instead I went on with a baseless assumption. Thanks again! I really appreciate it.

 

[A10]

That's great advice, thanks. Of course this method requires I remove the side plate. With proper S&W screw drivers, which I assume are fitted hollow ground screwdrivers, there is little chance I would "bugger" up the screws, right?

The gunsmith option sounds great because I have some recourse if there is a mistake, or damage. I have taken the side plate off of J-frames in the past (442, etc.) and since you're not talking about removing parts - I feel I could do this, however my biggest concerns is damaging screws and finish.

Your thoughts?

If you decide to remove the side plate DO NOT PRY IT OFF!!! Remove the grips and sideplate screws then tap the gun frame with the handle of the screwdriver, either on the grip portion of the frame or on the underside of the framevas you are holding the gun with the side plate facing up. The plate will vibrate off. Any othe way risks marring or warping the plate.

 

[shouldazagged]

Welcome from Louisville. You've acquired a fine little carry gun. I'm a Centennial guy myself, but I wouldn't hesitate a second to carry that 36.

 

[CoMF]

Not so. You can spray the CLP down into the works by cocking the hammer and spraying downward into the inside of the revolver in front of the hammer. That will get it to the guts without removing anything.
However, I would remove the stocks first, just to keep stuff off the wood.

^ What he said.

Edited to Add: As for lubrication, here's what I do with the stocks removed... I apply a very light film to the mainspring stirrup and rebound slide from inside the grip frame. I also apply light lubrication to the hand, cylinder stop, sliding hammer block, and the mating surfaces of the trigger and hammer with the hammer pulled back. If you're curious how to accomplish this, with an unloaded revolver (natch) and the cylinder open, pull the cylinder release back and then, while holding it, pull the hammer back. To lower the hammer, what I do is hold the cylinder release rearward again while carefully lowering the hammer. Otherwise, the release "snaps" back into position less than gracefully. I apply more light lubrication to the crane pivot, extractor and ejector rod lock, but I make sure to wipe off all excess lube from the ejector so that only the lightest layer of oil is left. It's hard to do, but I push and then gently pull the ejector star rearward and wipe it down with a microfiber cloth.

Hope this helps.

 

[chief38]

All I can give you is my personal opinion of course:

As far as carrying an older gun - DON'T hesitate at all!!! They are GREAT reliable guns!

When I get a new - to me (vintage ) gun the FIRST thing I do is completely disassemble the entire gun, inspect it clean and lubricate it. I can guarantee that a gun built in 1971 (43 years old) if nothing else is in need of a cleaning and lubrication - especially if you are going to rely on it for self defense. Someone who is thoroughly knowledgable with Smith Revolvers can perform the whole ball of wax in about a half hour assuming there are no problems with the gun. After that, you are good to go for many many years.

IF you do not want to attempt this because yourself because of lack of experience, then I can recommend another method that is efficient (obviously not quite as good) but will still be adequate.

Buy an Aerosol can of either Rig #2 Oil or Remoil. These two gun chem's are very thin, flow very well and will remove crud, clean, lube & protect. They also evaporate so you will not have oil leaking out of the gun for months to come - but they will leave lube and rust prevention behind. Spray the heck out of the gun through the hammer, trigger and cylinder stop openings until the liquid drips out clear. Also spray inside the cylinder's ejector rod channel. If you have an air compressor, gently blow all the excess liquid out and let dry. You will be good to go. Again, you won't be inspecting the inside of the gun, but if everything is working properly at least you will have a fairly clean ad lubricated gun.

 

[Boettner]

I was informed you folks like pictures, so I took some. Pardon my photography skills, please.
If I violated etiquette by posting too many photos please let me know and I'll refrain from doing it again, and I shall edit the post. Still new to this fantastic forum

 

[Boettner]

CoMF, and and Chief 38, thanks so much for the insight. I'm definitely weighing my options.

I noticed small amounts of surface rust, I was told 0000 steel wool or preferably bronze or brass with oil would do the trick and not damage the finish. I'll do a search and see what I find.

You can see in one of the photos where it appears the finish is checked, perhaps lightly pitted? Rust perhaps removed at some point.