Mauserholics anonymous, new member with a 6.5 x 55 Swede

[DWalt]

One of my greatest blunders was sporterizing a nearly pristine M94 Carbine. But times were different.

 

[rockquarry]

I'm not a collector and don't really know what models I bought, but when these were cheap and plentiful in the '80s I bought two Swedish Mausers with 24" barrels and turned down bolts. Both were Husqvarna 1943 (I think) and appeared to have seen little use. One of these was an excellent cast bullet rifle and showed good 100 yard accuracy despite a very wide and coarse front sight blade.

6.5 anything was never very popular in this country thirty or more years ago and Norma was about the only 6.5 ammo you could find. Empty brass was virtually not to be had.

 

[oysterer]

Great discussion everyone. I decided to do this right, get a hornady modified case, measure this thing out, sit the bullets right, load some H4350 under some 140gr ELDs to 2300 and 2400 fps and take it from there. Too good a f-arm to crude around with.

 

[CH4]

Love the Mauser and 6.5 Swede.
Closest thing I currently have to that combo is a M70 FWT chambered for the Swede.

 

[Jackcpat]

6.5 Swede

You can go wrong with the 6.5 Swede. I like um too.

 

[DWalt]

In my 6.5 x55 bench rest days, my best performing load used a 130 grain Sierra RN with IMR 4320. I do not remember the powder charge, that was too long ago. Back then, the only factory loaded ammunition or cases available was Norma and Herter's. That was one reason I mainly formed my own brass from .30-'06. The Herter's brass was poor, you might get one or two firings before a neck split. I generally neck sized only.

 

[LVSteve]

One of these was an excellent cast bullet rifle and showed good 100 yard accuracy despite a very wide and coarse front sight blade.

I have seen that comment/criticism of the later Swede front sights elsewhere. You have to consider the light and terrain of Northern Europe and Scandinavia to understand why they used that style of sight. That area sees a lot of low angle sunlight, which is a class A curse on a standard Mauser barleycorn sight. Reflections off the side of such a sight result in you losing where the tip is left to right. Also, it is all too easy to "lose" a thin front sight like you have on a 1903 in dim light with a heavy forest background.

So how does the thick front sight help and how can you be accurate with it? For starters, you can see the thing. As for accuracy, you simply reverse the "thin sight to precise spot" process by putting the spot you want to hit in the middle of the thick front sight. This way you focus on the target, and you will automatically slide your target area into the middle of the front sight, a bit like how a ghost ring works. French Berthiers are set up the same way.

 

[rockquarry]

I have seen that comment/criticism of the later Swede front sights elsewhere. You have to consider the light and terrain of Northern Europe and Scandinavia to understand why they used that style of sight. That area sees a lot of low angle sunlight, which is a class A curse on a standard Mauser barleycorn sight. Reflections off the side of such a sight result in you losing where the tip is left to right. Also, it is all too easy to "lose" a thin front sight like you have on a 1903 in dim light with a heavy forest background.

So how does the thick front sight help and how can you be accurate with it? For starters, you can see the thing. As for accuracy, you simply reverse the "thin sight to precise spot" process by putting the spot you want to hit in the middle of the thick front sight. This way you focus on the target, and you will automatically slide your target area into the middle of the front sight, a bit like how a ghost ring works. French Berthiers are set up the same way.

I shot one of my rifles extensively with cast bullets and was able to shoot decent 100 yard groups by using the sights as I do all open sights, handgun or rifle: simply put the bullseye, aiming point, or whatever you may call it, right on top of the sight blade. That way, the width of the coarse blade really doesn't matter much and it's fine for all but serious target shooting.

My 100 yard five-shot group sizes averaged just under four inches, but this was thirty or more years ago and I've learned a bit more about cast bullets since. I'm confident now that I could cut at least an inch off those early groups sizes. I'll not blame the rifle, just my bullets.

 

[GypsmJim]

I'll not blame the rifle, just my bullets.

MY boolits are just perfect...LOL. The problem is the eyesight.

Ya say there's a sight blade up there?

 

[Narragansett]

Nice rifles you are getting Mark. I had a 6.5X 55 Swedish Mauser decades ago. Never got into military rifle collecting. That can be another rabbit hole. Just have 1 M1917 full military Enfield

 

[rockquarry]

MY boolits are just perfect...LOL. The problem is the eyesight.

Ya say there's a sight blade up there?

Sometimes, that's the case, but I can't blame bad eyes for my large groups. My eyes were good then, thirty or more years ago. Of course my vision eventually deteriorated. I had both eyes rebuilt (cataract removal and lens implants) about six years ago and I can again see iron sights well on rifles and handguns without glasses.

 

[rockquarry]

Nice rifles you are getting Mark. I had a 6.5X 55 Swedish Mauser decades ago. Never got into military rifle collecting. That can be another rabbit hole. Just have 1 M1917 full military Enfield

I had a lot of enjoyment working with a number of military rifles over the years and learned much, but eventually moved on to other gun interests. I sold all the military rifles except an '03-A3 years ago and don't miss any of them. Sort of like having a variety of rifles in wildcat chamberings. No regrets there either but it was fun working with them.

 

[shil]

1909 Carl Gustaf owner here. Shoots great! I like the cartridge enough to toy with the idea of putting together a 6.5x55mm Remington 700 Varmint Special!

 

[AJ]

Lets see some groups guys. This group in about 1/4 inch center-to-center. It is fired from a bench rest with a rear bag. I can only use iron sights as there is not provision for a scope to be mounted. The bullet is a 140 grain A-Max. The powder charge is 40.6 grains of RL-17. Standard rifle primers and cases are whatever we find at the range or have fired from factory loads, http://smith-wessonforum.com/141640466-post9.html

 

[senecaap]

Love the Swedes, probably my favorite Mauser. Slick action, and a versatile cartridge.

 

[Ruger 13]

Very nice……..you'll be very happy,I ,ove all of mine!

 

[CptCurl]

I have a few Mauser rifles; but I'm just a dabbler of these, not a true collector. The closest I have to a Swede is my Mod. 1895 Chilean in 7x57. This is the rifle that vexed the Brits in the Boer War and harried the U.S. forces in the Spanish-American war. Sorry, I don't have photos of this rifle.

Let's not forget the fertile field of the commercial Mausers. This is where collecting gets really serious. Currently my only commercial Mauser is a "Type M" in .30-06. Stoeger catalogued them as the "No. 615":

Mine sports double set triggers and a marvelous Lyman aperture sight mounted on its cocking piece.

For woods hunting, a man needs nothing more.

Curly