New to reloading

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As the title says, I am new to reloading, and I'm hoping to tap into the expertise on this forum. I am looking to begin acquiring the equipment and supplies to start ( I know, couldn't have picked a worse time), but would like some opinions as to best brands to consider, and those to stay away from. If you were starting out, and knowing what you know now, what equipment would you get?
As a shooter, I don't shoot hundreds, or thousands, of rounds a month. I'm a hobby guy and a hunter, so I'm looking to get the best results of consistency and accuracy out of my rifles and handguns.
I'm guessing a single stage setup might fit me best…..
What do you think?
Thanks for the help.
 
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Welcome to reloading.

A single stage press is not a bad choice. Evenb though I have progressive presses, I still use a single stage quite a bit.

I began with RCBS equipment and that is still a good choice. Redding is equally good. Hornady and Lyman are also good choices.

Orf late I've been using the Redding T7 turret press. It is a single stage, but has multiple die stations that I find handy.

For dies I do lean to Redding or RCBS though others are capable.

I recommend an electronic scale as they offer easier reading with less potential to misread.

If you do not already have a reloading manual, get one - or several. Speer, Hornady, Lyman and Sierra are likely first choices, but there are others as well. You should try to use data developed with the bullets you are going to use. Therefore, if you are using Sierra bullets, the Sierra manual is the best place to begin. Improvements in testing have shown that the data is highly dependent on the bullet. A 150gr Hornady will give different results than a 150gr Sierra and such.

Don't be afraid to ask questions.
 
40 years experience here, rifle and both types of handgun.

1. I recommend the Redding Big Boss single stage press. I wore out my old RCBS Jr and got a Boss recently.

2. Dies by RCBS or Redding or Hornady are fine.

3. For both pistol and revolver, use a four die set. Buy an extra seat/crip die. Use die #3 for seating only, and die #4 for crimping.

4. Use the RCBS bench priming tool.

5. Get the little RCBS flip tray for primers.

6. WASH your brass before any processing.

7. I use a 40 year old beam balance scale. Works more reliably than some of these new-fangled digital things.

8. If you are reloading without using MTM loading blocks, you are an accident waiting to happen. Them and a flashlight prevent many a problem.

9. Use a powder trickler for working up loads, and a powder dumper once you get going.

10. I recommend standardizing on one bullet weight and type for each cartridge. I stick to the original weights, i.e. 158 grain in .38 and .357, 230 grain in .45 ACP, etc. Feel free to vary this if you need a specialized bullet for hunting, etc.

11. Ball powder measures easier than flake powder. Flake powder measures easier than stick powder.


My hierarchy of loading data:

1st. Powder manufacturer's recent data.
2nd. Bullet manufacturers' reloading manuals.
3rd. Third party manuals such as Lyman.
4th. Internet talk (use only with extreme caution and only if you already thoroughly know what you are doing and why).

Extrapolation: DON'T do it. I did recently when I wanted a mid range load in .44 magnum and nothing was published. I extrapolated from .45 Colt data. But I knew what I was doing and why, and I was far, far below any SAAMI maximum pressures. You are not at that level so do not be tempted.





Most importantly:

Buy SEVERAL legit reloading manuals. Study them. Memorize them. Don't just reload mechanically, understand the why of each step. If you don't understand something, stop right there and do not proceed until you do understand.
 
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First: Buy a reloading manual, anybodies, Lyman, Lee, Hornady. All have a good section on getting started. Next, see if any of your friends reload. One of them will probably be glad to show you the ropes. There are plenty of good sites on the web that offer instruction on getting started. Everyone uses a little different system and there is no wrong way,,, so long as you work safe and figure out what works best for you. Somewhere in the tips section of this forum, there is a tutorial on getting started, it has a ton of good info. HTH

At the top of page sticky "Notable Threads"
 
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You'll probably get lots of different answers, but I'd say to start out, a single stage press is a good idea. I think it's best at first to do one step at a time. Unfortunately, now is not a good time to start looking for components. Powder you can find enough to get going, bullets are obtainable, brass is hard to get, and primers are unobtainable unless you're willing to pay exorbitant prices.

At a very minimum you'll need a good sturdy table, a press with a set of dies for each caliber, a balance or digital scale, a decent set of calipers, some case gauges, a powder measure and a reloading manual (I'd start with Lyman), some reloading blocks, and all your components. Before loading a single bullet, I'd read one or two manuals to get at least a basic understand of the process.

I've always used RCBS because I find their gear to be good quality and at the same time affordable. There are many good makers of re-loading equipment. RCBS does sell package deals with everything you would need. I bought one of those from Midway for my son who wanted to take up re-loading. It's a good option.

It's also a good idea, if you can, to find a mentor who has experience re-loading who can walk you through some of the important steps, and keep you from learning the hard way.

There's lots of members on this forum from Oregon who re-load, including myself. I'd bet most would be willing to lend a hand with a few pointers if asked.
 
Welcome to your new addiction. I've been reloading for over 50 years. Everything from the 32 S&W to the 50/70.

All the posts above are spot on. And like those above, I use a mix of RCBS, Lyman, Dillon and Redding equipment depending on what I'm doing. Surprisingly, much of the equipment dates back to the earliest years of my reloading.

Given the high quality of the companies above, don't be afraid to spend a few dollars for top drawer equipment. It literally will last a lifetime. Don't be penny wise and dollar stupid.

I think that it was Dean Grenell who wrote "The ABCs of Reloading." It is a great primer for the new reloader. Over the years I've collected probably 10 different reloading manuals and they all get researched from time to time.

Another very useful tool is a good chronograph to see just what your loads are doing. Keep a good log too as you can always return to it for the details of a good load. Don't trust your memory with powder charges.

Best of luck with your new adventure.
 
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If they haven't been blocked on Utube watch some videos of folks reloading on a single stage vs turret, vs progressive to get some ideas on functionality.

I started with a single stage. That lasted about a year before I bought a Turret Press. Best investment I made. Biggest advantage for me is that I can walk away after running a single round. Compared to a single stage where you typically use a loading block to process a batch of 50 or 100 rounds running each stage thru a single stage press.

For me it's a wonderful hobby. I only wish I started before I turned 55.
 
For starting out the two presses I would recommend are RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme (can handle huge dies for huge cartridges, like 20 & 12 gauge and 577 Nitro Express. Can also be converted to Lock- and- Load collets by Hornady). Second is a good turret Press. I have a Redding T-7, but the large RCBS and Lyman's are great too!

A good scale is a must! I have RCBS/Ohas beam scales, 5-0-5 and 5-10-5 are great. I own digital scale with powder dispenser, suppose to be more accurate and faster. Reality is lots of cash for no production increase.

A good powder drop will increase production per hour, just remember you get what you pay for! Lee's are very affordable. Top of the line are very expensive! I have 2 I use all the time, Lyman No. 55 (It was only $10 more for the Black Powder variant) and a Reding BR-30. For my 1000 yard stuff I use a large spoon to get a bunch of powder on the scale then fine adjust from there. (there is nothing that is both accurate and quick for huge charges. 338 Lapua runs 90-120 grains!)

Dies are a very touchy subject! Customer Service ay outweighs a few dollars price difference!!! Lyman CS has dropped to 1 year warrantee, RCBS and REDDING pretty much don't use a warrantee system. Unless you abuse it, they repair or replace it! (Nobody covers decapping pins!)
I recommend you stick to one brand of dies if you can. If something breaks then you can swipe parts off other dies until replacements arrive.

I didn't get that advice and have 7 brands of standard dies and also have 2 or 3 other systems beside the 7/8"-14 common thread! I stock 6 different decapping pins, instead of just on brand of Large & Small!

Reloading Manuals in my order of preference:

Latest edition Lyman

Sierra

Hornady

Nosler

Burger (kind of Target specialized!)

The last 2 are not it the above order. Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook #4, and from 1970's Lyman 45th Edition (extremely useful for older cartridges and has a Unique loading for every cartridge made at the time!)

Any real loading manual will have good set up & usage instructions. You don't need "The A B S's of reloading" (have met the author, he is a professional author and not much of a reloader! Blew both his hands off reloading when 15).

Have fun entering our "hobby" (more like obsession). The best advice is "Buy Once and only Cry Once!" Good equipment will outlast 3 generations, junk is very affordable but is short lived.

Ivan
 
9 years ago, I started reloading with a single stage press. I still am and never plan to change. I bought the start up kit from Hornady.

Digital scales are trash. They're inconsistent. I have an RCBS beam scale. The 505 model, I think.

I would recommend batch loading. Prep your brass in batches. Tumble, re-size/de-prime, expand, then prime the cases. I have a big bin of brass under my bench, ready to load.

I use Lee 4 die sets. I seat and crimp in separate steps.

Get two ammo blocks. One for the empty and primed brass you are loading, and one for the cases you just loaded. Put the empty brass with primer facing up so you know it's empty.

I dump powder(weigh every charge. No ka-booms for me), and seat bullet. When I have 50, I switch out the die to the crimp die and crimp them all. This way, I can reload as few as I want. I used to dump the powder for all 50 and then use a flashlight to check the levels before seating bullet. One time, my hand bumped something and I spilled the powder in the case into the open cases in the block. Had to dump them all and start over. Never again.

I've settled on one powder for all pistol, so no chance of mixing up powders. I use HP38. Meters dead on every time.

I have a separate powder thrower for rifle and pistol. No chance of mixing up powders or combining them.

Buy a good manual and read it.

Watch lots of YouTube videos, if they're still up there. I download the ones I like and keep them on my phone for reference.

Keep the data for the caliber you are loading open on the bench as you load. I double check things as I go. A bit OCD, but better safe than sorry.

Spend the money now. In a few thousand rounds it's paid for. I'm still cranking out 100 rounds of 9MM for $13, while others are paying three times that now, and many more times that two years ago. All in, I'd say I have invested maybe $1500 on all my equipment, and I have stuff many would consider to be unnecessary. Wet and dry tumblers, ultrasonic cleaners, powered brass trimmers (for rifle only. Never trimmed pistol brass), case gauges, calipers, you name it. Birthdays, Christmas, Father' Day, Anniversaries. All good excuses to get what you need. My first few years that was all I asked for.

Prices are falling now but still not where they were. Stock up on components for the long haul, as they become available. Primers especially. That was my one error. I have plenty for my rate of reloading, but not enough to make me comfortable. I intend to rectify thst situation when I can.

Many say you don't save money reloading, you just shoot more for less. Not me. My shooting increased when I started reloading, but not by much. I'm still saving over buying factory.

I don't love reloading. I don't spend hours at the bench. I don't hate it, either. It's just a way for me to be immune to shortages like we have now and a means to an end. Once you're up and running, you do it as you feel the need to.

Good luck and be safe!
 
Wise to make some dummy rounds and see if they fit and cycle the action if an autoloader.
We keep one dummy for each caliber and the various bullets as it saves a bit of time with seater die setups.

Money comes and goes but time is worth saving as we all run out of it eventually. :D
Buy quality gear.

Good idea to mention the calibers you'll be loading as the replies will focus in that direction.
 
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I just have a Lee classic cast, but it has been great and if I ever move up it will still be useful. The two main things I would have done different:

1 Skip the Lee Loader. I hated having to wear hearing protection to reload!

2 When you find a component you like, buy in size for future needs.
 
Start with a single stage press and learn the ropes on it . Easier to see every step and somewhat safer . You will always have a need for a single stage even if you go on to a progressive .
You sound a lot like me ... interested in making good accurate safe ammo , I started with a single stage , 50 years later I have 4 single stage presses and one Turret Press that I rescued from a trash heap and restored .
Get several Loading Manuals and read the informative chapters contained in each ... lots of great info in there . I rely a lot on Hornady , Speer , Western , Lyman 50th Anniversity and Lyman Cast Bullet Manual #3 & #4 (I cast for all my firearms) .
A better choice than the Lee Classic (Whack-A-Mole) Loader is the Lee Hand Press Kit ... it's a single stage press , hand held , hand operated (it doesn't need a bench mounting) ...the Hand Press Kit + a set of lee Dies will give you everything to get started ... Do Buy a Powder Scale ... You will need a scale no matter what . I reload all my handgun & 30-30 with a hand press ... it's a neat little reloader and usually "In Stock" !
Good Luck finding supplies .
Gary
 
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I'm comming up 1 full year of reloading experience, so take that into consideration.

Skip the single stage gear unless you are reloading for very specific results. I started my journey with a Lee Loadmaster Progressive press and I love it. My son started out on a single stage press and regretted buy a "kit" after just a few weeks with it.

The Lee Reloading Manual has been open on my bench since day one. It's my go-to source when needed.

Forums can be a great resource but Youtube is where you can really gain the most info, tips and unbiased. Info. Watch any video from Ultimate Reloader as a primer before you spend a single cent on reloading equipment.

Best of luck to you, you're going to have a great time!
 
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I won't add to the confusion by chipping in my 2 cents but I will recommend you listen to The Reloading Podcast:
Reloading Podcast — Firearms Radio Network

I went back to the beginning and I'm up to about episode 150 of the 360 or so available. Lots of growing pains for them so far (to the point I'm at) but they focus on new reloaders and often do episodes on just starting out. I listen to it at odd times, driving around, doing chores, reloading, whatever.

Even after decades of reloading, I learn things. For instance, I never knew I could just use a shell holder in my kinetic bullet puller after I lose some of the stupid little cloverleaf holders it came with.
 
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Been reloading now for 15 years, so I'm still new at it... Ha!

Best decision I ever made. I get great quality ammo that is more accurate, and waaay less expensive than the factory stuff. Plus, I'll never again be without ammunition, or be dependent on the whims of the market!

Great advice has already been given above, but I'll try to share some random thoughts on reloading. First, you mentioned that you're mainly interested in reloading for hunting, and just low volume shooting. So, you may be just fine with a single stage press. It's a less complicated, lower cost way of doing it.

I started out reloading shot shells for Trap and Sporting Clays, then progressed to center fire cartridges shortly after. When I first started, I debated single stage vs. turret vs. progressive. I almost went single stage, but realized that with my personality, I just couldn't bear the slow, tedious nature of the single stage process. I understand and respect those that are firmly in the single stage camp/mindset, but it wasn't for me. I got a progressive MEC shot shell loader, figured that out just fine. And that helped give me the confidence to go beyond single stage for my center fire reloading.

Was still concerned about the process with center fire ammunition, so I started with a Lee Turret press. Kind of like a single stage machine, kind of like a progressive machine. Definitely more efficient than single stage! Did that for about a year, and then got a Hornady LnL progressive press. I just recently, finally got my Dillon 650 press set up, as well. Love my progressive reloaders!

If you are a detail oriented person, that is mechanically inclined, I'd say that progressive is the way to go. So much more efficient. I still take my time, and I'm very careful about the process, it's just so much more productive.

In my experience, Lee makes good equipment at a very reasonable price. I wouldn't get a Lee Progressive loader (too finicky), but would consider them for their 'Classic' turret press, I like the replaceable tool heads. I do think that, for single stage and turret machines that Redding is great (very stout machine), and RCBS is very good, as well. For dies, I run mostly Redding and Lee, and then some RCBS and Hornady.

More important than equipment, listen to everyone's advice and truly read all you can about reloading. Buy, and read good reloading manuals. I started with Henry Lee's "Modern Reloading." Excellent book/source of information. I read it cover to cover before I did anything. He does talk up his products in the book a little, but his insight and knowledge is top of the class stuff. Highly recommend... But, don't stop at one, read the Lyman manual, Hornady manual, ABC's of Reloading, etc. Ken Walters' "Pet Loads" is an awesome collection of information, and I recommend it highly if you really want to get serious about what your producing.

Again, you've got great advice from the guys that posted above. I love the comment about always thinking about the "why" behind things, not just the mechanical 'what' is happening.

Also, some here's some other random thoughts:

When reloading, be sure that you don't have distractions. This is serious stuff, rocket science really, you need to be focused and alert. Use loads from the manuals, not some random guy on the internet (or, at least check that guy's load against what's written in the manual...). Double check things. Have a case gauge, and/or barrel to check your completed rounds before you make a bunch more. Test loads before you make a big quantity. Get a chronograph. Don't keep multiple powers on your bench at one time. Journal your reloading notes/load work ups. Have containers/baggies to keep separate loads, and label them! Discard questionable components and/ammo, not worth your fingers, or face. Have a backup mechanical scale, and have 'check' weights. Have good lighting over your press. Visually check for powder in the case, EVERY time. Buy quality gear, buy once, cry once. Take your time, be careful. Have a bullet puller.

And last, but certainly not least, buy components when there's not a panic market, and buy a lot of them, they never get cheaper...!!
 
Congrats!!

Read, read, read, Be careful who and where you get reloading advice from. I get mine exclusively from reloading manuals and I have never been disappointed. My favorite reload books in order are:
(1) Speer
(2) Lee revised and updated Manual
(3) Hornady

All excellent books, great safe data, and excellent advise.
Be safe! Have fun.
 
I started reloading in 1975 with a mail-order Herter's Model 3 single-stage reloading kit. I have no doubt when the day comes that I load my last round, it will still be on that Model 3 SS press. I'm still using some of the other Herter's gear to this day.

If I were running competitions or spending weekends doing 30-round mag dumps, the Herter's would be insufficient, but I reload as much ammo as I need with it. I trade my time for the cost of ammo and get the exact product I want. No kit will have everything you will need, but the RCBS has most of it.
 
I started reloading about ten years ago, and bought a Hornady Lock 'N Load setup, figuring to upgrade it as I went. ten years later, I'm still using most of it, I did convert to a digital scale from the beam scale included with the set. I have no problems staying with a single-stage press, I can still load 400-500 rounds in an afternoon of handgun ammo and 200 or so of rifle. I break up the processes to shorten the time, mainly by throwing the brass into the tumbler as soon as I get back from a range trip, and then depriming and sizing the brass, and trimming if necessary. Then the only thing left for a loading session is new primers powder and bullets. The Lock 'N Load setup comes with whatever the current edition Hornady manual is, currently the 11th Ed.

I'm not faithful to one brand of dies, though, I have a mix of Lee, Hornady and RCBS for the 12 calibers I load for. Some die sets will load more than one caliber, such as .40S&W and 10mm or .38Spl and .357 Magnum.

Take your time, and start out with simple loads, and always work up from the lower power/velocity end of the charts. Unique seems to fit a broad range of calibers, but you'll find that different powders for different calibers and desired loads will bump up your inventory of powder pretty quickly, if you can find them. Same with bullet weights, and at the moment, primers seem to be the current unicorn. New brass may be somewhat difficult, but once-fired isn't too bad. I stay away from range brass unless I see someone shoot it and they don't want it, because otherwise you don't know how old it is, or how many times it's been fired. Reloaders generally pick up their fired brass unless they know it's about trashed from too many sizings and trimmings.
 
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40 years experience here, rifle and both types of handgun.

1. I recommend the Redding Big Boss single stage press. I wore out my old RCBS Jr and got a Boss recently.

2. Dies by RCBS or Redding or Hornady are fine.

3. For both pistol and revolver, use a four die set. Buy an extra seat/crip die. Use die #3 for seating only, and die #4 for crimping.

4. Use the RCBS bench priming tool.

5. Get the little RCBS flip tray for primers.

6. WASH your brass before any processing.

7. I use a 40 year old beam balance scale. Works more reliably than some of these new-fangled digital things.

8. If you are reloading without using MTM loading blocks, you are an accident waiting to happen. Them and a flashlight prevent many a problem.

9. Use a powder trickler for working up loads, and a powder dumper once you get going.

10. I recommend standardizing on one bullet weight and type for each cartridge. I stick to the original weights, i.e. 158 grain in .38 and .357, 120 grain in .45 ACP, etc. Feel free to vary this if you need a specialized bullet for hunting, etc.

11. Ball powder measures easier than flake powder. Flake powder measures easier than stick powder.


My hierarchy of loading data:

1st. Powder manufacturer's recent data.
2nd. Bullet manufacturers' reloading manuals.
3rd. Third party manuals such as Lyman.
4th. Internet talk (use only with extreme caution and only if you already thoroughly know what you are doing and why).

Extrapolation: DON'T do it. I did recently when I wanted a mid range load in .44 magnum and nothing was published. I extrapolated from .45 Colt data. But I knew what I was doing and why, and I was far, far below any SAAMI maximum pressures. You are not at that level so do not be tempted.

Most importantly:

Buy SEVERAL legit reloading manuals. Study them. Memorize them. Don't just reload mechanically, understand the why of each step. If you don't understand something, stop right there and do not proceed until you do understand.


I agree with most of the above. But not this:

1st. Powder manufacturer's recent data.
2nd. Bullet manufacturers' reloading manuals.
3rd. Third party manuals such as Lyman.
4th. Internet talk (use only with extreme caution and only if you already thoroughly know what you are doing and why


Switch 1 &2. Powder manufacture data almost always bases their data on bullet weight, with no consideration beyond jacketed or cast construction. They *probably* give a little more consideration to lot to lot variation in the powder - but at wouldn't take that to the bank, as its also not the limiting factor once you ignore specific bullet differences.

Bullet "stickiness" in the bore is critical to peak pressure and it is affected by several factors including hardness of the lead alloy core, the specific metallurgy of the gilding metal jacket, and the bearing surface of the bullet.

In contrast, bullet manufacturer data is developed using specific bullets and consequently does take those "stickiness" factors into consideration. The downside of bullet manufacturer data is that it is developed with a single lot of powder and even with canister grade powders used in handloading you will still encounter differences in charge weights needed to get a maximum load from one lot of powder to another on the order of 3% to 5%.

That's why absolutely everyone with a lick of sense advises *never * starting closer than 10 percent to a maximum load. Even with a load I know extremely well, where I am just switching lots of powder and then loading to the same velocity, I back off 5% and use a ladder to work up to the target velocity.

—-

For my precision rifle loads, I buy powder in 8 pound kegs and get two of them of the same lot if possible. It saves the trouble of having to work up a load ladder with 10 rounds on each rung to determine the charge needed to get the desired velocity.

That also requires a chronograph, and a chronograph is the best investment you can make after a good scale to promote precision and safety in reloading. With a chronograph you can verify where the velocity in your rifle is at relative to the published load data, and determine how linear it is.

Be aware your rifle or handgun might not deliver the same velocity as what you see in the published data, even if the data was developed in the same make and model firearm you have. A tight chamber and bore made with an old reamer and worn tooling will give different results than a looser chamber and bore made with a new reamer and new tooling. Cylinder gaps in revolvers also make a big difference and it's not uncommon to see velocities differences of up to 150 fps in the same make, model and barrel length revolver, once all the chamber, throat, cylinder gap, forcing cone and bore variables are considered.

More importantly with a chronograph you can also see the standard deviation in velocity. That'll tell you a lot about what is going on with the load and your loading processes. At the edges of the envelope at max or, in particular, at minimum powder charges it can often reveal the onset of potential pressure spikes and the increasing potential for a catastrophic pressure event. It's more often an issue at low load densities in large capacity cases, but I've also encountered some lower end .22 Hornet loads where a small reduction in powder charge sent the SD from 5-10 fps to well over 80 fps due to some much higher than expected velocities that are signaling pressure spikes.

——

One of the things I see on the internet, especially in military calibers are suggestions on how to replicate military cartridges. You see see someone quote a specific charge of say 48.9 grains of IMR 4895 for M72 Match ammo, and you might see someone else claim it's 50.0 grains based on what's printed in the US Army technical manual.

In fact, neither is correct. The first is just the charge in a particular lot of cartridges where 48.9 grains is what was needed to achieve the required 2640 fps, and 50 grains is just a nominal load in the TM, even though a charge that heavy was rarely required. On average M72 used about 48 grains of IMR 4895, but the specific charge was developed for each new lot of powder the manufacturer received. Those lots are normally 10,000 pound lots aan bulk powders used by manufacturers are not as close to a particular burn specification as the canister grade IMR-4895 we use. The manufacturer would develop a new charge weight for each lot of powder it received. They still do that.

Keep that in mind if you ever come across surplus powders like WC844 and WC846. You'll hear people claims they are the equivalent of H335 and BLC(2], but that's not entirely true given the much greater lot ot lot variation e surplus powders. In fact WC844 is just one end of the much broader WC846 specification and it was developed as a separate specification as it gave sufficient velocity at a low enough pressure in M193 ball ammo.

Put the mis use and misunderstanding of nominal charge weights together with bulk surplus powder and you're looking at a potential massive over pressure situation.

So stay away from internet recipes and stay away from surplus powders until you have a LOT of experience and fully understand what's required to work up a safe load.

—-

Buy current manuals when they come out, but also hold onto the old ones and be aware that things change over time.

1) Powder compositions change over time. The National Institute of Justice has funded and continues to fund research on powder composition that is then used for forensic analysis. The National Center for Forensic Science in turn maintains a data base you can query.

National Center for Forensic Science

Search your favorite powder and you will likely see 2, 3 or more chemical compositions for the same powder. Some of the changes reflect changes in manufacturing over time, the addition of a stabilizer, or things like adding a flash suppressant to a newer version.

2) pressure standard change over time. The old method of measuring pressure was with a copper slug in a hole in the side of the chamber that was crushed when the round was fired in the test chamber and was reported in CUP units. Modern pressure testing is done with piezo electric sensors and is measured and reported in PSI. CUP and PSI are not the same and there isn't even a linear relationship between them, so converting one to the other can only be done over very narrow ranges of pressure.

More importantly, the copper crush her method did a good job of measuring a maximum average pressure, but wasn't very good at measuring a short spike in peak pressure. Consequently, some older loading manuals have higher maximum charges for the same bullet and powder (even after correcting for lot to lot variation) as the new manuals reflect new pressure testing methods that detect excessive peak pressures that were missed in the copper crusher method.

So…take that old data with a health grain of salt. Unfortunately, new manuals tend to focus on newer powders that have been recently released or that have been popular in the last decade or so. That can make it hard to find load data for very flexible and long standing powders like Unique in cartridges like the .357 Magnum. Those faster powders produce a lot less recoil (on the order of 40% less) without much velocity loss in a short barrel (maybe 50 fps) and they greatly reduce forcing cone erosion compared to ball powders like Win 296. But you don't see that data in recent manuals.

So if you want to use those powders for specific purposes, you'll need to find previous editions of loading manuals - and then take care working up to a maximum load. For example with a 125 gr JHP I'll stop at somewhere between 8.5 and 9.0 grains and back up a grain prior to where the ejection starts getting sticky, even though there are published loads out there that are almost a full grain higher. *Always* use common sense and always be conservative.
 
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