686+ vs 627 Pro

Steel case ammo is junk. From what I've read, it can be difficult to extract in any firearm.

Sometimes dirty ammo is hard to extract. It gets fouling in the chambers. Do a combat reload, i.e. point the revolver towards the sky and give the ejector rod a good hard smack.

I second never shooting .38 before .357. Personally, I wouldn't shoot any .38 in it. It's just more to clean (removing carbon fouling). I'm in the mindset of if you want to shoot .38, buy a .38.
 
Last edited:
1. Yes I did shoot a cylinder worth of 38 first. I wasn't sure what the recoil is going to be.
2. First cylinder was ok to eject. I wasn't particularly paying attention but I started noticing difficulty ejecting on second one with only a few chambers (second cylinder was 357 mags). I also noticed that in DA mode the cylinder wouldn't turn as I pulled the trigger on some shots.
3. Found these reviews of the exact ammo I was shooting.
TulAmmo .357 Magnum Ammunition 50 Rounds, FMJ, 158 Grain - TA357158 - 814950011555
that confirms the theory of bad ammo. Seems like other people are having exact same problems.

4. As far as combat reload I've tried pushing eject rod as hard as I could. The only thing that worked at the end of the day is phillips screwdriver in each chamber---and even that barely worked.


Odd that semiauto's are supposed to be ammo-finicky and yet I've NEVER had any issues with steel-cased tulammo in my SW MP's

Looks like another trip to the range for me tomorrow. Any inexpensive ammo that you guys can recommend?
 
American Eagle ammo is made in the USA by Federal. It's usually well priced and widely available. Clean those chambers well and inspect them with bright light and a magnifier. They should be smooth and fairly shiny.
 
Shooting the 38s first makes no difference with shooting longer cases later. This was a new gun and hasn't developed any crud inside chambers to restrict the release of longer cases. ....

I have a bad back and shoot 38s first all the time. And if I shoot magnums- I shoot them last. I've heard some people say to do the opposite and that it helps with extraction.

Nope.

Hate to say this but if you want really inexpensive ammo- you have to load. Reloading will offer cost benefits as well as accuracy .

I can't remember how many years ago I bought 357 ammo but, I did buy American eagle. I had to karate chop them outta the cylinder. Just if it happens, don't let it dissuade you from the platform. There are good ammo manufacturers out there. I can only trust my hands and my brains these days.

The courses of action are :
finding the right ammo that works for your gun. (All guns are different and tolerances too)

Loading the right sizes (again) bullets that will work.

Appendix A: moonclips

Finding the right moonclips that work with your cases that fit your gun. Some cases will only work with some brands of moonclips. Usw.usw.

So many choices!


Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
The reason I wanted a revolver is that I really wanted a gun that I wouldn't have to treat like a princess, but real to-hell-and-back kind of a gun: uses any kind of ammo/no need for constant maintenance. My MP 9 full size/ and Shield eat all the tula's and federal aluminum I can throw at them. Several thousand rounds with no problems and I'm not very diligent about cleaning them either.

I guess I should've done a better homework, but it's disappointing to find out that revolvers are so susceptible to extraction issues. And not just susceptible, but with no recourse either. With a pistol it take a few seconds to clear FTE. Today at the range I tried ejection rod as hard as I could, but eventually had to pack up and go home.

It was only disappointing at the range, but in a firefight it would be a much more critical emergency.
 
Steel cased ammo is cheap poo and should be avoided if at all possible. And, since I reload for all my pistols both bottom feeder and wheelgun, it's also to be avoided since you cannot reload that junk. If you want some reliable and not too expensive ammo, I bought a couple hundred rounds of Fiocchi and a couple hundred rounds of PMC Bronze a few years ago during the Great Ammo and Component Shortage a few years ago because some of my old 70's vintage 357 brass being flat worn out and both of those brands shot well for me with no extraction problems.
 
pgb205 said:
Ok. Just took a trip to the range with this gun (after having cleaned and lubricated as instructed in the manual). Fired off 20 rounds of 38 sp and 357 mag by Tulammo. First cylinder went with no problems. By the second cylinder i found it difficult to eject. Third cylinder I am unable to eject spend brass at all no matter how hard I try to push down ejector rod(ie I am unable to depress it at all). You can see several shots in attached pictures. I'm not sure if something is wrong with ammo, the cylinder, something else?
Click to expand...
As some of the other OPs have stated, the junk ammo is a big part of the problem. A few of the ranges I go to have signs posted, "Do not use steel case ammo". There are many good manufactures of ammo out there at reasonable prices. I don't even like to shoot the aluminum one time cases. When the cylinder get warm they don't eject as easily.
 
pgb205 said:
The reason I wanted a revolver is that I really wanted a gun that I wouldn't have to treat like a princess, but real to-hell-and-back kind of a gun: uses any kind of ammo/no need for constant maintenance. My MP 9 full size/ and Shield eat all the tula's and federal aluminum I can throw at them. Several thousand rounds with no problems and I'm not very diligent about cleaning them either.

I guess I should've done a better homework, but it's disappointing to find out that revolvers are so susceptible to extraction issues. And not just susceptible, but with no recourse either. With a pistol it take a few seconds to clear FTE. Today at the range I tried ejection rod as hard as I could, but eventually had to pack up and go home.

It was only disappointing at the range, but in a firefight it would be a much more critical emergency.
Click to expand...

You are over reacting based on your very limited experience with a batch of known **** ammo. Revolvers are reliable as a hammer and you picked a good one. Steel cased ammo will stop an AR 15 or many other other firearms. Most of it is pure **** for tolerance. Much of it has layered cases which will gum up ANYTHING it touches when the gun gets hot. Most any knowledgeable gun people refuse to use it in anything but sloppy chambered firearms such as an AK . Especially for any kind of serious work
All that said, I have been shooting revolvers for 40+ years and can't remember a time I had a stoppage from case extraction in any of my CF revolvers.
My advice is to open yourself to this learning experience and start enjoying the gun with reliable and quality ammo.
 
pgb205 said:
The reason I wanted a revolver is that I really wanted a gun that I wouldn't have to treat like a princess, but real to-hell-and-back kind of a gun: uses any kind of ammo/no need for constant maintenance. My MP 9 full size/ and Shield eat all the tula's and federal aluminum I can throw at them. Several thousand rounds with no problems and I'm not very diligent about cleaning them either.

I guess I should've done a better homework, but it's disappointing to find out that revolvers are so susceptible to extraction issues. And not just susceptible, but with no recourse either. With a pistol it take a few seconds to clear FTE. Today at the range I tried ejection rod as hard as I could, but eventually had to pack up and go home.

It was only disappointing at the range, but in a firefight it would be a much more critical emergency.
Click to expand...

I see your new here, and perhaps you have not been reading other peoples threads, but there is a lot to learn about the firearms hobby. Your steel case ammo, and 38's before .357's issues are regularly discussed.

And a heads-up about those dependable semi-autos, they can be just as difficult to clear up when they stop working.
When my Shield recoil spring assembly (RSA) failed, it jammed the slide so that it took my gunsmith 15 minutes to get it off. After the slide came off, it took more than 3 months for S&W to send me a new RSA.
The Shield mag release button is steel, and can rust and seize inside the grip, so it should be lubed for rust protection.
Some Shield mag springs have failed by folding at 90 degrees. Etc. etc.

The list of things that can render all your guns unusable is long, so I carry a knife as well, some here carry backup guns or BUG's.
 
Last edited:
robert1804 said:
American Eagle ammo is made in the USA by Federal. It's usually well priced and widely available. Clean those chambers well and inspect them with bright light and a magnifier. They should be smooth and fairly shiny.
Click to expand...

IN my experience AE is extremely dirty. Back when I bought factory ammo, I stopped buying it. I recommend PMC or Magtech. Magtech, especially, can be found for super cheap when it's on sale.
 
Mumbly-Peg said:
While we're on the subject of ammo, I bought some Cabelas Herters ammo while it was on sale. Am I in for a world of hurt?
Click to expand...

You don't say the caliber, but I've been plinking with Herters 158gr FMJ .38SP & .357 for about 3-4000 rounds in my 686's and Rossi lever rifle. It's been flawless for me. Shoots good groups to POA, and clean burning.
 
I've had good luck shooting the Perfecta line of ammo available from Walmart. It's made by Fiocci and it's about the cheapest .357 I've found anywhere. I also like PMC ammo when I can find it on sale, it shoots very clean.
I only shoot .357 from my full size revolvers so I avoid the problem of .38 soot rings interfering with my ejection. Also, I clean the chambers well afer every shooting session with a brass brush and finish up with a patch of lead removing cloth.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
Got a box of Federal 357 Magnum. Will go to the range today and report on the results.

Also , I've email tulammo about this issue.

"are you aware of the reports that your 158 gr 357 magnum cartridges won't eject properly from revolvers?"


They replied today with:
"Yes, we are aware of the issue."
 
Just came back from the range. Bought 3 other brands of ammo: Sig Sauer Performance, Federal 357 and Aguilla 357 magnum.

No issues ejecting spent casings after having fired at least 60 rounds. I have also tried 38 special first and then 357. Most of the spent casings came out under force of gravity--the ones that stayed certainly didn't require any effort to eject using ejection rod. I tried just 1 round of 357 Tula and was not able to eject it even when using the ejection rod--had to use the screwdriver. As far as I'm concerned that issue is 100% due to the screwey ammo.

One other thing:
Imagine a typical DA triger pull--very long and heavy. I fire off a shot in DA mode, and maybe one or few more. Then I pull the trigger and it's very light, feels like almost no resistance. Small click and nothing happens. Other shots fire off with no problems. At first I thought it's either a faulty round, but that's not the cause. I'm not sure if I'm short stroking the trigger or something else.
 
Last edited:
did a bit more tries on the 'short stroking' situation. The following actions re-create the 'misfire'

1. I fire the gun in DA mode--the trigger is now as far back as possible.
2. I slowly let the trigger move forward until I hear LOUD click.
3. If I try to pull at this point I won't be able to, the action is completely locked.
4. I let the trigger move even further forward until I hear a SOFTER click.
If I pull on the trigger now I get the 'thump' and the round doesn't go off.
5. I release the trigger even further forward until it gets back to the initial position. EVEN softer click at this point. From here if I pull back I get the proper action cycling.

The only sure way to make certain that a round goes off is to let the trigger quickly go back to initial position. If I slowly let it return, sometime I don't even get a third click and I then get one or even two 'thumps'. I see hammer rises by a fraction of an inch and then falls back.
 
Last edited:
stuck cases

Avoid using steel case ammo. When a brass case is fired the heat dissipates quickly and the case returns to normal very quickly. A higher velocity round has more pressure and steel cases can stay oversized and create sticking. I've mixed 357 and 38 Special ammo at the range never paying much attention to which I shoot first. The recoil from a 686 is very tolerable with 357 mag ammo, I shoot both because I reload both, (357 reloads don't cost much more to shoot than a 38 spec., a little more powder and a magnum primer). Steel cases work OK in a semi auto because the spent case is ejected immediately, but steel cases cause more wear to the semi autos.
 
pgb205 said:
I'm not sure if I'm short stroking the trigger or something else.
Click to expand...

It sounds like you are. It happens to me after I shoot my SA pistols (S&W 3rd gens, Glock, 1911) and then switch to revolvers. Gotta remember the long trigger reset.

pgb205 said:
They replied today with:
"Yes, we are aware of the issue."
Click to expand...

What bull**** customer service. I hope you never buy their stuff again.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

trulyapostolic
686-4 Hunter info wanted
Replies
7
Views
702
trulyapostolic
trulyapostolic
G
UPDATE Is a 686-4 still a good gun?
2
Replies
38
Views
3K
Mehutch
Mehutch
M
627-3 or 627-PC?
Replies
2
Views
925
John Adams
John Adams
D
For Sale S&W PC 686 Competitor, PC Pro 686 plus, and Model 642 Airweight
Replies
1
Views
789
Dr.Bill
D
M
627 or 686
Replies
17
Views
2K
Tanners Owner
Tanners Owner

Latest posts

Back
Top