Thinking about casting.

[68Dave]

I've been reloading for about 6 years now. I load multiple pistol and rifle calibers. I've noticed bullets taking a while longer to get if even available. I'm considering casting. I have a friend who is getting out of casting and offered his entire lot.
500 lbs of wheel weights, 100 lbs of Linotype. Lyman 20lb bottom pour pot with thermometer. Moulds for 44 mag (2) . 45 acp and colt. 357 swc and wc. and a couple others. All Molds come with top punches to match sizer dies and a 450 lubersizer. (No heater)
I'd like to eventually powder coat, but this should get me started.
Do you cast? What are your thoughts? Would you do it all again?
Thank you,
David

 

[rockquarry]

Sort of like handloading, casting is a hobby unto itself. Many fail to realize that with handgun cartridges, a plain cast bullet that fits and is cast of the proper alloy for the load will shoot at least as accurately as the most accurate jacketed bullet, and with no leading.

However, you don't learn to make such bullets overnight. The learning experience is much too slow for today's want-it-right-now folks.

I've enjoyed casting, but it took me years before I began to be really satisfied with the performance of my own bullets. I continue to work on improving things. I haven't seen a need or advantage to powder coating as a conventional sizer/lubricator still works very well.

Much of the same can be said for cast rifle bullets.

 

[ddixie884]

If the price is competitive, I would say try it. You know more about your situation than we do but casting is a rewarding hobby and it never hurts to learn new things. Without knowing the real particulars of the equipment, it is hard to say but that sounds like a coupla hundred dollars either side of a grand worth of casting equipment and supplies. That is if you are trying to decide if it is worth a try.

 

[mikld]

The down side of home casting is alloy/lead availability. The up side it it is a whole new world of shooting and possibly more satisfying than reloading.

I normally suggest Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook as a starting source of info and a couple places to visit on line; an excellent source for all casting info Cast bullet reference on lead alloy's, min / max pressure, lube, shrinkage, And a forum that discusses all aspects of casting boolits from alloying to molds, lubes and everything else cast boolit related, Cast Boolits

I have been casting for about 30 years and I haven't found any two better sources of info, anywhere. I have often heard "The only way to learn to cast bullets, is to cast bullets", so read up on the basics, clean your molds, melt some lead and pour some bullets (no one needs to know about your mistakes as they can be "hidden" quite easily by remelting your faux pas).

I started with a Coleman stove, 2 qt, stainless steel pot, a Lee mold, a Lee dipper and I fluxed with candle wax. I lubed with an old Lee pan lubing/sizing kit. This setup kept my 44s in bullets for about 12 months before I got a bottom pour pot. I now have 14+ molds and close to a half ton of lead and bullet alloy. Casting opened up a new side of my shooting/reloading that is extremely satisfying and loads of fun...

 

[Hang-Fire Hank]

GREAT START !

Dave:
Wow! 500#'s of WW's & 100#'s of Lino? That might last you the rest of your life, depending (obviously) how much shooting you'll do & your age. Before any further comments, your "friend" must have a Lube/Sizer and some sizer dies, which you'll need if you cast. Also, fluxing material.
As rockquarry pointed out, casting itself is a hobby...just like reloading. That quantity of casting media, AT A GOOD PRICE, would be a great start.
Factors affecting price: Have the clips been removed from the WW's? Are any of the WW's the newer style that aren't all lead? If not, pass on the whole deal! Way too difficult (time consuming) to separate the lead from the other metal (can't recall what it's called). Fresh foundry lead is too expensive to begin casting.
Don't cast to immediately save $$. Over the long run, maybe. You'll find you'll "want" more moulds (new are pricey), more lube/sizer dies, more than one pot, etc.
Also keep in mind, you need a casting location that has a breeze or where you may set a fan to keep the fumes away from your breathing.
I've been casting for over 37 yrs & still do so as an Ol' Timer, but mainly due to unavailability of casting media, I don't recommend it to a young man.
Good Luck, Hank M.

 

[Rpg]

Casting is relatively simple and not difficult to master. It's a hobby that you can refine over time.

If the wheel weights are the older lead and antimony items, that's a great haul: you'd be set for a very long time. Real Linotype is very hard to find. The hardware is just fine, although you may find you need other molds (nothing wrong with the listed molds, they just may not be what you want). Of course, price can make a huge difference.

I enjoy casting. Your mileage may vary.

 

[reddog81]

What's the price? Anything under $1,000 is probably a decent deal, but that depends some on the molds. If the molds are all Lee it'd drop the value some.

Any price under $750 is a good deal and the lead is worth about that much alone.

You don't need a heater for the Lyman lubesizer. I use a heat gun but a hair dryer would work. It takes about 30 seconds to get the lube following and that only needs to be done again if you're sizing for extended sessions.

Casting and sizing is a hobby and it does take a moderate amount of time. Not tons of time, but it's easy to blow 2 hours casting and then sizing a batch of bullets. I started using Lee Alox, switched to PC very quickly and now also have a lubesizer which works great assuming you have the right sizing dies. Bullets are the most expensive part of reloading for any handgun round and most rifle rounds. Casting Allows to drop that price significantly.

 

[lrrifleman]

I have been reloading since 1977, and I started casting for pistol bullets around 2002. I would cast as I needed bullets, but that has been interrupted due to an accident that left me disabled. I hope to do some casting before winter sets in.

If I were to start casting (for the first time) now, I would probably take the powder coating route because it appears to be less expensive than purchasing a lubri-sizer. I haven't priced a new lubri-sizer recently, but I would expect the lubri-sizer, sizing dies and top punches could easily push you over the $300 mark. If you powder coat, expect your costs could look like this:
Lee mold $25
Lee sizer $25
A toaster oven (dedicated solely to powder coating) $20
Powder coating $7-25 (depending on brand)

Either way, you will still need/have your reloading equipment.

Before the accident in 2007, I could load a box of 38 Special WC or SWC for about $0.80 a box, 357 Magnums for about a buck a box, and 45 ACP SWCs in the same price range. For those bullets, I would quench cast them, not something you want to do if you powder coat. Typically, I would recycle wheel weights.

Would it be something I would do again? Absolutely. I can be up and shooting when others are being selective about when and what they are shooting. Casting will keep you shooting and well supplied with bullets. Cast bullets can also be used as trading fodder, I would seriously consider trading some of my cast bullets for primers, but never for powder.

 

[rockquarry]

I still have about about a hundred pounds of linotype and I've had it for a long time. I used to use a lot of it, but as I gained a little insight into casting, I've learned that softer alloys work well, and usually better, for high-velocity handgun chamberings as well as many rifle loads. I still use linotype to slightly harden something like range scrap that may be too soft as is.

The editor of a cast bullet magazine mentioned years ago that the softest bullet fired at the highest velocity that doesn't cause leading will usually be the most accurate. That may be an oversimplification, but I've found it to be basically true in almost all instances.

When linotype was plentiful, many of us used it for everything. It would still work for that, but it would be necessary to play around with bullet diameters, powders, and load data for best results.

 

[4barrel]

You lucky dog. Sounds like it fell out of the sky. Lyman still makes rebuild kits for the 450. Good rubber seals are a must. 10 pounds of wheel weights to 1/2 pound of linotype and a small amount of bullet lube and mix and run it about 800 degrees. Dip the slag off. I use a small solder iron with a heat reducer for my 450s. I have 4 set up 44-45-& 38. Drill a hole in the base for the iron to fit. 50/50 soft lube works good and you can tell when the 450 is warm enough. It doesn't take much. I heat mine with a hair drier and then the iron takes over. I like the orange lube the best. Size your bullets to the cylinder throat size or .001 over and you get 0 leading. Get a heat plate for the molds-they need to be hot. Or set on the lead pot when you plug it in. There is nothing hard about casting it just takes time. The mold has to be hot to make a pretty bullet. DON't spray the mold with wd40- It takes forever to cast a good bullet. I use carburetor spray on mine. Smoke your bullet mold with a candle & leave it on. The bullets drop easier. Put the mold on a board and whack it with a hammer handle and the bullets fall out. No need to clean the mold -just store in a dry place. Here is a photo of where I drilled the hole for the solder iron.

 

[gwrench]

I'd definitely do it all over again. Casting is just another facet of the whole reloading hobby. When there are shortages of components it just becomes even more satisfying. Hot metal requires close attention but it's not difficult to produce a big pile of nice bullets in a couple of hours.

I use a 450 lube sizer with SPG lube. It's soft enough that I have never used the heater. Other lubes would probably require it.

Running a bunch of bullets through the lube sizer is repetitive but I find it almost relaxing.

Someday I will probably try powder coating but I only shoot outdoors so smoke is not an issue.

I say you should at least give it a try. Will your friend let you sit with him and cast a little to try it out?

 

[BRL40]

...I say you should at least give it a try. Will your friend let you sit with him and cast a little to try it out?

That right there sounds like a really good idea.

I don't cast at this time myself, but getting personal instruction from the seller and finding out if I'd even like casting before making a significant $$$ investment just sounds wise.

 

[Stroker468]

I see no downside. You can easily sell all on the list if you dont enjoy it.

 

[68Dave]

Thank you for all the responses. All the dies are Lyman except one NOE 300 grain 44 mag and one Lee 45 acp. Unfortunately though they are all two cavity except for a few single cavity round ball moulds. I'd like to try some of the 4 or six cavity moulds later. Glad to hear that the lubersizer is still being used. I watched a video series to learn about it. Unfortunately the seller hasn't cast in quiet a few years and I'd hate to ask him to fire it all back up. All tools and accessories have been stored inside and climate controlled. He also has a Saeco bullet tester included in the deal. I'm gonna get the Lyman book and he's giving me his copy of "jacketed performance with cast bullets". All the wheel weights appeared to still have the clips. They were likely collected 15-20 years ago so I'm hoping no zinc. I've got an outdoor fryer coming from my Dad, just need a big cast iron dutch oven or pot to start making ingots. I'm excited to learn something new. Thanks for letting me talk about it.
David.

 

[gwrench]

You'll be able to separate those clips pretty easily. It can be a little confusing to see them float on a pool of liquid though.

Here's another read about bullet casting. The PDF is available to download for free too.

From Ingot to Target: A Cast Bullet Guide For Handgunners, Table of Contents - Fryxell/Applegate

 

[SweetMK]

I have a guy I go to for tires, and some repairs,,
I asked if he would sell me one of the buckets of wheel weights he had by the tire machine,,

He told me to bring a bucket,, I went to Lowes and got a blue bucket,,

Well I returned, he said back your truck over here,,
We lifted one of the full buckets on the back of my truck,
it has to weigh 200 pounds, easily,,

He refused ANY money, I even offered to buy lunch,, NOPE,,

I think he saves the weights as trading fodder for his regular tire customers,,
Other tire stores said they had a waiting list for the weights,, to "BUY" them.

Now, I gotta sort out the zinc, and steel weights,, I watched a video on how to sort,,,

If there are many zinc weights, I will make a hanging weight for my tractor, similar to the 42 pound iron weights I use.

 

[SMSgt]

I've thought about casting a time or two, but around here nearly all the wheel weights are zinc. Just hasn't crossed the affordable cost threshold yet to buy lead.

 

[reddog81]

You might want to verify the wheel weights are mainly lead before valuing them. 500 pounds of WWs can turn into not much lead if there's a bunch of steel, zinc and other trash mixed in. I bought 500 lbs of WWs earlier this year and was happy to get a little over 300 pounds of lead. I paid $200 for the lot. It took a couple hours spread out over the course of a week to get them all sorted. These were pretty old. I've seen buckets at the local tire shop and I don't think 10% of the weights were lead.

2 cavity molds are good for learning, but not so great for turning 20 lbs of lead ingots into bullets.

 

[SweetMK]

but around here nearly all the wheel weights are zinc.

You might want to verify the wheel weights are mainly lead before valuing them.

I've seen buckets at the local tire shop and I don't think 10% of the weights were lead.

2 cavity molds are good for learning, but not so great for turning 20 lbs of lead ingots into bullets.

When I unloaded the bucket I was given, I did a "bend test" on the unmarked ones that covered the top half inch,,

I could bend 80% of the weights, easily,,
The guy in the video could score lead weights with his fingernail,,
he must drink a LOT more milk than me,, I could barely mark the lead weights with my fingernail.

BUT, luckily, I have a use for ALL of the weights,, I am always needing more weights for my tractors,,

Right now, I move the ones I have from tractor, to tractor,, because I do not have enough weights.

In this pic, the weights are on the middle tractor, the left tractor does not have any,,, YET!!

Guys, share those zinc weights with one of your farmer tractor buddies!!

They might even invite you over to shoot some groundhogs!!

 

[4barrel]

The wheel weights should be lead. Zinc will float anyway. Take the 450 apart completely and put in a container on a hot plate and it will melt the old lube out. And the lead pot-- When you get through casting --fill the pot back up for next time. It is a lot easier and will save time.