Which AR-15 for Newbie

I am concerned the front sights will interfere with scope shooting.

The front sight mounted on this rifle is out a couple inches further than a standard carbine length so it's a tad bit clearer at 1x, but this will give you an idea of what to expect.

1x.......

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4x........

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I am assuming for the M&P®15 SPORT™ II (M&P(R)15 Sport™ II | Smith & Wesson) once I remove both sights, then it will be same as optics ready?

No. The A2 front sight on the Sport also serves as the gas block and secures the handguard. You would have to replace it with a gas block similar to what's on the Optics Ready or replace the handguard with a freefloat and low profile gas block.

If your overriding concern is the A2 front sight I would suggest looking at rifles with free float handguard and also longer in length to better accommodate the light you want to mount and anything else.
 
OP, first, welcome to the forum. I hope you'll find the information and opinions here useful.

A few years ago I bought a Sport I as I had never had or shot an AR. My prior 30 years experience with rifles was all with bolt actions and 22LR autoloaders. The Sport is a well built and reliable rifle. It's not just a good "starter" AR, it's a good AR at a very competitive price. Buying a Sport as your first AR allows you to see how the rifle is designed and engineered and which parts and their fit are critical to a functioning and reliable rifle.

While ARs are very customizable, I echo the suggestions from the members here to clean your new rifle and then shoot it a lot for several sessions before you start changing parts around.

If you are fairly new to rifle shooting I'd suggest getting some instruction on the the basics such as breath control, sight picture, trigger control, and holds. Learning those human mechanics will help you determine whether your rifle is accurate or not. Simply changing out parts does nothing for accuracy if you don't know the basics of rifle shooting. There are some good USMC videos on line to get you started.
 
Since the rest of your questions were pretty much answered, I'll just add ammo info. So if you are going to shoot a lot to get used to the rifle (which you should absolutely do) then get some good cheap plinking ammo like Wolf Gold or some Federal M193 or equivalent. That stuff is not match grade accurate, but for what you are going to be using it for, it's perfect. Many of us here shoot the same stuff at the range.

Good luck, enjoy the journey and listen to the others, do not go buying stuff for the rifle until you fully understand how it works and what parts will fit/work on it. We've seen a lot of newer AR shooters buy stuff that won't even work with their rifle then they have to return it. Learn first, buy later.
 
When I bought ARs for both my sons, I ended up deciding that the Sport II was (pardon the pun) the best bang for the buck.

They were correct right out of the box, solid, accurate and are backed by a company with first-class customer service.
 
The most common thing I see new Sport buyers change is the carbine length handguard to a longer freefloat handguard.
My suggestion is to understand handguard options before pressing the buy button on any AR. It will also lead to understanding about iron sight options.

Happy AR hunting.

Thanks ChattanoogaPhil,

If I want owner has a MP-22 II with front sights, and later decides to get longer freefloat handguard, will the iron sights and gas block have to be modified so the longer handguard wil fit?

Thanks
 
I have to agree with CJ's last paragraph since I have some recent first hand experience with this. I did build another AR with a free floated hand guard because I am using it at 300yrds+. However, my Sport II is stock, and IMHO, unless you are shooting past 300yrds, you will not notice much benefit in accuracy from a free floated hand guard until the barrel gets heated up. It will take several rounds for the barrel to heat up enough to make a difference. Of course, the type of ammo and how fast you fire those rounds will make a difference, but for the average shooter, I'd say you would need to fire at least 20rds in quick succession before the barrel would be hot enough to notice any difference in accuracy at less than 300yrds. If you are the typical target shooter who will shoot a group or two and then let the rifle cool while you check results or make adjustments, then you are never going to notice any difference.
If you are the type who is going to empty 30rd mags as quick as you can just for the sake of doing so, then you will want a heat shield and/or a free floated guard to help get rid of the heat, but accuracy is going to be out the window no matter which hand guard you have.

Thank you hugger for the good response.

A few questions please:

1. How far can a AR MP Sport II shoot?

2. Can the standard AR MP Sport with no free floated hand guard shoot 300 yards?

3. How does a free floated hand guard protect the barrel from getting hot? I ask because I do plan to take the family and friends out shooting when the come over at times. I want to show my entire family that owning an AR is a right and can be fun as well. My family is not into guns. So I don't want the rifle to get to hot too quickly after shooting 1 magazine of 30.

4. What do you mean by "but accuracy is going to be out the window no matter which hand guard you have."?

5. Don't laugh. What you mean by "empty 30rd mags " ? Does this means 30 bullets?

Thank you
 
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Thanks ChattanoogaPhil,

If I want owner has a MP-22 II with front sights, and later decides to get longer freefloat handguard, will the iron sights and gas block have to be modified so the longer handguard wil fit?

Thanks

If you mean the M&P 15-22 (.22LR), no. The 15-22 handguard is not compatible with an AR platform. And, there is no gas block on a 15-22. The front sight on a 15-22 simply mounts to the handguard, or it could mount to the railed gas block of the Optics Ready you mentioned earlier.

Suggest going to a gun store and looking at different AR configurations. You'll see free float handguards with low profile gas block underneath and sights that attach to the handguard versus an A2 style like the Sport. It's really simple stuff with the gun in hand... but can be a bit much to absorb with just words.
 
Goodoboy,
I guess you can see that you have to get the nomenclature correct, or you will confuse everyone...

Which rifle are you talking about now?

1. M&P 15 Sport II - This is the 5.56mm rifle with the fixed front sight and the flip rear sight.

2. M&P 15 Sport II ORC - 5.56mm Optics Ready Carbine... no sights included

3. M&P 15-22 Sport - This is an AR style rifle that is chambered in .22lr and includes a MLOK handguard with flip up sights.

4. M&P 22 - This is a .22lr pistol

I'm going to assume that we are still talking about either option 1 or 2. Yes, with 5.56mm, you can shoot out to 300 yards. With either of the 5.56mm rifles, if you decide that you want the long, free float hand guard, then yes, you will more than likely have to remove the front sight / gas block... I say more than likely because there are a few "drop in" solutions that have a cut out for the front sight, but most opt to get rid of it.

Is this your first rifle? What is your level of experience. I'm not trying to make you feel stupid... It will help us help you if we know exactly what your experience is. If you are fairly new to shooting, I would say not to worry about 300 yards, free float hand guards, etc...
 
Thank you hugger for the good response.

A few questions please:

1. How far can a AR MP Sport II shoot?

2. Can the standard AR MP Sport with no free floated hand guard shoot 300 yards?

3. How does a free floated hand guard protect the barrel from getting hot? I ask because I do plan to take the family and friends out shooting when the come over at times. I want to show my entire family that owning an AR is a right and can be fun as well. My family is not into guns. So I don't want the rifle to get to hot too quickly after shooting 1 magazine of 30.

4. What do you mean by "but accuracy is going to be out the window no matter which hand guard you have."?

5. Don't laugh. What you mean by "empty 30rd mags " ? Does this means 30 bullets?

Thank you

No laughing here, we were all new to this at some point!

To answer your questions :

The Sport II is capable of shooting further than your or my skill will probably make use of. I do not consider myself an expert, but I am probably on the upper side of "average" shooters. I can reliably hit a man sized target at 300yrds with my stock Sport II, shooting offhand, with any amo. If I put a 6x scope on it, I can reliably hit a five gallon bucket at 300yds. If I shoot from a bench, I can put ALL rounds in a dinner plate at 300yds.

A free floated hand guard does not really prevent a barrel from getting hot, but it allows more air flow around the barrel to help dissipate the heat quicker. I can shoot 30rds as fast as I can pull the trigger and still comfortably hold my stock Sport II. If I slap in a second mag and keep shooting, by the end of the second mag the handguard is getting too hot to hold.
This is what I meant by "emptying mags". 30rd mags are the most common unless you live where they are outlawed like CA, NY, MA, etc.

If I just start pulling the trigger as fast as I can, I can empty a mag in a few seconds. However, very, very few people who do this can actually hit ANYTHING at 100yds. IF I want to shoot 30rds and actually hit a target every time at 100yds, it takes me close to a minute to empty a mag. At this rate of fire I can shoot several mags before I worry about letting the barrel cool.
 
If you have a scope that is 3 power, you typically will not see the front sight in the scope. Guaranteed not to see it at 4 power and higher. This is because the focal point of the scope is further out than the front sight is. There is a drawback though... even though you can't see the front sight in the scope, it does block light.

What will be the primary use of the rifle? If it is hunting and using a magnified optic, you may want to consider either the optics ready version, or a rifle with a free float hand guard that covers the gas block and has flip up sights. If you opt for the optic ready version, you can add flip up sights to it, just the front sight should be a metal sight, not the lower cost Magpul polymer type. But if you never plan to shoot the rifle using iron sights, they aren't required.

My setup for hogs is a Sport I. Fixed front sight, flip up rear and I use a Millet red dot sight. No magnification, but I am typically no more than 70 yards away from the hogs.

Thank you cyphertext for the response.

The rifle will be used for hog and deer hunting, so a scope is needed. It will also be used for target practice and just general shooting in the outdoor range. Of course for home protection as needed. As time goes on, I will invest in another rifle strictly for home protection, as needed.

I will eventually put a scope on the AR, so buying the optic ready is a good option. Unless I put a riser on the back rail and put the scope on there.
 
Goodoboy,
I guess you can see that you have to get the nomenclature correct, or you will confuse everyone...

Which rifle are you talking about now?

1. M&P 15 Sport II - This is the 5.56mm rifle with the fixed front sight and the flip rear sight.

2. M&P 15 Sport II ORC - 5.56mm Optics Ready Carbine... no sights included

3. M&P 15-22 Sport - This is an AR style rifle that is chambered in .22lr and includes a MLOK handguard with flip up sights.

4. M&P 22 - This is a .22lr pistol

I'm going to assume that we are still talking about either option 1 or 2. Yes, with 5.56mm, you can shoot out to 300 yards. With either of the 5.56mm rifles, if you decide that you want the long, free float hand guard, then yes, you will more than likely have to remove the front sight / gas block... I say more than likely because there are a few "drop in" solutions that have a cut out for the front sight, but most opt to get rid of it.

Is this your first rifle? What is your level of experience. I'm not trying to make you feel stupid... It will help us help you if we know exactly what your experience is. If you are fairly new to shooting, I would say not to worry about 300 yards, free float hand guards, etc...

Thanks cyphertext. I appreciate the help. Yes, this all fairly new to me. No worries, i appreciate the help.

I have 0 experience with rifle ownership. I only been to the range with a friend to shoot his AR.

I am referring to option 1 and 2 for the decision making. And yes, I am very new to shooting.

Thanks,
 
Yes, .223 is legal for deer in many states, including TN. Wouldn't be my first choice of weapons for deer. Ammo choice and shot placement are more critical compared to other more common deer rifles like .308 for instance, but .223 will take down a deer.
 
I'm not sure the 223 is capable of deer hunting. Probably hogs, but deer??

I would say hogs are harder to kill than deer... hide is thicker, and the vitals are lower and more compact than vitals on a deer.

With the ammunition available today, the .223 is quite capable of taking deer and hogs. Use a premium round made for hunting, keep within 150 yards, and be a little more selective on your shots.
 
Thank you cyphertext for the response.

The rifle will be used for hog and deer hunting, so a scope is needed. It will also be used for target practice and just general shooting in the outdoor range. Of course for home protection as needed. As time goes on, I will invest in another rifle strictly for home protection, as needed.

I will eventually put a scope on the AR, so buying the optic ready is a good option. Unless I put a riser on the back rail and put the scope on there.

Ok, so I see a couple of issues... You say that the rifle will be used for hunting, so you want a scope. It will also be used for shooting at the range, so far so good... but then you add home protection. A rifle set up for hunting is typically not going to work well for home protection.

Also, you say you will "eventually" add a scope. If you are not going to put an optic on it day one, then I would not get the optic ready rifle. It doesn't have any sights at all on it. If the optic is a purchase for later on down the road, get the Sport II with sights. Otherwise you will have to purchase a set of sights for the optic ready, and that is going to increase your price by at least $100 for a decent set.

Personally, I would go for the Sport II with sights. It is cheap enough that you can get it, shoot it for a while, and then either put a scope on it, free float it and put an optic on it, or buy a whole different upper to set up for hunting. Add a red dot and a light to the Sport upper and you have a decent set up for home defense.
 
Buy the gun and a few Magpul PMags. The only mod you need is a sling. Attend an Appleseed to learn to shoot the gun with iron sights.

Add optics later after you know what you are doing.
 
A Burris MTAC 1-4x is a good scope that you can use for hunting, defense, and action gun games.
 
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Some have mentioned accuracy to 300 yds . My son , a former Marine always had to qualify to 500 yds , open iron sights . He became a 6th level expert shot . That means he qualified 6 times expert in a row .
A few yrs earlier he was representing his company at the battalion shooting matches in Okinawa . A " Gunny " from the Marine Corps shooting team took him aside , told he that he shot well , but he was going to teach him to shoot his weapon better . That bit of training that day made the difference for him .
 
If hog hunting is a big part of why you want your rifle I'd suggest using a red dot instead of a scope. Scopes are great for hitting a target at longer distances but picking up a second target after you have shot once (like another hog or several in a pack) is going to be slow with a scope. Chances are other targets will be gone before you can pick them up using a scope unless you are using a very low power scope. A red dot would be better for hunting hogs IMO because you can quickly pick up second and third targets with practice.

And speaking of practice, that is something you are going to want to do a lot if you want to hit what you're shooting at. Shooting is really a simple thing but it takes practice to get it right anyway. If you can't afford to shoot 5.56 rounds a lot you may want to consider getting a .22 to learn shooting. They are by far the cheapest gun to shoot. And what you learn shooting a .22 can be applied to shooting almost any rifle except maybe the true high power stuff (the 5.56 is not a high power rifle despite what they say on tv).
 
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