I think my J frame just became second fiddle

Notaglock

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I saw a well used 1985 3" round butt model 64-3 with PD markings and a factory spurless hammer in the for sale section last month and couldn't help myself. With a bit of a shipping delay and Maryland's waiting period, it took a while to actually get it in my sweaty little hands. After a complete disassembly and thorough cleaning, I blended out a few scuffs and dings, polished the internals, chamfered the charging holes, recrowned the muzzle, contoured the trigger, glass beaded the exterior and reassembled it with lighter duty/carry trigger return spring and a tweaked mainspring. The jury is still out on cutting a dovetail in the front sight and pouring a red insert. The purists out there will have to forgive me for using the new style thumb piece 🥴
 

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I saw a well used 1985 3" round butt model 64-3 with PD markings and a factory spurless hammer in the for sale section last month and couldn't help myself. With a bit of a shipping delay and Maryland's waiting period, it took a while to actually get it in my sweaty little hands. After a complete disassembly and thorough cleaning, I blended out a few scuffs and dings, polished the internals, chamfered the charging holes, recrowned the muzzle, contoured the trigger, glass beaded the exterior and reassembled it with lighter duty/carry trigger return spring and a tweaked mainspring. The jury is still out on cutting a dovetail in the front sight and pouring a red insert. The purists out there will have to forgive me for using the new style thumb piece 🥴

If it shoots and carries as good as it looks, I don't blame you.
 
Nice work. Beautiful job. What about the leather? I like to know about
the leather almost as much as the gun.

1791 Gunleather. This is my third one. Very well made and I almost forget my J frame is there...but the 64 is a bit heavier.
 

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I like that muzzle crown. It's a working tool, so set it up how you want. I always at least "dehorn" any sharp edges with some fine emory paper as my guns are all carried to one degree or another, so sharp edges are a no-go.
 
I like that muzzle crown. It's a working tool, so set it up how you want. I always at least "dehorn" any sharp edges with some fine emory paper as my guns are all carried to one degree or another, so sharp edges are a no-go.

I break the sharp edges with a 72 TPI Swiss file and finish with 400 grit wet/dry paper before bead blasting. This one had a few dings that completely disappeared when it was finished. A recessed target crown on a 3" barrel is a bit on the optimistic side, but I like the way they look.
 

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I'm (almost) always happy to see folks personalizing their daily driver.
This looks eminently practical. I'd justify the recess crown as "that way it will still shoot straight if it should get dropped in a struggle". :-)
So, well done! If I put on my nit-picking hat: It might be the angle of the light but it looks like the beadblast might be a bit uneven between say the frame and barrel. I expect it will blend with age but I'll say I've had good luck with a walnut blast after glass bead to blend things in. I think the only other thing I might do is break the sharp corners on the extractor where it transitions to the charge hole just to prevent a hard catch there with a soft lead nose. Of course I can understand not wanting to do anything that might interfere with ejection.
 
I'm (almost) always happy to see folks personalizing their daily driver.
This looks eminently practical. I'd justify the recess crown as "that way it will still shoot straight if it should get dropped in a struggle". :-)
So, well done! If I put on my nit-picking hat: It might be the angle of the light but it looks like the beadblast might be a bit uneven between say the frame and barrel. I expect it will blend with age but I'll say I've had good luck with a walnut blast after glass bead to blend things in. I think the only other thing I might do is break the sharp corners on the extractor where it transitions to the charge hole just to prevent a hard catch there with a soft lead nose. Of course I can understand not wanting to do anything that might interfere with ejection.

It's probably just the lighting and a cell phone lens that makes it look uneven, or the difference in the hardness between the components that cause it to look slightly different. Either way, I'll give your walnut media a shot on the next one. Thanks for the tip.

I'll be carrying it with the same 135gr Gold Dot +P hollow points I use in my J frame. I tested them last night with a couple Safariland comp II speed loaders and everything dropped in smoothly.
 
I like what you did. I've got 7 three-inch revolvers myself, all different configurations. I could see yours fitting in nicely. In my book, that's about the best endorsement you can get.
I have looked at 1791 holsters a few times (a local gun shop carries them in-store) and I think they are very impressive. The price has been the barrier for me so far. Sooner or later, I'll either have the funds or I'll find one for a better price. If only I wouldn't spend all of the gun money on the guns themselves!
Anyway, Congrats, good work on your part and a darn good-looking revolver that you can justifiably be proud of. :)
 
Mr. haywood. very nice looking working revolver. i don't know your employment status but you could for sure farm out some of that skill. i have a 681 4 inch that could benefit from such. great job, krs/kenny
 

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My first EDC was a 2" RB M10. It served me very well, shot incredibly well and was dead nuts accurate. That said, I no longer wanted to tote around 26-27 ounces and a bulkier gun that shot the same cartridge as my M60 did. Of course the M10 was a much better and more comfortable shooter - but as my EDC the M10 was just a bit too heavy for my liking.

Like a dummy, I sold my 2" RB M10 and wish I never had. It does make a GREAT night table gun. Today I have a 3" M65 RB - love it!

For those who belt carry and don't mind the extra weight, nothings beats a 2-3" M10, M65, M64 etc. K Frame for shoot-ability - some of Smith's best!
 
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Mr. haywood. very nice looking working revolver. i don't know your employment status but you could for sure farm out some of that skill. i have a 681 4 inch that could benefit from such. great job, krs/kenny

I'm not sure who Mr. Haywood is but thanks for the compliment. I'm an Italian motorcycle mechanic that tinkers with guns as a way to relax after work. That's a nice 681! I have an addiction for fixed sight heavy barrel Smiths...wish they would have made a 3" round butt stainless 41 mag...a "658 combat magnum" so to speak.
 
Like a dummy, I sold my 2" RB M10 and wish I never had. It does make a GREAT night table gun. Today I have a 3" M65 RB - love it!

For those who belt carry and don't mind the extra weight, nothings beats a 2-3" M10, M65, M64 etc. K Frame for shoot-ability - some of Smith's best!

My first S&W was a really worn 4" square butt Model 10 police trade in that I picked up for 35 years ago for $100. It was still tight but the muzzle had so much holster wear it almost looked flat on the sides. I cut it to 3", round butted it, bobbed the hammer and cold blued it. I had it for several years until a buddy offered me three times what I paid for it....still wish I'd have kept that one too.
 
That is one sweet, CCW Model 64! As much as I like the compactness of the J-frame S&W revolvers, the K-frames tend to fit hands better and are easier to control.
 

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