JOHN ROSS 500! I need help putting your bullets and revolver together

[trowe2]

Hello,

This is my first post here, and I am posting because today I have become a proud owner of a beautiful John Ross 500. I'm not too keen on spending $60 for 20 rounds, so I've gone ahead and ordered brass and bullets for it and I'll only shoot what I load. I got excited while browsing matts bullets and saw he had a 565 gr round nose that he claims is a "John Ross Design." Well, I bought them without looking for load data first, and I can't find a whole lot of data. The brass will be here tomorrow, the bullets monday.

I would like to start loading on monday. I have a lot of local stores that deal in powder, so I'm looking for the right powder brand and load info to get started. I like the H110 (can't find it locally right now, I have to wait 2 weeks for a gun show), but I'm always afraid of underloading it. Since I have 0 load data to go off of, I don't want to go that route, except with perhaps a different bullet with a lot of load data.

If you have experience loading the 565 grain bullet, please let me know. I'm so excited to shoot this puppy (or should I say full grown rottweiler!), so any info is good!

Thanks all!


EDIT:


So I made a list of "magnum" powders that may be reasonably used for pushing the 565 grain bullet out of the barrel. Of those powders I found one locally: IMR 4227. I went around the web and a few reloading manuals and I made a spreadsheet of bullet weight and powder charge for starting and maximum loads. I plotted these values on a line and conducted a linear regression. You don't really need a degree in math or statistics to understand what this means; it is fairly straight forward. I'll perhaps explain it later. Anyways, after compiling about 20 data points, the minimum load line had an R^2 value of 0.94 and the maximum had an R^2 value of 0.89. This tells me that the bullet to charge ratio is somewhat constant, and the increase in bullet weight came with a linear decrease in powder charge. What I came up with was a starting load of 26 gr and a maximum load of 29 gr. (to be conservative).

I loaded 5 rounds with 26 gr of IMR 4227 and 5 rounds with 27 gr of IMR 4227. The difference between the two recoil wise were unnoticable. This is very likely due to the fact I spent all 10 shots trying to figure out how to grip the damn monster. The extraction process was noticably different, as the 26 gr loads slid out on their own and the 27 gr loads required standard amount of force that I'm used to with my highway patrolman shooting factory loads. Primers look fine, the cases looked straight throughout, everything looked good to go.

So if you are looking for loads with the 565 gr bullet, a starting weight of 27 grains is probably the best place to go. This is not a load for you to take your girlfriend shooting for the first time by any means. Again, thanks to everyone for all of their helpful comments!


EDIT EDIT:


By popular request, here is a photo.

 

[colt_saa]

With that projectile you are going to want to run 30 grains of H110.

Though I have found that above 500 grains I get a little bit better performance with WC860/AA1860 even though you need more of the powder. I would run 40 grains of AA1680 if you have it.

 

[gordyt]

Hey Trow2,

John Ross's website is apparently off-line. But you can view a snapshot of it via the wayback machine here. That is a link to a PDF of his FAQ.

It is an interesting read and he has a section on handloading that you might find useful.

 

[trowe2]

Hey Trow2,

John Ross's website is apparently off-line. But you can view a snapshot of it via the wayback machine here. That is a link to a PDF of his FAQ.

It is an interesting read and he has a section on handloading that you might find useful.

]

Thanks for sharing this with me! A stapled copy of this booklet came with the revolver, but its all crumpled up and folded. I didn't want to open it or turn the pages too much because it has John Ross' signature on it, and I don't want to mess it up too much :/

I have had a blast reading it though! He mentions that using a powder suitable for .223 at maximum case capacity (slightly, but not overly compressed is okay) will work for any load. The only .223 powder I have is varget, would this apply in my situation?

 

[roscoepc]

Why not contact Matt and ask him what he uses???

 

[trowe2]

Why not contact Matt and ask him what he uses???

Who is Matt and how do I contact him?

 

[Satoken]

Measure the seating depth of those bullets and determin approximate volume left in the case. Then fill it with SR4759. You'll have powerful, accurate load without too much pressure. If you are after accuracy, stick with standard rifle primer and adjust the powder for a few grains. You can use H322 the same way but won't be as accurate and will have some unburnt powder. Yet, it will be milder. These are the only powders I use for my JR500s.

 

[DonD]

Though I have found that above 500 grains I get a little bit better performance with WC860/AA1860 even though you need more of the powder. I would run 40 grains of AA1680 if you have it.

I would like to get some AA1680 to use in my Mini30, haven't found any in a couple years.

I always wonder why people want slugs heavier than the 440 gr factory weight? A heavy 440 gr hard cast load will penetrate a cape buffalo end to end and break bones in the process, how much more does one need? All the heavier slugs give you is greater recoil and more trajectory drop. Don

 

[roscoepc]

Who is Matt and how do I contact him?

The guy you bought the bullets from??

565 Grain Long Round Nose (.501) John Ross Design [501-565-LRN] - $19.50 : Matts Bullets

 

[ruggyh]

The loading advise in John,s booklet is spot on.
Tried almost all the loads list and they worked as described.

The heavier/longer bullets definitely work better out of his guns past 50 yards than any other S&W revolver offering.

Enjoy

Here are mine

 

[trowe2]

The loading advise in John,s booklet is spot on.
Tried almost all the loads list and they worked as described.

The heavier/longer bullets definitely work better out of his guns past 50 yards than any other S&W revolver offering.

Enjoy

Here are mine

His book says load the case full of 223 powder and call it a day. Do you see anything wrong with loading cases with varget?

 

[trowe2]

I would like to get some AA1680 to use in my Mini30, haven't found any in a couple years.

I always wonder why people want slugs heavier than the 440 gr factory weight? A heavy 440 gr hard cast load will penetrate a cape buffalo end to end and break bones in the process, how much more does one need? All the heavier slugs give you is greater recoil and more trajectory drop. Don

Cape buffalo killing power is nice and all, but I'm trying to get some tyrannosaurus rex killing power instead! I've always loved big powerful magnums and this is the next step. That is all

 

[DonD]

Cape buffalo killing power is nice and all, but I'm trying to get some tyrannosaurus rex killing power instead! I've always loved big powerful magnums and this is the next step. That is all

I have a .458 Win Mag in addition to my two .500 Mags. With some Hornady 500 gr FMJ solids, clocks 2172 fps/5237 ft lbs. T-Rexs and rogue elephants have been scarce in my neighborhood of late but I'm ready if they appear. Don

 

[ruggyh]

I am not where I have access to my notes, but I don't recall using Varget and don't recall it mentioned in Johns notes.

I do remember using IMR 3031 and 4227 on few quite a few different bullet weights; the 4227 produced higher velocities. If I were loading the 565 grain bullets and want to maximize velocity I would stick H110, N110, Lil'Gun, 2400 in that order.

Be prepared for quite the ride when you start pushing bullets heavier than 500 grains to their max. I would suggest starting with something in 500 range and get good sense of positive control before getting too carried away.

The JR produces more torque than the other S&W 500 offerings because of it faster twist rate. The up side is the bullets does stabilize and can be shoot past 50 yards accurately.

Good luck and be safe
Ruggy

 

[trowe2]

I think I'm just going to have to be patient and wait for the gun show.

Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[S.B.]

I, too, own a JRC 500 IIRC I started with bottom loads listed on Hodgdon's reloading page, especially with 296 don't go under this! Pressures seem to spike quickly(dangerously) if you go under their bottom load.
Steve

 

[trowe2]

I, too, own a JRC 500 IIRC I started with bottom loads listed on Hodgdon's reloading page, especially with 296 don't go under this! Pressures seem to spike quickly(dangerously) if you go under their bottom load.
Steve

The problem I have is that load data is not really out there for my 565 gr bullets. Another member said that 30 gr H110 will do the trick. I have a 10/10 scale so I can load partial grains fairly easily and scale it up from there slowly to see how close I am to bad pressure signs. But with you, I'm really more worried about the one time I load too little powder than I am the one time i load too much.

 

[S.B.]

The problem I have is that load data is not really out there for my 565 gr bullets. Another member said that 30 gr H110 will do the trick. I have a 10/10 scale so I can load partial grains fairly easily and scale it up from there slowly to see how close I am to bad pressure signs. But with you, I'm really more worried about the one time I load too little powder than I am the one time i load too much.

Then I usually pick the next heavier bullet for data.
Steve

 

[BLUEDOT37]

I'd depend on published data verses working up "to bad pressure signs", that might not come until it's too late. And a lighter than "starting load" isn't going to cause you dangerous pressures unless you go so low as to cause a squib & then fire another round behind it.

.

 

[S.B.]

I'd depend on published data verses working up "to bad pressure signs", that might not come until it's too late. And a lighter than "starting load" isn't going to cause you dangerous pressures unless you go so low as to cause a squib & then fire another round behind it.

.

I would advise you read some about Win 296?
Steve