if you grind the front sight your hits will be higher on the paper not lower
Did the rounds impact approximately where the dot in the center of the front sight covered the target? It is sighted that when the front sight is centered in and level with the rear sight - the impact should be where the dot is not the sight tip. Example C in this picture.
Did the rounds impact approximately where the dot in the center of the front sight covered the target? It is sighted that when the front sight is centered in and level with the rear sight - the impact should be where the dot is not the sight tip. Example C in this picture.
Dusty
The problem with your "C" sight picture is at 25 yards the entire target is covered by my sights and muzzle. It's as if the red bullseye is actually the entire black target, make sense? I'm not sure that's the view I want, I'd rather have the top of my sight at the bottom of the bullseye, the 6 o'clock position, right now the top of my sight is at the very top of the target to get that group.
If that's what works for you. I like to see what I'm shooting at, and where the bullets are going to hit, and prefer this sight picture:
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If he's holding at the top of the target, the POI needs to be lowered. Thereby lowering the rear sight or raising the front sight.The acronym that's stuck in my head for adjusting sights is F.O.R.S.
Front Opposite Rear Same
You need to bring the P.O.I. up to the P.O.A, so you need to lower the front site or raise the rear. Measure the sight radius and do the math to tell you how much at your chosen zero range. I don't zoom right to the limit with a dremel or something, I only file off maybe 75% of the figure and go in bitty steps from there.
It's not "what works for me" I'm just saying how Beretta ships it. SigSauers are the same.