Give Ruger a call, you might be surprised. In my opinion, they have the best customer service in the industry. Through carelessness, I put a scratch on my GP100. Called Ruger and told them what I did and they said "no problem, we'll take care of it for you". They had UPS at my door the next day and took care of everything on their dime.
GP100 vs 686
- Thread starter PurpleMountainOutdoors
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exdetsgt
Member
My first Smith was issued to me as a 21 year old deputy sheriff in California - a well-worn Model 10 with a 6" barrel. I was broke and really wanted a .357 magnum, just to be cool I suppose. During quals the instructor said, "You do pretty good with that, why don't you try out for the department competition team?" So I did. And made the team. I have no idea of my M10's history and didn't know enough about firearms to have benefited anyway. I have no idea what happened to my M10, for after 4 years with the department I left to go to college. Decades later and more LEO time and a lot more shooting time, I was at a friend's house and he showed me his father's guns and among them was a beat-up M10. I picked it up and it was truly deja vu. Then I took it out back and fired it. As others have pointed out, squeezing a truly great trigger is akin to a religious experience.
Currently I've been looking for another M10 from the 50's or 60's but none have come my way. Then I heard about the 586/686 and visited the local LGS to buy one. Next to it was a Ruger Match Champion in stainless. It was impressive and so was the the Smith, but I didn't like the blueing, which really wasn't the shiny polished blue that I'd come to expect. Rather a sort of dullish matte black. I tried the trigger on each; they seemed equal. So I bought the Ruger solely because it was a couple of hundred less than the Smith.
We'll see if I made a wise decision. So far I'm happy, but still look for an old Model 10...
Currently I've been looking for another M10 from the 50's or 60's but none have come my way. Then I heard about the 586/686 and visited the local LGS to buy one. Next to it was a Ruger Match Champion in stainless. It was impressive and so was the the Smith, but I didn't like the blueing, which really wasn't the shiny polished blue that I'd come to expect. Rather a sort of dullish matte black. I tried the trigger on each; they seemed equal. So I bought the Ruger solely because it was a couple of hundred less than the Smith.
We'll see if I made a wise decision. So far I'm happy, but still look for an old Model 10...
S&W SS Revolvers
Member
Never have fired a Ruger DA. I think they build a heckuva "Single Six" and Dad's .22 built in 1956 is in the safe. Only shot my Dad's P90 .45ACP maybe 100 rounds (not impressed-nor disappointed).
I guess it comes down to personal preference more that anything. Many on this forum have recently spoken of poor quality from S&W...I hate that. The 5 we/I own are spectacular...
Id say the buyer made a nice profit on that one!
keithherrington
Member
Yes, I've gone to the Dark Side
I'm a long time ardent S&W fan and have owned a bunch over the years, from full house Bowen customs to untouched NIB examples. Recently, I picked up a Ruger GP100 Master Champion and have been VERY impressed with it. First, the price. $700. Second, nothing needs to be done to it. The SA pull, while heavier than a Smith, is smooth and controllable. The DA pull is smooth, the proper weight and times early and consistently chamber to chamber. Lockup is tight, as is the B/C gap and cylinder float is none existent. The sights (fiber optic front with Novak rear) are perfectly regulated for 38 Special ammo, what most will use in competition. And last, the grip, while a bit none traditional is superb. It provides a grip angle approximately the same as a 1911 and absorbs recoil very well. I'm not going to sell any of my remaining S&Ws but this Ruger is an excellent addition to my arsenal.
Now, I agree that the GP100 MC is not as beautiful as the Model 27 shown below, but to deliberately misquote Stalin: "Performance has a quality all its own."
Keith
I'm a long time ardent S&W fan and have owned a bunch over the years, from full house Bowen customs to untouched NIB examples. Recently, I picked up a Ruger GP100 Master Champion and have been VERY impressed with it. First, the price. $700. Second, nothing needs to be done to it. The SA pull, while heavier than a Smith, is smooth and controllable. The DA pull is smooth, the proper weight and times early and consistently chamber to chamber. Lockup is tight, as is the B/C gap and cylinder float is none existent. The sights (fiber optic front with Novak rear) are perfectly regulated for 38 Special ammo, what most will use in competition. And last, the grip, while a bit none traditional is superb. It provides a grip angle approximately the same as a 1911 and absorbs recoil very well. I'm not going to sell any of my remaining S&Ws but this Ruger is an excellent addition to my arsenal.
Now, I agree that the GP100 MC is not as beautiful as the Model 27 shown below, but to deliberately misquote Stalin: "Performance has a quality all its own."
Keith
I had the same conundrum back in the day. I had a hard time between choosing the Colt King Cobra, Ruger GP-100, and S&W 686. I chose the Ruger and still have it to this day.
Kinda bothered me that I didn't have the Colt or S&W so........I went out and got those as well
If I were in your shoes, I would purchase the S&W first (only if it had the original wood stocks). You can always find the GP-100.
Kinda bothered me that I didn't have the Colt or S&W so........I went out and got those as well
If I were in your shoes, I would purchase the S&W first (only if it had the original wood stocks). You can always find the GP-100.
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TeaDub
Member
IMO, this thread is titled incorrectly. It should be "GP100 and 686". 
I own both and really enjoy them.
I own both and really enjoy them.
As you can see there's good comments and bad comments for both. I own both, there are great guns. Ruger vs Smith = Ford vs Chevy
You tell me which one is better. Ask a Ford guy if he'd buy a Chevy. Ask a Chevy guy if he'd buy a Ford.
You tell me which one is better. Ask a Ford guy if he'd buy a Chevy. Ask a Chevy guy if he'd buy a Ford.
I had the same dilemma. One difference was that the Ruger I was looking at was the GP 100 Match Champion which is a really nice gun. However, I still like the looks of S&W revolvers better. I ended up with the S&W 686+ Pro seven shot with a 5" slab barrel. It is a really nice gun, great trigger and very accurate. However, I will issue a warning, buying S&W guns may be habit forming. Because I like the classics, after that purchase I had to get a 4" nickel Model 27. And even though I don't need two .357s, I also want a blue Model 19 which would make three. On second thought, maybe you should get the Ruger and you won't be tempted by other Smiths. Regards, Jim
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Irn-Bru said "I'd take a pre-lock 686 over the GP100. Given the choice between a new lock 686 and the GP100, I'm buying the GP. Unfortunately the newer Smiths don't have the same quality as the older models." I would say that depends on what aspect of quality we are talking about. Granted, nothing matches the looks and beauty of the old revolvers. But from a functional and accuracy comparison, I have a new and old .357 (a 686+Pro 5" and a 4" Model 27) and the I think the 686+ is slightly more accurate than the 27. Both function flawlessly so I can't say one is better than the other and that the new one has poor quality. BTW, I have never even thought about using the lock and I don't even remember that it is there. Regards, Jim
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spad124
Member
Last week Bud's Gun Shop had trade in LEO M10s for a good price. Have them ship it to your local FFL. I bought one last year- ex Victoria Australia DOC, worn bluing, but still a great trigger!
And I have a 686-1 6" that I've had for 25 years. Although I won't trade or sell that one, I am now looking for a 4" GP100. I've liked the GPs, but wouldn't want to trade my 686. Just saving up the silvers and coppers.
spad124
Member
Before you make an assumption about Ruger, call them and send the gun in. A friend recently bought a well used Ruger Red Label 12 ga. The lever was to the right and barrel selector/safety was clearly well worn. Plus it had some minor rust on one of the barrels. Even though he was not the original ower (not sure how many owners the gun had) and the gun's problems were because of wear, Ruger replaced the safety, the internal springs, tightened up the lock block, and reblued the barrels--at no charge. My friend paid to ship the gun to Ruger, Ruger paid return shipping.
dakota1911
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I couldn't decide so I just ended up buying both years ago. They are range toys. I carry a Colt Commander in 45 during the week and a Ruger Blackhawk in 45LC if I boony bang on the weekend. These guys are just range toys.
3rdgeargrndrr
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I also have the GP100 and the SP101, compared to the 586 or 686, apples to oranges.
Research the thousands of other Ruger vs SW threads. They never ever end.
One thing I will add, SW usually have better resale value, Ruger has better customer service, not that it helps the decision any more
Research the thousands of other Ruger vs SW threads. They never ever end.
One thing I will add, SW usually have better resale value, Ruger has better customer service, not that it helps the decision any more
3rdgeargrndrr
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I couldn't decide so I just ended up buying both years ago. They are range toys. I carry a Colt Commander in 45 during the week and a Ruger Blackhawk in 45LC if I boony bang on the weekend. These guys are just range toys.
DONT shoot them side by side, as plinkers, the 686 will win everytime
exdetsgt
Member
In an earlier post I mentioned that I had always been a Smith&Wesson aficionado, that I had gone to my lgs to buy a 586/686 but noticed a Rugur GP100 Match Champion next to it and ended up buying it instead. The purchase may have been influenced by my SR1911CMD which has been a noteworthy performer. Anyway, although the revolver has been a joy to shoot I found something I didn't like: After shooting six rounds and pointing the muzzle skywards, rotating the cylinder out from the frame and pushing hard on the ejector rod the brass did not fully exit the cylinder. They came about half-way out, then I had to pull them free by hand.
I took it back to the lgs. They have a highly respected gunsmith on board. He took a handful of my expended brass (reload wadcutters) and, after experiencing the same thing, said, "It's new, it's made for competition so it's got tight tolerances. Don't worry, it'll get better."
Or words to that effect. He also said he had no idea about the reloads but added that I should shoot factory ammo next time for comparison.
A very good idea as the guy that gave me the reloads is no longer with us. I'm assuming they were standard .38 special stuff, but that remains just that; an assumption.
Which gets around to my question: is a tight cylinder to be expected, and will it "loosen" after more use?
I took it back to the lgs. They have a highly respected gunsmith on board. He took a handful of my expended brass (reload wadcutters) and, after experiencing the same thing, said, "It's new, it's made for competition so it's got tight tolerances. Don't worry, it'll get better."
Or words to that effect. He also said he had no idea about the reloads but added that I should shoot factory ammo next time for comparison.
A very good idea as the guy that gave me the reloads is no longer with us. I'm assuming they were standard .38 special stuff, but that remains just that; an assumption.
Which gets around to my question: is a tight cylinder to be expected, and will it "loosen" after more use?
ontargetagain
Member
Having been doing reloading with mixed brand brass I think you will find a variance in the characteristics of different brands of brass. If the rounds drop in freely things are likely OK. Remember that when you fire the round the brass swells to the chamber then contracts again, different brands of brass react slighty different to this action. Might also depend on how well those reloads were originally cleaned and how long they have sat around.
Sometimes too the chamber lips can be quite sharp and 'grab' a bit on the casings as they are extracted so inspect for any burrs that can be hanging up one or several chambers.
Karl
