Lined Holster

[pantannojack]

Looking for advise on soft lined holsters for k frame 4" and N frame 4" holsters. Something which will not mar the high luster bluing that sirened me into buying them.

 

[Mblhopo]

Most of my holsters are lined with pigskin or goatskin...………………………………M*

 

[Bullet Bob]

Carrying a gun in any holster for long will cause wear . . . or character.

I like the smooth lined holsters made by El Paso Saddlery, others will have their own favorites.

 

[JimmyDee]

I've been happy with lined kydex holsters from Garrett Holsters at

Garrett Holsters

 

[rednichols]

I expect you're looking for a brand recommendation, which is quick and easy for respondents but not very helpful for you. Suggestion: look for a maker that uses a thin VEGETABLE tanned leather lining, grain side next to the pistol vs the sueded side. When I was building, which I don't now, I used kangaroo. Of course then you'll want to have the maker assure you that his/her linings are glued to the main leather .

 

[Walter Rego]

I have a few old holsters that are lined with what I believe is thin calfskin. I bought them used so don't know what the wear on the revolvers looked like but the lining is worn through in a couple of places. Maybe the maker just didn't use a heavy enough weight leather.

When I used to hunt and carry a sidearm I had a couple of the old Safariland holsters that were lined with what they called "orthopedic elk suede" whatever that is and never had any wear to the bluing in that somewhat limited amount of exposure.

 

[rednichols]

I have a few old holsters that are lined with what I believe is thin calfskin. I bought them used so don't know what the wear on the revolvers looked like but the lining is worn through in a couple of places. Maybe the maker just didn't use a heavy enough weight leather.

When I used to hunt and carry a sidearm I had a couple of the old Safariland holsters that were lined with what they called "orthopedic elk suede" whatever that is and never had any wear to the bluing in that somewhat limited amount of exposure.

Very good points . Depending on what you mean by 'old', and expecting that means 'older than my Safarilands' then in that earlier era, indeed calfskin was used -- but the lining was not glued to the body of the holster. That makes the holster far easier to fold in the various places. Which is why I mentioned gluing specifically or the thinner leather will indeed wear through as not being part of a 'unit'. Brills and Myres are especially noted for this; I've disassembled many of 'em and only the stitching is holding it the layers together until the 1960s.

Orthopedic elk' was a brilliant scam by Neale, like all of his and Bill's 'not-what-they-seem' projects (such as filing his patent number two for a laminate without revealing that his patent number one for a holster already incorporated the only novel element of patent number two; fooled us all) -- orthopedic elk is a chrome tanned leather that doesn't react with human skin and has a particular grain rolled into that side; which on a Safariland was always glued against the leather anyway so no benefit of the particular grain to you, the user. Which leads us to understand why its OK to use chrome-tanned leather for lining a holster despite the old wives' tales to the contrary -- lined holsters have been lined into the present day since the 1960s -- with chrome tanned suedes.

 

[chief38]

When I first started carrying I bought suede lined holsters. Not only were they thicker and bulkier, but they seemed to actually pick up more debris than regular well made unlined versions. I would think the more debris in the holster would actually contribute or raise the chances of a gun getting scratched.

Needless to say, I believe that a well made, smooth leather unlined holster is actually safer for a guns finish than a lined one and so an unlined one is what I've been using for 40 years.

You may think I am wrong here - but that has been my experience. I usually follow my instincts.

Regardless if a holster is lined or not, it's not a bad idea to blow the inside out with dry compressed air every one in a while just to clean it out. I'm always amazed what comes out.

 

[jcs266]

When I first started carrying I bought suede lined holsters. Not only were they thicker and bulkier, but they seemed to actually pick up more debris than regular well made unlined versions. I would think the more debris in the holster would actually contribute or raise the chances of a gun getting scratched.

Needless to say, I believe that a well made, smooth leather unlined holster is actually safer for a guns finish than a lined one and so an unlined one is what I've been using for 40 years.

You may think I am wrong here - but that has been my experience. I usually follow my instincts.

Regardless if a holster is lined or not, it's not a bad idea to blow the inside out with dry compressed air every one in a while just to clean it out. I'm always amazed what comes out.

I agree, the concept of a soft lining in a holster sounds like a good idea, but that soft leather actually "grips" grit and debris and holds it there, so you end up having fine abrasives that embed in the lining. This is where the fine scratches accelerate the wear of blueing.

 

[LoboGunLeather]

Most of the major points have been made quite well above. I would add one advisory to the mix:

If your expectation is a holster that will completely eliminate any holster wear to the revolvers during use you will be disappointed, sooner or later. A good holster lining, properly installed, in a properly fitted holster can be expected to significantly reduce abrasion and finish wear over extended use. Regardless of the type of leather lining I recommend removing the handgun after each day's use, wiping down the handgun with an oily rag or silicone-treated cloth, and storing the holster separate from the handgun. All leather products have a tendency to attract and retain moisture (from the atmosphere, from precipitation, from the user's body), and storing a handgun in a leather holster or case is an invitation to corrosion.

Best regards.

 

[LoboGunLeather]

I agree, the concept of a soft lining in a holster sounds like a good idea, but that soft leather actually "grips" grit and debris and holds it there, so you end up having fine abrasives that embed in the lining. This is where the fine scratches accelerate the wear of blueing.

These are valid points to consider. I would add that an unlined holster typically leaves the flesh side of the hide against the interior, and that surface is at least as capable of capturing dust, grit, and debris as any lining leather may do.

Another point for consideration is that of holster fit to the intended handgun. A holster which allows any amount of movement of the handgun within the holster will cause continual abrasion against the handgun finish by shifting the handgun within the holster with each movement of the user's body. A well-fitted holster is recommended to minimize this issue.

 

[delcrossv]

Well, I ordered a smooth lined holster for my 4" pre 29 with minimizing bluing wear in mind. Time will tell, re wear, but it makes sense that a smooth surface will wear less than a rough one.

 

[Igiveup]

Well, who did you decide had the best option?

 

[flagman1776]

I hand made quite a few holsters with swede linings copying what was thought to be the best holsters of the day. I have concluded that a smooth interior is better for wear on the gun finish and better drawing. It can be rough out or a separate lining piece.

Here's a rough out holster I made for a tiny semi-auto.


I don't think it's possible to prevent all wear... holster wear, or from a shooting box, lugging it to the range or a fuzzy zipper case.

 

[snubbyfan]