Very cool. Luck of the draw. One can only wish that they still made them like they used to, but progress has its upsides as well.
Best Regards, Les
Best Regards, Les
Police Trade-in 640s at Centerfire
- Thread starter JohnRippert
- Start date
I completely forgot to look for MIM vs Forged on the ones I ordered. Looked over for fit and function, checked and found nice triggers on both, let my FFL buddy pick the one he wanted and walked off with the other.
Just checked the one I brought home and found a forged trigger. Do all these have a slightly widened smooth trigger.
I found mine fit perfectly in a nice small wooden box that somebody had sent me some custom smoked salmon in it. Had a Native style killer whale pictograph on it. Put a bow on it and gave it to the wife. She thanks me then says we can have it with breakfast. I told her we would break our teeth and she had better open the box before she made to many plans for the contents. I think she liked it better than smoked salmon.
Just checked the one I brought home and found a forged trigger. Do all these have a slightly widened smooth trigger.
I found mine fit perfectly in a nice small wooden box that somebody had sent me some custom smoked salmon in it. Had a Native style killer whale pictograph on it. Put a bow on it and gave it to the wife. She thanks me then says we can have it with breakfast. I told her we would break our teeth and she had better open the box before she made to many plans for the contents. I think she liked it better than smoked salmon.
I fired my 640-1 revolver today. It went bang every time. The Apex spring and firing pin kit worked well. I was able to keep all my shots in the black of a 25 yd. bull's eye. target. I shot 38 SP, 38 SP+P, and moderately loaded 357 Mag ammo with 160 gr. cast bullets. I have a pair of Altamont grips on the way. This revolver will not be polished so as not to obliterate the etched lettering and S&W logo. There are no deep scratched or gouges. The light scuffed finish give it character. I am very pleased with this one. I think we all got good deals.
Plastic J-Frame main spring swivels;
This looks like a very simple part. Has anyone tried to make a metal one for themselves? It should not be too hard. Brass material should work as well as steel and be better than plastic. The next time I have a reason to open up my 640-1 or 638 Bodyguard I will look into making two of them and post the results here..
Plastic J-Frame main spring swivels;
This looks like a very simple part. Has anyone tried to make a metal one for themselves? It should not be too hard. Brass material should work as well as steel and be better than plastic. The next time I have a reason to open up my 640-1 or 638 Bodyguard I will look into making two of them and post the results here..
Erich
Member
Mine went to the chilly range with me yesterday before Gina and I went up to Santa Fe to have dinner with friends and stay the night. It shot fine - honestly, not as well as I'd hoped, given the smooth trigger - just an ordinary J-frame.
I shot it with a variety of loads (from target Specials to heavy Magnums) and decided there's nothing wrong with the Speer short barrel 135-gr .38 Special +P loading that shot to point of aim.
When I cleaned it, I did a light brushing with a Scotch Brite pad to take some of the albedo away from the "buffing wheel" polish it had obviously gotten before coming to me. I like the Ergo Delta Grips on it - they point amazingly and suck up the recoil well - so they're staying on for the time being. Wearing it right now in a Remora "reholsterable" IWB.
I shot it with a variety of loads (from target Specials to heavy Magnums) and decided there's nothing wrong with the Speer short barrel 135-gr .38 Special +P loading that shot to point of aim.
When I cleaned it, I did a light brushing with a Scotch Brite pad to take some of the albedo away from the "buffing wheel" polish it had obviously gotten before coming to me. I like the Ergo Delta Grips on it - they point amazingly and suck up the recoil well - so they're staying on for the time being. Wearing it right now in a Remora "reholsterable" IWB.
Erich
Member
Old Corp
Member
Yep, last Thursday had a range day with old bear and picked my 640 u at the dealer there. No need to bore ya'll with pics - it looked pretty much like everyone else's. 640-1, 'BUC' s/n prefix.
Covered in what's probably dried/gummed WD-40. Insides just a little gummy.
We took it straight to the range and shot a variety of .38's and .357's. Old bear forced me to shoot some bear loads through it. He has masochistic tendencies.
Shot great, good groups until my right hand started to throb just a bit.
Saturday, did complete disassembly and soak in Acetone. More dried WD-40 inside. It all scrubbed off.
Reassembled and lubed, followed by normal cleaning. A bit slicker.
The Uncle Mike's rubber grips are just too worn for my taste to keep.
Conundrum - Grips..... - the only rubber grips I like are the Pach Compacs, but of course they're ugly as Rosie O'Donnell.
Don't want wood boot grips because I will be occasionally shooting magnums in it. Want something with a little more bulk, and finger grooves, but not huge.
Not a fan of the S&W 'Banana's' nor the J-round Targets.
Some S&W J-round Combats would be nice, but I'm not into spending that much.
So - guess I'll be deciding between some Altamonts or the Pach Compacs.
Any other ideas?
Covered in what's probably dried/gummed WD-40. Insides just a little gummy.
We took it straight to the range and shot a variety of .38's and .357's. Old bear forced me to shoot some bear loads through it. He has masochistic tendencies.
Shot great, good groups until my right hand started to throb just a bit.
Saturday, did complete disassembly and soak in Acetone. More dried WD-40 inside. It all scrubbed off.
Reassembled and lubed, followed by normal cleaning. A bit slicker.
The Uncle Mike's rubber grips are just too worn for my taste to keep.
Conundrum - Grips..... - the only rubber grips I like are the Pach Compacs, but of course they're ugly as Rosie O'Donnell.
Don't want wood boot grips because I will be occasionally shooting magnums in it. Want something with a little more bulk, and finger grooves, but not huge.
Not a fan of the S&W 'Banana's' nor the J-round Targets.
Some S&W J-round Combats would be nice, but I'm not into spending that much.
So - guess I'll be deciding between some Altamonts or the Pach Compacs.
Any other ideas?
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cstep
Member
I like the hogue rubber bantams for the j frames.
josp
Member
Hogue G10 grips. Got a pair recently and I'm really liking them. Don't know about shooting magnums a lot with them, no recoil absorption, just like wood in that regard.
GCF
Member
Hogue Bantams (minimalist), or Hogue Centennial Tamers - for excellent ergonomics...
Old Corp, If you like the Uncle Mike's 59007 grip and just want a replacement for the used ones you have on your revolver Ebay has a set right now for fiftyfour dollars American. My grips were in "about new" shape. And they fit me.
do a search with this wording and you'll see the listing:
Factory Smith & Wesson S&W J Frame RB Uncle Mike's Rubber Combat Grips
do a search with this wording and you'll see the listing:
Factory Smith & Wesson S&W J Frame RB Uncle Mike's Rubber Combat Grips
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Bowyer
Member
Today I finally had the opportunity to shoot my 640-1.
Using my slightly reduced 357 hand loads (more like something between 38 special and 38 +P).
I compared it with my Model 60-14 and my Ruger SP101 spurless d/a only.
The trigger on the 640-1 is way better.
I'm sure it was shot a lot but can't imagine it being fired that much more than mine. I'm thinking it must have been enhanced by a very experienced smith.
Now I am going to have to do something about these other revolvers!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
Using my slightly reduced 357 hand loads (more like something between 38 special and 38 +P).
I compared it with my Model 60-14 and my Ruger SP101 spurless d/a only.
The trigger on the 640-1 is way better.
I'm sure it was shot a lot but can't imagine it being fired that much more than mine. I'm thinking it must have been enhanced by a very experienced smith.
Now I am going to have to do something about these other revolvers!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
I got mine today. Mine came with a well worn set of Hogue grips. Has minimal scratching but nothing crazy. Poorly painted front sight also. Little bit of cylinder wiggle front to back, lock up seems okay. Not really sure what's bad or whats good but I had my dad take a look at it, and he gave it a clean bill of health. This is my first foray into wheel guns and my dad is familiar with the smiths.
I ran a half a box of .38's through it, and 5 magnums. I'm going try cleaning it up a bit, pop the sideplate off and get it properly lubed up.
I ran a half a box of .38's through it, and 5 magnums. I'm going try cleaning it up a bit, pop the sideplate off and get it properly lubed up.
DumpStick
US Veteran
Got mine in yesterday. No pics yet, but I will eventually update with pics.
Mine is the quintessential " carried alot, shot a little".
Rubber grips are completely worn out. The right side grip is worn smooth, and the back, where the two halves come together, doesn't meet up - a big split in the seam.
Cylinder is very sluggish when trying to rotate - it takes a 2-finger pinch grip to grab hold of the cylinder to rotate it. Cylinder release button (older style) takes a surprising amount of force to open cylinder.
I'll take the side-plate off when I get a chance, definitely take pics of the innards. It needs a good clean and lube prior to shooting.
Finish is covered in scratches. None very heavy, but enough that the FFL commented on how bad it looked. Front sight is unpainted, with a few small "oops" nicks.
That being said, the trigger pull is very nice - long but smooth, with just a hint of stacking before release.
I really don't think it was fired much at all. Very little carbon on cylinder face, bore is good.
I think an overnight soak in Ed's Red will solve many of the problems.
Mine is the quintessential " carried alot, shot a little".
Rubber grips are completely worn out. The right side grip is worn smooth, and the back, where the two halves come together, doesn't meet up - a big split in the seam.
Cylinder is very sluggish when trying to rotate - it takes a 2-finger pinch grip to grab hold of the cylinder to rotate it. Cylinder release button (older style) takes a surprising amount of force to open cylinder.
I'll take the side-plate off when I get a chance, definitely take pics of the innards. It needs a good clean and lube prior to shooting.
Finish is covered in scratches. None very heavy, but enough that the FFL commented on how bad it looked. Front sight is unpainted, with a few small "oops" nicks.
That being said, the trigger pull is very nice - long but smooth, with just a hint of stacking before release.
I really don't think it was fired much at all. Very little carbon on cylinder face, bore is good.
I think an overnight soak in Ed's Red will solve many of the problems.
Got mine.
It's dirty with red paint on the front sight.
Pretty scratched up but no dents.
Most importantly lockup is tight on all cylinders.
My 642 has about 300 rounds through it and this 640 seems just as tight.
Just dry firing it, the trigger seems really smooth.
The grips don't seem badly worn at all.
I'll clean it up and check the inside before I try to polish it.
What's best for removing light scratches?
Polishing compound and sandpaper?
Compound and Dremel polishing wheel?
00 grade steel wool?
At this point I would say it was money well spent.
Can't wait to shoot it.
It's dirty with red paint on the front sight.
Pretty scratched up but no dents.
Most importantly lockup is tight on all cylinders.
My 642 has about 300 rounds through it and this 640 seems just as tight.
Just dry firing it, the trigger seems really smooth.
The grips don't seem badly worn at all.
I'll clean it up and check the inside before I try to polish it.
What's best for removing light scratches?
Polishing compound and sandpaper?
Compound and Dremel polishing wheel?
00 grade steel wool?
At this point I would say it was money well spent.
Can't wait to shoot it.
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STAY AWAY FROM THE STEEL WOOL.
having said that, steel wool can impart steel into the stainless and you can end up with rust spots on your gun.
I used 400 grit wet/dry sand paper and emery cloth then Mothers Metal polish on the one I really shined up.
If you want the dull brushed shine the use the Grey 3m "scotchbrite" pad number 7448
having said that, steel wool can impart steel into the stainless and you can end up with rust spots on your gun.
I used 400 grit wet/dry sand paper and emery cloth then Mothers Metal polish on the one I really shined up.
If you want the dull brushed shine the use the Grey 3m "scotchbrite" pad number 7448
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gman51
Member
This thread sure got some attention. I for one am glad I got into it close to the beginning. I really like what I got at a great price.
Many of us would discourage the use of the ubiquitous Dremel tool as well. If you really think that metal wool is necessary, bronze wool is excellent. I keep it to use in removing light rust from blued firearms. I understand that the stainless guns are a different situation, and that they are the same color all the way through, so it is easy to get over exuberant when cleaning them up, and end up with some areas really bright, light striations running in different directions, and so forth. I ultimately decided to leave mine pretty much as it was, except for disassembling it and scrubbing out the congealed old lubricant, relubing and reassembling, and installing new stocks. But of those above who "refinished" their 640, I think the poster who "bead blasted" his ended up with one of the nicest, most glare free and uniform of all the attempts I've seen. But again, this is something that I would leave to someone with experience at bead blasting, I wouldn't want this project to be my initial venture!!
Edit: here is the post I was referring to, from way back on page three or so... I am going to edit it a little for brevity, but look how nice the gun looks after bead blasting, and is also much less reflective:
My apologies to qballwill for the liberties I took with his post. I deleted several of his photos to emphasize the contrast between before and after. Original post is I think on page three of this thread. I very much admire the rehab on his 640-1, and think that the addition of the new stocks made a really professional touch to a great refinishing effort
Just some random thoughts.
Best Regards, Les
Edit: here is the post I was referring to, from way back on page three or so... I am going to edit it a little for brevity, but look how nice the gun looks after bead blasting, and is also much less reflective:
Well I found the time to strip mine down, bead blast it and put its new shoes on. I use some ospho blue on the front sight. The insides of mine were pretty clean. Here are the before and after pics. I'm well pleased
Before bead blasting:
After bead blasting:
My apologies to qballwill for the liberties I took with his post. I deleted several of his photos to emphasize the contrast between before and after. Original post is I think on page three of this thread. I very much admire the rehab on his 640-1, and think that the addition of the new stocks made a really professional touch to a great refinishing effort
Just some random thoughts.
Best Regards, Les
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