Can you make this stainless L frame look like this stainless L frame?

Stopsign32v

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If so, how without fading the S&W rollmark away? I'm talking about strictly the finish.

From this

SW-Model-69-03.jpg


To this

2216377_02_smith_wesson_686_talo_in_357_m_640.jpg
 
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Yes, obviously you can buff out the bead blast. Getting it evenly finished, without buff marks would be the difficult part. There's probably a few threads about it, if you look around. Not worth all the effort imo, and I'm someone who much prefers the shine over the bead. I'm sure there's lots of places that'd do it for a couple hundred. And the roll mark can be re applied by Smith, if it comes to that. Why not just learn to love it?
 
Yes, obviously you can buff out the bead blast. Getting it evenly finished, without buff marks would be the difficult part. There's probably a few threads about it, if you look around. Not worth all the effort imo, and I'm someone who much prefers the shine over the bead. I'm sure there's lots of places that'd do it for a couple hundred. And the roll mark can be re applied by Smith, if it comes to that. Why not just learn to love it?

Same reason I didn't marry a fat woman and learned to love her.

What about bead blasting it with really fine media? Would that shine it up enough to buff to a brushed stainless?
 
Same reason I didn't marry a fat woman and learned to love her.

What about bead blasting it with really fine media? Would that shine it up enough to buff to a brushed stainless?

Don't think you'd gain much that way vs straight out buffing. Maybe wire brush, or something. What you need to look at is getting it even.

Let me put it this way. I picked up a model 66. This thing already has the finish you're looking for. Mine had some light pitting with rust spots. Prev. Owner probably had it somewhere moist. So I sanded, and wire brushed, all that stuff. It looks decent, but it won't fool anyone, that's looking for original finish. Yes, it could be done, but getting it right would take a lot of painstaking work. My time is valuable, and if I really wanted to make my 66 special, I'd send it out to be done right. There's a "grain", for lack of a better word, on this brushed stainless. And if it's done wrong, it's easy to spot.

If you don't care(like me) and just want something decent, then yes. But that roll mark is going to be the first casualty. It'll still be visible in the right angle, but at other angles, not so much. Smith does refinishing, if you want it right, roll mark and all. But short of that, my opinion would be that it would be imperfect.

Oh, and about that fat girl...they're warm in the winter, shady in the summer!
 
The modern bead blast finish and blacked out controls are for tactical reasons, so you don't give away your position to tangos that you might have no neutralize.

It has nothing to do with being cheaper than a proper polishing job.

You'll die for sure if you have to defend yourself with such a shiny revolver, don't polish it or every threat in a 100 meter killzone will zero in on your coordinates and eliminate you.

;)
 
The model 69 is the current bead-blast stainless, and the 686 below it has the factory standard (dull) stainless finish job, minus the polished unfluted cylinder. Presuming you want to duplicate the appearance of the 686 barrel and frame, there are posts here as to how to restore a gun to factory appearance using Scotchbrite pads of varying abrasiveness that will probably do the trick. Your job, however, will probably look more uniform than a new factory gun :). Good luck in your decision.
 
I would not recommend a high polish finish on stainless because you will be polishing constantly to keep the finger prints off. It does present a pleasing appearance but is a high maintenance finish. You can get a nice sheen on your bead finish by polishing it with Flitz or Semi Chrome polish which might be the best of both worlds.
 
I would not recommend a high polish finish on stainless because you will be polishing constantly to keep the finger prints off. It does present a pleasing appearance but is a high maintenance finish. You can get a nice sheen on your bead finish by polishing it with Flitz or Semi Chrome polish which might be the best of both worlds.

I have a high polished 686 and I could not possibly love it more.

In fact I love wiping it down OCD style to get every smudge off it so it's perfect once again.


I'm being serious too. hahah
 
It's possible. Easy? Not.
I posted this years ago:
I have polished up a number of really beat up SS Smiths.
For jobs like these, you will need a lot more than Mother's.
I use auto body sandpaper (dry - tried it both ways) cut into 1" wide strips.
Depending on how bad it is, have started out with as coarse as 320 grit.
Different areas will probably need different grits to start. You may even need to use a fine file to smooth out deep gouges, usually the bottom of the triggerguard where the gun has been dropped.
Strip the gun, re-install the sideplate with all flathead screws. I keep a set of screws just for this purpose.
For the flat areas, I wrap the sandpaper around a little aluminum sanding block I made.
After all has been worked with the first sandpaper, go to the next finer grade. Work it with this one to smooth out all the scratches from the last grade.
Repeat this with finer and finer sandpaper until you end up with 2000 grit.
You will quickly learn that if you don't completely remove the previous scratches before going finer that you will have to back up and do it over, Trust me on this!
After its polished to 2000 all over, start in with Mother's and rub, rub, rub. I start out polishing with a cotton shop rag and end up with a microfiber cloth.

Here are some of the worst that I have done:

This model 67 was a complete junker. $150 at the LGS. Dirtiest and most beat one I ever saw. Soaked 3 days in Ed's red before even starting on it:
67.jpg


This one had a very coarse sandblast finish with lots of pitting (yes, stainless DOES rust!) like it had been a boat gun. It took more work than the others:
65-5.jpg


This was another used gun with numerous dings and scrapes:
629.jpg


And one that looked as if it had been dragged behind a truck:
624-4.jpg

Final note: Unless you REALLY know what you're doing, do not use any power tools!
 
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Yes. Start with 600 grit sand paper, followed by 800-1000 grit, then 1500 grit. Then use white scotch-brite pads. It will come out looking like this.


Finally someone who knows how to do something other than repeating some bartalk from the internet.
 
It's possible. Easy? Not.
I posted this years ago:
I have polished up a number of really beat up SS Smiths.
For jobs like these, you will need a lot more than Mother's.
I use auto body sandpaper (dry - tried it both ways) cut into 1" wide strips.
Depending on how bad it is, have started out with as coarse as 320 grit.
Different areas will probably need different grits to start. You may even need to use a fine file to smooth out deep gouges, usually the bottom of the triggerguard where the gun has been dropped.
Strip the gun, re-install the sideplate with all flathead screws. I keep a set of screws just for this purpose.
For the flat areas, I wrap the sandpaper around a little aluminum sanding block I made.
After all has been worked with the first sandpaper, go to the next finer grade. Work it with this one to smooth out all the scratches from the last grade.
Repeat this with finer and finer sandpaper until you end up with 2000 grit.
You will quickly learn that if you don't completely remove the previous scratches before going finer that you will have to back up and do it over, Trust me on this!
After its polished to 2000 all over, start in with Mother's and rub, rub, rub. I start out polishing with a cotton shop rag and end up with a microfiber cloth.

Here are some of the worst that I have done:

This model 67 was a complete junker. $150 at the LGS. Dirtiest and most beat one I ever saw. Soaked 3 days in Ed's red before even starting on it:
67.jpg


This one had a very coarse sandblast finish with lots of pitting (yes, stainless DOES rust!) like it had been a boat gun. It took more work than the others:
65-5.jpg


This was another well-used gun dinged all over and rusted in a couple spots:
629.jpg


And one that looked as if it had been dragged behind a truck:
624-4.jpg

Final note: Unless you REALLY know what you're doing, do not use any power tools!

And someone else who knows how to do something. The guys who never did anything will usually tell you to farm the job out. Why they even respond is a mystery to me.
 
You can get a nice sheen on your bead finish by polishing it with Flitz or Semi Chrome polish which might be the best of both worlds.

Simichrome does have an abrasive in it. Don't know about flitz.

to leave the bead blast alone but make it shinier, I would use a paste wax or some other polish that is free of abrasives.

If you want to use an abrasive media suspended in a liquid there are better choices (like clover compound) that come in multiple grit sizes.

Some of the polishes that have a grit in them (like simichrome) are a bit confounding. The grit is sized by a screening and if only one product is being made by the factory, you get every grit particle that passes the screen used. Some of those grit particles may have passed through a much higher mesh (wires per inch) than the desired size and been suitable for a finer grit media but you get them all (I think). This can result in getting what seems like a wonderful shine from the finer grit that is marred by the larger grits also in the mix. The waxy residue also serves to confound things.

I don't polish guns but do polish molds and some types of cutting tools to mirror finish and it is best done as stated elsewhere here by starting with a rougher grit and working in steps to a finer and finer grit. On flat surfaces where no visible lines can be left, I work with gesswein stones in one direction until all visible lines are parallel, then with a finer stone at another angle until all visible lines are parallel to the new direction and on and on until there is no visible improvement with a finer stone. It is work. Worse on curved surfaces by far and gummy materials even worse.

For the hours it would take to polish out my SSR I could pay myself prevailing wage and buy a blued 19. I don't want a weapon that shines in my hands but I do want one that doesn't rust in my safe.
 
I once round butted a M67. After filing as well as I could, I started with about 120 grit wet or dry paper and worked down to 600 grit. This was actually fairly shinny. I wasn't looking for polished, but rather to match the factory satin finish on the rest of the revolver. I then used a white 3M nylon pad to "blend" the finish, which gave me what I wanted.
My advice to anyone without polishing experience would be to try working on a piece of scrap stainless steel. An old spatula or a large washer. This will give an idea of how much work will be involved as well as giving some practice. And some shinny washers! Once the job is started, the commitment is made, and the work needs to go to completion.
As mentioned above, it is essential to remove all "scratches" from the previous grade before going on to a finer one. Otherwise, the scratches will show up very well on a polished background.

Best,
Rick
 
FLITZ will definitely do it. I done it on my COLT XSE Stainless Commander and it came out rather shiny. I just used the FLITZ and a couple cloths and some elbow grease. I liked the way it came out, but as others have mentioned the finish will show everything that touches it. I was constantly wiping it down trying to keep it looking decent. I finally stripped the frame and slide down and sent it off to be bead blasted. I am much happier with it now.

Good luck and show pics of your work.

Larry
 
I went from this.

KFP_1624_1-XL.jpg


To this. I had to use 800, 1000, 1500 paper on the Lady Smith logo. Everything else was done with a shop rag and Mothers polish.

KFP_1702_1-XL.jpg


Edit* these are 2 different guns in case you noticed one has a case hardened trigger and hammer, but they had the same finish.
 
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I have a high polished 686 and I could not possibly love it more.

In fact I love wiping it down OCD style to get every smudge off it so it's perfect once again.


I'm being serious too. hahah

Just bought an older 6" M686, and I'm very impressed with it, too...it's part of my very extravagant celebration for my upcoming 70th birthday...and I don't care about theoretical "tangos"...I have several old 9mm big-box pistols for that. AND a non-shiny stainless Colt Government Model...

Enjoy it...don't worry about the small stuff.
 
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