If you build your own AR’s; some input please

[ColbyBruce]

I want an AR for hunting that is reasonably accurate and powerful out to 400 yards. I narrowed the choices down to either an Anderson AM15 6.5 Grendel at $565.00 or a Rock River Arms 6.8 spc for $802.00. I dislike mil-spec furniture and would replace it with MagPul, add a sling, spare magazine and a Larue trigger; so another $250.00 into either one. For $800.00 to $-1,000.00 I should be able to assemble an entire AR with above average parts. I just don’t know which parts to buy. I am leaning toward a Wilson Combat 6.8 spc barrel and BCG. I don’t believe I need a $500.00 receiver set. I don’t like or need a rail, or a $150.00 CH, hand guards suit me fine. Lots of choices for receiver tubes and buffers/springs.

If anyone can enlighten me on parts choices I would certainly appreciate it.

 

[Sistema1927]

Why buy an AR with furniture if you are going to replace it?

Buy a lower, stripped or already built, the upper you want, either with or without barrel installed, and then "accessorize" it as desired. No need to have a box of parts that you don't want.

The AR is the Lego of firearms, build it like you want.

 

[Mike-AK]

Check out Aero Precision. The Geissele trigger is a better option than the LaRue, IMO.

M4E1 Threaded Receiver Set - Anodized Black | Aero Precision

 

[STORMINORMAN]

An AR10 .308 build would probably fill the bill for half the price and allow you a plethora of both factory ammo and reloading options...?

Just another option: you could probably get a fine scope for the difference as well?

Cheers!

 

[ColbyBruce]

AR-10 is larger and heavier than I care to use in the field.

 

[Wyo]

Aero Precision makes good parts as does BCM. They're more pricey, though. Bison Armory does really good barrels in various configurations. One other thing I might mention - I've not used the 6.5 Grendel but I have used the 6.8 SPC a lot on mule deer, whitetails, pigs, coyotes, etc. It's a great little cartridge but taking it out to 400 yards is really stretching it in a hunting application. I would not use it past 300 on medium sized game and, even then, would be a bit uncomfortable. IMHO.

 

[WCCPHD]

AR-10 is larger and heavier than I care to use in the field.

Get a POF Rogue. Its an AR10 built on an AR15 frame and weighs 5.9 pounds. I love mine. I have a 16 inch upper and a 12.5 inch SBR.

 

[LVSteve]

If you want power out to 400 yards in 6.5 Grendel, I think you need more barrel than 16". What about a PSA lightweight? Just a moment...

 

[STORMINORMAN]

If you want power out to 400 yards in 6.5 Grendel, I think you need more barrel than 16". What about a PSA lightweight? Just a moment...

Their complete 20" upper (with BCG, etc.) is only $399!

When you build your own you don't need to replace the furniture, either...

Cheers!

 

[tajada]

I'm glad to hear there are other grendel users. When I was first breaking it in and tuning the gas block. It seemed like it could do MOA. I was leaning over the hood on a windy day so that's why it's not a definite yes to MOA. I also want to note that my suppressor that I normally run is 18 OZ. I know its heavy but it was my first Form 1 suppressor and I was limited on tooling. But heavy can on 18" barrel is so much easier that a 24" barrel!

 

[TheTinMan]

An AR10 .308 build would probably fill the bill for half the price and allow you a plethora of both factory ammo and reloading options...?

Just another option: you could probably get a fine scope for the difference as well?

Cheers!

The OP says “NO” to a 308 AR. However, it is worth pointing out that 308 ARs are not the plug and play Legos you experience with AR-15s. Just to start with “mid-length gas tube” means different dimensions for different barrel manufacturers. There simply isn’t one rigid standard everyone has to follow. Loosely there are the Armalite pattern and the DPMS pattern, but it gets more complicated with some parts. Buffer tubes, buffers, and springs can be all over the place and that affects function.

There is a 308 AR forum where you can learn loads if you want to go down that road.

 

[RCL-09]

I hunt with a Stag Arms 6.8 upper on my Rock River lower. I find 6.8 ammo relatively easy and seldom see 6.5 Grendel. If you go 6.8 make sure you get a SPEC II chambered 1/11" barrel for optimal performance from the cartridge.

 

[damienph]

Mine is an Aero Precision lower with an ALG trigger and a PSA 7.62x39 Upper and Boyds laminate furniture.

It is quite accurate and a good whitetail gun for east central Kansas.

 

[Racer X]

Mine is an Aero Precision lower with an ALG trigger and a PSA 7.62x39 Upper and Boyds laminate furniture.

It is quite accurate and a good whitetail gun for east central Kansas.

do you use 154 gr soft points?

 

[damienph]

do you use 154 gr soft points?

I have only used 123gr soft points. Usually Winchester Super X Power Point

 

[scooter123]

I have 3 home built AR's. Anderson lowers on all, picked up 4 at gun show for 28 dollars each. Yeah, it's been a while. All are equipped with Timney 3 lbs. drop in triggers.

Rifle # 1 is a 20 inch Precision Rifle with a Gibbz side charging upper mated to a Shilen heavy profile barrel with a Nikon scope. Shoots under 3/10 MOA from a good solid rest. Forearm is also a Gibbz Arms. Stock is a DPMS fixed A2 stock. Total cost with all the bells and whistles was north of 2 grand back around 2015.

Rifle # 3 is a 300 Blackout with a 16 inch Wilson Combat barrel. Lower is an Anderson with a Timney trigger. Forearm is a Gibbz handguard because I really like their mounting method. Upper is Anderson and I had to use a strip of 0.0015 shim stock to tighten up the upper to barrel fit. Tip here is to use the barrel you have chosen to find an upper that fits the barrel extension properly, cheap uppers have a lot of variation in this area. What you want to feel is a bit of drag and the deepest engagement with the joint bone dry. Note barrels that rattle wont be accurate, so this fit is critical. Stock is a Magpul ACS and I must say I really like this stock. Sights are mainly iron (Magpul) but I do have a 4X Weaver on a QD mount in the event I want to shoot with a scope. Cost in 2016 was about 1400 dollars.

Rifle #3 is 223 Wylde in a 16 inch Odin Works Medium profile barrel with a mid length gas system. Lower is Anderson with the 3 lbs. Timney trigger. Handguard is Gibbz and the stock is a Magpul ACS adjustable. Total cost for this rifle was roughly 1400 dollars.

Note, parts were acquired over about a 9 month period so while the totals were on the high side it was easy to squeeze the budget a bit so it wasn't painful.

In addition I quit smoking in January 2012 and that money went into my Fun Fund and 300 bucks a month extra does make things like this affordable. Hot tip here is that if you have a vice that causes you real harm such as smoking or vaping quitting is a wise thing to do. It will free up a lot of cash money that you are wasting on destroying your lungs. BTW, recent reports show that Pot is just as harmful as Tobacco so I must say I told you so to all those deniers who claimed Vaping or Pot is healthy.

 

[BillBro]

I agree completely about buying an AR that youre houng to take a bunch of stuff off and replace with other stuff, that you have to buy. Why do that? Just source the components and assemble iy yourself. Less waste.

Id definitely go with the 6.8spc. Great hunting bullet selection. Not just for that reason though but that applies directly to your intended use.

Do not buy a WC barrel, their gasports are always too small and youll get short stroking and ejection issues, plus their rifling is no bueno. Hands down, the best 6.8 barrels on the market are ARP, noe handled by Blackstone armory, the ARP Superbolt is also the top bolt choice. If you cant get a Superbolt get the LWRC bolt. In fact its probably a little better than the SB. I have both and really like the LWRC. Best barrel and bolts made, period. Its all about the chamber and the rifling and ARP is the top.
An upper is an upper and a lower is a lower. Aero Precision is fine though with a 6.8 or other non-5.56 chambering a little more strength and rigidity would not be a bad thing.
A midwest Industries Combat rail is just about one of my favorites, cheap, light, strong and priced great. Dint skimp on your trigger. If you are watching your budget Larue is absolutely fine, if not go with a Geissele (sp). I have a Larue single stage, but I have 7 Geissele triggers. Their SSS single stage has become a favorite of mine and for a hunting gun Id think thats what you would want.
Magpul makes my favorite grip, the K2+. Or you can go with a B5 p22 or 23.
Forward Controls Design makes some of the best vompinents Ive seen made in a long time. Small parts, main parts and everything in between, just good stuff.
If you build from scratch youll need all the little parts
Why not quality ones?

My best advice, dont get fancy. If its your first build stick with basics. No lightweight bcg's, standard buffers and springs to start. Speaking of springs, get Sprinco.
Really, build a solid basic gun and you should have no isdues.
Oh, have all the tools youll need, and supplies beforehand. Building an AR is not difficult. Put quality in, get quality out.
And visit the 6.8Forum.

 

[WR Moore]

The DIY approach has one major fault: Quality Control. You have to figure out which parts are good and assume that they meet all specifications and tolerances. Proper assembly means the use of specialized tools and gauges that'll be a one time expense that adds to the cost. Yeah, you can put it together without them, but it might not be right. Any and all problems are your problems.

OTOH, purchase from a known quality manufacturer gets you their QA/QC, a product fully assembled by skilled personnel with all the proper tools and a warranty. The modular construction does give you the option of buying a lower and upper assembly separately. I would be very picky about the source for either. My personal list of acceptable builders is rather short.

I saw a lot of Rock River products in the hands of governmental agencies while attending various classes. They all did very well and I wouldn't have bothered changing the triggers of any I tried.

 

[TheTinMan]

The DIY approach has one major fault: Quality Control. You have to figure out which parts are good and assume that they meet all specifications and tolerances. Proper assembly means the use of specialized tools and gauges that'll be a one time expense that adds to the cost. Yeah, you can put it together without them, but it might not be right. Any and all problems are your problems.

OTOH, purchase from a known quality manufacturer gets you their QA/QC, a product fully assembled by skilled personnel with all the proper tools and a warranty. The modular construction does give you the option of buying a lower and upper assembly separately. I would be very picky about the source for either. My personal list of acceptable builders is rather short.

I saw a lot of Rock River products in the hands of governmental agencies while attending various classes. They all did very well and I wouldn't have bothered changing the triggers of any I tried.

Good points about tools, etc. I have a couple of books (Zediker book are excellent), torque wrench, action rods, headspace gauges, and other tools/gauges. Do you absolutely have to have all of that? Probably not, we are talking about a firearm that you may need to depend on.

Windham Weaponry produces good quality ARs, both AR-15s and 308 ARs. I have one of each. It's the old Bushmaster factory and workmanship. Pricing isn't crazy IMHO.

 

[Paul in Nevada]

6.5 Grendel vs 6.8 SPC is going to depend a lot on how often you will be shooting at 300+ yards and how long of a barrel you want to tote around. A lot of the 6.5 published data you will see is taken from a 24" barrel while 6.8 is often tested with 16". If both barrels are 16-18", the 6.8 is going to have an energy advantage on the Grendel inside of 200 yards. After that, the Grendel walks away from the 6.8 no matter how long the barrels are thanks to it's higher BC bullets. At 400 yards the Grendel carries quite a bit more velocity and energy. The bullets usually have a higher SD as well meaning it will penetrate better at all ranges.
As for building vs buying, you can often get a good quality complete upper for cheaper than you could build one. That's not as much fun as building in my opinion but it's worth considering. Any money you save could go to your optic. Lowers are pretty much all the same. There's no reason (in my opinion) to spend a lot of money on the lower itself. Anderson is fine you you don't mind the unicorn rollmark. Anderson is sometimes called the "Poverty Pony" because of how cheap their stripped lowers are. I have several and they are fine. For a budget upper though I would look at Aero Precision. They have a 20" complete stainless Grendel upper for $500. That's a pretty good deal if you add up all the parts. 20" for a Grendel might be as short as you want to go. They don't make an SPC. Another poorly kept secret of the AR world is Bear Creek. Their barrels are better than you would expect at the price.