K or L frame 357 magnum?

[retvet2009]

For whatever reason I seem to have been bitten by the revolver bug. I just recently purchased the 4.25" model 69 combat magnum 44 magnum and traded for its little brother the 2.75".

Well now I'm looking at 357 magnums with serious intentions. So there's the various model 686's in the L frame which I would most likely look at the 3" and 4". There's also the model 66's in the K frame that to my understanding is the 357 answer to the model 69 44 magnums that I currently have.

I purchased the model 69's as a purpose buy. That is "lighter" weight 5 shot 44 magnum that would pack through the woods nicely for either or that could be a decent carry gun in 44 spl for either but especially the 2.75". The 357's I'm looking would be used for the same purposes as the model 69's but without the weight consideration. Especially since the 686's are an L frame too. Now after being so long winded with the explanation, which model and frame size and to a lesser extent why? Thanks in advance again for helping out a newbie!

 

[Ingramite]

For whatever reason I seem to have been bitten by the revolver bug. I just recently purchased the 4.25" model 69 combat magnum 44 magnum and traded for its little brother the 2.75".

Well now I'm looking at 357 magnums with serious intentions. So there's the various model 686's in the L frame which I would most likely look at the 3" and 4". There's also the model 66's in the K frame that to my understanding is the 357 answer to the model 69 44 magnums that I currently have.

I purchased the model 69's as a purpose buy. That is "lighter" weight 5 shot 44 magnum that would pack through the woods nicely for either or that could be a decent carry gun in 44 spl for either but especially the 2.75". The 357's I'm looking would be used for the same purposes as the model 69's but without the weight consideration. Especially since the 686's are an L frame too. Now after being so long winded with the explanation, which model and frame size and to a lesser extent why? Thanks in advance again for helping out a newbie!

For me?
I enjoy learning and looking just about as much as I do buying and shooting.

That means I eat up a lot of time looking at You Tube videos and combing through the various auction sites.

I only tell you that to tell you that particular models that I had my eye on have been replaced by others now. I've even found myself trading a revolver that I just thought that I had to own on the new revolver that I just have to own....crazy I know.

One of the beauties of S&W revolvers is that you have to work pretty hard to find yourself "upside down". If you do your homework and buy at a reasonable price you will be able to trade up or down without too much pain.

Have you noticed that I haven't made a recommendation to you?

Enjoy the hunt.

 

[uncleted327]

Your 69s are L frames, like the 686s. The 66 is a K frame. As for which to go with...the 66 gets you a slightly lighter gun with a slightly thinner cylinder. The 686 gets you an extra round and will work with the holsters for your 69s. Both are great choices but personally I will take the 686 and 7 rounds. The slight gain in weight will never be noticed on the hip.

 

[flagman1776]

The beauty of the M66 is it's lighter weight when carried for long hours... which I did. I love the feel & balance of a 4" 66 (or 3").
If you are more of a shooter, the weight would be no issue so an L frame might be a better pick.
No wrong choice.

 

[dr. mordo]

I have to say that since I got a 44 magnum the 357 has completely lost its allure. My 357s sit in my safe, and lately I've been thinking of selling some of them.

So, my recommendation is:

1. If you don't reload, invest the money in a press and 44 dies. 44 magnum is amazing once you start reloading. The cost of shooting drops drastically, and you can load lighter ammo that is fun to shoot while still having the option of magnum insanity.

2. If you already reload, consider investing in an N frame, which is the ultimate S&W revolver platform. My 4" S&W M29 Classic is my favorite, but my 3" M629 Deluxe gets carried every day. My 6" M629 is a range toy. All are brilliant even though they are modern post-lock guns.

If you are determined to get a .357, I'd say shop around for a good deal on a pre-lock 686. Shooting 357 in a a K frame is not much fun. Unless you reload...

 

[yfdcap]

The correct answer is both. If I had to choose though it would probably go like this. For more carry the 66 with 2.75 barrel. For more range shooting the 686 with 3". I am a snubbie fan though.

 

[BLUEDOT37]

Get the 66-8 snubbie & have a matched set with your 69 snubbie.

I bought my "set" within a month of each other. I ended up putting the Pachmayr Diamond Pros on both (for range use) but the factory S&W grips (which I usually dislike) on the 66-8 did pretty good. Both revolvers shot good & are very controllable.

It's yoke mounted ball detent lockup is a plus, so if you don't need (7) rounds, & a 1/4" more bbl., get the 66-8 snubbie.

.

M66-8, 2-3/4" bbl.

.
.

M69

.

 

[Black Knight]

I have several 357 Magnums. Two Colt Pythons, a 4" S&W 686-1, a 2 1/2" S&W 66-2, a 3" S&W 65-3, and a 4" S&W 28-2. The 66 and 65 are fed a steady diet of 38 Special +P. Everything else gets 125 Gr. SJHP 357 Magnum. The L and N frames will take the recoil and pounding better than the K frames. The good thing about a 357 Magnum revolver is there is so many choices of ammo out there. Experiment with the factory loads to see which you prefer. Also for carry the L frames are not that difficult to conceal and to me are not a burden when carrying in the open. In my opinion a 686 is a near perfect 357.

 

[SeamasterSig]

A 4-inch model 66 is just about perfect in my book. It gives you enough barrel to get most of the potential of the magnum cartridge while still in a handy length and weight. A 4-inch 686 would be a close second for woods carry, as it is not going to be quite as nimble. The L-frame will shine more in target shooting, so if you have a preference for light, really hot ammo, then the 686 is the way to go. Otherwise, if you can restrict yourself to 158 grains and up (which is what you'll likely be carrying in the woods), the K-frame should serve you well without undo concern for the "dreaded forcing cone" issue.

Of course, you probably have an aesthetic preference for the full or half barrel lug, and if so, then that's the one to get, because in truth either will serve you well for woods carry.

 

[Tom_R]

You are going to have to try both out.

If you are referring to the new model 66, it is a beefed up version of it's Predecessors. The current K frame is stronger than the legacy K Frame so the forcing cone issues of the past do not apply to the new model.

If you are going to carry it more than you shoot it, the model 66 may be he way to go. If you are looking for a range gun and some carry, then a 586 or a 686 can't be beaten. The 357 L Frame is one of the best revolvers ever made.

I can tell you that my 586-1 is NEVER going anywhere. It is the most accurate revolver I have ever had, and I have had quite a few S&Ws over the past few years. Perfectly balanced and the bullets go where the sights are pointed. Recoil with factory 357s is tame. I could shoot them all day.

But you will need to try both out. One will speak to you more than the other.

 

[diyj98]

For anything other than concealed carry, I'd go with the 686. Why not get the stronger built gun? It should last longer and it won't recoil as much with hot loads. For the range the weight won't matter and even the weight doesn't make much difference to me in an open woods/hunting type holster.

 

[Electraclyde]

I have the model 69 with 2.75" barrel and a 686+ with 3" barrel. Neither have had any trigger work done. The 69 trigger is far better than the 686. These are the same frames and internals. Go figure??? I am also lusting after the new 66 combat magnum and will get one sometime in the future. I did have an older 66-4?? (Don't remember the - number) have regretted selling it.

 

[cololab]

For anything other than concealed carry, I'd go with the 686. Why not get the stronger built gun? It should last longer and it won't recoil as much with hot loads. For the range the weight won't matter and even the weight doesn't make much difference to me in an open woods/hunting type holster.

This is where I am after years of "experimenting" with the best all around .357 revolver for my purposes; range time and hiking in the woods. My K and N frames (all older models) are now pretty much full time residents of the gun safe.

I rarely carry a revolver as my CCW forearm, so if that is your primary desire a newer K frame model might be a good choice for you.

 

[BAM-BAM]

Been a Smith .357 fan since the 1970s................... IMHO

The best all around utility/duty .357 is a 4 inch L-frame round butt 686....grip-frame and trigger reach of a K-frame......357 toughness of an N-frame....... prefer the looks of a 586 but the stainless 686 is a bit more practical.


The best concealed carry .357 is a 3" K-frame Model 66..... but there were only about 5000 made ....... second best is the much more common 3" Model 65; both for the longer barrel/sight radius and full length ejector rod with an honorable mention going to the 2 1/2" 66.................

These guns are carried a lot and hopefully never shot in anger........for urban carry I prefer +P.38 hollowpoints....... in the woods/mountains 158gr soft point .357s.

 

[Grayfox]

I own K, L and N-frame .357s. In all honesty, ever since the L-frame was invented, the N-frames are used mostly for serious target shooting and the K-frames are rarely shot with magnum ammo. To me, the L-frame is the ideal .357. Strong enough for a steady diet of full house magnums, yet still a good size for all day carry.

 

[Tom_R]

I own K, L and N-frame .357s. In all honesty, ever since the L-frame was invented, the N-frames are used mostly for serious target shooting and the K-frames are rarely shot with magnum ammo. To me, the L-frame is the ideal .357. Strong enough for a steady diet of full house magnums, yet still a good size for all day carry.

That is where I am to GrayFox.

I hade two N frames in 357, and a K Frame. All three were pinned and recessed and really nice. I moved on from all three, although I would love to get another model 19 or a 66.

I picked up a 586-1, 4", and it is the perfect revolver for me. I wouldn't trade it for anything, as I can drive tacks with it. This one was made for me. At least it seems that way.

 

[3rdgeargrndrr]

In all seriousness and if you are truly bitten by the revolver bug, then a 686 AND 66. If youre truly going to carry them 90% of the time you will also need the 60 because weight is always a consideration.

 

[Benchrest1]

Make it easy on yourself and just get both. That way you don't have to decide.

 

[retvet2009]

Ok so thank you all for the replies and wealth of information. Based on what I have read I'm thinking two 686's in similar sizes to my model 69's and a model 60 or other variant of J frame is in my future. I'm 6'2" and 240 lbs so hiding an L frame shouldn't be a problem with the right grips and barrel length. I reload and that's predominantly what I shoot is my reloads. I carry factory ammo but don't shoot much of it. I don't want to have to worry about what I shoot out of a particular firearm. If it's chambered for 357 magnum and I want to shoot a steady diet of 357 I want the firearm to handle what it's chambered for. I doubt that will be the case but I still want it to be able to handle it regardless. The model 60 or other variant of J frame has been considered and chosen as a quick response carry gun. I'm thinking if carried in a coat pocket in cooler weather it would be very easy just to shoot through the coat pocket. Better to live and buy another coat than the alternative, right?

 

[wrkerr]

Did someone say ".357"? My favorite caliber for decades! Started as LEO in 1977 and carried one for years.

Now retired, I still shoot one weekly. Same mold for 40+ years: Lyman 358156 SWCGC. Not a Smith, but a decent old Colt.