So what is your favorite brand of HBWC's? Does anyone here cast there own?

I've never loaded HBWC. I've used the H&G #50 WC flat base design for many years, usually in revolvers, but also in one Model 52. Does the HB shoot that much more accurately than a FB wadcutter?
A revolver seems to be forgiving but I can tell quiet a bit of difference with my three 38 special autos.
 
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Some bullets dropped from my My M-P HG50 Brass Mold.

They are supposed to be the same as the Hensley & Gibbs HG50 HB-WC design.

I have yet to load any, but they we easy enough to cast.
 
...Does the HB shoot that much more accurately than a FB wadcutter?
I think the biggest advantage is they are more forgiving of low powder charges since the "skirt" provides a gas seal.

View attachment 587823

Some bullets dropped from my My M-P HG50 Brass Mold.

They are supposed to be the same as the Hensley & Gibbs HG50 HB-WC design.

I have yet to load any, but they we easy enough to cast.
Nice!
 
Sizing depends on each individual gun . A revolver as long as throats are larger than bore size bullets to match throat . If throats are smaller they'll need to be reamed / honed larger . Semi-auto pistol or rifle fattest size that'll chamber , which most of the time depends on barrel throating / leade , bullet nose config / diameter . Make your ammo fit your gun .
 
What diameter do they drop and what do you size them to?

I don't know about H&G #50 copies (they may be better), but from an original H&G #50 mould, bullets of approximately 13-14 BHN in wheelweight alloy drop at around .359" or a little larger (this is from memory). I've found sizing to .358" or just slightly under (they come out of my SAECO bullet sizing die at .3575") has been best for most revolvers and the one Model 52 I've had.
 
Back in the day I shot a lot of Speer HBWCs - they were both economical and accurate. Hornady came out with theirs and I tried them - pretty good. These were early designs with a more or less conventional profile, and they (especially Hornady's) worked quite well reversed over a charge of SR4756 I won't post here. Hornady later radically changed their design to a knurled bearing surface and those never worked as well for me as either the Speer or early Hornady designs.

I still remember my Dad being able to buy them at Gander Mountain's store in Wilmot, WI for $7.47/500 . . . yes, it was a long time ago and back then I wasn't old enough to buy ammo components myself.
 
Store bought I think only kind I’ve ever bought are Hornberry 148 HBWC.
I’ve poured a few Lyman/ Ideal 38 HBWC but that is slow going. Usually shoot Lyman Ideal Button Nose out of gang mold for 14 & 27. Same for 45Colt but it’s just a 2 holer. I just recently bought new 44 HBWC mold 4 cavity. Pours beautiful bullets and nice design so you don’t have to pull cavity pins.
 
What diameter do they drop and what do you size them to?

They dropped about 126.5 gr with a diameter of .363-.364 after the powder coat. I forget to mic them before the powder coat, but MP advertises they drop at .359.

I used a relatively soft alloy of 10.4 bhn, as I plan to push them slow and want to give the skirt the chance do what it was designed to do.

Any hints and tips you experienced hollow base loaders have, I am all ears.

I have yet to size them.
 
... I just recently bought new 44 HBWC mold 4 cavity. Pours beautiful bullets and nice design so you don’t have to pull cavity pins.




What mold did you get? I have several MP molds and love the design, fit, and function of his HP and HB molds.
 
I was using Speer 148gr HBWC bullets for a long time. For years now they never seem to be in stock anywhere I usually buy. I changed over to the 148gr DEWC bullets.from Missouri Bullets. With that DEWC bullet I charge 3.4gr W231.
 
I cast a lot of wadcutters over the last 50 years but every one has been the solid base design . Hollow base wadcutter moulds are available but for the longest time Lyman's moulds for HB anything were all single cavity .
Casting with a single cavity hollow base mould has to be one of the slowest ways known to man to make bullets . A 2, 3, 4 or 5 cavity solid base mould just turns out so many more bullets ... it's no contest .

After 50 years of collecting moulds ... I own only one hollow base .
I have found out that for the time and effort invested ... it just ain't worth the trouble .
Gary
 
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Any hints and tips you experienced hollow base loaders have, I am all ears.
I'm not sure what your knowledge level is so forgive me if I repeat things you already know:
You need a large enough flare to get them started straight while seating. Seat flush with the case mouth, crimp just enough to eliminate the flare. Seat and crimp in separate steps. The HB's excel at lower velocities, just be careful not to stick one in the bore. Pretty simple and that's how I've done it for 20 years. Lately, I have modified my process a little. I am flaring with aftermarket plugs that open the case differently than standard flaring dies. I have also switched to a taper crimp instead of the roll crimp found with most die sets. The loaded rounds look cleaner than my old ones but I haven't shot them yet. Maybe I have added extra steps and expense for little or no return but I like the process and my labor is free.
 
What mold did you get? I have several MP molds and love the design, fit, and function of his HP and HB molds.

MP mold, 44HBWC 214 gr also comes with studs to replace HB
to sold WC. I’ve got NIB 24-3. Can’t bring myself to touch it off.
Will test out in 29s I guess.
Another case of “sell safe queens first” if you only have two.
 
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