Trimming N frame Elk Stocks

Ray

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Hi, don´t know if this belongs here, but I have a beatiful N frame Elk pair of stocks and as I no longer have the N frame revolver it was made for I want to fit it on my model 17 no dash.
The holes at the back match but I must trim on all three sides, butt, front and back front straps for a perfect fit.
No machines involved must be made manually.
What approach would you suggest ?
Thanks regards, Ray
 
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I would say it would be worth it to send to a professional like Ken here on the forum (if he would consider doing it) - look for his postings BigMtnMan in the classifieds. Or maybe Pat Grasshorn ? Or another maker maybe someone will suggest?
If not I would suggest some jewelers files and varying degrees of sandpaper. I've been told it's just like working on wood grips except to seal the shaped edges with super glue rubbed in with baking powder, especially the porus surfaces. Finish with renaissance wax.
 
Maybe, maybe not. Depends on the OP's level of 'handiness' and the tools he has access to.

On the other hand, I just ordered some stuff from England yesterday... international shipping is pretty easy these days.
 
Well thanks for the kind answers but as it was said I´m not in the US, so I will have to take matters into my hand with the resources I have ,files and sand paper.BTW these are Ken´s and the shipping cost via fedex was outrageous! Not Ken´s fault tough but my friend´s in TX to whom Ken shipped to.
I draw lines with a fine black pencil on the back of both grips marking the parts that will need to be sanded off.
I´ll post a pic soon.
Thanks, regards, Ray
 

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Ray,

I have trimmed antler stocks to fit various revolvers. I use a four-in-one rasp (flat and part round rasp with coarse and fine teeth) to hog off most of the material. Then switch to sandpaper backed with wood, shaped to approximate the contour.

Use progressively finer grits.

I have not used epoxy or any other finish except wax. Don't see why it would not work, just have not used it on antler.

I will try to post images.

Do you still have that gorgeous Model 1917?

Kevin
 
Kevin unfortunately I had to sell it cause I needed the money. But the elk grips remained and now I want to install it in my pristine 1958 lettered model 17 no dash !
Pardon me but what is a Rasp ?
Do you have a pic of it so I can find a similar around here?
Thanks regards, Ray
 
Kevin unfortunately I had to sell it cause I needed the money. But the elk grips remained and now I want to install it in my pristine 1958 lettered model 17 no dash !
Pardon me but what is a Rasp ?
Do you have a pic of it so I can find a similar around here?
Thanks regards, Ray
Basically it's just a more aggressive file.

What Are Woodworking Rasps and Files?
 
…Kevin unfortunately I had to sell it cause I needed the money…

****! That had to hurt. Been there myself but it doesn't make it not hurt.

…But the elk grips remained and now I want to install it in my pristine 1958 lettered model 17 no dash !
Pardon me but what is a Rasp ?…

As mentioned a coarse file.

…Do you have a pic of it so I can find a similar around here?…

Here is an image.

…Thanks regards, Ray…

You are most welcome.

Kevin
 

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I have refit stag grips on occasion, I used wet or dry emory paper backed up with an art gum eraser, these make great sanding blocks for small projects. Go slow and cut and try until you get a good fit. I have used the sanding dust mixed with epoxy to fill pithy areas with good results. After sanding down to 400 grit I polish with Simichrome or Flitz metal polish and apply paste wax polish with a micro fiber cloth for a good looking result.
 
I did most of the fitting with a file and coarse sandpaper.I didn´t have fine sandpaper at hand only got them yesterday. I´ll put the masking tape and fine polishing it today or tomorrow.
Regards, Ray
 
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A few hints.....

Do not use an overly aggressive rasp (too course) - you risk doing damage to the Elk horn.

When you get the size roughed in and switch to sandpaper, do not heat them up too much if you use a motorized belt sander or similar. Proceed slowly taking light, easy passes & clean the sand paper from fowling often (clogged sandpaper causes heat build-up). Use progressively finer grits and do the final sanding by hand. Sand in direction of the "grain: and only sand in that direction. If you make witness marks on the grips for a stop line, do not use markers or ink as they can bleed into the horn and stain it, instead use a pencil or tape. Most importantly, check your work often and use your sense of touch to verify proper fit.

This is a relatively simply task and the most important thing is to take your time, don't rush and have patience.
 
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